halfast3
Veteran Member
Lots of aftermarket options on seat heaters. We had them installed on our '15 CX-5 Touring for the dealers cost, $495 IIRC. List was $795. The Portland area installer was Coach Automotive. Very professional installation.
If you are considering buyback which cars are you looking at as replacements?
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Tornado TDI
Veteran Member
I took out a 2017 GTI (performance package) with 6MT this weekend and it was a blast.Today I picked up a 2017 gti sport (has lighting and performance package) w/6mt. Before fees and taxes it was right around 26k. Out the door price was 29k even.
I also tested the dsg, but that didn't stir my soul the way the manual did.
I also drove a 2017 Golf R with DSG.
Between those 2 cars I'd take the GTI with manual over the R with DSG anyday.
An R with 6MT would be another thing.
They are also asking $51000 (before taxes) for an R with DSG up here.
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bennybmn
Veteran Member
That's a good point. I actually asked the salesman at the dealer about getting XM installed. He said they do it but charge a lot, and gave me the name and number of the guy who does it for them, so that was nice.
If you want a '16 it's very slim Pickens out there. I think the sport trim of the gti has a great balance of features/performance/price.
I will miss the fogs, but I can always upgrade to them later on down the road. I think I'll miss them more for looks than functionality.
What the what?!I took out a 2017 GTI (performance package) with 6MT this weekend and it was a blast.
I also drove a 2017 Golf R with DSG.
Between those 2 cars I'd take the GTI with manual over the R with DSG anyday.
An R with 6MT would be another thing.
They are also asking $51000 (before taxes) for an R with DSG up here.
Yeah the R is nice, but it ain't that good. Though I was tempted to play ball with the price of a local dealer that had a used mk7 for $36k. In the end I thought a gti with the sport trim was the best bang for the buck.
The gti with performance package is a great balance. Only thing I'm giving up is mpg, but really not that much.
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Tornado TDI
Veteran Member
That $51000 includes $300 for nitrogen in the tires.
I'd ask them to take the nitrogen out and put in ordinary air.
It also included $4000-$5000 "additional dealer profit".
I could get a 2017 Audi S3, a 2017 Audi A4 quattro or a Jaguar XE AWD diesel for the same money.
They were offering an additional $1000 incentive for people trading in a TDI.
kjclow
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
- TDI
- 2010 JSW TDI silver and black. 2017 Ram Ecodiesel dark red with brown and beige interior.
I beg to differ. In the JSW and Golf, you could get the diesel on all trim levels. With or without manuals. They added a few "goodies" on the diesel compared to the gasser to help you fell better about the engine up charge. On my JSW, the only option I went for was the dsg. IIRC, the sticker was somewhere around $26k US.
STLTDI
Veteran Member
Yep. I was able to talk the sales manager down $4k off the msrp of the sport model I picked up.
Conrad -JSW
Veteran Member
'Ordinary' air is ~78% nitrogen so maybe they'll reduce that $300 to $234 after the swap?That $51000 includes $300 for nitrogen in the tires.
I'd ask them to take the nitrogen out and put in ordinary air.
It also included $4000-$5000 "additional dealer profit".
I could get a 2017 Audi S3, a 2017 Audi A4 quattro or a Jaguar XE AWD diesel for the same money.
They were offering an additional $1000 incentive for people trading in a TDI.
GyroRon
Veteran Member
Comparable to what? I see many people talking about diesel Audi SUV's and other very expensive vehicles. Not to mention, buying something used thats 2 or 3 years old saves tons of money and would bring the price down quite a bit.
GyroRon
Veteran Member
Honestly, I don't understand why so many people are even looking at new cars to begin with. Bought my first " new " car in 1993 and last " new " car in 2008. Never again!
Literally any car or truck made in recent times is capable of 200-300 thousand miles easily. The first 100 thousand miles should be mostly trouble free.
No matter how much of a discount off MSRP you got on your new whatever your looking at, once that car or truck is a year or two old and has 12 to 24 thousand miles on it, its going to be worth substantially less than whatever you paid for it. And what is 12-24 thousand miles really.... it's nothing when you consider the car should do a easy 200K or more.
I was tired of paying so much to buy something and it take 2-3 years before I could even sell it privately or especially trade it in and not still owe more than its worth. Tired of buying a vehicle new and it losing several thousand dollars in value in it's first year. The Camry I bought to replace my TDI is basically 3 years old. Driven around 13K a year. It was well taken care of and other than a few faith light scratches in the paint looks brand new inside and out. I paid less than half of what it would have cost new in 2014. If continued to be driven 13K a year, It would take 12 more years to reach 200 thousand miles.... So another way to look at it is the original owner paid about 14 thousand dollars to drive this car for 3 years at 13K a year, I paid a little under 14 thousand dollar and I would get at least 12 years of ownership at 13K a year.
