Jetta 1.4t CZTA timing belt

[pedroYUL]

EDIT: job is done, go to post #32 for some tips.

Hey people,

I got a CZTA powered car for my son with 160k miles. What I read online is that the timing belt for this engine is "lifetime" with a first check at 150k miles and then every 20k thereafter.

I think I rather just change that belt and put it off my mind for another 150k miles. What do you guys think?

Anything else I should be aware off with this engine? It sounds and drives very good, actually.

Thanks!

 

[pedroYUL]

Was able to get a picture of the belt, not the best picture.

 

[MrCypherr]

Locking the cams is on the opposite side of the engine and there is a cam lock tool.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/camshaft-locking-tool/t10494~oev/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhc-sBhCEARIsAOVwHuS6Nwh8Pyw5x3-sTO3wbxxQUR5y7YWndlU-6tD9h19ltSsIsg1IOkoaAg4jEALw_wcB

Nice thing is, the water pump isnt ran off the belt so it saves yourself the mess.

 

[pedroYUL]

Yeah, multiple special tools needed. I am looking at this set, but still debating if that belt is ready to be changed:

Camshaft Engine Timing Tool Fit For VW Seat Skoda Audi 1.0 1.2 1.4 TSI TFSI Cyl | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Camshaft Engine Timing Tool Fit For VW Seat Skoda Audi 1.0 1.2 1.4 TSI TFSI Cyl at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[MrCypherr]

I know we have done one at around 200k km (125k miles) and it didnt show any wear or make any sounds as if it was showing age. At 160k, I would think for peace of mind, id personally do it cause then its not sitting in the back of your head.

 

[oilhammer]

They show that at 150k mile interval here. They also have an issue where the bolts back out of the cam phaser and blow oil all over the place. So for sure R&R those bolts and loctite them. It is kind of a job to do, given the way you have to lock them under the water pump at the other end of the engine. For sure not as easy or simple as older VAG belt setups, but at least it isn't a chain. I'd plan on doing the purge valve/hose assembly while in there, too, or modify it now so it won't break later. That requires the intake manifold come off.

 

[pedroYUL]

I know we have done one at around 200k km (125k miles) and it didnt show any wear or make any sounds as if it was showing age. At 160k, I would think for peace of mind, id personally do it cause then its not sitting in the back of your head.

Thanks! That's where my head is at. I will, however, postpone it till the thaw as I won't work in the cold unless absolutely necessary.

 

[pedroYUL]

They show that at 150k mile interval here. They also have an issue where the bolts back out of the cam phaser and blow oil all over the place. So for sure R&R those bolts and loctite them. It is kind of a job to do, given the way you have to lock them under the water pump at the other end of the engine. For sure not as easy or simple as older VAG belt setups, but at least it isn't a chain. I'd plan on doing the purge valve/hose assembly while in there, too, or modify it now so it won't break later. That requires the intake manifold come off.

Thanks! I just looked at that purge valve 04E-133-366-CQ, not horrible expensive. Also the belt kit is not horrible, but sellers don't offer all the bolts/nuts needed with the kit, and information is not that great online.

It is a different setup, but I hope I can manage this job.

 

[pedroYUL]

Also, this car has a manual transmission, and I'm having a hard time figuring out if it has a SMF setup, I see some Sachs kits out there for sale that say fit the 1.4T (https://www.europaparts.com/clutch-kit-04e141016k.html); or if it has a DMF of similar size and flavor as a TDI, as I have a spare LuK 17-050 kit leftover from an older car.

Car doesn't seem to need a clutch at the moment.

 

[oilhammer]

I think they just use a standard clutch.... I've never had to replace one yet (most I see are bolted to Aisin slushboxes anyway).

 

[pedroYUL]

Last question (hopefully). I used to own an Audi A4 with CAEB engine, was surprised by the fact that you couldn't open the oil fill plug or even the dipstick, as the engine would miss then terribly, never had a car like that. I think I remember reading that opening that creates a vacuum leak and hence the miss.

Now, I just did the same with this CZTA and it does not miss at all when I open the oil fill plug. Does that mean the PCV valve is done?

 

[oilhammer]

Don't look for problems that are not yet there.

The breather system is a calibrated leak of sorts. That's normal. How a specific engine deals with upsetting that calibrated leak might vary.

Again, I'd not worry about it.

The EA211 engine is very different than the EA888 engine (and you should be thankful for that).

