JETTA FLYWHEEL AND CLUTCH PROBLEM!!! HELP!!! Transmission

[tdi_guest]

TwoTone, I'm only aware of the TSB 30 07 01 (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=1917995&postcount=1045) which was for the clutch plate friction material. Would this apply to the DSG? Is there another I should be aware of?

From what I can tell, this TSB seems to be a way VW replaced faulty Sachs flywheels without attributing fault to them. The TSB attributes the fault with the Sachs clutch plates, but in essence it is used to replace the bad Sachs flywheels because the replacement clutch plate from Luk must be matched with a Luk flywheel (see Note on page 4 of the TSB).

 

[TwoTone]

TwoTone, I'm only aware of the TSB 30 07 01 (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=1917995&postcount=1045) which was for the clutch plate friction material. Would this apply to the DSG? Is there another I should be aware of?

From what I can tell, this TSB seems to be a way VW replaced faulty Sachs flywheels without attributing fault to them. The TSB attributes the fault with the Sachs clutch plates, but in essence it is used to replace the bad Sachs flywheels because the replacement clutch plate from Luk must be matched with a Luk flywheel (see Note on page 4 of the TSB).

Sorry you're right, been a long time since I dealt with this myself.

 

[Kingowe]

Nothing like kicking a poor dead horse, but I’ve another DMF to report, lol.

I bought my ’06 Jetta off-lease in 2010 (my old man leased is for the first 4 years of his life) as I knew it had been taken care of, and it had less than 65,000 km (~40k miles). I’d only driven it a few times before that and didn’t really notice anything weird with the clutch (and whatever ‘weirdness’ I did noticed, I attributed it to the diesel factor!). Then I noticed when it was cold, the clutch would grab abruptly when I was taking off from a stop. The odd time I would stall it, otherwise it would just almost stall, bog down and then recover.

Flash forward 2 years and a couple of weeks ago it turned over 100,000km (the end of the powertrain warranty, which includes the flywheel according to the literature in my car, though it was over the 5 year time limit). To celebrate, I flashed in a Malone stage 1.5 tune and noticed that it started slipping (mileage is currently 100,413km). I noticed it started slipping a bit, not often, but usually whenever I was overly aggressive for more than 5 or 10 minutes. The cold weather ‘grabs’ have gotten worse, and this morning the cold weather grab was enough that, while I didn’t stall it, the car shook and shuddered a lot and I had to push the clutch back in halfway through my takeoffs to prevent the stall.

The production date is 08/06, and the VIN ends with 46M027888, so I’m not sure that it’s part of the technical bulletin or not, though the out-of-warranty status probably nullifies that. Either way, even if it was under the warranty, my plan is still the old SMF conversion. It feels like, as has already been mentioned, a ticking time bomb, so I figure I’ll order in the clutch kit, get it done locally and just be done with it.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread; without it, I’d be none the wiser. And sorry to those who suffered the sometimes pesky DMF and ended up worse off than me. I’ll update once I get the replacement installed, though I’m sure it’ll be similar to what everyone else is saying!!

 

[slamhouse]

Sounds like a glazed clutch to me. something not of a mechanical defect...

 

[Kingowe]

I finally got sick and tired of the nasty shudders I get when the tranny is cold and the increasingly near-stall starts I do as the temperature dips closer to freezing. It could be user error, I agree, but it doesn't seem to do it once I've been driving for a while and everything is warmed up.

Anyway, I got my act together and ordered the G60/VR6 combo from idparts, should be here towards the beginning of next week. Once I get it installed I'll be sure to check out my old DMF and see if there's any free-hand spin in that sucker. I'll report back.


Edit: Thanks for the input slamhouse; I'll let you know once it's off the car

 

[runonbeer]

Whoops! You ordered a clutch kit for a 6 cylinder gasser!

 

[baja_brewer]

Whoops! You ordered a clutch kit for a 6 cylinder gasser!

Not quite sure if you're being serious.... Damn Internet can make it so difficult

 

[slamhouse]

http://idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=76_102&products_id=764

The kit he ordered is indeed for our TDI. He is ok.

 

[Kingowe]

You are correct in the kit that I ordered from IDParts. It arrived towards the end of the first week in December, but one of the retaining fingers on the throwout bearing was broken (it was floating around in the bottom of the box, so maybe a shipping casualty). I contacted IDParts that same day and they shipped out a new bearing free of charge (as a side note, even little things like that go a long way in customer satisfaction. I sent a few pictures of the broken part, and a new one was on the way next day without me having to ship the defective one back. Thanks again IDParts!!). Anyway, I got that a bit later and wasted another week being an idiot and doing Christmas related stuff, haha, so by the time I called my shop to make an appointment, I had to wait for the new year (January 7th). They also checked the main seal and replaced the clutch fork while they were down there.

When I got the car back, the pedal feel was almost identical, if not just a little bit lighter. The release point was very different though, almost right at the floor. I’d push the clutch in and the first two-thirds of travel did nothing, and the last third disengaged it. Same with taking off or shifting gears; as soon as I’d start to lift my foot, it would begin to engage until about a third of the way through when it was fully engaged. The last two-thirds did nothing. Then about 50 or 60 kilometers of driving and shifting later, I just noticed that the release point was back to where it used to be. The auto-adjuster must have done its job.

As for the extra noise/chatter, when I’m stopped in neutral with the pedal out, there is a bit of noise, but I don’t think it’s any noisier than my old clutch was (though the old clutch was trash, so maybe that’s not saying a whole lot, lol). If I didn’t know the clutch had been replaced, the noise wouldn’t tip me off; it sounds like the stock clutch did. The surface of my old clutch didn’t look overly worn or glazed, and the mechanic said it didn’t look like it was failing or had any hot spots. I also couldn’t move the DMF with my hands, but the mechanic there said that that only tends to happen with the worn out ones.

Now the car doesn’t shudder or almost stall when I’m taking off and it’s cold, and with a Malone stage 2 reflash, there’s no slip either. Anyone thinking of replacing their clutch, but afraid of the unknown or using parts that aren’t specific for their car, I’d say do it. I'm going to say the same thing as other people who have done the swap, but the kit from IDParts makes it brainless (and it’s still on sale, http://idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=764), the extra noise, in my case, is negligible, and just knowing that I’m not sitting on a deteriorating DMF feels great. A great experience overall and I’d highly recommend it!

 

[headsup]

Gone for oil change and was told need Dual Mass FLywheel Replacement.

Lady owner of 2006 VW Jetta, automatic transmission with 218,000 kms. Don't know anything about mechanical stuff. Engine coolant light went on last night. Took it to VW dealership today. Did top up the coolant and also did 200,000 km inspection. Apparently found out there was an audible rattle on shut off (never noticed it before since I had many Jetta's but 1st one Diesel and attributed the noise to the fact it is a diesel) and was quoted an estimated cost of $1795 + tax Canadian $$$ to replace the Dual Mass Flywheel. Sounds a bit high to me but have no idea if this would be the usual replacement cost for this. Also need to replace or fix Driver Side Outer C/V Booth that is leaking. Estimated cost for that $195 + Tax. Wondering if I could figure out what parts to buy and have the repairs done by a regular mechanic or is diesel something quite different and need to be services by VW trained mechanics. I would also need to find exactly what parts to buy and where to order them at the best cost. Could someone help me? TOTALLY LOST WITH THIS MECHANICAL JARGON. Thanks Heads Up