I tried cutting a little off the lines because they were enlarged. Still had air. The lines that are underneath the injectors look like braided cloth. There pretty nasty and frayed. Can it be getting air in ahead of the injection pump?
Leaking injection pump
- Thread starter Tippsy20
- Start date
Baron VonZeppelin
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2012
- Location
- CetaneCity, NorthCarolina
- TDI
- 98 Jetta TDI, 81 VW Truck TiDi, 85 Jetta TiDi
I have to question the quality of the socks you have in mind ? lol
A practical level of common sense is always necessary.
Maybe some of my methods and horizons are too broad for the narrow minded ?
NOT using some old fuzzy sweat socks that are 3 years old and dilapidated.
Been using this method for over 10 years now.
Never once an issue.
I'm completely sold on it.
Protecting the internals of an InjPump is usually not that difficult when given just a little extra thought.
But newer folks can easily overlook that or get distracted during the operation.
Tippsy20 seems to have done a great job on his 1st In-Car reseal.
Congrats to you Tippsy20
Strategic use of the mighty vac can pinpoint whether you have problems before the filter or past the filter.
It may be time to upgrade the old factory supply lines under the hood.
Translucent Tygon is my choice for ALL the various fuel and vacuum and pressure lines/hoses under hood.
aka - Seeing is Believing
Abacus
That helpful B4 guy
Run a lint roller over your socks sometime, new or cleaned, and you'll get an eyeful regarding your 10 year old backyard hack.
Narrow minded is the guy using clothing to fix his car instead of the proper tools. I've never needed a sock to fix any car other than to keep my feet warm. Come to think of it, Bentley makes no mention of socks either, not even with a VW part number.
Do you also use your underwear to cover the air cleaner? A hat for the cabin air maybe? Lol!
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Baron VonZeppelin
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2012
- Location
- CetaneCity, NorthCarolina
- TDI
- 98 Jetta TDI, 81 VW Truck TiDi, 85 Jetta TiDi
Tippsy, the diesel fuel system needs to be a closed circuit start to finish.
This includes the jumper/return hoses on the injectors.
Do yourself a quick favor and replace every hose you can under the hood that is fuel related, vacuum related, and boost related.
It takes about 20 feet of 1/8 id x 1/4 od Tygon to do every one of those size hoses under the hood. Including the one inside the ECU.
You can get it at most local private owned auto parts stores or lawn and garden repair facilities.
Its weed-eater fuel hose.
Not hard to source. $1.00 to $1.50 per foot usually.
aka 3mm id
The larger fuel supply and return hoses may or may not be available in Tygon local to you. But some place will likely have something else you can use until you source some Tygon online.
Diesel rated specific hose is advised for any longevity.
This includes the jumper/return hoses on the injectors.
Do yourself a quick favor and replace every hose you can under the hood that is fuel related, vacuum related, and boost related.
It takes about 20 feet of 1/8 id x 1/4 od Tygon to do every one of those size hoses under the hood. Including the one inside the ECU.
You can get it at most local private owned auto parts stores or lawn and garden repair facilities.
Its weed-eater fuel hose.
Not hard to source. $1.00 to $1.50 per foot usually.
aka 3mm id
The larger fuel supply and return hoses may or may not be available in Tygon local to you. But some place will likely have something else you can use until you source some Tygon online.
Diesel rated specific hose is advised for any longevity.
JETaah
Vendor , w/Business number
You can view all that beautiful vacuum!
just kidding....I get it. Plus, those lines can get clogged with crud if there is a breach in the system. And the turbo control lines can get clogged with oil that can trash the N75 valve. Like you say....seeing is believing ...and knowing.
Baron VonZeppelin
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2012
- Location
- CetaneCity, NorthCarolina
- TDI
- 98 Jetta TDI, 81 VW Truck TiDi, 85 Jetta TiDi
Lets just say I don't need VagCom to put my socks on in the morning.
