Iowa TDI rookie

[bandmenter]

I stated that I am a TDI rookie however not a rookie when it comes to VW. I grew up with air-cooled VW's in the drive and first VW was a 1975 German Passat. Had an 85 Jetta diesel. I just have no experience with TDI 's.
I presently own an 81 Rabbit diesel that is in need of a transplant. Was considering an AAZ when I was reading a thread of upgrading to TDI. Just looking for advice in that direction. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Bill

 

[3L3M3NT]

Welcome to TDIClub! I don't know the answer to your question, but you could try posting your question in the Other VW Group TD(I)s sub forum. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?forums/other-vw-group-td-i-s.41/

Hopefully someone in that sub forum can answer your question. Otherwise if you have Facebook you could see if there's a group on there that could answer your question.

Good luck and hope you can get the answers you're looking for.

 

[bandmenter]

Well response time was slow, life gets busy. I was able to find a 1.6l TD out of a 1986 Jetta. No idea the kind of milage, no matter, going to rebuild anyway, no since putting a high mileage engine in something I want to keep the rest of my days. The main reason I was wanting the Turbo upgrade was to drive to higher elevations and I knew the normally aspirated would not get it done. That little motor does not have enough torque to get out of its own way. Thanks for replying, I was feeling like the forum was dead.
Bill

 

[3L3M3NT]

I'm honestly not on here that much myself, but stop in every so often to see what's going on. When I saw your post I figured I'd help as best I could, since I'm not very familiar with the IDI or TD engines.
That makes sense that you would wanna put a turbo on the 1.6L TD engine you picked up if you're driving in higher elevations to help offset the power loss you get as you climb higher in altitude.

I'm glad I could help out a little bit. Plus it seems like once someone replies to a post, others join the conversation.

Another sub-forum to try would be this one---> https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?forums/vw-mkiii-a3-b4-tdis.49/

 

[fatmobile]

I gave him my number and we've been talking.
Helping him figure out a path.
His '81 overheated.
The MK2 TD engine broke a belt.

I think he should just rebuild the head and change the I shaft bearings
before installing the TD engine in the '81.
He wants to rebuild the bottom end too.

I don't think he has tried shopping for parts yet.
Want's to get stuff from the parts place but I warned him not to get important parts
like pistons there because of the poor quality.
Also trying to get him away from the stock turbo and go VNT-15 on the 1.6TD.

 

[gearheadgrrrl]

To be honest, it's been three decades since VW sold indirect injection diesels here, so I wouldn't mess with one. Better to start with at least an early TDI, and preferably a diesel gate era TDI.

 

[GlowBugTDI]

Its a hobby for most people. Like snowmobiles....most of them old ones aren't worth rebuilding but people still dump hundreds into a sled worth 350$.
I'd love to get a mk2 vw truck just for driving in a time before my own. I love simplicity. Loved my 92 s10 to death....litterly killed it (fixed it until the clutch broke). Sold to someone who was going to 454 swap it

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I do know that 1.6L NA internals don't take kindly to boost. You need a turbo long block.

 

[gearheadgrrrl]

Its a hobby for most people. Like snowmobiles....most of them old ones aren't worth rebuilding but people still dump hundreds into a sled worth 350$.
I'd love to get a mk2 vw truck just for driving in a time before my own. I love simplicity. Loved my 92 s10 to death....litterly killed it (fixed it until the clutch broke). Sold to someone who was going to 454 swap it

Thanks for 'fessin' up that you really don't save any money with these old beaters, and if you guys are having fun with them that's just fine. And if you want the king of old school VW trucks, get one of these old KW or Pete trucks with the VW cab: https://www.vanderhaags.com/detailview.php?part=25080654 I drove one at work once in a while, was weird to drive to work in my Golf 2 diesel, then hop in to a big truck with the same switches, etc. and similar dashboard layout... But at the first corner you were reminded you weren't driving a Golf!

 

[GlowBugTDI]

Thanks for 'fessin' up that you really don't save any money with these old beaters, and if you guys are having fun with them that's just fine. And if you want the king of old school VW trucks, get one of these old KW or Pete trucks with the VW cab: https://www.vanderhaags.com/detailview.php?part=25080654 I drove one at work once in a while, was weird to drive to work in my Golf 2 diesel, then hop in to a big truck with the same switches, etc. and similar dashboard layout... But at the first corner you were reminded you weren't driving a Golf!

Lol, well depends how you do it. But your right cars aren't an investment, or at least rarely, even new cars. Your actually spending more to drive a new car, its just more reliable potentially and has more modern features. All depends on what you want. I have under 2500$ in to my car minus fluids, and its still cheaper then any newer car. Not to mention just as reliable. I just dont have an aux cord, but who cares tapes are better anyway.

 

[GlowBugTDI]

Thats an odd looking truck. Cool tho.

 

[fatmobile]

I do know that 1.6L NA internals don't take kindly to boost. You need a turbo long block.

I don't think that's true.
I've had several NA blocks that did fine with boost.
Even an old 1.5 that got boosted up past 35 several times when learning how to control the VNT-15 turbo.
What parts do you think are too weak for boost?

He does have a TD block though.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Head gasket and rods. I don't have direct experience, however.

