IP Pump Tear Down and Seal Replacement, Bench DIY

[KrashDH]

Since I have been upgrading a lot of parts lately on the Golf for power, it was apparent that I was going to need to swap my manual's 10mm pump from an 11mm. A new pump was out of the question for me with the laundry list of other things I have been purchasing for the car, so I had to seek out a used 11mm. That comes with it's own quirks as you don't really know the history or the condition of the pump. It becomes a gamble putting it in the car with new parts, especially since the pump is extremely critical to the system. You don't want something on the verge of letting go and potentially sending shrapnel through your fuel system and costing a lot more money in repairs and parts.

So this is a DIY write-up that will basically cover the steps to correctly bench tear down your 10/11mm pump and check for any internal damage, as well as replace the seals and build it back up correctly. I wouldn't say this is over-the-top hard, but you have to be very thorough with your documentation and understanding how things came out and how they should go back in. I'm a visual person, so it was critical for me to take lots of pictures.

As supplemental material, I highly suggest this link for understanding the internal parts of the pump (it's for an 11mm). I will be referencing this throughout the thread:

0 460 414 987, Fuel distributor injection pump BOSCH VE series, 0460414987

0460414987 Fuel distributor injection pump BOSCH VE series

dieselcatalog.online

You will need most common sockets and tools for any job (deep sockets, shallow, open end wrenches, allen and torx keys, etc) but there are also some "specialty" tools that you will need. I'll try and list the special things below:

• Static dial indicator set made for Audi/VW
• M10 x 1x 45-50mm long fully threaded bolt
• M14 x 1.5 thin jam nuts (2x)
• TDC injection pump pin or drill bit
• Bosch VE injection pump seal kit (through a reputable vendor or Bosch dealer)
• 1 461 038 319 Sealing Plate Gasket
• 1 461 074 328 Sealing Plate Gasket
• 2460283001 Injection Pump Shaft Seal
• Impact or way to counterhold shaft flange for removingshaft nut

First thing is first, you want to clean all of the crud from the outside of the pump the best you can. Wire brushes, degreaser and rags are all needed to go about this. Once you are confident with the cleanliness level, I set up my workstation, which was a clean piece of cardboard on top of my workbench. I started by taking pictures all around the pump so I had a reference of what bolts go where in case I forgot. I'll only include a couple photos, but take as many as you need to feel comfortable that you have all your angles covered.

When you're satisfied, it's time to make your marks on your positioner housing so that you can get it back to it's original (and hopefully functional) spot. Note that you may have to hammer mod it to get it perfect, using VCDS. But getting as close to possible to where it was is key.

You want to make your marks on 2 different faces so all your degrees of freedom are captured and it will be more accurate replacement:

Once that is complete, the next step that I'm going to explain is the way Bosch specifies that you "set" the plunger height. There have been various differences in opinion if this is needed when re-building, but this is the way that I wanted to do it to be absolutely sure (since I don't rebuild these pumps daily) that it was put back together correctly. So some up front measurements need to be taken.

This takes a specific set of tools. You need a dial indicator with an extension, as well as the correct adapter that replaces the bleeder screw on the head. Here's the ebay link to the kit:

7pcs Diesel Fuel Injection Pump Static Adjusting Timing Indicator Gauge Tools | eBay

Feature : For VAG TDI diesel 7pcs tool as shown consisting of. Suitable for almost all diesel and turbo diesel with distributor injection pump. suitable for almost all diesel and turbo diesel with distributor injection pump.

www.ebay.com

Here's the process for checking. You will need a socket for the big nut on the shaft that holds the flange on. Install your dial indicator assembly (adapter, indicator with extension) into the bleed screw. You want to give yourself enough play with the dial indicator that it can make a couple of full rotations each directions.

This next part is kind of tricky to explain but I'll do my best.

Pin the flange at TDC like you do for a timing belt adjustment. Get ahold of your socket and ratchet and counterhold the nut so the shaft can't spin. Now pull the pin, still holding everything in place. Now slowly let the shaft turn counter-clockwise while keeping pressure so it can't just fully back off. You'll feel the compression:

While you're doing this, you will be watching the dial indicator needle. As you let the shaft spin CCW, you'll see the dial indicator bottom out...Ie it will reach the lowest point before it starts to "increase" and go back the direction it was dropping from. This lowest point is your zero, so find that and adjust the bezel of the indicator to mark "0" at that point:

With wrench still in hand, now turn it back CW and pin the flange at TDC. There will be a little bit of wiggle room, so try to find center of that window so the pin slides in and out easily. At this point, look at your dial indicator.

