Well, got the turbo mounted...sort of. Turns out i will need to clock the cold side in order for the turbo to clear the motor mount. Does anyone have any suggestions on a push style vacuum actuator for the gtc1549?
After doing some research. I found the easiest, cheapest and best method of rust removal. Electrolysis, grab some scrap steal (NOT STAINLESS), fill a bucket of water, grab some Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda from the grocery store (laundry soap aisle), and a battery trickle charger.
Fill the bucket with water, and use 1Tbsp of soda per 1 gallon of water and mix well.
Place the scrap steal in the bucket and place the rusty part on the opposite side of the buck without touching the scrap. Clamp the negative side of the trickle charger on the part and the positive on the scrap and wait 24-48 hours.
I wish I could afford ceramic coating. I was thinking shoot it with a high temp primer, likely the same product the block was painted with. Why not paint it while its still hot? Or at least warm so the porosity allows the paint to get all up in there?
Ceramic doesn't have to be expensive. The technology isn't new, so prices are coming down. I've used Jet Hot, Swain, Thermo Coat, generics, etc., with Jet Hot being the most expensive.
Cerakote has a home kit, that seems to get good reviews.
Something I learned about all ceramics is, they will fail if the car is not driven. The parts need to be heat cycled to get rid of the moisture. If moisture is present for an extended period of time, rust forms and lifts the coating.
No clue about your suggestion with the paint. That's going to be one of those YMMV.
Alright folks I have been doing some research on this electrolysis thing and it seems like what I want to do is apply a coat of phosphoric acid post drying in order to create surface rust and immediately hit the parts with some acid etch primer for the best results as per this site. Now I am a home brewer and noticed that the sterilization product known as starsan is 50% phosphoric acid (http://www.jstrack.org/brewing/msds/starsan.pdf). Could I use this in a solution of water and obtain successful results?
That MSDS is weird. They account for 75% of the compound buy have a parenthetical 75% listed for the phosphoric acid. I don't know what the other acid is or what the other 25% of the compound is, but paint can be really finicky so I'd advise the real stuff.