CK Petty
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2000
- Location
- Indian Rocks Beach, Florida USA
Instructions for Two of Sky Pup\'s Mods
Here's how to do two of Sky Pup's modifications on your A4 TDI in one pleasant afternoon.
TOOLS YOU'LL NEED--
Pliers
Hammer
Stanley Utility Knife
Small Pocket Screwdriver with 1/8" Flat Blade
#1 Phillips Screwdriver
1/4" Socket Handle
T-15 Tamper-Resistant Star Socket for 1/4" Driver (Discount Auto has these...Performance Tool, Part No. W1360. $1.99) The difference between a standard tork (or star socket) and a tamper-resistant one is that the tamper-resistant has a hole in the center of it. Standard star sockets will not fit a tamper-resistant fastener.
Small Hand Saw
Tube of KY Jelly (drug store)
Black Magic Marker
PARTS YOU'LL NEED--
BMC or K&N Filter
5/8" Diameter X 36" Wood Dowel (Home Depot..$.89) You will only need 1" of it.
Purolator B13146M Beather Filter (at Discount Auto & others..$3.06)
DOING THE MAF SCREEN REMOVAL
Locate the black air box on the driver's side of the car behind the battery case. You will see a black, Shop-Vac type hose going from the air box to the engine. In between the Shop-Vac hose and the airbox is a piece of plastic tubing with electrical wires running to it. This piece of tubing houses the MAF sensor -- a delicate and expensive item so be careful!
1) Disconnect the wires from the MAF sensor by pulling back on the little clip on the top of the connector. Just pull back on it with your figernail in the direction of the windshield.
2) Using a pair of pliers, squeeze together the clamp that holds the hose to the MAF sensor tube. At the same time you are holding the clamp open with the pliers, slide the Shop-Vac hose off the tube.
3) Now unscrew the two Phillips-head screws on the windshield-side of the airbox. These screws are captive so don't worry about losing them. When you have undone the screws, lift up the cover on the airbox. Carefully removed the accordion-style air filter inside.
4) The top of the airbox is still tethered by a small black hose. Do not remove this hose. Just try to turn the top of the airbox around so you can see the two Phillips-head screws that hold the MAF sensor tube to the airbox top. Unscrew the two Phillips-head screws and pull the MAF sensor tube out of the airbox top.
5) Put the T-15 tamper-resistant socket on a screwdriver-type socket handle. Using this tool, unscrew the two fasteners that hold the MAF sensor in the black plastic tube. Carefully pull out the MAF sensor and put it aside.
6) If you look in the tube, you will see two screens. One is silver metallic and looks like a tea strainer. The second screen is black plastic with a honeycomb pattern. We want to remove both screens from the tube. The easiest way to remove them is to take a flat screwdriver and a hammer and pound them out. Do not hammer them into the tube! This will take a few minutes. Be patient and do not damage the tube itself.
7) Now re-install the MAF sensor in the tube. Start by coating the "O" ring on the sensor with KY jelly so it will slide in easily. Make sure the shape of the sensor matches the base on the tube itself to insure you have installed the sensor correctly. Use your socket-handle with the T-15 star socket to refasten the two fasteners.
8) Re-attach the MAF tube to the airbox. Use KY jelly to coat the end of the tube that goes into the airbox. Push the tube into place and then attach with the two Phillips-head screws.
9) Now install your new BMC or K&N filter in the base of the airbox. Make sure it fits snugly. Slip the airbox top into the slots along the front side of the airbox base and then re-fasten the two captive Phillips-head screws on the other side.
10) Re-attach the hose to the MAF sensor tube, using pliers to keep the hose clamp open while you pull the hose onto the sensor tube.
11) This is the final step. Attach the electrical connector to the MAF sensor. Make sure that the electrical connector latch is on top. If it is not, you have installed the MAF sensor into the tube upside down.
MAKING THE PVC BYPASS MODIFICATION--
1) Remove the upper engine cover. Begin by removing the oil dip stick. Then, using a small pocket screwdriver, pry off the three round plastic disks. Using a 10-mm socket, remove the nuts you will find under the plastic covers.