Here you can see my plunger lift was about .0865". Factory from Bosch has this set to .085" nominal +/- a tolerance which I couldn't find:

So, this was just verification that the pump was set correctly, but remember that .085" value for plunger lift, because that's necessary (per Bosch) to set the plunger lift at TDC when rebuilding.

Now we can start taking apart the pump.

 

[KrashDH]

You can start removing all the external hard lines if you choose to do that.

Break free and remove the head fittings. There will be a small copper washer behind each one (in the head) that seals. Make sure to grab those with a pick:

Then you want to break free the head plug. This takes a special triangular type socket. You can buy these in kits or you can make them. I won't go into detail on how to DIY, but it's easy and there's a bunch of info on the forum about making them. I did choose to make all these:

You can crack the electromagnet free as well:

At this point I moved to the shaft side and break the large flange nut free. I use 2 old bolts to counter hold (screwed part way in the flange) with a screwdriver, then broke it free with an impact. Once it's free, you can use a standard 3-jaw puller to pop the flange off the shaft. There is one key thing here that you should notice and as you disassemble/re-assemble. Look at the position of the keyway in the shaft. Now, this keyway is not used for the flange, but it's orientation is critical. If you look just outside of the shaft seal (orange) at about the 10:00 position, you'll see a marking on the face of the housing. This key SHOULD be aligned center with that mark. All of the disassembly and re-assembly should be done with the shaft in this position to ensure everything is clocked correctly for a frame of reference:

Now, break free all of the head bolts and mounting bracket bolts, but if you have the pump in the horizontal position like I show, do not remove them yet:

Before you remove the QA assy, you'll need to remove the solenoid below the head since it's connected to the cable that will come off with the QA adjuster. Once the 2 bolts are removed, it will take some prying to break free. I suggest prying evenly with 2 flat blade screwdrivers, one on each side. If you don't, then it will want to fight you and bind as you try and remove it.

Now you can remove the positioner/QA/Cap while it's in the horizontal position, before removing the head. If you remove the head first, loose parts could fall out. You want the pump vertical for that. But I will show you what the adjuster sits in so you kind of know what you're attacking. Remember one of the bolts has the special triangular head:

What I'm showing here you would actually see down through the top, not through the head side like I show here, but what I'm showing you is a plunger assy that sits in the hydraulic head. That adjuster sits down in the plunger shaft collar in a small bore. You will see the bore from the top at this point once you remove the QA assembly/housing:

 

[KrashDH]

Ok, next thing you want to do is turn the pump vertically so that the head is facing up. Remove all of the head bolts noting where they go because it can get confusing. Once all the bolts are removed, you can un-seat the head. It will resist from the head o ring, but a bit of prying and some more wiggle should pop it out. You want to be careful though, because there are 2 springs that seat against the hydraulic head, there are shims, as well as a shaft which rides inside of each spring. These could potentially all be loose. So remove the springs, shafts, and shims if they stay in the pump. It's possible that they will come out in the head as well, so just be prepared, and look at the exploded diagram for reference I posted in the first post.

This is what you will see now, except if you removed the QA assembly/cap, nothing will be sticking down into the bore in the plunger assembly:

The plunger body should easily slide out now:

Be very careful when you remove the plunger. There is a shim that sits in the base of the plunger. It may be "stuck" to the plunger, or it may fall onto the cam plate, but don't lose this piece! Here you can see the small shim sitting on the cam plate, but it's off center:

See that other little button at about the 2:00 position on the cam plate? That just an feature on the cam plate that allows the plunger assembly to clock correctly, so just note it's orientation.

Now once you remove the cam plate (at this point I was using a extension magnet to draw parts up and out of the bore evenly) you can see the cross disk and roller assembly (housing, rollers, pins, shims). Remove that disk.

Pay very close attention how everything sits in this assembly. you can also see it in the exploded diagram linked on the first page for reference. Note how it's all clocked as well when you remove it. Notice in-between the 2 lower rollers, there's a black cover? It's hard to see. But this is a spring "C" clip that is actually a pin keeper. We'll get to that in a minute.

