Leaking Valve Stem Seal

[PradoTDI]

Put the turbo back on, went for a short test drive and there was an exhaust leak between the turbo and manifold adapter, causing enough loss of exhaust pressure that the turbo would only build about 10psi before limp mode kicked in. I tore it all back apart, put a gasket in between the turbo and adapter and cleaned/annealed the copper gasket between the adapter and manifold. Put it back together and it now leaks much worse, won't build boost at all now. Not feeling like putting any more effort into this turbo setup, at this point I need to decide if I'm sticking with the ALH or swapping to a BHW, and therefore what to do with the GTD2060 I've got waiting on a shelf.

 

[Gruni14]

If it's just gaskets....or turbo pipe leaks (or vacuum, etc), hopefully those should be solvable. Keep with it. You put so much work into it at this point.

As for swaps, after our little back n fourth, I did a bunch of digging into diesel swaps. Watched some good videos. After listening to their various points in the video below, doing an R2.8 swap has a lot of positives over a TDI. Mainly a LOT less work and time (but more initial cash outlay). I'm getting to the age where I'm more open to spending more and doing less (in the long run). One negative is the R2.8 is also a bit heavier engine. Just throwing out there. But may be about as much as someone installing a heavy winch, bull bar and some lights on the front off their rig. Somewhere I've read of another crate diesel that's quite a bit cheaper than the Cummins, but I don't remember now what it is. From Asia somewhere (Korea?). Cheaper but not much support. Keep us up to speed if you get your TDI running great again.

And this:

 

[dieseldonato]

If it's just gaskets....or turbo pipe leaks (or vacuum, etc), hopefully those should be solvable. Keep with it. You put so much work into it at this point.

As for swaps, after our little back n fourth, I did a bunch of digging into diesel swaps. Watched some good videos. After listening to their various points in the video below, doing an R2.8 swap has a lot of positives over a TDI. Mainly a LOT less work and time (but more initial cash outlay). I'm getting to the age where I'm more open to spending more and doing less (in the long run). One negative is the R2.8 is also a bit heavier engine. Just throwing out there. But may be about as much as someone installing a heavy winch, bull bar and some lights on the front off their rig. Somewhere I've read of another crate diesel that's quite a bit cheaper than the Cummins, but I don't remember now what it is. From Asia somewhere (Korea?). Cheaper but not much support. Keep us up to speed if you get your TDI running great again.

And this:

Those weren't the best videos to showcase either engine or why to go with one vs the other.

 

[Gruni14]

Those weren't the best videos to showcase either engine or why to go with one vs the other.

Probably not... I watched so many I couldn't find some of the better ones as I had dumped my history files. One benefit is the TDI is lightweight ...vs the Cummins.

 

[PradoTDI]

Unfortunately this is a highly custom turbo setup, so there aren't gaskets readily available that will fit. I used a BHW and clocked the hot side for a top mount setup, it is mounted on an upside down 1Y manifold with a custom adapter plate. I made my own copper gaskets originally, but it looks like they aren't sealing well after being disassembled a couple of times. I recently purchased a GTD2060vz to replace the GT1749va, but it will require some major rearranging of the engine, exhaust, and charge piping to make it work. Until then there isn't any point to putting more effort into the turbo and manifold that are ultimately going to be replaced.

Trying to decide between two options:

- Rebuild the head and possibly hone/re-ring the engine. Get a new, 0º tilt adapter plate and mount the engine upright, this would allow enough clearance for the turbo as-is, but would require new motor mounts and cooling lines, among other modifications.

- Replace the ALH with a BHW using a 0º or 10º adapter plate to use the GTD2060vz. This would require new motor mounts, cooling and charge pipes, wiring, tune, etc. Basically another complete swap. This would definitely require the most work and cost to implement. On the other hand, it would allow me to start with essentially a clean slate and fix/avoid the mistakes I made the first time around.

 

[dieseldonato]

Shame your head needs redone. What leads you to think your current engine
Needs rings?

 

[PradoTDI]

Shame your head needs redone. What leads you to think your current engine
Needs rings?

Not totally sure it needs rings, but it is either the valve stem seals or rings causing oil consumption and smoking. Everyone I’ve spoken to says it would be unusual for valve stem seals to leak past into the exhaust.

 

[csstevej]

Is this on start up only or while running ?

 

[PradoTDI]

Is this on start up only or while running ?

Both. Significant smoke on startup, takes a while to go away. There’s always a little smoke at idle, when accelerating away after idling for a minute or more there’s quite a bit of smoke again. Coasting down hills causes significant smoke and a light stumble when I get back on the throttle. All of these symptoms are relatively recent (within about a year).

 

[Gruni14]

You're sure it's oil and not diesel smoke, right? You sound like you definitely know what you're doing...just bringing it up.

When my car's MAF went bad it produced a nice FOG back there! It wasn't even 'bad' it just read on the lower end of the 'good' range...voltage-wise.

