dan.falzone
Veteran Member
I have written a DIY for what it has taken me to repair a HPFP failure on my car. This is what I had done to remove the contamination form the system and replace the bad parts. If you chose to do this, it is at your own risk.
1. Clean fuel tank and lines. (Instructions by 2micron)
a. Pull out lift pump and syphon out contaminated diesel fluid. Wipe tank dry and pour in a few gallons of hot soapy water. (I use dawn because it cuts through oil and fumes) Use clean rag and wipe the soapy water all around the tank. Syphon out the water. There will still be some suds so add another gallon of water, slosh it around and syphon it out. Repeat until the suds are gone then wipe the tank dry.
b. Pull the main fuel lines off of the car and clean them out with hot soapy water then use compressed air to blow the lines out. (There are four lines, 2 feed and 2 return. You will need to remove the belly pan from the car to get these lines out.) After they are clean and dry, put back on the car.
c. Remove all rubber lines from under the hood. You will have one coming from the feed and one from the return line going to the fuel filter. One going from the fuel filter to the aux. fuel pump, one going from the aux. pump to the HPFP, and one going from the HPFP return line to the fuel filter. You will also have two small rubber lines, one going from the HPFP to the metal return line and one going from the common rail to the metal return line.
There is also a fuel temp sensor connected to the HPFP, this can be cleaned as well, but make sure to remove the sensor at the back of it first. (You can also just buy the sensor, 2 rubber lines , and housing for about $60.00) Soak these lines in hot, soapy water and blow out with compressed air. (I would do this several times)
d. Remove the fuel filter assembly and dump out all old diesel fluid and discard old filter. Clean out filter housing with hot, soapy water and wipe clean. (Optional: Insert small N52 rare earth magnets into the housing to collect left over metal particles) Depending on what filter type you have, there may be a thermostatic valve on the cover. Submerse this in HOT, soapy water to get it to open up. If you do not do this, it will open when the fuel gets warm and dump metal shavings into your newly cleaned system. Clean thoroughly and blow out with compressed air.
e. Remove the high pressure metal line going from the HPFP to the common rail, The metal return line, and the four high pressure lines going to each injector (label these), and the common rail. (I suggest sending all of the metal lines to a shop that can clean and flush them. Most machine shops can do this. Luckily my father works in one and was able to perform the cleaning.)
f. Remove the fuel rail pressure regulator and the fuel pressure sensor. The regulator has a small filter on the end of it. The metal shavings will need to be cleaned out of it.
The fuel rail pressure sensor can be cleaned as well, but it takes time and a new one only costs between $30 - $60, so I would replace it.
g. Put about 5 gallons of fresh diesel into your tank and install your NEW lift pump. Take all of your rubber lines and link them together with 5/16” hose barbs. Connect them to the rubber feed line from the fuel tank. If you have purchased the 2micron filter system, use a 1 micron filter and hook the linked rubber lines to the input of the of the filter system and connect the return line to the output line of the filter system. If you did not purchase the 2micron filter system, you can purchase a spin on filter housing cheaply and use a 1 micron spin on filter. Hotwire the lift fuel pump and run it for an hour. (keep your eye out for leaks)
h. You have now flushed your tank and lines of any contamination. Disconnect all linked together lines and discard used 1 micron filter.
2. Replacing Pumps (Instructions by myturbodiesel.com) (Read documentation for complete instructions)
a. The aux pump will need to be replaced. There is a bracket on top of it attached by 1 T30 bolt. Disconnect it and set it to the side. With the two rubber fuel lines on the side of the pump removed, you will be able to see 2x 10mm 12 point bolts. Remove them and disconnect the wire harness, the pump will pull out. Discard old pump.
b. Remove front passenger side tire and inner wheel well cover. Remove harmonic balancer, and remove timing belt covers. You will need to lock the crank and cam down to top dead center. Loosen tensioner and remove belt from HPFP sprocket. Remove sprocket, then remove hub. Remove three bolts holding in HPFP, and remove the pump. (there is also a wire harness connected to a sensor on the HPFP that needs to be removed)
c. Install new HPFP and put hub and sprocket back on. Put timing belt back on and reset tensioner. Verify correct timing. Reinstall timing belt covers, harmonic balancer, wheel well cover, and passenger side tire.