Now it's time to removing the timing piston cover. Consult the exploded diagram, there are lots of small parts and this cap is under spring pressure. So just remove it slowly:

Here's the cap removed, as well as the spring and shims. There is one small shim on each end of the spring. Be sure to remove them. The spring pushes up against the timing piston:

The cover opposite of the cap can also be removed at this point:

What you might notice now if you're a tinkerer like myself, is that you can push that piston side to side in its bore (it should not be binding up. If it is, you might have some issues you have to deal with after its out) and that there is a few degrees of swing. The roller assembly will all move with it as a unit.

Remember that black keeper clip I mentioned above, you need to pop that off with a pick. Cover the bore of the piston housing when you do this with a rag or something because it will want to go flying. Once it's off, you will see the pin that rides in the roller assy, which is also in a bore inside of the piston. This is how they are timed. If you look at 6:00 in the pin, you'll see another button-head. That's the head of a smaller pin which we need to remove. You can grab it and pull straight out with a set of needle nose pliers:

 

[KrashDH]

Slide the large pin up into the center of the roller assembly between the shaft "legs". There is a spring in the center you might have to depress a little bit for the pin to full slide up:

At this point you can now remove the timing piston from the bore. Note how it's oriented when you pull it out. You'll see where the pin sits in the bore of the piston. Put that aside. I was able to use my extendable magnet and grab the roller assembly. Be very careful when you pull it out, if you aren't careful you'll lose all the pieces. You can put it back together easily though if need be, just remember how the shims, rollers, and pins all sit in the plate. Now the support ring can be seen which is held in by 2x torx head screws:

The shaft will just now slide up through the housing bore (towards you). Take caution as there is a disk underneath the shaft flange, as well as there is a loose woodruff key in the shaft!:

Take that disk out, loosen and remove the torx head screws, then you can grab the support ring with your extendable magnet. Once again, note the orientation of the component before you remove it:

What you're looking at is the supply pump. The outer ring (note the hole orientations) and the inner plate with the keys/vanes. If everything is in good shape, it's likely that when you remove these, they will fall out. They are a very tight tolerance but they should move freely in the inner plate. You can see on those little keys towards the inside, that they have a curve. Note this for re-installation.

You can also see that the inner plate has a keyway cut out, approximately at 2:00. The shaft woodruff key actually slides into that and times the shaft with the supply pump, so that is critical on re-assembly:

You can see all the keys loose after I pulled out the inner part of the pump plate:

Remove those and you just have the outer part of the pump in place. Note it's orientation. You can remove this. Once it's removed, you have removed all of the guts of your IP pump:

You can flip over the housing now and pry the shaft seal out. You can get a flathead (make sure to protect the surface with something so you don't scratch the bore) under the lip on the inside and pry it out little by little:

There was a slight groove in the shaft from the seal riding on there. I hit it with some 800, 1000, 1200, and then polished with some 2k. The groove was still there and noticeable, but was better than before. I called DFIS in Oregon and chatted with them about this, you can set the seal proud or even install it a bit deeper into the bore to avoid that mark if you want. Necessity to do this really depends on the severity of the groove:

I installed the new seal a bit deeper than what it was previously (it was flush or a tad proud of the housing surface) as you can see here. I just used a standard socket (drive side on seal surface) with a dead blow and tapped it in evenly:

 

[KrashDH]

Now would be the time to inspect all of your internal parts for wear, damage, or anything else needed to clean them up or surface rust or anything else that might be plaguing them. This pump's internals were in really good shape. I really only emery-clothed a few things, light sanding. Nothing was compromised, no metal was in anything. Here's how I lined everything up so I could keep track of how things came apart:

You should be able to open it up/zoom in a new page for a more detailed photo of all of the piece parts.

Before you put everything back together, remove all of your old seals off of things that you can. Match them to the seals that came with your new OEM Bosch kit, so you knows what goes where. There are some "extra" seals that are not used on this pump as well. The only thing that threw me for a loop was the head plug OEM seal that came out was brown/red and the new one was black, but they were the same time. You can also take inventory of all of the copper sealing washers and match them up to components that you removed. Some of the o-rings/seals go on hardware that's on the outside of the housing, so you'll have to remove that.

Once you've got everything all good, time to clean clean clean!! Ensure all of the pump parts are dirt free so we can start the install again.

When I reassembled, all the metal parts got a light coat of Ashless TC-W3 oil. Same stuff used in my fuel for pump lubrication. So as you see some light blue liquid here and there on re-build, that's what it is.

