Is there an MK4 oil pump replacement diy writeup?

[Tdijarhead]

Once again it’s time to replace the timing belt on my 05 Golf. I have accumulated 445k miles and I thought as long as I’m doing the belt and the engine has that many miles that it would be a good idea to do some preventative maintenance and “get ahead of the curve” so to speak.

I purchased a Pierburg oil pump kit and all the timing belt bits from idparts and I’m planning on diving in this weekend. It looks like the pump body itself is held on by 3 bolts which seems simple enough. Will I need to remove the front carrier to replace the tensioner and chain?

I have searched for a diy write up on here but can’t seem to find one. Not on the diy list or with a general search. As you can guess I’ve never had to do an oil pump on one of these before, even though I’ve done over a dozen timing belts both BEW and ALH’s.

 

[oilhammer]

Super easy.

After the belt is off, take the front sprocket off (you'll need a counterhold tool, and a new bolt), take the sealing flange off (you'll need a new seal and the installer tool), then the chain and tensioner is right there. I'd replace those, too.

 

[Tdijarhead]

Thanks oilhammer I was hoping it was as easy as it looks. I had to put a new crank seal in several years ago, I can't remember which car and I noticed the oil pump was right there, when I removed that front seal carrier. As these cars age jobs like this will probably become more common.

 

[oilhammer]

And make certain the two oil pan bolts that go into the rear main seal carrier don't get cross threaded. They can be tricky to get to. I put them in last, and I use a long 5mm ball-ended bit to get the started by hand, and finish tightening them down with a 10mm swivel 1/4 drive socket. Also helpful for the one front one near the A/C compressor on the ALHs, too.

 

[PakProtector]

Aaaaannnnnd, there is a cut out in the DMF( at least on my BEW there is) so the rear bolts can come out. On one backing it out hit the flywheel long before it was done unthreading, let alone removeable.

Douglas

 

[Sword_of_the_Spirit]

Oil,

you mentioned that you ideally want to change it at 300k mi? Is that a worst case recommendation?

 

[BobnOH]

The oil pump is hell-for-stout on these cars. Good to 400k, 500k or more. Baring any incidents. I replaced one years ago which had run on freeway with no oil. Still have it for sale, not a thing wrong with it. Twas the bearings giving lack of oil pressure. The pump simply throws oil to the top of the engine, a very crucial component.

 

[Sword_of_the_Spirit]

Oh, I meant the chain. I saw somewhere he and another mentioned 300k mi

 

[oilhammer]

Not so much the oil pump, as the little chain and tensioner that drive it... of course, irony, I just had a drive chain break on one of mine without warning. Luckily, it happened right down the street from my house!

 

[Sword_of_the_Spirit]

Thanks for the reply Bob and Oil. Both interesting evidence and close calls. I can than infer that roundabout 300k mi you’d want to change the chain/tensioner.

 

[Tdijarhead]

I’ve searched but coming up empty and I’ve just never bought a Bentley. Does anyone know the torque specs for the oil pump. Attachment bolts, tensioner bolt etc.

 

[jmodge]

I’ve searched but coming up empty and I’ve just never bought a Bentley. Does anyone know the torque specs for the oil pump. Attachment bolts, tensioner bolt etc.

You can look them up torque specs by thread size, if you know what they are

 

[jmodge]

https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?media/albums/maintenance.13778/ But, since my hands are clean and I'm out here anyway, try this

 

[Tdijarhead]

Perfect, thank you. Tdiclub has a chart of “popular” torque specs but the oil pump does not seem to be on that list.

I planned on doing this last weekend but I didn’t have a front crank seal or new crank bolt. I now have a seal and should have a new bolt by Friday.