I think this is right, I'm sure I'll be corrected if not:
Raise car.
Remove front wheels.
You may want to remove the Front-right driveshaft if your fiddling with the DPF or anything further up behind the engine. If so, put a screwdriver in the brake disc and loosen the outer axle bolt now. (or loosen it 1/4 turn before raising the car)
Straighten steering wheel.
In the drivers' footwell, remove plastic trim piece behind the pedals.
Loosen pinch bolt where the steering column connects to the steering rack, the one below the universal joint and lift it off the rack - I think you have to remove the pinch bolt to slide it off? (This is in the footwell behind the trim panel) - The repair manual states do not turn the steering wheel or steering rack after they are disconnected from each other.
Disconnect sway bar end links from struts
Separate outer steering ball joint from knuckle
Separate lower ball joint from lower control arm
Remove Front-right axle if you're doing that
Disconnect Steering rack and oil level sensor-(if fitted?) wiring harness. There's a 6 pin plug on the chassis rail in front of fuse box, you can follow the harness up from the subframe, under the battery box and forward to find the plug. Also disconnect the large steering rack power cable from the front of the fuse box (it's in the same harness).
Disconnect the dog bone mount (I undo the 2 bolts at the front to the gearbox). I usually use something to support the engine/gearbox from underneath so it doesn't swing around with the dog bone mount off.
If you have the subframe alignment pins, keep them handy. Otherwise, you'll have to use a paint pen or something to accurately mark the subframe position so you can line it up when you re-fit it.
Support the sub frame with a trolley jack or something you can lower it down with. Remove the sub frame to body bolts. If you have the subframe alignment pins, fit them as you remove each bolt. I think there are 6 big bolts holding it on. 4 at the back and 2 higher up in front to the chassis rails.
At this point, the subframe, steering rack-(including wiring harness), swaybar, and lower control arms should lower down and come off as 1 assembly. Watch that you feed the wiring harness through as you lower the sub frame and don't rip it off.
Now you have heaps of room to do any work underneath and at the back of the engine, and the sub frame assembly can be worked on on a bench. It sounds like a lot, but most of those steps are quick. Its by far the easiest option and will result in less curse words. Hardest part is getting the subframe back in exactly the same position if you're just relying on paint marks.