- Oct 4, 2005
- Severna Park, Maryland USA
- 2003 Jetta ;2006 Golf; 2015 Jetta S
World Impex has Mann for $6.52,Mahle for $8.52, and OEM VW for $16. of course there is frieght (mine is giving a 6 pack to a coworker to p/u 4 me) but the more more you buy the less expensive it is per unit, signifigantly). I am ditching my K&N filters for Mann. Even Pat Goss of Motorweek, Goss's garage, On Maryland Public Television (MPT) and on Speed Channel says the the aren.t worth using because the engine will get the air it was meant to have.andreigbs said:Maybe keeping things in perspective will help. Look at this way: the service manual says air filters should be changed at 40K miles. Just because the filter "looks" dirty doesn't mean it's time to change it at 5k. And those monkeys at Jiffy Lube shouldn't even touch it, but that's another story.
Anyways, at around 40K you pick up a brand-new OEM filter for a whopping $13, which is good for another 40K. So if your engine lasts you 250,000 miles and you don't crash the car or sell it in this time, you'll have spent $82 on just air filters.
Using the K&N filter, you have to figure in the cost of at LEAST one bad MAF caused by the oil. Sure, you could have the MAF go out using the stock paper one as well. But how much more at risk is the MAF with more dust and dirt particles slamming into it? More air flow means less resistance, i.e. filtration.
So you pay the $45 for the K&N, and you buy the $12 recharge kit which is good for about 2-3 uses, tops. Except that to keep the filtration at the best level it can be for the K&N, it needs to be cleaned and reoiled more often than 40K miles. Otherwise you're just letting in all kinds of debris into your engine and turbo, which is like sand in private parts, as DB wittily pointed out.
Not only does the K&N filter not seal perfectly well, unlike the OEM filters which are meant for one-time crush foam seal, but you also spend more on cleaning and recharging, not considering the down-time while you wash it, dry it, oil it and replace it. Add to that poorer filtration at the cost of more flow, which your turbo more than compensates for btw, and you've got an expensive oily mess that will only cause problems sooner or later.
Why chance it? For the 1hp it adds or 5 lbs/ft of torque you just swear you can feel? Turbos are anywhere from $500 and up, MAFs from $120 and up. Why spend $45+$12= $57 for an extra factor to worry about?
Run OEM, change every 40K unless you live in AZ, keep your money for other things. My 2 pennies' worth, anyway.