JSW Tailer Wiring with Curt converter

[uberdiesel]

Has anyone used this part with good results?

http://www.trailerhitches.com/elect...201poweredcircuitprotectedpwmsttconverter.cfm

Thanks.

 

[nedro018]

i havent seen this but i was wondering if you've seen trailer wiring harnesses made for the 2009-2010 jettas?

there's not alot of slack in the rear wiring harnesses to tap a harness into, and i like the idea "plug-n-play" connections that dont require pulling out wiring diagrams. know where i can find one?

i just installed the jetta trailer hitch by curt and love it, but now need to wire it in. thanks.

 

[dirtyexhaust]

Wiring problems

Same here. I was just getting ready to post the same thing and thought I would do a search first. I need to know which converter to use on the 2010 Jetta TDI Sedan. I asked the dealer last night and they said its a 3 - 4 hour job to reprogram the computer = 3 - 4 hundred dollars.

 

[mirage2521]

. I asked the dealer last night and they said its a 3 - 4 hour job to reprogram the computer = 3 - 4 hundred dollars.

It may be true but thats ure sounds like your dealer is full of it. I have had every hitch I have ever owned installed by my local Uhaul, they have always done a great job. I wouild call and ask them for their thoughts on the subject

 

[patman]

check out eurohitches.com. they have some wiring harnesses that may fit your needs.

I'm also looking to buy a hitch for a 2010 sportwagon. Anyone have pics of their hitches available? Appreciate input about pros and cons of their hitch.

 

[nofossil]

I installed the Curt 11072 on my 2010 JSW. The install was easy and the hitch seems to be very nice quality. The JSW needs the Curt 56146 tail light converter. The wires can be pretty easily snaked across - you just have to remove the trim along the back of the spare tire well. Two screws and it pulls straight up. I just plugged into the cargo area cigarette lighter for power because I'm too chicken to try and remove enough trim to get at the wires on the back of it.

 

[uberdiesel]

I installed the Curt 11072 on my 2010 JSW. The install was easy and the hitch seems to be very nice quality. The JSW needs the Curt 56146 tail light converter. The wires can be pretty easily snaked across - you just have to remove the trim along the back of the spare tire well. Two screws and it pulls straight up. I just plugged into the cargo area cigatette lighter for power because I'm too chicken to try and romve enough trim to get at the wires on the back of it.

Are you using two curt products together? The Curt 11072 and the 56146 converter?

I am interested in the Curt 56201-Powered-Circuit-Protected-PWM-STT-Converter which i believe does the work of those devices combined.

Is my impression correct?

I guess I'm still looking for someone who has successfully installed and uses the Curt 56201 unit.

I appreciate your input.

 

[nofossil]

Are you using two curt products together? The Curt 11072 and the 56146 converter?

I am interested in the Curt 56201-Powered-Circuit-Protected-PWM-STT-Converter which i believe does the work of those devices combined.

Is my impression correct?

I guess I'm still looking for someone who has successfully installed and uses the Curt 56201 unit.

I appreciate your input.

The 11072 is the hitch itself. The 56201 is a converter for cars that use the pulse width modulated scheme to send stop / turn / tail signals down the same wire. The 20101 JSW seems to NOT be one of those vehicles (at least mine isn't). Therefore, the 56146 does the job for me. Good thing - it's less than a quarter of the price ;-)

 

[nofossil]

Since I can't be the only one who struggled with this, here's some data from Curt. They were really helpful, and even followed up to make sure the install went OK. Pretty impressive and all too rare these days. This is for connecting a Curt 56146 to a 2010 JSW. YMMV.

