Injection pump repaired?

[AndyBees]

Andy,
I built an IV and connected to IP pump. Runs great and have not had to re-prime the pump Also, runs quite. So, now we know its not the pump. Next, I am going to by pass the electric pump.
IV

Dang, that is awesome.
Yes, an IV will certainly help clear-up questions about the IP.
I keep my IV ready hanging on the back wall of my little garage. I've since added small ball valves and plugs for the lines when not in use.

Run some Diesel Fuel additive thru it and maybe a tad of transmission fluid.

 

[superhl]

I found the problem. After installing the fuel tank, I filled the tank with a 2 gallon container of diesel fuel that I purchased. I thought that would be enough to get it running and get me to the station for a fill up. Obvious it was not. The straw was barely in the fuel and that was were the air was coming from. I add two more gallons and no issue. I do have an issue with fuel sending unit not registering with gauge correct. With the 4 gallons of fuel it was showing full. When I filled the tank to full, it shows it is empty. It there a way to get OEM gauge to work. Maybe a resistor or will I need to purchase a new gauge?



Here are the specification for the Isuzu 88-92 TANK UNIT 17 OHMS +/- 2 OHMS FULL
120 +/- 6 OHMS EMPTY

New Tank I just purchased
0-90 Ohm fuel sender.

 

[03Golfer]

Adding 20 ohms in line with your sender would put you pretty close... odd that it doesn't read at all though. Is your tank grounded nicely? Is the sender insulated or grounded? Might need it's own ground wire if the gasket is insulating it from the tank.


Edit: just realized it looks like your sender is probably 90 ohms full and thus the inverse of what is required. What design is it, can it be flipped?

I would delete that upper post because I thought it was just a double post, ignoring the second one. But there's more info in the second post.

 

[superhl]

After I filler

Adding 20 ohms in line with your sender would put you pretty close... odd that it doesn't read at all though. Is your tank grounded nicely? Is the sender insulated or grounded? Might need it's own ground wire if the gasket is insulating it from the tank.


Edit: just realized it looks like your sender is probably 90 ohms full and thus the inverse of what is required. What design is it, can it be flipped?

I would delete that upper post because I thought it was just a double post, ignoring the second one. But there's more info in the second post.

Technical Details

Manufacturer	‎labwork
Brand	‎Labwork
Item Weight	‎17.56 pounds
Package Dimensions	‎31.9 x 14.6 x 12.7 inches
Exterior	‎Aluminum
Manufacturer Part Number	‎Does not apply

 

[03Golfer]

OK, when you remove the sender, can it be flipped so that the float moves the opposite direction? Would require disassembly and possibly modification. Or the manufacturer might offer one that is the inverse already.

 

[superhl]

OK, when you remove the sender, can it be flipped so that the float moves the opposite direction? Would require disassembly and possibly modification. Or the manufacturer might offer one that is the inverse already.

I will give a try and let you know. Do you still think that I need to put a resistor on the line?

 

[03Golfer]

The gauge might not like seeing 0 ohms, could burn out. I think it makes sense to put a resistor in line, it should get you pretty close to the specified value for a more accurate reading.

 

[superhl]

I added 2 gallons to the new tank thinking is would run on that until I could fill it up. That is why it was getting air. Added tw0 more gallons and problem went a way.

Does anyone know where I can get a Bosch crankshaft sensor? This engine came out of a 2002 new beetle 1.9TDI. I replaced the crankshaft sensor a couple of years ago but did not last long. I purchased from autozone but was not Bosch. When I plug in the vehicle specs, it show everything but a bosch

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Does anyone know where I can get a Bosch crankshaft sensor?

I don't think Bosch makes these anymore. We stock Febi-Bilstein and Facet, and I don't see Bosch available on any of our supplier sites. I do see OEM for just under $100, and that might be Bosch.

 

[superhl]

Are they as good as Bosch? Dang you think these things would be bullet proof. Once they go out, you need a wrecker. I was yesterday, I made it back home but that afternoon, I tried to start and no start. Dead in the water!

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

They are pretty bulletproof but they don't last forever. The one in that engine may be 21 years old. I've only had one fail on the 12 TDIs I've owned.

 

[superhl]

I have another issue, it is running hotter than normal. Looking inside the rad, it appears the water is not moving. The top rad hose is hot and tight, the bottom is cool. The temp gauge is displaying 210-215. Water pump has about 28,000 miles on it. I replaced the thermostat since that is a simple fix. I feel no hot air coming from the heater? Pump issue? If the heater is bad or not circulating , will that cause it to overheat?

 

[superhl]

Removed the connection from the fishbowl and water is flowing so that elminates the pump being bad.

 

[03Golfer]

Is your rad plugged up?

 

[superhl]

It shouldn't be. It is only two years old. When I recently had IP pump rebuilt, I removed radiator to get to the timing belt. Maybe its the gauge

 

[superhl]

I been busy I not had time to troubleshoot overheating issue. Completed an head gasket leak test. Negative! I noticed water flowing in the expansion bowl but sometimes stopped. Top radiator hose hot, bottom cold. Was not sure the gauge was working correctly, so I purchased a scan gauge. Scan gauge showed engine cooler than the temp gauge. So I purchased a cheap temp gauge and show same temp reading as previous gauge,190 at idle but go over 200 when driving. The water pump has about 30,000 miles on it so I replaced water pump and waiting for ford silicone gasket maker to arrive ( for oil leak on valve cover gasket) then try another test tomorrow. Any other suggestions. Frank said if all else fails send ip pump back. Engine runs find so how would a pump cause overheating issues?