I guess if everyone buys used there would be no new cars sold and the used market would dry up... So I guess thanks to those that keep buying new. But I know I won't ever do that again. Even my TDI I bought used... It was only 6 months old and only had around 8000 miles on it, but I saved $7500 buying it verses a brand new identical one.... I am actually MAKING a PROFIT on my buyback of my TDI, I am getting more back from VW than I spent to buy the car, plus I got to drive it for the last 3 years, close to 46,000 miles for free.
Literally any car or truck made in recent times is capable of 200-300 thousand miles easily. The first 100 thousand miles should be mostly trouble free.
No matter how much of a discount off MSRP you got on your new whatever your looking at, once that car or truck is a year or two old and has 12 to 24 thousand miles on it, its going to be worth substantially less than whatever you paid for it. And what is 12-24 thousand miles really.... it's nothing when you consider the car should do a easy 200K or more.
I was tired of paying so much to buy something and it take 2-3 years before I could even sell it privately or especially trade it in and not still owe more than its worth. Tired of buying a vehicle new and it losing several thousand dollars in value in it's first year. The Camry I bought to replace my TDI is basically 3 years old. Driven around 13K a year. It was well taken care of and other than a few faith light scratches in the paint looks brand new inside and out. I paid less than half of what it would have cost new in 2014. If continued to be driven 13K a year, It would take 12 more years to reach 200 thousand miles.... So another way to look at it is the original owner paid about 14 thousand dollars to drive this car for 3 years at 13K a year, I paid a little under 14 thousand dollar and I would get at least 12 years of ownership at 13K a year.
I guess if everyone buys used there would be no new cars sold and the used market would dry up... So I guess thanks to those that keep buying new. But I know I won't ever do that again. Even my TDI I bought used... It was only 6 months old and only had around 8000 miles on it, but I saved $7500 buying it verses a brand new identical one.... I am actually MAKING a PROFIT on my buyback of my TDI, I am getting more back from VW than I spent to buy the car, plus I got to drive it for the last 3 years, close to 46,000 miles for free.
ericy
Veteran Member
The JSW is the only new car I have ever bought.
By buying the Volvo CPO, I was able to get a more or less even swap from a JSW to a Volvo V60, given what VW is going to give me for the JSW.
ecworks
New member
Looked around for a replacement for my 2014 JSW TDI that fits my work needs (home inspections) I carry a ladder most times and some tools and diagnostic testing gear and a drone for photography. Ladder on roof, back of JSW loaded with gear and cruising to the jobsite getting 48 mpg was a beautiful thing.
Went back and forth on the buy-back vs repair options and buy-back won out.
For the past month went looking for a suitable replacement but nothing out there came close to the JSW for my needs and wants. So I decided to stay with the Sportwagen platform
Local dealer had Labor Day sale so last night I picked up 2016 Golf SW TSI S for $20,990 with 0% interest loan. Could have waited til 2018 but $14,350 in my pocket now and zero interest loan seemed better option. Was going to wait until the buy-back started in Oct/Nov but I figure that there is a good chance a lot of TDI customers will be coming back in mass for the buy-back and there likely will be a run on inventory, especially for my fave, the Sportwagen TSI.
I'll turn in the TDI in November when approved and get $14,350 net back.
The only bummer is that I just replaced my tires on my TDI using the VW gift card a few weeks ago. So my plan is to switch out the stock tires on the new 2016 TSI with my new Goodyears Eagles I've got on the 2014 TDI before I turn it in. Actually I might switch out the rims also. The new 2016 TSI S comes with 15" rims and marginal tires. My 2014 TDI JSW came with 16" rims. Service dept says they are interchangeable, same bolt pattern and tire pressure sensor is no problem.
Went back and forth on the buy-back vs repair options and buy-back won out.
For the past month went looking for a suitable replacement but nothing out there came close to the JSW for my needs and wants. So I decided to stay with the Sportwagen platform
Local dealer had Labor Day sale so last night I picked up 2016 Golf SW TSI S for $20,990 with 0% interest loan. Could have waited til 2018 but $14,350 in my pocket now and zero interest loan seemed better option. Was going to wait until the buy-back started in Oct/Nov but I figure that there is a good chance a lot of TDI customers will be coming back in mass for the buy-back and there likely will be a run on inventory, especially for my fave, the Sportwagen TSI.