 

[pedroYUL]

I took my opportunity (son wrote off the A4) and purposefully replaced that EA888 for this EA211. Although it took a lot of time and effort to find a reasonably priced one. Funny because the 1.4T engine itself (used) can be had for little money, but a Jetta 1.4T are never that cheap, maybe because they don't fail as much?

The EA888 was drinking oil like a sailor, but running good otherwise (they make gobs of power). It would never have survived a state with emissions testing, as the burning oil didn't let the catalyst pass, it was always below efficiency threshold.

 

[oilhammer]

Yeah, gotta tune those out.

It is really a shame that the EA888s are such turds, because you're right they do run really good and make plenty of power. Even in the bigger sleds like the Audi A6 or the fAtlas, even saddled with slushboxes and AWD, they still haul the mail... and the GTIs and Golf R are downright ridiculous power wise. But they are SO FRAGILE.

 

[ezshift5]

My EA211 - at 60,000 - has shown zero glitches. Fuelly has calc'd those 60,000 since new at 40.7 in 60% City driving. The 5-speed synchros are flawless in easy/positive shifting. The clutch is light and has easy/firm take-up (non-flakey friction point).

Hard to believe this Jetta"S" out the door with sales tax was less than my 1988 Acura Integra.....which I quickly traded for a Supra Turbo. The 'Teg was so damn weak!!

ez

 

[oilhammer]

I would strongly suggest you R&R and Loctite those cam phaser bolts, ezshift5. It is not that big of a deal to do this tiny bit of prevention, and the problems it creates if one backs out can be disastrous.

 

[ezshift5]

I took my opportunity (son wrote off the A4) and purposefully replaced that EA888 for this EA211. Although it took a lot of time and effort to find a reasonably priced one. Funny because the 1.4T engine itself (used) can be had for little money, but a Jetta 1.4T are never that cheap, maybe because they don't fail as much?

The EA888 was drinking oil like a sailor, but running good otherwise (they make gobs of power). It would never have survived a state with emissions testing, as the burning oil didn't let the catalyst pass, it was always below efficiency threshold.

This sailor sails an EA211 - odometer 60,000 - oil usage is close to zero (factory 10,000 sked). Never had any issues since 2017 new car purchase

I've had a Bug, a Quantum, 2 Rabbits (one a 5M diesel pickup), a Karmann Ghia, a JSW (also diesel) - even a 914 (VW 1.8 4-cylinder...............

The 1.4L turbo is my 8th VW - - - all things considered - it's alone at the top: Criteria being initial cost, MPG, Reliability, fun to drive..............

(The 914 did corner better - - - - (low polar inertia thru mid-engine placement)

CU alligators

LATER,

ez

 

[RabbitGTI]

Yeah, gotta tune those out.

It is really a shame that the EA888s are such turds, because you're right they do run really good and make plenty of power. Even in the bigger sleds like the Audi A6 or the fAtlas, even saddled with slushboxes and AWD, they still haul the mail... and the GTIs and Golf R are downright ridiculous power wise. But they are SO FRAGILE.

Hi oilhammer, I have a major hankering for a GTI 380. Would be used for daily flogging and a few track days. I have read all your posts about the EA888 over the years, is it a matter of when, not if it blows up? It's such a hell of a deal with a limited slip and gorgeous retro interior for 30k.

Also looking at the MK6 Golf R because it has a timing belt and the old school main seal, at least that fixes two problems. You can get one of those for with less than 100k miles and allegedly not beat to death or crashed for 20k.

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

pedroYUL - Did you ever end up doing this EA211 timing belt?
Tips/How-To's/Parts sources if you'd be willing to share?

 

[pedroYUL]

Not yet, but I do have the parts and can share some info tomorrow.

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Any idea how to know if the engine has ACT (Active Cylinder Technology)?

Seems that if it does, there's some extra special tools required to set the cam's precisely.
If it does not have ACT, it can be done in a more traditional way (pins/locks/etc).

COD/ACT timing belt set up

hi there new to the forum could anybody tell me if any of the diagnostic equipment can be used to set up the cylinder on demand timing belts (COD) as I'm looking to buy the equipment that can do this any help would be much appreciated

forums.ross-tech.com

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Looks like the North American version (CZTA) do NOT have ACT...