2) With the engine cover removed, you will see a black disk-shaped object on top of the engine with a black plastic elbow running from it to the Shop-Vac type hose (the air intake hose) that goes from the airbox to the engine. Look closely at the plastic elbow running from the disk to the air intake hose. Near where the elbow joins the the air intake hose, you will see some electrical wires and on the elbow itself you will see an "accordion" section with four ridges.
3) Follow these instructions carefully! You are going to cut the elbow into two pieces. I want to make sure you cut it in the right place. Look at the four ridges. Look at the last ridge that is closest to the front of the car. Add another 5/8" from this point (moving further toward the front of the car) and make a mark on the elbow. This is where you are going to cut the elbow. Use the Stanley utility knife and make a clean, perpendicular cut.
4) Now unloosen the hose clamp that attaches the other half of the elbow to the black disk on the engine. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, you can carefully pry the elbow off the disk. Fit the Purolator B13146M beather filter to the cut end of this piece of the elbow. Use KY jelly to slide it on. If the end of the elbow does not attach to the breather filter perpendicularly, remove the filter and trim the end of the elbow with your Stanley utility knife so it does and reassemble. When you're finished, put this assembly aside for the moment.
5) Take your wooden dowel and cut a 1" piece from one end. You will use this piece to plug the end of the elbow that is still attached to the big air intake hose. Test fit the wooden plug. You will see it is too big. Trim the end of the dowel that you cut so that the finished end will show, using your Stanley utility knife. When you have the plug nicely trimmed, start it in the end of the elbow that is still attached to the big air intake care. Use a hammer to tap the plug until it is flush with the end of the elbow. Blacken the end of the wood plug with your Magic Marker.
6) Now take the stainless steel hose clamp and place it over the bell section of the piece of the elbow that has the Purolator breather filter at the other end. You are going to attach this assembly to the black disk on the engine. Lubricate the nipple of the disk with KY jelly and slide the bell section of the elbow onto the nipple.
7) Turn the elbow until the Purolator filter is aimed toward the front of the car. Tighten the hose clamp to secure the elbow to the disk.
8) Replace the upper engine cover. Don't forget to put back the oil dip stick.
My sincere thanks to Sky Pup, Mickey, Howard Z and D Parnell.
Here's how to do two of Sky Pup's modifications on your A4 TDI in one pleasant afternoon.
TOOLS YOU'LL NEED--
Pliers
Hammer
Stanley Utility Knife
Small Pocket Screwdriver with 1/8" Flat Blade
#1 Phillips Screwdriver
1/4" Socket Handle
T-15 Tamper-Resistant Star Socket for 1/4" Driver (Discount Auto has these...Performance Tool, Part No. W1360. $1.99) The difference between a standard tork (or star socket) and a tamper-resistant one is that the tamper-resistant has a hole in the center of it. Standard star sockets will not fit a tamper-resistant fastener.
Small Hand Saw
Tube of KY Jelly (drug store)
Black Magic Marker
PARTS YOU'LL NEED--
BMC or K&N Filter
5/8" Diameter X 36" Wood Dowel (Home Depot..$.89) You will only need 1" of it.
Purolator B13146M Beather Filter (at Discount Auto & others..$3.06)
DOING THE MAF SCREEN REMOVAL
Locate the black air box on the driver's side of the car behind the battery case. You will see a black, Shop-Vac type hose going from the air box to the engine. In between the Shop-Vac hose and the airbox is a piece of plastic tubing with electrical wires running to it. This piece of tubing houses the MAF sensor -- a delicate and expensive item so be careful!
1) Disconnect the wires from the MAF sensor by pulling back on the little clip on the top of the connector. Just pull back on it with your figernail in the direction of the windshield.
2) Using a pair of pliers, squeeze together the clamp that holds the hose to the MAF sensor tube. At the same time you are holding the clamp open with the pliers, slide the Shop-Vac hose off the tube.
3) Now unscrew the two Phillips-head screws on the windshield-side of the airbox. These screws are captive so don't worry about losing them. When you have undone the screws, lift up the cover on the airbox. Carefully removed the accordion-style air filter inside.
4) The top of the airbox is still tethered by a small black hose. Do not remove this hose. Just try to turn the top of the airbox around so you can see the two Phillips-head screws that hold the MAF sensor tube to the airbox top. Unscrew the two Phillips-head screws and pull the MAF sensor tube out of the airbox top.
