I think 325,000 miles is a pretty good life span for any component, regardless of how you drive.Thanks for all the information, Vekke and others.
Is it better to coast in neutral or with the clutch depressed only? I ask because I did have a throwout bearing failure at 325k and I did practice hypermiling by coasting down many large hills with the clutch depressed. It may have been unrelated but I did want to check to be sure.
I double posted because I wanted to hear from Vekke as well.It's not necessary to post in multiple threads.
Your first tank will never be representative, and partial tanks are not a reliable way to know your fuel usage since the dials are not linear.
Turn off the A/C compressor if your climate is bearable without it (try parking in the shade instead if you can. Open windows are OK at low speed but a bad idea >40mph). Note that it will impact your MPG, and particularly during slow / city driving.
I let my RPMs drop right down to 1400 or so if there is little/no load such as when driving slowly on the flat (obviously if you need power you need to change down first).
Brake drag - feel your hubs after a long drive. The fronts should be warm (but not hot), but the rears should be cold. But it is far too early to be worrying about mpg if you are only part way through your first tank - see how your second tank looks before changing anything.
This is interesting. I haven't read about this. As you say, my gauge reads a consistent 190 after the car has been running for few minutes. How else would I check for an accurate reading? Scanguage II?Justin, are you sure that your car is getting up to temperature? Often times the dash gauge will still go up to the mid position, but due to the gauge's buffer, you don't notice that the engine isn't actually getting up to temperature and the result is poor fuel economy.
Yes. (VDCS/VagCom, or ultragauge, will also work ...). But I still think it is too early to be considering this stuff.... How else would I check for an accurate reading? Scanguage II?
The gauge is not linear so you cannot make this extrapolation. Did you fill up the tank yourself originally, or was it the seller?Currently I'm at 5/16th of a tank and 400 miles. If the gauge drops at the same rate that it has been, I'll be lucky to hit 500 miles which would put me at 35mpg. ...
You didn't mention any city driving earlier (apart from the San Antonio trips each Sat). How much other short trip / stop-go driving do you do? TDIs don't like short trips or stop/go. How many miles is the San Antonio trip?... I will use the car only to commute to work to eliminate the city driving variable. ...
Far as autos go my 01M 'breaks' by throwing it into a higher gear when I let off the throttle after about 25-30ft pretty consistently; must just be leaned since it was once a hilly PA car.1st set of links are broken if you will, doesn't take you directly to the videos takes you to your general page.
not sure how you are "engine braking". Diesels don't have a throttle plate or a jakebrake. throttle plate your generating a vacuum and a load (pumping losses) that work against the motor. a jake your not firing the injectors, holding the exhaust valve shut till the last second (acting like an air compressor) then opening the valve briefly to let the air out. only "engine braking" your doing is using the friction of the motor internal to help slow the car down.
and when it comes to coasting to a stop in gear vs neutral it depends on your motor, I know my PD motor does not inject fuel on off throttle in gear coasting, you can hear when the injectors are firing fuel. I can't speak for a car that has a VE IP (ALH, Z1, AUH etc)
well i was implying manual transmission for turning off the injectors on off throttle. if you were really concerned about fuel econ you would not have bought a POS automatic trans. again even being in a higher gear your still not "engine braking" for the reasons stated above, unless you have and throttle plate that is closing, a jake brake, or an exhaust brake...Far as autos go my 01M 'breaks' by throwing it into a higher gear when I let off the throttle after about 25-30ft pretty consistently; must just be leaned since it was once a hilly PA car.
The DSG does a similar thing but it's really clunky since one gear is heavier than the other so I just throw it in N when I can to make it smoother.
Shifting into N will throw my ALH into idle mode, so presumably there is some fuel savings there. Same thing happens when I just lightly tap the brake, so that's usually what I do.
Diesels do have 'jakebrakes', but you won't find them on most engines our size .
your just using the friction of the or the rotation & reciprocating assembly in the motor... if you could trigger the ASV to close 98% of the way then you could get some "engine braking". if you want to call the friction from the motor "engine braking" then go ahead, but i wouldn'tWhile it may not be "engine braking" in the same sense as a gasoline engine, keeping the TDI in gear when letting off the accelerator definitely has a noticeable slowing effect vs taking it out of gear ... if it's not called "engine braking" then I'm not sure what the correct term would be for having the engine slow me down... "engine slowing"?
Why not? Normal brakes = friction surface, so I don't see why it is unreasonable to refer to the internal friction of the engine as engine braking. The friction is coming from the engine. The effect is the same as using the brakes. Hence 'engine braking'. So what if the petrol engines have additional sources of inefficiency?... if you want to call the friction from the motor "engine braking" then go ahead, but i wouldn't ...
I've also discovered that we can get "free" A/C by turning it on while coasting in gear. This stops the car faster and doesn't affect MPG. On warm days, I sometimes do that when coasting to signal lights.Why not? Normal brakes = friction surface, so I don't see why it is unreasonable to refer to the internal friction of the engine as engine braking. The friction is coming from the engine. The effect is the same as using the brakes. Hence 'engine braking'. So what if the petrol engines have additional sources of inefficiency?
Nope.... This is the most fuel efficient method of driving this car ...
totally differentWhy not? Normal brakes = friction surface, so I don't see why it is unreasonable to refer to the internal friction of the engine as engine braking. The friction is coming from the engine. The effect is the same as using the brakes. Hence 'engine braking'. So what if the petrol engines have additional sources of inefficiency?
Italian tune? you me mean peg red line?But you can keep the turbo clear by giving it an Italian tune once every second tank, and you can avoid the gearbox strain by always changing down whenever you need to accelerate / go up a hill / whatever.
and they state a DPF & EGR for that. I can see how the DPF would cause increased back pressure and creates a slight load that works against the engine. I don't see how EGR would do this.I think our Diesel engines would be considered modern...