Install the outer ring in approximately the same orientation as it came out:

Install the inner plate of the pump into the center, aligning the woodruff slot about in the same orientation. Install all of the small keys in their appropriate spots. I used a pair of needle nose pliers for that.

Install the support ring back in place:

Lock it back down with the torx screws. you don't need to go caveman on these, they're small:

The next part is a bit tricky. Clean the shaft really well. It's time for the shaft (don't forget the sliding disk/washer that sits on the support ring first to be installed. You need that woodruff key in it's slot in the shaft. To keep it in place, a dab of dielectric grease or similar works really well. Then you have to drop it in from the top, through the seal and find the alignment to that inner supply pump plate keyway. It's a bit of a finicky process, but it will slide down in there once it's all set. Now you have the pump timed with the shaft:

Take a peek around to the front of the shaft. Look at the keyway in the shaft, make sure it's aligned with your mark so you can get the re-assembly in about the same orientation as it was taken apart, for the ease of reviewing your original photos. If it's slightly off, that's ok. just spin it so it's centered on the marking on the housing:

You can install the roller plate assembly back in as well. Don't push the pin back down through the hole into the piston bore yet since we haven't installed the piston:

Install the keeper plate back into it's location with a NEW gasket:

Install the piston back into it's bore the same orientation it came out. It needs to be clocked so it will receive the pin from the roller plate:

This might take a bit of wiggling all the components, but eventually you can slide the roller pin down into the timing piston:

 

[KrashDH]

Install the small button head pin back into location. You can see it in place in this photo:

Install the black c-clip keeper over the button head pin. Then you can install the cross-disk back into location, same orientation as it came out:

With everything now connected between the timing piston and the roller plate assy, you can install the timing piston spring/shims/cover back into their spot, with a NEW gasket. Ensure there's 1 shim between the spring and the piston and the other between the housing cap and the spring. Refer to the exploded diagram. Don't be alarmed at this point if anything shifts a little, that's ok. We will set the pump up close to the end:

Install the cam plate back into its location, with the "button"/ boss where it was when it came out. It should drop into the empty locations of the cross-disk:

It's time for the plunger assy to go back in its spot. Remember that small shim! I used a bit of dielectric grease on it to keep it in place on the backside of the plunger shaft while I dropped it back down. Also this photo shows the clocking. That boss down on the cam plate? That's going to align with the slot at the end of the plunger shaft that you can just see in the photo:

You can add the plunger springs to the assembly now. I chose to leave the guide shafts out at this step and install them with the head later, because I could use a bit of dielectric grease to keep them in place in the pump head:

Now you want to R&R the gaskets for the QA housing and upper cap. you can also see the head in the background with it's new gasket and the two plunger guide rods:

Install the QA adjuster/housing and ensure that the end of the ball is sitting in the bore on the plunger shaft collar. This is how it should look before you install the head. Note, at this time you don't need to align your marks perfect nor torque anything down:

With a little bit of 2SO on the head o-ring and the guide rods securely in place with some dielectric, carefully ensure that the rods are centered in the springs on the plunger assy, then line up the bores, and work the head into position. You might not get it flush with your hands, that's gok:

 

[KrashDH]

This would be a good point to install the solenoid under the pump head, back into a place, with a new o-ring from the kit.

Hopefully you marked all of your bolts' locations or kept them organize. Install everything lightly into the head, ensure all wiring and mounting brackets are in the correct locations. Then you can torque down the head and mounting bracket. Remember, the sealing is done by the o-ring, not the torque on the bolts, so don't go overkill, they aren't that large of a diameter:

You can install the electromagnet/fuel cutoff:

Grab your new fuel connector copper sealing washers and drop them into their location:

Install the fuel fittings in place. Now when I use crush washers, I'll initially run them down and give them a bit of torque, then back them off, then re-torque them a bit further then I originally did. Ensures that they basically "bed" into the surfaces they are sealing:

You can also now install the head plug, with a new o ring from your kit. this was the one that might be a different color than what came out. So long as it's the same size it's ok.

You can now flip the pump back horizontal. I chose to replace the fuel temp sensor while I had it apart for good measure:

After that, install the cover with a new gasket and align your housing marks and "torque" the cap/QA housing bolts. Once again, they don't need a lot. Gutentight.

Ok. We are ready for the adjustment of the pump, according to how Bosch does it.

