I had my torque converter replaced with a new one about a year ago. While they were in there they replied the brake pack. It wasn't bad but I wanted anything that looked like it would go bad replaced. It wasn't crazy expensive....under half of what you are being quoted. The shop wouldn't give me a diagnosis until they were able to look inside the box. If AAMCO didn't take a look inside, how do they know the whole transmission needs to be rebuilt? If you want to keep the car, get a recommendation for another shop. The shop I used was recommended by an independent VW shop.
Well, if you WERE to look at things financially then you have no choice buy to fix what you have... Why? Well... what car can do what this car can do with the amount of money you would need to sink into it..
However the truth rises to the top when you said you were tired of it...
You answered your own question. I suggest you sell it to someone here who can still appreciate what these wagons can do. I have yet to find one today that can do the same for less $$
I never said I was tired of this one. You might want to re-read what I wrote. I don't drive it anymore because I have to drive a company vehicle now. My daughter drives it. My comment was about why we don't see cars 15-20 years old because people get tired of them. This one is 12 years old. My point was that this is a project that has gone on 12 years and a large expense like this one is what easily can become the last straw. They don't make it to 15-20 years old.
I know folks like to tout the fuel economy on these things, but let's face it, back in 04 when I bought this, diesel was cheaper than regular gas. Now gas is so much cheaper than it used to be that it eats in to the cost per mile that we have all enjoyed for a long time. We also can't forget the repairs and upgrades that got us here as I previously listed. That stuff is not cheap. Technology has caught up with us. Gassers are getting much better mileage than they used to in addition to the reduced gasoline costs. I don't want this to turn into a debate about fuel cost per mile because I know the math problems are out there to support keeping the car. I am just saying it is not as big a discrepancy as it used to be.
Bottom line in this post is I am still wanting to take a shot at fixing the transmission. I appreciate vwztips offer of a valve body but he was not able to locate it. My family will have to continue to share a car for a bit while I pull the valve body this weekend. I am hoping to find something relatively obvious. If I do then I will order the parts, fix it, and motor on like I always have.
I pulled the pan and found some metal chunks. However, they are not steel. They are aluminum. I guess the good news is that there is physical damage somewhere in the transmission that I should be able to locate if I open it up. That might be better than trying to solve some mysterious electronic or valve body problem.
Any thoughts what might be broken that is aluminum?
I haven't pulled the valve body down yet. There was nothing visible so far. I think I will pull the valve body first before pulling whole transmission just to see if there is something obvious.
I was in the same situation a year ago. I couldn't buy a car as nice for 3 grand, so on with the maintenance game. I was able to find a local who used ZF parts from Eriksson and did the rebuild. My 17 year old drives the car now and we'll see how long the rebuild lasts.
If you can do the work yourself, It's a no brainer IMO to fix it. Check out http://www.levelten.com/ for rebuild parts as well as OEM from Eriksson.
Personally I liked to driving characteristics so much of the B5.5 platform that... I'm now driving a 04 Audi S4 M6 no need for a bigger turbo and stick now
I pulled the valve body. I took every piece of it apart and inspected each valve body, valve, spring, etc. the only thing notable was that small chunks and fine particles had been flowing through the valve body. I inspected for aluminum damage on the valve body and found nothing. Everything looked perfect. It was worth taking apart because it needed to be cleaned out regardless. The cooler/radiator will need to be flushed as well as the torque converter before putting anything back together.
With the valve body removed I was hoping I might be able to see damage above in the gear sets but nothing is visible.
Right now I have the luxury of time to work on it. I will pull the transmission and start taking it apart. Cost invested right now is still zero and it will remain zero to tear down the transmission. I may have to make a few tools to disassemble but the Internet has great ideas on how to make compressor rings out of clamps and wood so those are cheap.
I always have the option of stopping and buying a reman unit. I just might learn something to share with the group while I do this. I will do my best to take some pictures of the tear down and write it up.
Once torn down, I will have to measure the cost of a reman vs a rebuild kit and specific part replacement. Thundershorts is calling the D drum as the culprit. Any other predictions?