Driver's side:

Gray / Black (pin 1): Tail Light
Black / Red (pin 2): Brake
Brown (pin 3): Ground
Black / White (pin 4): Left Turn
Black / Blue (pin 5): Reverse

Passenger's side:

Gray / Black (pin 1): Tail Light
Black / Purple (pin 2): Brake
Brown (pin 3): Ground
Black / Green (pin 4): Right Turn
Black / Blue (pin 5): Reverse

 

[rix337]

I am wondering if it is the same for mine since I had to change some wiring for my OEM LED taillights. I am about to get the curt hitch for my sedan, although I am not even sure it will clear my votex body kit or not. Ahh, the joys of multiple modifications...

 

[nedro018]

side-question about trailer wiring...

my trailer is german made and they dont use the 2-bulb light assemblies (stop lamp and tail lamp) where the tail light also doubles as the turn signal.

American style trailers use such 2-bulb light assemblies , therfore they require the "converter" boxes to mate them to modern auto signal outputs.

my german trailer instead has 3 lamps in each fixture: tail, turn, and stop. each fixture harness has 4 wires, the 3 signals above plus a ground.

any ideas on how to wire this?

1) i dont need a converter, rt?
2) do i just need a 5 pin (or higher) connecter: left turn, rt turn, tail, stop, ground) ?
3) to feed current to the 2 stop/tail lamps (common to both trailer fixtures), can i just splice off the stop/tail signals from one side of the car (say, left) or would this draw too much current?

thanks for help.

 

[golfwagon10]

Hi, I got my euro hitch installed and need to get the module for wiring. I'm interested in the curt 56146. I'm wondering where you were able to connect to provide the 12vdc for module.

I know we have a 12v outlet on the passenger side rear panel but that only seems to be active when the ignition is on.

Thanks Brian

 

[Early8Q]

I use that auxiliary plug. I picked up a plug at radio shack. I wired the system without cutting or compromising the factory harness; I used small spade connectors at the tail lights. I simply pull the module and wiring out of the spare tire well and plug in the aux socket when I hitch up a trailer. Works well for me.

 

[golfwagon10]

I used small spade connectors at the tail lights.

Would you happen to have a picture of the spades or the part number?


Thanks Brian

 

[Early8Q]

I did not use anything fancy this time. I just grabbed a couple of packs of simple connectors from radio shack. You can often get a kit with a variety of sizes and types of connectors with a crimp tool for cheap at a hardware store or harbor freight.

I just use some short runs of wires with crimp connectors. Here is a pic.

These might be small pins rather than spades. Its a tight fit. I just push the pins in along side the factory wiring where it is exposed inside the plug.

 

[rix337]

For some reason I cannot view either of those pics you have links to. It keeps telling me I have to be registered to view images. Heck, I have been a registered user on here for years....

 

[Early8Q]

That is odd. Maybe you have to log in to the pic section using the usual credentials. I will try to imbed the images later.

 

[Early8Q]

Fixed it, sorry. Look at the original post again.

 

[golfwagon10]

Great pictures, I see what you mean. I will pick some up this week.

So do you know if the trailer lights work if the ignition is off? I'm a bit concerned if you pulled over on the freeway and turn off the ignition the 4ways on the trailer would not be working.

Thanks again
Brian

 

[Early8Q]

You are correct, the Aux power port is switched. The trailer lighting does not work unless the ignition is switched on in my car. The lighting controller is the only source of power to the lights on the trailer; if it is not getting power the trailer lights are not getting power.

 

[nedro018]

i used the curt 11072 hitch and 56146 converter, works great. i loosened all the trim in the back of my wagon because the wiring at tailight connectors was way too tight, plus i didnt want a bunch of spices/taps appearing there to the dealer/other buyers. so i tapped the signal wires on drivers side where they ran along horizontal floor behin fender...that's also where i mounted the converter. i used the wiring diagram in earlier post, worked great. ran power from the cig socket in rear area, but tapped into socket from rear of trip so front of plug wouldnt have plug sticking out of it. the curt hitch is OK but sits low and will definently hit the ground if you back up into a steep driveway or bounce over bumps, loaded. who cares? only the hitch touches and it's designed for it. plus...the jetta sits low anyway. i have a trailer and it tows fine. i also have a 4' cargo rack and it rides WAY too low for use without contacting the ground. a std 5 inch hitch riser isnt enough to raise it up...i paid a welder $100 to fab a 9.5 hitch riser, this rides the cargo basket level to rear wagon bed.