5) Put the T-15 tamper-resistant socket on a screwdriver-type socket handle. Using this tool, unscrew the two fasteners that hold the MAF sensor in the black plastic tube. Carefully pull out the MAF sensor and put it aside.
6) If you look in the tube, you will see two screens. One is silver metallic and looks like a tea strainer. The second screen is black plastic with a honeycomb pattern. We want to remove both screens from the tube. The easiest way to remove them is to take a flat screwdriver and a hammer and pound them out. Do not hammer them into the tube! This will take a few minutes. Be patient and do not damage the tube itself.
7) Now re-install the MAF sensor in the tube. Start by coating the "O" ring on the sensor with KY jelly so it will slide in easily. Make sure the shape of the sensor matches the base on the tube itself to insure you have installed the sensor correctly. Use your socket-handle with the T-15 star socket to refasten the two fasteners.
8) Re-attach the MAF tube to the airbox. Use KY jelly to coat the end of the tube that goes into the airbox. Push the tube into place and then attach with the two Phillips-head screws.
9) Now install your new BMC or K&N filter in the base of the airbox. Make sure it fits snugly. Slip the airbox top into the slots along the front side of the airbox base and then re-fasten the two captive Phillips-head screws on the other side.
10) Re-attach the hose to the MAF sensor tube, using pliers to keep the hose clamp open while you pull the hose onto the sensor tube.
11) This is the final step. Attach the electrical connector to the MAF sensor. Make sure that the electrical connector latch is on top. If it is not, you have installed the MAF sensor into the tube upside down.
MAKING THE PVC BYPASS MODIFICATION--
1) Remove the upper engine cover. Begin by removing the oil dip stick. Then, using a small pocket screwdriver, pry off the three round plastic disks. Using a 10-mm socket, remove the nuts you will find under the plastic covers.
2) With the engine cover removed, you will see a black disk-shaped object on top of the engine with a black plastic elbow running from it to the Shop-Vac type hose (the air intake hose) that goes from the airbox to the engine. Look closely at the plastic elbow running from the disk to the air intake hose. Near where the elbow joins the the air intake hose, you will see some electrical wires and on the elbow itself you will see an "accordion" section with four ridges.
3) Follow these instructions carefully! You are going to cut the elbow into two pieces. I want to make sure you cut it in the right place. Look at the four ridges. Look at the last ridge that is closest to the front of the car. Add another 5/8" from this point (moving further toward the front of the car) and make a mark on the elbow. This is where you are going to cut the elbow. Use the Stanley utility knife and make a clean, perpendicular cut.
4) Now unloosen the hose clamp that attaches the other half of the elbow to the black disk on the engine. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, you can carefully pry the elbow off the disk. Fit the Purolator B13146M beather filter to the cut end of this piece of the elbow. Use KY jelly to slide it on. If the end of the elbow does not attach to the breather filter perpendicularly, remove the filter and trim the end of the elbow with your Stanley utility knife so it does and reassemble. When you're finished, put this assembly aside for the moment.
5) Take your wooden dowel and cut a 1" piece from one end. You will use this piece to plug the end of the elbow that is still attached to the big air intake hose. Test fit the wooden plug. You will see it is too big. Trim the end of the dowel that you cut so that the finished end will show, using your Stanley utility knife. When you have the plug nicely trimmed, start it in the end of the elbow that is still attached to the big air intake care. Use a hammer to tap the plug until it is flush with the end of the elbow. Blacken the end of the wood plug with your Magic Marker.
6) Now take the stainless steel hose clamp and place it over the bell section of the piece of the elbow that has the Purolator breather filter at the other end. You are going to attach this assembly to the black disk on the engine. Lubricate the nipple of the disk with KY jelly and slide the bell section of the elbow onto the nipple.
7) Turn the elbow until the Purolator filter is aimed toward the front of the car. Tighten the hose clamp to secure the elbow to the disk.
8) Replace the upper engine cover. Don't forget to put back the oil dip stick.
My sincere thanks to Sky Pup, Mickey, Howard Z and D Parnell.
