Just bought 1999 TDI beetle! Stock everything, 110k on the clock.

Turbospool

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Daleville Va
TDI
2001 White TDI Jetta, 280k, 2003 jetta 270k
What first updates or mods would you reccomend? It's a 5 speed manual shift, grinds just a bit into first if shifted from stop to go. Thanks.
 

Lightflyer1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 13, 2005
Location
Round Rock, Texas
TDI
2015 Beetle tdi dsg
Make sure the shifter linkage is properly aligned. Also, you may want to consider some kind of a panzer plate underneath as they sit way close to the ground. The one I had was not even a key fob off the ground. I had the oil pan replaced on it due to that. Then got it out of the trusted mechanic shop and immediately ground it open again. Replace the oil pan again and had a full panzer set up installed on it as well.
 

Turbospool

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Daleville Va
TDI
2001 White TDI Jetta, 280k, 2003 jetta 270k
Thanks for those recommendations! I failed to mention timing belt was done recently! I will need to get this thing up on a hoist and see what needs to be protected and check the shift linkage.
 

Genesis

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 26, 2003
Location
Sevier County TN
TDI
'03 Jetta Wagon
Do not believe "the timing belt was done" without a DETAILED receipt from the shop that did it, or if the person did it you have to see their invoice for the parts AND their tools. If not satisfied or you don't you are rolling the dice on that; remove the top cover and look for evidence of an improper job (e.g. paint pen marks, etc.)
 

Turbospool

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Daleville Va
TDI
2001 White TDI Jetta, 280k, 2003 jetta 270k
Thanks for that caution! I found a sticker with info written to done and next interval milage needed again on the engine bay.
 

snakeye

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Location
Montreal, Canada
TDI
2003 Jetta and Wagon, GLS 5sp
My wagon grinds in first, has been doing it since I bought the car 100k km ago. I've gotten used to it and it doesn't bother me one bit. I basically slow down my shifts into first. I put G70 fluid in the gearbox, didn't fix it.
 

peters911s

Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2022
Location
Seattle Area
TDI
2003 ALH Beetle
I'll be honest my ALH Timing belt failed at the tensioner....previous owner had it installed at a shop that didn't understand how it was supposed to be properly eh....tensioned. Good look see of the components will help you decide if you trust the work.
 

Lightflyer1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 13, 2005
Location
Round Rock, Texas
TDI
2015 Beetle tdi dsg
They exist. We had a shop in Austin that did all the cars I owned. Did excellent work till runonbeer closed his shop and moved. The good ones are few and far between for most of us though.
 

PakProtector

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Location
AnnArbor, MI
TDI
Mk.4's and the Cummins
One of mine came to me not running. With a new belt kit installed( a good one ). Tensioner not set right, and the wrong No.1 TDC used( the pump was a crank revolution out ). It got a new kit( not trusting things were torqued properly) and tensioned right. The timing belt looks daunting, but it is not really all that bad.

Douglas
 

Turbospool

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Daleville Va
TDI
2001 White TDI Jetta, 280k, 2003 jetta 270k
So to bring this discussion back on track....... here are a few more questions.
1. Will I be able to swap my pp520 injectors off from my 2001 jetta direct into this 99 beetle? Will this alone slip my clutch?
 

Lex4TDI4Life

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 22, 2006
Location
NorCal
TDI
2001 Golf-Ute TDI GLS 5spd Manual
PP520s should be fine on the stock clutch. I believe the 99s had a more robust clutch than those coming after anyway.

On the assumption that your suspension is either original or very old, a refresh of dampers, mounts, and bushings will do wonders. I would personally also throw new springs at it, but yours may be fine.
 

Turbospool

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Daleville Va
TDI
2001 White TDI Jetta, 280k, 2003 jetta 270k
1 key fob, does not activate the door, replaced the battery in the fob, still nothing . Locks and unlocks door with key inserted. Any advice on repair? Thanks
 

Sting

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2004
I'll second on Redline MT-90. I used it for years in my E30 and my ALH. Always shifts smooth, no winter issues.

I'd kill the EGR too. Either do the VCDS software adaptation, or just unplug the vacuum line and block it with a bolt, golf tee, etc. My car has tossed no codes, and has been driving fine.
 