I'll turn in the TDI in November when approved and get $14,350 net back.
The only bummer is that I just replaced my tires on my TDI using the VW gift card a few weeks ago. So my plan is to switch out the stock tires on the new 2016 TSI with my new Goodyears Eagles I've got on the 2014 TDI before I turn it in. Actually I might switch out the rims also. The new 2016 TSI S comes with 15" rims and marginal tires. My 2014 TDI JSW came with 16" rims. Service dept says they are interchangeable, same bolt pattern and tire pressure sensor is no problem.
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pparks1
Veteran Member
For me, reasons include
1). Latest features
2). No dents/dings/etc to be concerned with
3). I know exactly how it's been maintained and driven
4). I can test drive different models, engines and find what I want
5). I can be picky and get the color, and features that I want.
I totally get your reasoning for buying used instead. I've done it before to save money. My last 3 cars have been bought new, and my wife leases, so hers is always new. But once I buy it, I usually drive it for 10-12 years.
BuyMeBackSoon
Veteran Member
For some people the cost of buying new is not a significant factor. I could ask why have a car at all? Live near public transport, buy a bike, etc.
My last few cars have all been used, my wife's all new. Lol
GyroRon
Veteran Member
1. What feature is on a 2016 or 2017 model car that wasn't on a 2013 or 2014 model car that you can't live without?
2. There are plenty of lightly used cars out there dent and ding free.
3. I used to feel the same. Reality is unless your looking at a performance car owned by a teenager, most people drive and treat their vehicles fairly well. Certainly not abusive, especially not on a car that was bought new and only kept for a year or three. Most baby their cars because they either think they will keep it forever or want to keep it pristine so it has best possible resale value.
4. You can do that with a used car too. Go to Carmax and spend the entire day driving as many cars as you want. Once you find the car that you really like you can start looking everywhere ( Carmax has high prices, you can find better deals elsewhere )
5. You can do this too. Might have less options availible to choose from if your dead set on a certain combo of color and features but unless its ultra rare, chances are you will find them just as easily used as sitting on a dealers lot.
I made the same excuses as you.... Bought new cars and trucks at least once every 2 years from 1993 to 2008. Always bought new and always had a reason I told myself to justify it. Blew away TONS of money in depreciation over those years.... Enough to make myself sick. I buy used now and trust me, its not like I am buying some junky old used up car.... I am buying cars that pretty well look brand new with super low miles. And I am saving TONS of money doing so!
gatz
Veteran Member
When I was looking at the 2016 year end deals from VW, you could get brand new cars $6000 off, cheaper than the used cars they had on the lot with 20k miles on them. Not to say you couldn't get a deal on the used one but I doubt nearly as much.
And I would personally prefer to spend the extra bit of money for the additional warranty period and knowledge that nobody else had mucked around with the vehicle.
And I would personally prefer to spend the extra bit of money for the additional warranty period and knowledge that nobody else had mucked around with the vehicle.
ecworks
New member
I found the same situation at dealer I just bought from (new)
bennybmn
Veteran Member
I've been looking at the Mazda6, and they added some interesting software that varies the throttle on turn-in to a corner to help shift the weight to the outside front wheel, pretty cool stuff. Can't get it on a 16... Throwing the "can't live without" on the end of the argument is such a subjective thing that it might as well be an argument about religion or politics
I also agree with what someone said about finding end of model year deals. 6k off pays for a lot of that depreciation. And the warranty/no abuse thing is worth something to me. Again, can't really put a dollar figure on it, and it's different for everyone. But as a big DIY guy, I know I can do a ton of stuff myself. But as a working dad, I'd rather spend my weekends with my kid.
To each their own... I went new this time for a few reasons.
#1, I am the first and only owner of the car. So I know how it was treated from day 1.
#2, I've always had used cars up to now. And I agree that it's typically not the best deal...
Bot, the main reason I went new is for the sport model gti that was pretty much a unicorn in the past few years to have both lighting and performance packages included on the S model gti. I wanted fabric, no sunroof, PP & LP. The Sport made the car everyone wanted.
The labor day Sale vw had Monday made the price even better. I talked them down another grand. So basically ~4k off msrp. My out the door price was still under msrp as well
These are also good reasons
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We tend to buy new and order them because loaded manuals are tough to find used or even last year's discounted models sitting on the lot. And we drive our cars for 11+ years, on average. It's nice to get exactly what we want when keeping a car that long. And knowing exactly what sort of maintenance it's had.
