firehawk618
Veteran Member
Hi. I'm back after a couple year hiatus from TDI's.
Prior I had an 03' Golf, M5.
Picked up a 2006 Jetta with the 5 speed. White with black / charcoal? vinyl interior.
It's got 220k miles. When I bought it I managed to get the car lot down a bunch on the price because it ran like ass. Horrible vibration at idle, noisy as hell when idling and the vibration correlated to RPM. I convinced them it needed a cam.
First thing I did was pull the valve cover. To my surprise the cam has minimal wear. I figured with 220k I might as well change the motor mounts. Perhaps they were bad. I did the low hanging fruit by changing the left and right mounts. Made it substantially better but still not right.
After a lot of thought I decided it had to be the DMF. If I'm going to pull the trans I might as well drop the sub frame and do the dog bone / pressed in mounts.
Picked up a LUK DMF setup from IDPARTS at a great price.
Dropped the sub frame + trans the other evening. The flywheel was toast. It had spun a few inches and I had to torch out the hub to get access to the crank bolts as DMF will do quite often when failed.
Got the new clutch in and pressed in those mounts. Vibration GONE!
Smooth as butter. Very happy now.
Next day I knocked out the T-Belt. Yes yes I know all about the various theories as to using the lock tools etc etc. With the ALH I see the lock tools being very useful however with the BRM I am not convinced if one is careful and knowledgeable about what they're doing.
Marked it, counted it out, put it on. Spun it a few full revolutions by hand and checked the tension again. Perfect.
Slap it all back together, plug in VCDS and check the torsion value. Prior to doing the belt I had it adjusted to 0. After the belt it was 2. Old belt was definitely stretched a tad and I had previously adjusted the torsion value and this would explain the 2 with the new belt. A couple adjustments later and it's back to 0 again.
Prior to doing all this I decided I had to have a highline cluster. I picked up a used one from a wrecker and spent the better part of TWO WEEKS off and on trying to get the new one to adapt to my car. After a few emails to various cluster / IMMO guru's they had convinced me it was impossible without very expensive tools and I could send it to them so they could do it on the bench directly clamped on the EEPROM or whatever they do.
I'm never one to take no for an answer so I persisted on. I was able to FINALLY get the IMMO to copy from old low line cluster to high line cluster. Boom fires right up, no immo active message and no problem coding it. Whooppee. Even got the SKC from both and the odometer corrected back to my true miles.
Next was the CCM and CECM. Picked up a few highline ones as all modules in my car are low line. I was able to find a 2005.5 5 cylinder at the local wrecker that had not been touched yet. It had all highline modules and the MFSW! Got the CECM, MFSW, Rain sensor, auto rear view mirror, homelink visor, several power lock buttons, couple red/clear lenses for the lights at the bottom of the door, lots of plug ends cut off for the pins etc for $16 out the door! Damn I hit them on a good day.
Long story short. Car ran like crap. Bad DMF. Fixed.
Low line car now 80% upgraded to highline.
Seems to average about 45mpg hand calculated so far. 50/50 city / highway. Impressive. I was under the impression the BRM would get a bit lower than my old ALH did. Seems to be about equal so far.
Prior I had an 03' Golf, M5.
Picked up a 2006 Jetta with the 5 speed. White with black / charcoal? vinyl interior.
It's got 220k miles. When I bought it I managed to get the car lot down a bunch on the price because it ran like ass. Horrible vibration at idle, noisy as hell when idling and the vibration correlated to RPM. I convinced them it needed a cam.
First thing I did was pull the valve cover. To my surprise the cam has minimal wear. I figured with 220k I might as well change the motor mounts. Perhaps they were bad. I did the low hanging fruit by changing the left and right mounts. Made it substantially better but still not right.
After a lot of thought I decided it had to be the DMF. If I'm going to pull the trans I might as well drop the sub frame and do the dog bone / pressed in mounts.
Picked up a LUK DMF setup from IDPARTS at a great price.
Dropped the sub frame + trans the other evening. The flywheel was toast. It had spun a few inches and I had to torch out the hub to get access to the crank bolts as DMF will do quite often when failed.
Got the new clutch in and pressed in those mounts. Vibration GONE!
Smooth as butter. Very happy now.
Next day I knocked out the T-Belt. Yes yes I know all about the various theories as to using the lock tools etc etc. With the ALH I see the lock tools being very useful however with the BRM I am not convinced if one is careful and knowledgeable about what they're doing.
Marked it, counted it out, put it on. Spun it a few full revolutions by hand and checked the tension again. Perfect.
Slap it all back together, plug in VCDS and check the torsion value. Prior to doing the belt I had it adjusted to 0. After the belt it was 2. Old belt was definitely stretched a tad and I had previously adjusted the torsion value and this would explain the 2 with the new belt. A couple adjustments later and it's back to 0 again.
Prior to doing all this I decided I had to have a highline cluster. I picked up a used one from a wrecker and spent the better part of TWO WEEKS off and on trying to get the new one to adapt to my car. After a few emails to various cluster / IMMO guru's they had convinced me it was impossible without very expensive tools and I could send it to them so they could do it on the bench directly clamped on the EEPROM or whatever they do.
I'm never one to take no for an answer so I persisted on. I was able to FINALLY get the IMMO to copy from old low line cluster to high line cluster. Boom fires right up, no immo active message and no problem coding it. Whooppee. Even got the SKC from both and the odometer corrected back to my true miles.
Next was the CCM and CECM. Picked up a few highline ones as all modules in my car are low line. I was able to find a 2005.5 5 cylinder at the local wrecker that had not been touched yet. It had all highline modules and the MFSW! Got the CECM, MFSW, Rain sensor, auto rear view mirror, homelink visor, several power lock buttons, couple red/clear lenses for the lights at the bottom of the door, lots of plug ends cut off for the pins etc for $16 out the door! Damn I hit them on a good day.
Long story short. Car ran like crap. Bad DMF. Fixed.
Low line car now 80% upgraded to highline.
Seems to average about 45mpg hand calculated so far. 50/50 city / highway. Impressive. I was under the impression the BRM would get a bit lower than my old ALH did. Seems to be about equal so far.