leaking injection pump
- Thread starter akal59
- Start date
Marc Bourget
Well-known member
A YouTube post said 5/32" or .15625" or 3.96875 mm (call it 4mm? - I do not have any metric drills)
ericTheHalf
Member
I hate digging up old threads, but...
I removed the timing plug, rotated the engine to get the drill bit to the furtherest out position, then screwed the plug back in by hand. Before the plug was all the way back in I encounter some resistance so stopped. There is about 1.5 mm left to go before it is all the way back in. Is there anything that can come out of alignment that would prevent the plug from going all the way back in way?
I removed the timing plug, rotated the engine to get the drill bit to the furtherest out position, then screwed the plug back in by hand. Before the plug was all the way back in I encounter some resistance so stopped. There is about 1.5 mm left to go before it is all the way back in. Is there anything that can come out of alignment that would prevent the plug from going all the way back in way?
KLXD
Top Post Dawg
The big plug has the o-ring that'll touch before the plug is bottomed. But removal of either plug will allow anything to fall out of place.
Edit: OOPS. That's removal of NEITHER plug will allow anything to fall out of place.
Edit: OOPS. That's removal of NEITHER plug will allow anything to fall out of place.
Last edited:
ericTheHalf
Member
The 12 mm, as indicated in the photo. Will the crush washer fill the gap? Once I find it or a new one.
KLXD
Top Post Dawg
Edited my post above.
Drug out my extra pump. Seems they did away with the copper gasket at some point. The bolt has a conical end with a central pin about 1/8" diameter and about 3/16" long. The bottom of the hole has a conical seat the plug bottoms against. Steel to steel. So no copper gasket gasket under the head.
This is an 11 mm pump so maybe that makes a difference and only the 10 mm heads had the seal and a flat ended plug?
Drug out my extra pump. Seems they did away with the copper gasket at some point. The bolt has a conical end with a central pin about 1/8" diameter and about 3/16" long. The bottom of the hole has a conical seat the plug bottoms against. Steel to steel. So no copper gasket gasket under the head.
This is an 11 mm pump so maybe that makes a difference and only the 10 mm heads had the seal and a flat ended plug?
ericTheHalf
Member
Ah. NEITHER. I'm feeling better now.
This is mine, matches your description. Thank you for digging out your extra pump. Maybe there isn't a crush washer? I'm usually good about paying attention to what comes off.
I can't find a torque for that bolt in Bently. Anyone know?
In other news, the head gasket is in. Went very slowly and didn't encounter any resistance with that.
This is mine, matches your description. Thank you for digging out your extra pump. Maybe there isn't a crush washer? I'm usually good about paying attention to what comes off.
I can't find a torque for that bolt in Bently. Anyone know?
In other news, the head gasket is in. Went very slowly and didn't encounter any resistance with that.
KLXD
Top Post Dawg
The head would be bigger if a copper gasket were used. Look at the mating surfaces and you'll see the marks. I'd look in the book for the torque but VW doesn't have you taking this plug out for anything.
I'd measure the threads and use the torque spec for that size bolt. If it leaks add a little. It dose see full injection pressure. Maybe a search will turn up something.
I'd measure the threads and use the torque spec for that size bolt. If it leaks add a little. It dose see full injection pressure. Maybe a search will turn up something.
ericTheHalf
Member
Thank you for the help, KLXD and ToddA1.
All back together now. Pump primed, lines bled, engine started and that showed me the quantity adjuster seals are next.
All back together now. Pump primed, lines bled, engine started and that showed me the quantity adjuster seals are next.