PakProtector

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Location
AnnArbor, MI
TDI
Mk.4's and the Cummins
PP520s should be fine on the stock clutch. I believe the 99s had a more robust clutch than those coming after anyway.

On the assumption that your suspension is either original or very old, a refresh of dampers, mounts, and bushings will do wonders. I would personally also throw new springs at it, but yours may be fine.
Second a suspension refresh. On my '04 daily, I did it at 80k. TT rear control arm bushings, Cupra R rear axle bushings, Bilstein HD's and eventually Black powerflex strut mounts. At 245k they're all still good...but I do wander what new ones would do. The rear axle bushings looked good when I took 'em out but there were witness marks showing how far they were moving. And stiffer is better... :) LOL

Douglas
 

Sting

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2004
My 2003 NB kicked on a check engine light when I plugged the EGR line and when I used the VCDS adaptation method, my MPG dropped by 3mpg...I put everything back to stock.
It's a funny thing... I hear some people say that, others, nothing. Personally, it seems like the car is warming up better and no hit on the fuel economy that I've noticed. On my recent US road trip, 8000 km, I was pushing at least 75 MPH and up to 85 on the interstates and highways, and I was getting about 5.9L/100 km. That was with 3 grown people, luggage and a chocolate lab. I drove out west from Ontario two years ago and doing the same... and I was getting about 5.5. Considering the weight differential, I don't think the unplugged EGR is doing anything bad in my case.

As always YMMV.
 

Turbospool

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Daleville Va
TDI
2001 White TDI Jetta, 280k, 2003 jetta 270k
So, the seller informed me that he had the EGR disabled via vag. Should I still block off the vac line? Would it still be good to remove the valve and clean it.? What about blocking it off with a plate below where it goes to egr cooler? Thanks.
 

Sting

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2004
You don't have to. If it's been disabled you're good. Take a look inside and see how bad it looks. Pull the hose from the passenger side and use a light to see inside - try to see through to the intake side, that's where most of the buildup happens. If there's just a bit of stuff sticking to the walls (less than 2-3 mm thick, it's fine. I'd only be concerned if you find that the intake is really blocked.

Hopefully things were pretty clean when it got disabled. Also, current fuel standards have pretty much mitigated the issue. If you can get a pic, post it.
 

ducatipaso

Airhead Butcher
Joined
Nov 17, 2001
Location
norcal
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI
"disabled via VAG" implies that the "EGR adaptation mod" was done

well, I did this to the 2002 I own, when it was new. the adaptation did nothing of value and the intake was clogged at 200k

I would check the intake's cleanliness, and consider a clean out if needed and a REAL EGR delete which can be done by different tuners.

I took it a step further and installed a solid copper gasket on the manifold side of the EGR pipe to be doubleplusgood
 

snakeye

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Location
Montreal, Canada
TDI
2003 Jetta and Wagon, GLS 5sp
So to bring this discussion back on track....... here are a few more questions.
1. Will I be able to swap my pp520 injectors off from my 2001 jetta direct into this 99 beetle? Will this alone slip my clutch?
I believe the 2001 uses a different plug as the 2003.
snakeye, next time try some synchomesh (Pennzoil or Valvoline). The G70 is thinner than the original brew.
Synchromesh has been known to cure grinding. Redline MT-90 works great too.
I don't know... I mean my G70 is also thicker when it's like 20 below freezing outside, still grinds in first.
 

STDOUBT

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Location
Portland, effing Oregon
TDI
dos jettas
From what I've read, it's the "film" from the synchromesh, and especially with the MT90, it just coats and doesn't leave the metal even after sitting a long time. Worth a try IMO next time you have to change it out. From everything I've learned reading this site, the idea of "lifetime" fluids is 100% Bull Squeeze. My grind (into 2nd) started only about 50k miles into my second refill using the original OE G50. I now plan to change my gear oil every 40k miles.
 

PakProtector

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Location
AnnArbor, MI
TDI
Mk.4's and the Cummins
Another happy MT90 user here. At least one of the herd has some Synchromesh in it too. That left over from filling up my NV5600... :)

In any case, fill them over nominal. Up on ramps/front stands, and dam the lower half of the upper opening with your thumb.

Douglas
 
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