Like yourself.
And I didn't need to have someone else do my first Diesel timing belt for me.
Like yourself.
Old school techniques will never become fully obsolete.
Can't think of any reason to ban them from discussions.
They should be able to co-exist when needed or applicable.
Is it parliamentary procedure for TDIclub Moderators to troll this way ?
Like yourself.
Been what now , almost 2 years of your bird brain antics towards me ?
Ridiculous
Like yourself.
And I didn't need to have someone else do my first Diesel timing belt for me.
Like yourself.
Old school techniques will never become fully obsolete.
Can't think of any reason to ban them from discussions.
They should be able to co-exist when needed or applicable.
Is it parliamentary procedure for TDIclub Moderators to troll this way ?
Like yourself.
Been what now , almost 2 years of your bird brain antics towards me ?
Ridiculous
Baron VonZeppelin
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2012
- Location
- CetaneCity, NorthCarolina
- TDI
- 98 Jetta TDI, 81 VW Truck TiDi, 85 Jetta TiDi
Socks or no socks I just want this thing to run...I want my 40+ mpg back!!! I have to stop at the local parts store and get my serpentine belt and idler tonight so I will grab some fuel line and start replacing them. Also I don't believe the 5th injector has been removed on this car. The T from the control valve runs to another T that goes under the air box and looks like it goes to the exhaust pipe right behind the engine. Would it be beneficial to eliminate this line while I'm in the mix?
Abacus
That helpful B4 guy
I've used the Tygon tubing before and it turns brittle with heat and age. Leaking injector returns are no fun.
Just thought I'd throw that out there.
Just thought I'd throw that out there.
Abacus
That helpful B4 guy
Here we were having a friendly discussion and you go and make it personal.
For the record: I do own a Vag-Com, and so do many other people here on the board. It is a great diagnostic tool but hardly one I need to dress in the morning.
I did have someone else do my first timing belt many years ago, so what. Many of us had someone else do it, but then learned to do it ourselves. Why would you belittle someone for not doing their first timing belt? You were not the first one to wipe your nose, yet you learned to do it in time. Doing something first is not a status symbol, doing it correctly every time is.
Some old school techniques have no place in non-old school vehicles. Leave them for the old vehicles and use the proper methods to repair the new ones (like Mark & Pray timing belts). Thinking outside the box is fine, but there are consequences to doing so, like I mentioned with the sock. If he had a tiny thread or piece of lint come off and clog the injector it'd be a disaster and possibly a melted piston. I tried using humor (did you not see the lol and wink, I saw yours) by substituting other items of clothing but apparently it wasn't read that way. I was actually hoping you'd chime along with other articles of clothing but it went a different route entirely.
Who mentioned banning anything, where did that come from?
I am not a moderator on this board, here I am just another member. I don't troll, I offer opinion when relevant. I offered why using a sock was a bad idea.
I do not know what you mean about 2 years. Can you elaborate? If you feel that somehow I have slighted you over the last 2 years then you are mistaken. I don't know you and if I posted something contrary to yours then it must have been for a reason, but it was never personal.
I don't know if you're having a bad day or not, but making it personal is not the best way to go about getting your message across. If you want to refute something I posted, then please do so, but let's keep personal out of it, shall we?
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I replaced the smaller lines underneath the injectors and pulled some more air out with my mity vac before I attached it back to the injection pump. Ran for about 1 minute with air in the line. Now it appears to be air free!!!! Hopefully I got it!
I've been around cars my whole life. I own a 40th anniversary grand prix gtp with a 3.8(love the engine not happy with the car) a 2012 GMC Acadia Denali(love it) a 97 Bonneville with a 3.8 (same engine as the 02 GTP but car is way better) stepdad owns several old chevelles....I have a 1971 chevelle and I drove racecars from before I had a drivers license up until I took over promoting a racetrack. I am happy to not be promoting anymore by the way...but my point is I've been around a lot of cars and my 96 passat seems to have quality that I have never experienced before. The doors even sound different when they close....dunno what it is but I am glad I found this forum and u guys helped me cause I was ready to scrap this thing and move on. I drive around 50 miles a day back and forth to work and my passat cuts my fuel consumption in half. Thank you everyone who helped me and I will remember to keep in touch with my mileage count 317k and some change at the moment.