First of all, remove the bolt on the side of the housing of the pump, towards the shaft side. It's got an allen key head on it. This is basically a service port. It was designed, as I understand, for this operation. You need to source a M10 x 1.0 x 50mm (apprx) bolt but it should be fully threaded. Take your bolt and run it down till you feel it hit the shaft. Then back it off a couple of threads so you're not making contact with it. You aren't going to hurt the shaft, even if you do, it's not in an area that matters.

Ensure that your shaft keyway is in line/centered with the marking on the housing once again:

Install your dial indicator setup into into the head plug the same way you did previously (ensure you have a couple of full rotations of the indicator in each direction. Install two M14 x 1.5 thin jam nuts on the end of the shaft because you're going to need to adjust it, kind of the same way we did before. Have a ratchet and socket on the head of your bolt that is in the service port that you'll just to lock the shaft in place. It just needs to be ready. your setup will now look like this:

.

If you're looking at the shaft side of the pump, rotate your jam nuts CCW until the needle gets to the lowest point then starts coming back towards where it was. Find that low point while rotating and turn the bezel of your indicator to "0" on your dial.

Now rotate the shaft CW (looking towards the shaft seal) and when it gets to .085", Lock your service port bolt down onto the shaft. You'll have to tighten this pretty good so it can't slip:

This is where you need about 6 different hands. First off, break your jam nuts free of the shaft, and clean the shaft well (no grease or oil). Keep an eye on your indicator, you don't want that moving. Then install the flange onto the shaft, and lock it at TDC with your pin from your TB kit or the correct sized drill bit. You want the TDC pin to slide in and out easily. You then want to install the shaft washer and nut that keeps the flange on it. You're looking for about 55 ft-lb here torque on this thing. Make sure your shaft service bolt is tight.

Start torqueing down the shaft nut, while watching the indicator. If it starts to move, you have to loosen the shaft service bolt, get back to your .085" on the indicator and do it again. Once the torque wrench clicks, check your indicator, ensure that the timing pin still slides in and out easy (you don't want it to be binding on the slot on the flange). This is where I was at after torqueing:

 

[KrashDH]

You can now remove all the tooling used that set your plunger lift.

Re-install your bleeder screw back into place:

Install a new o-ring to your OEM service port bolt/plug and install that. Any fittings or bolts you removed that had sealing washers, install those back how they were with new copper washers. Rotate the pump through it's compression strokes a couple rotations to ensure that nothing is binding up.

You now have a re-built pump that should last you many years to come:

 

[KrashDH]

As with any of my tech write-ups, please let me know if I missed anything critical to this process, or if I accidentally doubled up on photos somewhere (it's hard after this many photos and staring at a screen for this long to catch everything).

Hopefully I will be getting the pump on the car before I have to go back to work after my time off, so I have until after the new year, but the weather isn't exactly cooperating right now (nor is shipping companies getting me needed parts). I will be doing this pump and injectors at the same time.

Hopefully this takes away the stigma behind the difficulty of doing anything with these pumps and can help the DIY'ers in the future. Just a methodology and some time is all.

 

[Nero Morg]

Dang, always fun to see the internals of something, still way above my comfort level to service! Nice write up! Wish it could be stickied.

 

[fatmobile]

Yeh, nice writeup.
I use vasoline,.. it's basically thick diesel.
Once upon a time I put the mainshaft seal on before I slide the shaft back in.
When I put the mainshaft in
I was paying attention to lining up the key in the shaft with the pump.
I turned the shaft as it was going through the seal and shaved a piece off the lip.

Isn't there an FK or JK measurement that determines what shim get's used?

 

[KrashDH]

From what I understand, there is a shim thickness that can vary, dependent on the pump. So long as your shim isn't damaged, lost, or worn, and as long as the appropriate plunger lift can be achieved, you don't have to worry about sourcing a different shim than what came out.

Yeah the Vaseline trick would work as well, just didn't have any on hand. I was pretty light handed with the dielectric. There should be enough pressure through the pump the move it out of the way and it shouldn't hurt any components.

Yeah I was very careful (least I thought so) when inserting the shaft through the seal and aligning the woodruff key. I tried to use as little pressure as possible to get it through and didn't twist the shaft. Guess I'll know pretty quickly if the seal is compromised.

Prior to this I had been searching online for a week for the service manual for this pump to no avail. It must be heavily guarded in some vault. Found a lot of documentation on the pump, just nothing to do with removal or installation instructions. So I kind of logically tore it down And put it back together.