d. Install new aux fuel pump and reconnect wire harness.
e. Re-install fuel filter housing and reconnect all rubber fuel lines, and metal files. (You can put rare earth magnets in the fuel filter housing to collect any rouge metal shavings that may have survived the process, just make sure they do not interfere with the filter’s fit)
3. Injectors (Directions by myturbodiesel.com) (Read documentation for complete instructions)
a. Depending on whether or not you decide to replace the injectors, you may not have to
do this.
b. Disconnect the wire harnesses from the injectors.
c. Remove the bleed off hose from the top of the injectors. You can purchase new hose or clean out the one you have.
d. Remove the 10 injector cover bolts, turn each cover 90 degrees to reveal the injector hold down nuts. Remove the 8 nuts. Remove the injectors. (If you are re-using them, make sure to label them so they go back into the correct cylinder)
e. Install new injectors or rebuilt injectors back into the correct cylinder and replace the nuts, and reinstall the covers.
f. Re-install the high pressure lines from the common rail to the injectors. Plug the wire harnesses back into the injectors. Reconnect the bleed off hose to the injectors and to the metal return line.
4. Prime the system
a. Either use VCDS to prime the fuel system, or hotwire the lift pump and aux pump to prime fuel back into the system. (DO NOT RUN THE HPFP DRY)
5. Start the car and enjoy having a working TDI again. =)
1. Must Replace!
a. High pressure pump 03L130851AX $569.40 + $110 (core)
b. Aux Fuel Pump $139.95
c. Fuel Pump/Lift Pump $99.97
d. Camshaft Sprocket Bolts $4.50
e. Harmonic Balancer Bolts $5.84
f. High Pressure Pump Bolt Set $12.00
g. Fuel Filter $23.95
2. Optional Replace
a. Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor $65.95
b. HPFP fuel return line w/ temperature sensor $56.09
c. Injector cleaning $150.00 x4 (Contact DrivBiWire)
d. Injector bleed off lines $6.49
3. Tools
a. Timing Belt Tool Kit for Common Rail TDI engines $146.00
4. Optional Parts
a. 2micron filter set ~$500
b. N52 Rare Earth Magnets ~$12.00
c. Timing Belt Kit ~ $320.00 (If is getting close to the scheduled replacement period, you might as well. This will come with camshaft, and harmonic balancer bolts so you can remove them from the list)
5. The Whole Shebang!
a. The high end of this would be around $2200.00 but that’s the worst case scenario. The average person should be able to do this for around $1000.00 to $1500.00 depending on if you chose to get your injectors cleaned. I have heard rumors that VW is saying that the injectors do not need to be replaced. I cannot confirm or deny this and I do not know if it can lead to other problems.
b. I would personally invest in the 2micron complete filter system. It’s cheap insurance to protect your fuel system if the HPFP were to ever break again. In that case, you’re looking at about $570.00 for another pump and $30.00 for the new 2mircon filter. If you chose not to buy the 2micron setup, you will still need a ¾” filter housing and a 1 micron spin on filter. You can order both from ANS Distributing for around $50.00.
Housing: http://www.ansdistributing.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=CC200H3-4&catlist=106
Filter: http://www.ansdistributing.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=CC300BHA-01&catlist=94
You will also need to purchase some adapters to fit the rubber fuel lines to it.
Timing Belt Replacement: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/cbea-cjaa-vw-jetta-golf-jsw-tdi-timing-belt-removal-part-1/
HPFP Replacement: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/hpfp-and-common-rail-audi-vw-2-0l-crd-tdi-engine/
Injector Removal: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/fuel-injector-and-valve-cover-removal-cjaa-cbea-2-0-tdi-engine/
2Micron: http://2microntech.com
Metalneard: http://www.metalnerd.com/default.htm
ID Parts: http://www.idparts.com/
ECS Tuning: http://www.ecstuning.com/
Rock Auto: http://www.rockauto.com/
Jim Ellis VW Parts: http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/products/High-pressure-pump/5128901/03L130851AX.html
ANS: http://www.ansdistributing.com/
DBW LLC: http://www.dbwllc.net/contact-us/
1. Clean fuel tank and lines. (Instructions by 2micron)
a. Pull out lift pump and syphon out contaminated diesel fluid. Wipe tank dry and pour in a few gallons of hot soapy water. (I use dawn because it cuts through oil and fumes) Use clean rag and wipe the soapy water all around the tank. Syphon out the water. There will still be some suds so add another gallon of water, slosh it around and syphon it out. Repeat until the suds are gone then wipe the tank dry.