 

[BuilderBob]

i loosened all the trim in the back of my wagon because the wiring at tailight connectors was way too tight, plus i didnt want a bunch of spices/taps appearing there to the dealer/other buyers.

Can you share any info about how you gained access to the rear of the power outlet? In my extremely brief examination of that area, I didn't see an obvious way to get in there.

 

[nedro018]

i shouldve taken photos but i didnt. 10 the rear trim aft of wheel well comes out first, 2 plastic screws then it "pulls" up after friction plugs let go 2) remove all subdecks in wagon until you can see the plastic framing supporting the subfloor. this all has to come out. why? because the aft end of this frame has 2 large "plugs" that secure the fabric trim on left rt sides of wagon, aft of wheel wells remove the 6-8 screws holding the plastic frame to the deck, then "shoe" the whole thing in parts forward and up. the last to go is the rearmost ones with the plugs 3) then the fabric trim securing the laft/rt sides can be pulled inward, from the rear, about 1 foot, enough for access behind (left side for trailer plug signal wires, rt side for power. as you pull the trim up, friction plugs will let go. hopes all this helps. yes i know, a picture is worth a 1000 words

 

[BuilderBob]

i shouldve taken photos but i didnt. 10 the rear trim aft of wheel well comes out first, 2 plastic screws then it "pulls" up after friction plugs let go 2) remove all subdecks in wagon until you can see the plastic framing supporting the subfloor. this all has to come out. why? because the aft end of this frame has 2 large "plugs" that secure the fabric trim on left rt sides of wagon, aft of wheel wells remove the 6-8 screws holding the plastic frame to the deck, then "shoe" the whole thing in parts forward and up. the last to go is the rearmost ones with the plugs 3) then the fabric trim securing the laft/rt sides can be pulled inward, from the rear, about 1 foot, enough for access behind (left side for trailer plug signal wires, rt side for power. as you pull the trim up, friction plugs will let go. hopes all this helps. yes i know, a picture is worth a 1000 words

Thank you. When I attempt this, using your instructions, I'll take some pictures and post them up.

 

[uberdiesel]

I appreciate the good information being offered here. I'm going to look into the Curt module, but I'm also going to do some research on the OEM Tiguan traler module.
Apparently it could be a nearly seemless application. I'm guessing, maybe just a bit more costly.

 

[kjclow]

I was quoted around $200 at U-haul for hitch and install. I am assuming that includes the wiring, but did not think to ask.

Ok, $200 was just for the hitch platform. Add the tounge and ball and full install came up to $245. They want an additional $120 to do the wiring. Based on the posts here, I guess I'll do that myself.

 

[vw_leadfoot]

Thank you. When I attempt this, using your instructions, I'll take some pictures and post them up.

It is shown in the Bentley Service Manual how to remove this trim...I will likey be running power from the battery though as I want to use the 12V outlet for other things.....I know it will be a bitc* but worth it....will also run another wire at the same time for a future brake control or whatever.....

 

[BuilderBob]

It is shown in the Bentley Service Manual....

I don't have one.

 

[vw_leadfoot]

These might be small pins rather than spades. Its a tight fit. I just push the pins in along side the factory wiring where it is exposed inside the plug.

A very interesting idea.....I may just try this......thanks.....I know on the rear of the Passat light there were actual unused tabs and I made a totally removable harness......

What I might try is to remove the wire from the black connector and make a 2-to-1 connector with OEM parts.....

 

[vw_leadfoot]

I don't have one.

Ah if I had it here at work I'd email you some copies of the pages......PM me if you want and I can bring it in tomorrow and scan it for you.