 

[Zak99b5]

Nice job.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Awesome write up! I was thinking to rebuild the 10mm pump I pulled off my golf, just for fun. I resealed my 11mm pump before I installed it, and that was fun! Only did the top seals and head seal. If I would have had this write up, i wouldn't have had the pain I had with the shim, as through many unfortunate events, I ended up breaking the one from my 11mm. Thankfully the 10mm had the same thickness shim, so I robbed it. The only place I could find another shim the same thickness was from prothe.
Yes, I admit, I did buy one of his, though it was a used one. (Please don't kill this desperate guy! I didn't buy anything else from him!)

 

[csstevej]

Very , very well written and the pictures helped. It was concise and to the point.

I have an old 10 MM pump I’ve been kicking around to be taken apart to play with..... I feel more comfortable about doing this now.

Thank you for your time and diligence in doing this .

I also recommend that this be a sticky.

 

[burn_your_money]

Nice write up. Couple of points, if I may.

Never touch the plunger with dry fingers. The oils on your hands can etch the plunger. First dip your fingers in oil, fuel, gloves etc.

I personally lay a piece of electrical tape over the keyway when inserting the main shaft. At the shop we just covered it in grease.

Build a counter hold tool when tightening the timing hub. Also, back the locking bolt off before tightening fully. Nip the nut up with the locks in place, then remove them, check timing, fully tighten and then recheck timing. I’ve seen a fair few of those housings broken.

Once you have the vane pump put together, use a small screwdriver to rotate the pump. It’s rare but sometimes they do lock up when tightening those 2 screws. If it does lock up, just loosen the screws and try again

 

[KrashDH]

Nice write up. Couple of points, if I may.

Never touch the plunger with dry fingers. The oils on your hands can etch the plunger. First dip your fingers in oil, fuel, gloves etc.

I personally lay a piece of electrical tape over the keyway when inserting the main shaft. At the shop we just covered it in grease.

Build a counter hold tool when tightening the timing hub. Also, back the locking bolt off before tightening fully. Nip the nut up with the locks in place, then remove them, check timing, fully tighten and then recheck timing. I’ve seen a fair few of those housings broken.

Once you have the vane pump put together, use a small screwdriver to rotate the pump. It’s rare but sometimes they do lock up when tightening those 2 screws. If it does lock up, just loosen the screws and try again

Good points, I've used the electrical tape trick before. Forgot about it for this, but the keyway is on the taper, so it shouldn't hit the seal if you are careful.

Can you elaborate on how the oil on ones fingers can "etch" the metal on the plunger? Is this rare material? Never heard about this phnomenon either in the automotive or aero industry. It's just steel. Either way, there was a light coating of 2SO on all the parts (and my hands) when I reassembled.

Also, the way I locked the shaft when tightening is supposedly right out of Bosch's FSM for this pump. They specify a bolt to hold the shaft while torqueing the hub. It's not going to damage any part of the shaft that matters. That being said, I agree, if you can make yourself a counter hold tool, that's ideal, but it's not necessary. If I would have had access to making myself one, I would have.

I agree about the vane pump plate checking it after you torque down the screws. I didn't move it with a screwdriver but it was moving under the plate ok, so I let it be. That outer ring on the vane pump is basically the standoff to allow the center plate to move freely. But it should be checked.

All good ideas for people in the future whichever way they decide to go, thanks for the input!

 

[burn_your_money]

Good points, I've used the electrical tape trick before. Forgot about it for this, but the keyway is on the taper, so it shouldn't hit the seal if you are careful.

Can you elaborate on how the oil on ones fingers can "etch" the metal on the plunger? Is this rare material? Never heard about this phnomenon either in the automotive or aero industry. It's just steel. Either way, there was a light coating of 2SO on all the parts (and my hands) when I reassembled.

Also, the way I locked the shaft when tightening is supposedly right out of Bosch's FSM for this pump. They specify a bolt to hold the shaft while torqueing the hub. It's not going to damage any part of the shaft that matters. That being said, I agree, if you can make yourself a counter hold tool, that's ideal, but it's not necessary. If I would have had access to making myself one, I would have.

I agree about the vane pump plate checking it after you torque down the screws. I didn't move it with a screwdriver but it was moving under the plate ok, so I let it be. That outer ring on the vane pump is basically the standoff to allow the center plate to move freely. But it should be checked.

All good ideas for people in the future whichever way they decide to go, thanks for the input!