 

[fatmobile]

Those parts are the same TD or NA.
The TD does have piston oil squirters that can help to keep the pistons cooler.
But I haven't seen pistons that looked real heat damaged.
Sometimes the area near the prechamber outlet looks toasty, on TDs too.

 

[gearheadgrrrl]

Old TDI engines like the ALH are cheap, why even mess with the old 1.6 DI?

 

[fatmobile]

Because the old Rabbits are easier to swap a 1.6 into.
Because the 1.6 doesn't need a computer.
I love the M-TDI in my MK2 but an MTDI pump isn't easy/cheap to find and haven't found much info on motor mounts for an ALH in a MK1.

Because new 1.6 injector nozzles are easy to replace, set the breaking pressure on and much cheaper than TDI ones.
Because the timing belt is cheaper to replace.
Basically, easier and cheaper to install and maintain in an old Rabbit or Mk2.
...and personally because I have a stockpile of parts for them that needs to get used up, ha.
and I just picked up a set of second oversize KS pistons for $219 on clearance.

 

[gearheadgrrrl]

And just where in the midwestern rust belt do you find a MK1 still capable of supporting an engine? I'm just north of you in Minnesota and I haven't seen a MK3 in a while, never mind earlier VWs.

 

[fatmobile]

They are hard to find, that's one reason I started working on MK4s.
I have a friend with a factory TD Rabbit body that someone needs to do something with.
I can hammer metal and weld.
Along with a pickup in a box project.
Everything there, just needs to be assembled.
So I have some MK1 projects lined up.

I have 2 running Rabbits, the 4-door will stay 1.6 with a VNT-15.
The 2-door might go M-TDI AHU
the MK2 has gone M-TDI ALH and won't go back.
I mostly work on my own, then drive them until I get them working great and all the noises out and sell em.
Weirdly the last couple people who bought Rabbits from me are in their 20s.

Seems like there are always people with MK1 and MK2 diesels that need work.
I've had them come from 100 miles in each direction.
But I only work on one or 2 cars a year that belong to someone else.

I just bought a $100 stash of engine/parts cores. Almost 2 and a quarter TDIs minus turbos and pumps.
and 2, 1.6s. One of the 1.6s is almost built and going in a guys pickup.

 

[gearheadgrrrl]

All the MK1 has going of it is that it's light, especially the German built ones. The price of that thin 'n' cheap steel is that they rusted like crazy, my German built '79 already had a hole in the floor when I sold it in '86. MK2s got a clear plastic undercoat on the rocker panels that helped some, mine's been retired behind the garage since 2001 and while the rocker panels have held up, the floor in between is pretty much gone. MK3s lasted no longer, it wasn't until VW went to galvanized steel body panels with the MK4 that they got a handle on rust out, and even then VW had to replace a lot of fenders and more under the 12 year rust out warranty. So now the bodies are fairly solid, and we have to deal with rusted out suspension parts and such failing like happened on my then 18 year old MK4.

Being retired from working with cars and trucks most of my life, experience has taught me that they're designed to last about 10 years if that, go beyond that and you have to completely rebuild the vehicle or else you'll be making frequent repairs. Past 20 years and you're hunting for parts to rebuild stuff for a second and third time, and all the repairs and rebuilding eat up so much of your time that you may as well turn pro, make a decent living as a tech, and buy new or newer cars before they start to fall apart.

 

[fatmobile]

Right about the thin metal on the Mk1s.
My 4-door needed major repair when I got it.
I used it to learn how to weld.
Built a tiltisserie and fixed the floor pans, rockers, wheel wells.
And coated it with epoxy.
And you are right again that 10 years later it was rotted out again.
So I made16 guage stainless steel floor pans
and am doing the same with the rockers.
A yearly spray of SP-400 has saved much of it.
I do drive it in the winter.
I always use stainless for my patches now.

2 of my friends have outgrown their Rabbits and are going to sell them soon.
One in Cali and one locally.

 

[gearheadgrrrl]

If you can weld stainless you've got some valuable skills that are wasted on old mass market cars!

 

[fatmobile]

I just use an old 110 mig with stainless wire and stargon.
The hard part is hand bending and hammering things to fit.
The curves of a wheel well are tough to reproduce with a hammer.

 

[gearheadgrrrl]

I'm impressed with your dedication, I just buy a new TDI every decade or so.

 

[hskrdu]

I would commend you on using your skills to keep old VWs going! I'm sorry to see ALHs and BEWs pop up in the salvage yards, and I hope you'll be saving some of those in a decade.

 

[fatmobile]

Got a call today. From a guy who wanted me to work on his pickup.
He bought Bill's pickup in a box project.
He posted an ad for a parts pickup and Travis saw the other project and bought it. Bill gave him my new number
I told him I'm too busy working on a guys pickup and my projects.
And if I had time to work on that truck I would have bought it, ha.
Maybe in a few months I can tune it for him but he's a truck mechanic
I know Travis from when he used to race Rabbits at the circle dirt track.
As fuel prices go up these are getting more popular.

I once bought a GTI from a friend of Travis.
He was possibly the only Rabbit owner (there weren't a lot of us, kind of a small club) who knew where the barn was where it was parked.
The tail lights, center console and other stuff was missing when I went to pick it up.
He brought a Rabbit over to get worked on.
When he saw the GTI in my yard he was a bit surprised to see a cabby center console and tail lights on it.
I think he knows I know.