b. Pull the main fuel lines off of the car and clean them out with hot soapy water then use compressed air to blow the lines out. (There are four lines, 2 feed and 2 return. You will need to remove the belly pan from the car to get these lines out.) After they are clean and dry, put back on the car.
c. Remove all rubber lines from under the hood. You will have one coming from the feed and one from the return line going to the fuel filter. One going from the fuel filter to the aux. fuel pump, one going from the aux. pump to the HPFP, and one going from the HPFP return line to the fuel filter. You will also have two small rubber lines, one going from the HPFP to the metal return line and one going from the common rail to the metal return line.
There is also a fuel temp sensor connected to the HPFP, this can be cleaned as well, but make sure to remove the sensor at the back of it first. (You can also just buy the sensor, 2 rubber lines , and housing for about $60.00) Soak these lines in hot, soapy water and blow out with compressed air. (I would do this several times)
d. Remove the fuel filter assembly and dump out all old diesel fluid and discard old filter. Clean out filter housing with hot, soapy water and wipe clean. (Optional: Insert small N52 rare earth magnets into the housing to collect left over metal particles) Depending on what filter type you have, there may be a thermostatic valve on the cover. Submerse this in HOT, soapy water to get it to open up. If you do not do this, it will open when the fuel gets warm and dump metal shavings into your newly cleaned system. Clean thoroughly and blow out with compressed air.
e. Remove the high pressure metal line going from the HPFP to the common rail, The metal return line, and the four high pressure lines going to each injector (label these), and the common rail. (I suggest sending all of the metal lines to a shop that can clean and flush them. Most machine shops can do this. Luckily my father works in one and was able to perform the cleaning.)
f. Remove the fuel rail pressure regulator and the fuel pressure sensor. The regulator has a small filter on the end of it. The metal shavings will need to be cleaned out of it.
The fuel rail pressure sensor can be cleaned as well, but it takes time and a new one only costs between $30 - $60, so I would replace it.
g. Put about 5 gallons of fresh diesel into your tank and install your NEW lift pump. Take all of your rubber lines and link them together with 5/16” hose barbs. Connect them to the rubber feed line from the fuel tank. If you have purchased the 2micron filter system, use a 1 micron filter and hook the linked rubber lines to the input of the of the filter system and connect the return line to the output line of the filter system. If you did not purchase the 2micron filter system, you can purchase a spin on filter housing cheaply and use a 1 micron spin on filter. Hotwire the lift fuel pump and run it for an hour. (keep your eye out for leaks)
h. You have now flushed your tank and lines of any contamination. Disconnect all linked together lines and discard used 1 micron filter.
2. Replacing Pumps (Instructions by myturbodiesel.com) (Read documentation for complete instructions)
a. The aux pump will need to be replaced. There is a bracket on top of it attached by 1 T30 bolt. Disconnect it and set it to the side. With the two rubber fuel lines on the side of the pump removed, you will be able to see 2x 10mm 12 point bolts. Remove them and disconnect the wire harness, the pump will pull out. Discard old pump.
b. Remove front passenger side tire and inner wheel well cover. Remove harmonic balancer, and remove timing belt covers. You will need to lock the crank and cam down to top dead center. Loosen tensioner and remove belt from HPFP sprocket. Remove sprocket, then remove hub. Remove three bolts holding in HPFP, and remove the pump. (there is also a wire harness connected to a sensor on the HPFP that needs to be removed)
c. Install new HPFP and put hub and sprocket back on. Put timing belt back on and reset tensioner. Verify correct timing. Reinstall timing belt covers, harmonic balancer, wheel well cover, and passenger side tire.