Also I work full time as a CNC machinist and programmer and j also own my own shop on the side so I have access to my own equipment if anyone has any ideas on machined parts for these cars to make them better. I have a CNC lathe of my own and 2 CNC mills.
Abacus
That helpful B4 guy
Sweet! Yes, I can think of a few items that would be better in aluminum: the head coolant flange, the thermostat housing, and the old style CCV (crankcase ventilation) tube that was 2 piece instead of the warp prone single piece we're stuck with today. Just the base with a hose barb on it would be fine, no need for the whole tube. I get tired of replacing those items and most of what's left is Chinese garbage that warps often.
This board is a wealth of information and 317K is nothing for a B4. Something Herm (Maine TDI Trusted Mechanic) told me 8+ years ago has stuck with me ever since: 60% of what you read on the internet is true, your job is to figure out which 40% is not worth following. Anyone who knows Herm also knows he used some very colorful words to convey the point but that was the basic message. Some methods here are tried and true (like tested procedures), some methods here seem to work but have no scientific support (like the 2 cycle mixture I use), and some are downright things to avoid (like using engine parts from a guy named Prothe in NC). It's a difficult job sometimes but worth it in the end. I also avoid using CRAP (Chinese Replacement Auto Parts) when I can help it but you have to ask most places where the part was made in advance. And just because it says "Meyle-Germany" does not mean it was actually Made in Germany, lots of CRAP houses do this to confuse the customer.
One thing I forgot to mention, when replacing the serpentine tensioner, replace the roller if it feels like the grease has dried in the bearing. There are two roller types so make sure you get the better one with the larger bearing, they're around $25-$30 instead of $5-$10. It should spin like it has grease inside. If it doesn't and spins freely and easily, then it'll die in short order.
Good call on the Vag-Com, it's worth its weight in gold when diagnosing these, but you have to get used to what it tells you since it's only a diagnostic tool. Run some logs to see how various parts are working and just get used to it in general. How to interpret what you're looking at is key for figuring out what is wrong.
Other than that, welcome to the board!
.
This board is a wealth of information and 317K is nothing for a B4. Something Herm (Maine TDI Trusted Mechanic) told me 8+ years ago has stuck with me ever since: 60% of what you read on the internet is true, your job is to figure out which 40% is not worth following. Anyone who knows Herm also knows he used some very colorful words to convey the point but that was the basic message. Some methods here are tried and true (like tested procedures), some methods here seem to work but have no scientific support (like the 2 cycle mixture I use), and some are downright things to avoid (like using engine parts from a guy named Prothe in NC). It's a difficult job sometimes but worth it in the end. I also avoid using CRAP (Chinese Replacement Auto Parts) when I can help it but you have to ask most places where the part was made in advance. And just because it says "Meyle-Germany" does not mean it was actually Made in Germany, lots of CRAP houses do this to confuse the customer.
One thing I forgot to mention, when replacing the serpentine tensioner, replace the roller if it feels like the grease has dried in the bearing. There are two roller types so make sure you get the better one with the larger bearing, they're around $25-$30 instead of $5-$10. It should spin like it has grease inside. If it doesn't and spins freely and easily, then it'll die in short order.
Good call on the Vag-Com, it's worth its weight in gold when diagnosing these, but you have to get used to what it tells you since it's only a diagnostic tool. Run some logs to see how various parts are working and just get used to it in general. How to interpret what you're looking at is key for figuring out what is wrong.
Other than that, welcome to the board!
.
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