I've had a keyway cut the seal before, that's why I mentioned it.

I can not elaborate on the etching unfortunately. When I worked in the fuel shop, this is what I was taught and I never questioned it. Maybe it's just a rumor. Thinking about it more, it might be leaving moisture on the part which will then cause rust. I think I remember seeing fingerprint rust on old stock. EDIT - decided to look it up - https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/rust-corrosion-contamination-fingerprints-jeff-short

That's interesting that they torque the hub with the locking tool in place. I haven't read the manual so you likely are correct. You are correct that leaving the bolt tight against the shaft won't damage an important part of the shaft, but it could put a burr on the shaft that will then damage the bushing the next time the pump is rebuild. Odds are though, that shaft is so hard that you'll damage the bolt before hurting the shaft.

I've had a couple of the vane pumps lock up on reassembly, that's why I mentioned checking them. You can install the vane pump complete if you flip the pump over and use the driveshaft to install the vane pump.

 

[KrashDH]

I've had a keyway cut the seal before, that's why I mentioned it.

I can not elaborate on the etching unfortunately. When I worked in the fuel shop, this is what I was taught and I never questioned it. Maybe it's just a rumor. Thinking about it more, it might be leaving moisture on the part which will then cause rust. I think I remember seeing fingerprint rust on old stock. EDIT - decided to look it up - https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/rust-corrosion-contamination-fingerprints-jeff-short

That's interesting that they torque the hub with the locking tool in place. I haven't read the manual so you likely are correct. You are correct that leaving the bolt tight against the shaft won't damage an important part of the shaft, but it could put a burr on the shaft that will then damage the bushing the next time the pump is rebuild. Odds are though, that shaft is so hard that you'll damage the bolt before hurting the shaft.

I've had a couple of the vane pumps lock up on reassembly, that's why I mentioned checking them. You can install the vane pump complete if you flip the pump over and use the driveshaft to install the vane pump.

All good points here for sure.
Also I like the trick about installing the vane pump complete, I didn't think about that.

The shaft is hardened so you're right, a bolt likely won't damaged it, but could potentially raise a burr. Would just have to be cognizant on the rebuild. I definitely was looking for things like that when I was examining the internals.

Since this was the single time I'll probably do this, yeah I was not apparent of all the potential pitfalls which you brought up and are good to acknowledge.

When I looked al this up before proceeding, there was not much info out there. I scrubbed this forum and a few others. It's good to have this type of insight you've provided to help with the "other" ways to do things, that if I had to do it again, I'd likely follow. The more information the better and hopefully it can help anyone who decides to tackle this project!

 

[fatmobile]

Glad you posted this.
I've torn apart quite a few 1.6 pumps and they are more complicated.
I thought the TDI pump would be worse so glad to see it all done.

Did ya know that if you put the ring around the vane pump on the wrong way
the pump will pump backwards?
The hole will still be at the top and the bolt holes will still line up.
But the fat side will be on the right if it's wrong.
See the distance between the mounting holes and the edge of the ring?

 

[KrashDH]

Glad you posted this.
I've torn apart quite a few 1.6 pumps and they are more complicated.
I thought the TDI pump would be worse so glad to see it all done.

Did ya know that if you put the ring around the vane pump on the wrong way
the pump will pump backwards?
The hole will still be at the top and the bolt holes will still line up.
But the fat side will be on the right if it's wrong.
See the distance between the mounting holes and the edge of the ring?

I couldn't tell you if it would pump backwards but I do know for certain you do not want to put that ring in the wrong way. The orientation I have it in is the way it came out (I took a picture of it coming out). It looks a bit different because I cleaned up a small amount of surface rust with emery cloth.

I found a .pdf online that was posted in another thread I started about this pump, which has it's functionality (based on internal parts), but I didn't dig too deep into that

 

[fatmobile]

No I'm telling you that if you flip that ring
right to left
it will pump fuel backwards.
Out the input of the pump.
I'm not the only one who has screwed that up and had to dig back down to the bottom of the pump to fix it.
So it should be mentioned.
The back side is stained where it rides against the aluminum
so it's easy to see what side goes down.

I did look back through your great pictures to see if you screwed it up ha.

On my first pump I pulled the iron head with the pump sitting sideways,..
and all the guts fell out.

 

[KrashDH]

No I'm telling you that if you flip that ring
right to left
it will pump fuel backwards.
Out the input of the pump.
I'm not the only one who has screwed that up and had to dig back down to the bottom of the pump to fix it.
So it should be mentioned.
The back side is stained where it rides against the aluminum
so it's easy to see what side goes down.