d. Install new aux fuel pump and reconnect wire harness.
e. Re-install fuel filter housing and reconnect all rubber fuel lines, and metal files. (You can put rare earth magnets in the fuel filter housing to collect any rouge metal shavings that may have survived the process, just make sure they do not interfere with the filter’s fit)
3. Injectors (Directions by myturbodiesel.com) (Read documentation for complete instructions)
a. Depending on whether or not you decide to replace the injectors, you may not have to
do this.
b. Disconnect the wire harnesses from the injectors.
c. Remove the bleed off hose from the top of the injectors. You can purchase new hose or clean out the one you have.
d. Remove the 10 injector cover bolts, turn each cover 90 degrees to reveal the injector hold down nuts. Remove the 8 nuts. Remove the injectors. (If you are re-using them, make sure to label them so they go back into the correct cylinder)
e. Install new injectors or rebuilt injectors back into the correct cylinder and replace the nuts, and reinstall the covers.
f. Re-install the high pressure lines from the common rail to the injectors. Plug the wire harnesses back into the injectors. Reconnect the bleed off hose to the injectors and to the metal return line.
4. Prime the system
a. Either use VCDS to prime the fuel system, or hotwire the lift pump and aux pump to prime fuel back into the system. (DO NOT RUN THE HPFP DRY)
5. Start the car and enjoy having a working TDI again. =)
PARTS
1. Must Replace!
a. High pressure pump 03L130851AX $569.40 + $110 (core)
b. Aux Fuel Pump $139.95
c. Fuel Pump/Lift Pump $99.97
d. Camshaft Sprocket Bolts $4.50
e. Harmonic Balancer Bolts $5.84
f. High Pressure Pump Bolt Set $12.00
g. Fuel Filter $23.95
2. Optional Replace
a. Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor $65.95
b. HPFP fuel return line w/ temperature sensor $56.09
c. Injector cleaning $150.00 x4 (Contact DrivBiWire)
d. Injector bleed off lines $6.49
3. Tools
a. Timing Belt Tool Kit for Common Rail TDI engines $146.00
4. Optional Parts
a. 2micron filter set ~$500
b. N52 Rare Earth Magnets ~$12.00
c. Timing Belt Kit ~ $320.00 (If is getting close to the scheduled replacement period, you might as well. This will come with camshaft, and harmonic balancer bolts so you can remove them from the list)
5. The Whole Shebang!
a. The high end of this would be around $2200.00 but that’s the worst case scenario. The average person should be able to do this for around $1000.00 to $1500.00 depending on if you chose to get your injectors cleaned. I have heard rumors that VW is saying that the injectors do not need to be replaced. I cannot confirm or deny this and I do not know if it can lead to other problems.
b. I would personally invest in the 2micron complete filter system. It’s cheap insurance to protect your fuel system if the HPFP were to ever break again. In that case, you’re looking at about $570.00 for another pump and $30.00 for the new 2mircon filter. If you chose not to buy the 2micron setup, you will still need a ¾” filter housing and a 1 micron spin on filter. You can order both from ANS Distributing for around $50.00.
Housing: http://www.ansdistributing.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=CC200H3-4&catlist=106
Filter: http://www.ansdistributing.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=CC300BHA-01&catlist=94
You will also need to purchase some adapters to fit the rubber fuel lines to it.
DOCUMENTS
Timing Belt Replacement: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/cbea-cjaa-vw-jetta-golf-jsw-tdi-timing-belt-removal-part-1/
HPFP Replacement: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/hpfp-and-common-rail-audi-vw-2-0l-crd-tdi-engine/
Injector Removal: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/fuel-injector-and-valve-cover-removal-cjaa-cbea-2-0-tdi-engine/
VENDORS
2Micron: http://2microntech.com
Metalneard: http://www.metalnerd.com/default.htm
ID Parts: http://www.idparts.com/
ECS Tuning: http://www.ecstuning.com/
Rock Auto: http://www.rockauto.com/
Jim Ellis VW Parts: http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/products/High-pressure-pump/5128901/03L130851AX.html
ANS: http://www.ansdistributing.com/
DBW LLC: http://www.dbwllc.net/contact-us/
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