Ignition sticks - 2012 sportwagon

34Shoes

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2013
Location
Kent City, Michigan
TDI
1996 Passat - 410K, 2000 Jetta - 250K, 2000 Jetta - 310K, 2002 Jetta wagon - 220K, 2001 Ford E350 - 7.3 with 455K
Wife's car - 2012 TDI Sportwagon

1st, she started having a problem turning the key to shut off the engine. she would be able to wiggle it until it would turn off. Eventually that no longer worked and my wife was unable to turn off the car.

I found a suggestion on the forum to tap the end of the key with a block of wood as it is turned off. That has worked for a couple months. Now we have to tap the key multiple times to kind of break it loose to turn to start the car and again while trying to turn it off.

My wife is being very patient, but I drove the car and it keeps getting worse and I don't want her stuck somewhere. It's time to have a real fix to the problem.

VW dealer says they can fix for $650.

Has anyone had this problem and solved it?
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Are you kidding? I do one of those a month. You need a new housing. Sometimes I have to order a new cylinder.
 

34Shoes

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2013
Location
Kent City, Michigan
TDI
1996 Passat - 410K, 2000 Jetta - 250K, 2000 Jetta - 310K, 2002 Jetta wagon - 220K, 2001 Ford E350 - 7.3 with 455K
Is there a do it yourself thread?

Thanks. I've changed a simple ignition switch on an old A3, but don't know what I'm getting into with this one.

Is there a instruction thread that will apply to our 2012 sportwagon problem?
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
As you can see, I do a lot of these:



It is only hard if the key is STUCK in them. If you can still get your key in and out, that makes it much easier, faster, and less expensive. Because you *should* be able to swap the cylinder over to the new housing.

If you cannot get the key/cylinder out, then that gets ordered VIN specific and it takes a week or so to get.

I do so many, I went to Fastenal and bought a giant bag of M8 Allen head screws to replace the ignorant breakaway bolts that hold the housing to the steering column. That is the worst part. Those need to be chiseled loose. The NCS cars are easier, since they are so much simpler, there is no Steering Column module. But on the A5s, you have to content with removing that too, which can be tricky because the one tab is a bit goofy to get at.

I do not have any pics, sorry. I am sure an appropriate shop manual will have all of this information, but basically:

Remove airbag

Remove steering wheel (if the car has any buttons on the wheel, there will be a harness that along with the airbag will have to be unplugged...some buttons are on the bag itself, some are on the wheel)

Note that the wheels need to be faced straight ahead when the wheel comes off, AND the steering angle sensor must stay oriented straight up while doing this job!

Remove the upper column cover

Remove the lower column cover

Then, depending on model, remove the steering angle sensor, steering module, stalk switches, and the electrical connector to the transponder ring, etc.

Chisel the breakaway bolts loose, once they start to move they will unscrew easily. This can be difficult to do, and I have had some that were SO STUBBORN that I had to take the whole column out and put it on the bench. Also have to take care not to break the windshield swinging the hammer!

Once the bolts are out, the whole housing just slides up and off. If it is stuck in a way that the key cannot be turned at all, and the steering lock pawl is engage, you have to cut more stuff, but usually I can weasel them out.

Then you use a little rod to disengage the cylinder's lock tab inside and slide it out of the housing.

Then you slide it into the new housing, but it has to be done a very specific way or the new housing will lock up and you will ruin it. They come in the "ON" position, so you have to orient the key cylinder to that before sliding it in.

Then put it all back together.

FWIW, the last one I did (I just looked it up) was $521 out the door WITH a new cylinder, but withOUT any new keys. So a dealer charging $650 is probably about right. It is about a 50/50 split P/L.
 
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dmp

Active member
Joined
Jan 18, 2015
Location
Toronto
TDI
15 Golf, 13 Golf (for sale)
If you can't get the cylinder out you can always cut the housing and gut it (once removed) and then you will be able to turn the cylinder and remove it for reuse.



A die grinder and 5 mins of patience (max) makes quick work of these if you can get it in a vise.



Note: make sure you know how long the cylinder is and cut behind it!
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
vw at its finest.
ignitions switches seem to be a week spot on most vw. the euro Van my boss has is a total PITA, he broke the clock spring, dam thing is $350 just for it. rookie mistake on his part. his fix was well over $1,000 to me, i had to go get him 1.5 hours away and hot wire the van for him. THEN do the work, then do it again because the clock spring broke from him messing with it.
 
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