 

[Gruni14]

Out of curiosity, how difficult is it to get the engine out ...of your transplant? Seems like there'd be more room to wrench, than in a Jetta.

 

[PradoTDI]

Out of curiosity, how difficult is it to get the engine out ...of your transplant? Seems like there'd be more room to wrench, than in a Jetta.

Last time I pulled the engine it took exactly 4 hours start to finish, so not too bad at all.

You're sure it's oil and not diesel smoke, right? You sound like you definitely know what you're doing...just bringing it up.

When my car's MAF went bad it produced a nice FOG back there! It wasn't even 'bad' it just read on the lower end of the 'good' range...voltage-wise.

Primarily oil smoke on startup, but there’s probably a little unburnt diesel in there too. @burpod deleted the MAF on my tune, so there’s one less thing to worry about.

 

[dieseldonato]

Not totally sure it needs rings, but it is either the valve stem seals or rings causing oil consumption and smoking. Everyone I’ve spoken to says it would be unusual for valve stem seals to leak past into the exhaust.

Valve stem seals, couppled with loose and/or belled guides could start leaking oil into the the intake and or exhaust side. It should really only be when you're not under boost if that's the case. Head would need to come off to check any of that out with any degree of accuracy.
Oil control rings being an issue are difficult to diagnose. Usually you try to rule everything else out first.
Im sure its been asked, but you checked out your turbo in detail to make sure its not where the oil is going?

 

[PradoTDI]

Yep, head will come off regardless to be rebuilt if I end up keeping this engine (probably will even if I don't, I'll probably hold on to the engine for some other project).

I did pull the turbo apart and found no evidence of an internal oil leak, there was significant oil in the exhaust port and manifold from cylinder 4.

 

[AndyBees]

I've been keeping up with this Thread, but I forgot, did you do a compression test?

 

[Gruni14]

I did pull the turbo apart and found no evidence of an internal oil leak, there was significant oil in the exhaust port and manifold from cylinder 4.

Was there much blow-by, when you had it running?

I guess see what that cylinder-4 looks like once you get the head off, and if there's something obvious with the valve seals ...probably should get it the head pressure-tested. If something with the head shows up, then you'll know something.

I'm wondering if it would be easier from the get-go to pull the whole motor up front, and and take the head off on an engine stand. And also inspect the rings, at least #4. Worst case hone it out and put in new rings. Then you know it'll be good and wouldn't be doing all that work hunched over in the engine compartment.

 

[PradoTDI]

I've been keeping up with this Thread, but I forgot, did you do a compression test?

Haven't done a compression test yet, dealing with a 300 mile separation between the vehicle and some of my tools. Will get the tester back this weekend, hopefully do a compression test sometime next week.

 

[PradoTDI]

Was there much blow-by, when you had it running?

I guess see what that cylinder-4 looks like once you get the head off, and if there's something obvious with the valve seals ...probably should get it the head pressure-tested. If something with the head shows up, then you'll know something.

I'm wondering if it would be easier from the get-go to pull the whole motor up front, and and take the head off on an engine stand. And also inspect the rings, at least #4. Worst case hone it out and put in new rings. Then you know it'll be good and wouldn't be doing all that work hunched over in the engine compartment.

No significant blow-by, the oil cap dances around but doesn't come close to blowing off. The wear on the manifold mating surface of the head will necessitate a rebuild regardless, and I know the valve seals and cam are both worn, probably lifters too.

Going to test fit my new turbo on a friend's project (same type of truck, ALH swap) to see if pushing the engine forward about an inch and changing the adapter plate from a 15º tilt to a 10º tilt will allow enough room to fit the turbo and a downpipe. If so then I'll wait on messing further with this until spring when I've collected the parts necessary to redo the swap. In the meantime I can weigh the pros and cons of switching to a BHW, the cost would be a bit higher but it wouldn't add much work vs. refreshing the ALH.

 

[csstevej]

I’ve had a similar issue with my 01 golf at 393,xxx miles . I was blowing smoke on start up but also had a head gasket leak with a broken gp for the last 12 years.
When I pulled the head, #4 cylinder was wet on top. Replaced the head with a used serviceable one and all smoke was gone on start up.

Just to add to this all 4 cylinders still had the original crosshatch marks from the factory build.

 

[wonneber]

Was there much blow-by, when you had it running?

I guess see what that cylinder-4 looks like once you get the head off, and if there's something obvious with the valve seals ...probably should get it the head pressure-tested. If something with the head shows up, then you'll know something.

I'm wondering if it would be easier from the get-go to pull the whole motor up front, and and take the head off on an engine stand. And also inspect the rings, at least #4. Worst case hone it out and put in new rings. Then you know it'll be good and wouldn't be doing all that work hunched over in the engine compartment.

I would think if your pulling the motor and taking the head off I would have Franko6 (if I have that correctly ) have it done correctly.
Naturally your budget may be different then mine.

 

[csstevej]

It’s Franko6. Not the number but the letter o.