First pic shows a nice chunk of aluminum in the channel in the bottom left corner. Other pics show lots of small pieces of aluminum. As a result of finding this, I have thoroughly cleaned and inspected the whole valve body. I have not put it back together yet because I intend on replacing the gasket. That will come in whatever kit I decide to order.
Does anyone have a trick to remove the pump? I have the transmission out. I am trying the 2 vice grip method. I can get it to move a little but just can't get it to pop out. I removed the differential and driver side axle flange thinking that would be the only thing that may hang it up. Am I missing something?
I have completely reassembled the transmission at this point. I replaced the A cylinder and installed the overhaul kit. I have been through every piece of this transmission including the valve body. I changed all seals and o-rings. It is as refreshed as it could possibly be. Now, all I have to do is get it back into the car. I hope to get to that this weekend. If for some reason, my repairs did not work, I may be interested in buying yours alderby.
This just got more real for me. At 187,000 miles, I felt the first rev/slip ever in normal driving last week. Have code P0741, torque converter off.
So I guess this starts a clock running, my understanding is the longer a TC is bad, the transmission is at risk too? I won't be doing this job, so maybe should consider choices from just TC replace, go manual!, or whole rebuilt trans (seems excessive if it will last a while longer.) I'm open to suggestions, but I'm going to keep the car, even though Franko mocks my leather front seat, which I have sat in for 11 years, bugger off!
Confidence level definitely increases once you have been through the whole transmission. I was surprised to see how pristine the entire transmission was. Every steel gear and bearing set was perfect. The remaining drums (aluminum) only showed slight etching where the friction discs engage. I would bet those marks are made very early on in life and haven't changed. The bottom line is there are a lot more good parts in there than bad ones.
To remove the transmission, it is just typical metric sockets, Allens, triple squares for the axle bolts, and torx T-55 for the 3 torque converter bolts.
The transmission itself can be completely disassembled with torx bits 27 and 40. I suggest a set of snap ring pliers for the 3 small snap rings that hold the 3 springs and seals. You can probably use a pick if you had to instead.
As far as actual disassembly of the individual drums you will need a press of some sort. I have a shop press, but there are some really good videos on line showing how to make a press from wood and all thread. Really simple, effective, and cheap design. You will only need that if you are actually stripping each piston out. You don't need that to replace frictions and steels, though.
I suggest searching for videos on the 5hp19. There are some good videos out there all shot by the same guy. His transmission is a rear wheel drive version for a BMW but the procedures are mostly the same. The only real difference is that our FWD version uses the 3 seals I mentioned instead of bolts. We need to remove the driver side axle (3 bolts) and slide it out. We also need to pull out the 5 rubber seals that join the valve body to the pump. Once that is done, the pump can be pulled out. The rest of it is pretty much as shown in the videos.
I actually recorded my disassembly for reference so I didn't mess anything up upon re-assembly. His videos are thorough enough so I won't simply post another video showing the same thing.
I will search through the videos to see if there any more still photos worth posting.
I originally set out to find the source of these. Once in there I found a bunch more where the A Cylinder was.
The few items that are different than the videos on the 2WD versions are as follows:
In order to pull the pump, remove the driver side axle flange with 3 torx bolts. (Sorry, no pic of this, but really easy) That moves the shaft out of the way of pulling the pump out.
These 5 seals need to be pulled out in order to pull the pump. They simply pull out by hand.
Once you get down to the D Cylinder you will need to remove a large retaining ring and 3 seals. They don't exist on the 2WD version.
Three seals are removed by first pulling these small snap rings, pullling out the small springs behind them, then the rubber seals need to be "picked" out. If you don't pull the rubber seals out, they will interfere with pulling out the D Cylinder assembly.
Inside the transmission, there is a large retaining ring that must be removed in order to continue disassembly passed the D Cylinder. The 2WD version simply uses 3 bolts instead of the 3 snap rings and retaining ring.
Other than these variations, I would say follow the published videos and record your own disassembly to be sure you put everything back together correctly.
Since the family has been getting along without this car, I have decided to list it for sale. I will be having to drive my company vehicle from now on, so it finally makes sense to sell. I listed it in the for sale section of the forum. For additional pics and description please see the link below. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=459716