I did look back through your great pictures to see if you screwed it up ha.

On my first pump I pulled the iron head with the pump sitting sideways,..
and all the guts fell out.

Ohh, ok I got ya I didn't read it as a statement at first. Well glad I don't have it in backwards then! Would make an exciting first fire up...

So if you look carefully at my photos haha, I pulled the head horizontally as well. I got lucky though and nothing fell out, but as soon as I could I flipped it vertical.

But I did try to write the article in a way that mentioned to flip it vertical before you pull the head. Learned that while doing it but caught my mistake.

 

[KrashDH]

Alright, all my mods are in the car and I wanted to update this.

Happy to report that the IP rebuild was a success. No leaks, (I suppose when I start it up overnight that will tell the truth) but it fires up fast and all seems to be well.

Only thing right now is my IQ is at 10 (@ the 32768 nominal value). I'm not going to hammer mod it quite yet until I have some tuning going on. The whole IQ thing is still kind of foreign to me, so I'm not quite sure where this car is going to want to be at. Even at 10, nothing really seems to be off at this point.

Even with my old, crappy tune (hardly a tune at all) boy it is a different car. Although the old one was for a 2.5 bar map (OEM) and now I have a 3 bar in there, so will have to get everything sorted out.

Because I have a lift pump, I was able to prime the pump via just turning on the key a couple dozen times. I verified I was getting fuel through the return line by popping it off and sure enough, out came fuel. As good measure, I cracked the injectors and verified that I was getting fuel squirting out of the nuts when bumping the starter. Once all that was good, it only stumbled once then fired up pretty quick.

This was quite the "first time" adventure but I'd say that it wasn't a very hard job at all with the right tools. Just takes some patience as well as some detailed documentation to keep yourself in check with how everything comes apart and goes back together.

 

[csstevej]

Very nicely done !

 

[Keystoner16]

This is great.

 

[Rrusse11]

Wow! Way above my pay grade, impressive work and great write up. Congratulations sir!

 

[pkhoury]

Nice writeup. Sadly, my work area is literally my driveway, and I don't have a vise, so I sadly won't be doing this anytime soon. I did pick up a nice Swiss made dial indicator, so I'm one step closed to doing this someday...

 

[BobnOH]

Awesome!! I've always considered pumps and turbos a bit outside the normal DIY mechanics skill level. But with the price of those parts, this will get well used. Might be handy to consolidate into a PDF, will be easier to edit, link, read on a phone, etc.
Again- Great Work!

 

[KrashDH]

Nice writeup. Sadly, my work area is literally my driveway, and I don't have a vise, so I sadly won't be doing this anytime soon. I did pick up a nice Swiss made dial indicator, so I'm one step closed to doing this someday...

Thank you. Yeah I've had to do a lot of driveway work on the Cummins since that thing won't fit halfway in my garage. It's always an adventure with the elements when that happens. The vise is kind of critical for the tear down, need to somehow be able to get a grip on the thing.

Awesome!! I've always considered pumps and turbos a bit outside the normal DIY mechanics skill level. But with the price of those parts, this will get well used. Might be handy to consolidate into a PDF, will be easier to edit, link, read on a phone, etc.
Again- Great Work!

Seeing the price of a rebuild from DFIS was really what made me go for this. I know I have the skills, it was more just I hadn't done it before. DFIS does great work and if you have the funds (I did, but I could spend them elsewhere if I tackled this project) they are the best money can buy. I actually ordered a couple of odds and ends for the pump from them as well since they can get all that Bosch stuff.

I was definitely intimidated of the project at first, then found some documentation of the internals and thought "this is all just mechanical". So long as things came out and went back in the same way, everything would be good. Once I started getting in there, it was cake. Just have to take precautions and remove things in order, document, and refer to your documentation to put them back in. Honestly setting the plunger height at the end when you have to put the sprocket flange back on was the easy part.

Which is why I documented this so thoroughly because unless you do this for a living, next time a person has to do it, write-ups like this are handy. If you can do one of these successfully, a turbo should be no problem.

I agree that a .pdf would be nice. I'm sure the forum admin (@VW Derf ?) could talk to the right people that could make a pdf out of this thread. Currently I don't have more time to invest into that though, it's on to other projects that need to be taken care of.