Kabin
Veteran Member
I saw my first GTD today with AZ state manufacturer's plates. It was being driven with some spirit and I saw no tailpipe smoke.
ricks
Veteran Member
Just read an interesting stat today which said that people with the highest credit scores "tend" to buy used. I found this remarkable since my wife and I have only bought one car off the new car lot (my 2010 JSW) in 30 years (which was purchase with Cash for Clunkers money) and between us we have bought 6 cars including the JSW and have credit scores in the 700s. Weird. I was considering until yesterday accepting the buy back and buying a used low mileage A4 wagon/Avant but will take the cash and throw it into another car needing some engine work. Then will try to make the Jetta as bullet proof as possible so to not suffer a hpfp failure. So practical it hurts.
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BuyMeBackSoon
Veteran Member
That's because people who responsibly use credit are either more financially conservative, or educated or perhaps cheap. I fit into some of those categories.
If you are very wealthy you probably pay cash and don't have super high scores.
k1xv
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2009
- Location
- southern Vermont
- TDI
- 09 TDI sedan, sold back 12/16. Present cars 2013 BMW X5 diesel, 2015 Corvette convertible
My late father was morbidly thrifty and fearful of debt. He bought cheap, and paid cash. No credit cards of any kind. As a result of never borrowing anything, he had no credit score at all. Made it inconvenient when, for the first time, he actually wanted to finance a house purchase.
pparks1
Veteran Member
Man, I must borrow way too much then because my credit score is well into the 800s. My only debt right now is my car payment, and 2 more house payments. (Happy dance)
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pparks1
Veteran Member
Well, I could live without power windows and power door locks, but I don't want to. One example here is Android Auto. While not perfect, it's in my new Honda, it ties to my phone and shows me Google Maps on my touch screen display and gives me turn by turn directions on my dashboard. I don't have to buy maps from Honda/VW/etc, and it saved me $1,000 by not having to buy navigation on my new car. No car in 2013/2014 had Android Auto/Apple Car Play as it didn't exist.
Of course. But sometimes the paint isn't taken care of, or a chip not filled that has rust starting, etc. It was just one reason I threw out there.
And some lease it and really don't care whatsoever how they maintain it. As long as it's not dented or holes in the seats, the dealer doesn't know if oil changes were actually performed.
I made my point poorly. Let's say that I know I want a Subaru legacy. If buying new at the dealer, I could try out a few different models, or try with leather or without leather, or with a V6 or not with a V6 and really find the one I want.
See, i don't buy that often. I bought a "slightly used" (8,000 mile) 1997 Dodge Stratus. Then I bought a new 2002 Passat GLX because I had a real job and needed reliable transportation. I kept the Stratus and drove it as my daily driver until 2011 when it was stolen. Traded my 2002 Passat GLX in during 2013 on a new Passat TDI. If it wasn't for the accident where the 2013 Passat was totaled or this whole buyback fiasco came around, I wouldn't have considered getting rid of the TDI until at least 2023. So, I'm only on my 4th car in 20 years. And it really should be my 3rd car in 20 years.
mydecember1985
Veteran Member
Whoa, where and when are these things available?
mydecember1985
Veteran Member
I'm only 29. No mortgage. Buying a house next year or 2018. About 10 cards between the wife and I. Always pay off in full every month. Both scores are floating just at 800. Only debt we pay interest on in the car.
What's your opinion on the 6? We are going to go test drive both a Grand Touring and a standard Touring to see if the ~$2-3k+ price tag is worth the extra trim and features. Both are CPO '16s. 7k on the standard. 21k on the GT. Standard $22k, Grand Touring is only $23k because of miles.I've been looking at the Mazda6, and they added some interesting software that varies the throttle on turn-in to a corner to help shift the weight to the outside front wheel, pretty cool stuff. Can't get it on a 16... Throwing the "can't live without" on the end of the argument is such a subjective thing that it might as well be an argument about religion or politics
What are some of the new things you liked about the '17s? I just downloaded Consumer Reports New Car issue to the tablet, so I'll be reading it in the next 48hrs.
I looked at the maintenance schedule, and it looks amazingly cheap. Stuff you can do entirely yourself. Just oil, filter, tire rotations, and inspections at 40k, 60k, and 75k. No mention of expensive tranny service, etc. The schedule stops at 80K, so I can't see what is recommended at the 120k range. If I'm correct, it's a timing CHAIN, so it shouldn't need be replaced.