If yes what parameters in the ECU need modified and what would a good gasoline to WVO ratio? I could imagine that going this route would be a little easier than converting the WVO to Bio no?
I really don't touch veg oil, this is all engine oil and transmission fluid that I'm messing with, sorry for being rather off topic.
Something I run into doing it my way with minimal fuel thinning, using gasoline, is that the fuel burn is so poor that I find myself gaining a quart or two every thousand miles of crankcase oil.
The smoke isn't as bad as you'd imagine, burning oil at a rate of 40 miles/gal, but it is still a very embarrassing level of smoke when at low load and slow enough that it isn't dispersed. Can't really tell too much at 55+, but I'll shut it off at stop lights.
Point is, this is all percolating past the piston rings. If it were vegetable oil rather than engine oil it'd surely have stuck the rings by now. Others seem to have good luck running veg oil for a long while, it may well just have that much significantly better cetane rating, or they might have better injectors than my big ol' sloppy ones.
The main thing in the ECU is increasing the smoke maps to where it'll idle and run with reasonable power on the poorly burning fuel. Bumping the injection timing maps up a bunch in the lower range seems to help, too.
I've been looking more into getting some 1.9 IDI pistons to try glomming together a tdidi sorta deal, figuring it'll help with fuel burn, but that's a project that's years stalled. Also been thinking on some tiny nozzles from an automatic ALH to see what they do, but again, been thinking about that for years with no real action.