Source: Wikipedia - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Volkswagen_Group_petrol_engines#EA211_R3/R4

1.4 TSI[edit]
For 2012, these newly developed generation of modern petrol engines are manufactured at the Škoda Auto plant in Mladá Boleslav.

identificationparts code prefix: 04Edescription1.4 TFSI Green tec engine with 110 kW (140 hp). This engine achieves its maximum torque of 250 Nm at 1,500 to 3,500 rpm.
In North American market it is referred to as CZTA type engine (150 hp). In Chilean market it is referred to as CHPA type engine (140 hp) or CZDA type engine (150 hp).

New lightweight aluminum construction, an integrated (into the head) exhaust manifold, and a toothed-belt drive for its double overhead camshaft valvetrain that incorporates variable intake and exhaust timing. The only aspect to be carried over from the EA111 engine that preceded it is the 82 mm cylinder spacing. The cylinder bore was decreased by 2 mm (to 74.5mm) while the stroke was increased to 80mm, a change which helps compactness, increases torque, and is ideal for adding boost.

DIN-rated motive power & torque outputs, ID codes90 kW (122 PS; 121 bhp) at 5,000 rpm; 200 N⋅m (148 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-4,000 rpm — CMBA, CPVA92 kW (125 PS; 123 bhp) at 5,000 rpm; 200 N⋅m (148 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-4,000 rpm — CZCA, CPVB103 kW (140 PS; 138 bhp) at 5,000 rpm; 250 N⋅m (184 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-4,000 rpm — CHPA, CPTA (CPTA engine is a CHPA engine with automatic #2 and #3 cylinders deactivation system known as ACT - Active Cylinder Technology)110 kW (150 PS; 148 bhp) at 5,000 rpm; 250 N⋅m (184 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-4,000 rpm — CZDA, CZEA, CZTA

 

[pedroYUL]

I believe I got this kit, which is not 100% complete

Timing Belt Kit (A3 Sportback e-tron, Golf, SportWagen, Jetta, 1.4L)

OEM timing belt kit. Please check the part number before ordering.

www.europaparts.com

Then these instructions

Volkswagen Golf Service & Repair Manual - Removing and installing toothed belt, engine codes CHPA, CZDA - Toothed belt drive

www.vwgolf.org

 

[oilhammer]

Those instructions are funny, because the part where they have the water pump belt cover off... they make it seem like it is right out in the open, and it most certainly is not... it's buried under a bunch of tubes and hoses and nonsense. And the water pump itself is in the way.

My opinion of this engine dropped after the first timing belt I did, which I had to do not because it was due, but because the cam phaser bolts backed out and bukkake'd oil all over the inside of the timing cover, and almost derailed the belt.

Then that fragile pesky purge line....

 

[MrCypherr]

The later 1.4s and 1.5s require a electronic timing tool to get the timing set correctly. I tried to just set timing and mark it to see how close I could get it, I was off by 5 degrees even though my markings lined up. Each tooth is 7ish degrees. Their take on doing that was cause then independent shops cant do timing stuff without needing the tool.

 

[pedroYUL]

Well, today I finally started this TB. Everything was going well until...the 13/16 crank bolt, I can't get that sucker out!

I fully charged the 4Ah Ryobi battery, and using the 1/2in medium duty impact, heated the bolt with a propane torch...not enough juice.

I don't have a counter hold tool. Asking my friend with a higher torque Milwaukee to see, but I might have to accept defeat, sadly.

 

[RabbitGTI]

Those instructions are funny, because the part where they have the water pump belt cover off... they make it seem like it is right out in the open, and it most certainly is not... it's buried under a bunch of tubes and hoses and nonsense. And the water pump itself is in the way.

My opinion of this engine dropped after the first timing belt I did, which I had to do not because it was due, but because the cam phaser bolts backed out and bukkake'd oil all over the inside of the timing cover, and almost derailed the belt.

Then that fragile pesky purge line....

LOL, I hate it when one of cars bukkakes anything.

 

[RabbitGTI]

I love my inline five VWs, but when they are euthanized I think I'll buy a ****ing Prius.

 

[RabbitGTI]

Question: It seems like most automakers build grenades instead of engines. Is the RAV 4 lump a piece of crap?

 

[oilhammer]

The 3S-FE in the RAV-4 is a great engine.

pedro, if you do not have the crank pulley counterhold tool T10475, then how were you going to properly install the new torque-to-yield crank bolt going back together? There's a whole pile of SSTs to service that engine's timing belt... if you don't have them, don't attempt this job.