HPFP Failure Repair DIY

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dan.falzone

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Location
Rockford, IL
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
I have written a DIY for what it has taken me to repair a HPFP failure on my car. This is what I had done to remove the contamination form the system and replace the bad parts. If you chose to do this, it is at your own risk.


1. Clean fuel tank and lines. (Instructions by 2micron)


a. Pull out lift pump and syphon out contaminated diesel fluid. Wipe tank dry and pour in a few gallons of hot soapy water. (I use dawn because it cuts through oil and fumes) Use clean rag and wipe the soapy water all around the tank. Syphon out the water. There will still be some suds so add another gallon of water, slosh it around and syphon it out. Repeat until the suds are gone then wipe the tank dry.



b. Pull the main fuel lines off of the car and clean them out with hot soapy water then use compressed air to blow the lines out. (There are four lines, 2 feed and 2 return. You will need to remove the belly pan from the car to get these lines out.) After they are clean and dry, put back on the car.



c. Remove all rubber lines from under the hood. You will have one coming from the feed and one from the return line going to the fuel filter. One going from the fuel filter to the aux. fuel pump, one going from the aux. pump to the HPFP, and one going from the HPFP return line to the fuel filter. You will also have two small rubber lines, one going from the HPFP to the metal return line and one going from the common rail to the metal return line.



There is also a fuel temp sensor connected to the HPFP, this can be cleaned as well, but make sure to remove the sensor at the back of it first. (You can also just buy the sensor, 2 rubber lines , and housing for about $60.00) Soak these lines in hot, soapy water and blow out with compressed air. (I would do this several times)



d. Remove the fuel filter assembly and dump out all old diesel fluid and discard old filter. Clean out filter housing with hot, soapy water and wipe clean. (Optional: Insert small N52 rare earth magnets into the housing to collect left over metal particles) Depending on what filter type you have, there may be a thermostatic valve on the cover. Submerse this in HOT, soapy water to get it to open up. If you do not do this, it will open when the fuel gets warm and dump metal shavings into your newly cleaned system. Clean thoroughly and blow out with compressed air.

e. Remove the high pressure metal line going from the HPFP to the common rail, The metal return line, and the four high pressure lines going to each injector (label these), and the common rail. (I suggest sending all of the metal lines to a shop that can clean and flush them. Most machine shops can do this. Luckily my father works in one and was able to perform the cleaning.)



f. Remove the fuel rail pressure regulator and the fuel pressure sensor. The regulator has a small filter on the end of it. The metal shavings will need to be cleaned out of it.



The fuel rail pressure sensor can be cleaned as well, but it takes time and a new one only costs between $30 - $60, so I would replace it.



g. Put about 5 gallons of fresh diesel into your tank and install your NEW lift pump. Take all of your rubber lines and link them together with 5/16” hose barbs. Connect them to the rubber feed line from the fuel tank. If you have purchased the 2micron filter system, use a 1 micron filter and hook the linked rubber lines to the input of the of the filter system and connect the return line to the output line of the filter system. If you did not purchase the 2micron filter system, you can purchase a spin on filter housing cheaply and use a 1 micron spin on filter. Hotwire the lift fuel pump and run it for an hour. (keep your eye out for leaks)

h. You have now flushed your tank and lines of any contamination. Disconnect all linked together lines and discard used 1 micron filter.


2. Replacing Pumps (Instructions by myturbodiesel.com) (Read documentation for complete instructions)

a. The aux pump will need to be replaced. There is a bracket on top of it attached by 1 T30 bolt. Disconnect it and set it to the side. With the two rubber fuel lines on the side of the pump removed, you will be able to see 2x 10mm 12 point bolts. Remove them and disconnect the wire harness, the pump will pull out. Discard old pump.

b. Remove front passenger side tire and inner wheel well cover. Remove harmonic balancer, and remove timing belt covers. You will need to lock the crank and cam down to top dead center. Loosen tensioner and remove belt from HPFP sprocket. Remove sprocket, then remove hub. Remove three bolts holding in HPFP, and remove the pump. (there is also a wire harness connected to a sensor on the HPFP that needs to be removed)

c. Install new HPFP and put hub and sprocket back on. Put timing belt back on and reset tensioner. Verify correct timing. Reinstall timing belt covers, harmonic balancer, wheel well cover, and passenger side tire.

d. Install new aux fuel pump and reconnect wire harness.

e. Re-install fuel filter housing and reconnect all rubber fuel lines, and metal files. (You can put rare earth magnets in the fuel filter housing to collect any rouge metal shavings that may have survived the process, just make sure they do not interfere with the filter’s fit)


3. Injectors (Directions by myturbodiesel.com) (Read documentation for complete instructions)

a. Depending on whether or not you decide to replace the injectors, you may not have to
do this.
b. Disconnect the wire harnesses from the injectors.

c. Remove the bleed off hose from the top of the injectors. You can purchase new hose or clean out the one you have.

d. Remove the 10 injector cover bolts, turn each cover 90 degrees to reveal the injector hold down nuts. Remove the 8 nuts. Remove the injectors. (If you are re-using them, make sure to label them so they go back into the correct cylinder)

e. Install new injectors or rebuilt injectors back into the correct cylinder and replace the nuts, and reinstall the covers.

f. Re-install the high pressure lines from the common rail to the injectors. Plug the wire harnesses back into the injectors. Reconnect the bleed off hose to the injectors and to the metal return line.


4. Prime the system

a. Either use VCDS to prime the fuel system, or hotwire the lift pump and aux pump to prime fuel back into the system. (DO NOT RUN THE HPFP DRY)

5. Start the car and enjoy having a working TDI again. =)

PARTS

1. Must Replace!

a. High pressure pump 03L130851AX $569.40 + $110 (core)
b. Aux Fuel Pump $139.95
c. Fuel Pump/Lift Pump $99.97
d. Camshaft Sprocket Bolts $4.50
e. Harmonic Balancer Bolts $5.84
f. High Pressure Pump Bolt Set $12.00
g. Fuel Filter $23.95


2. Optional Replace

a. Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor $65.95
b. HPFP fuel return line w/ temperature sensor $56.09
c. Injector cleaning $150.00 x4 (Contact DrivBiWire)
d. Injector bleed off lines $6.49


3. Tools

a. Timing Belt Tool Kit for Common Rail TDI engines $146.00


4. Optional Parts

a. 2micron filter set ~$500
b. N52 Rare Earth Magnets ~$12.00
c. Timing Belt Kit ~ $320.00 (If is getting close to the scheduled replacement period, you might as well. This will come with camshaft, and harmonic balancer bolts so you can remove them from the list)

5. The Whole Shebang!

a. The high end of this would be around $2200.00 but that’s the worst case scenario. The average person should be able to do this for around $1000.00 to $1500.00 depending on if you chose to get your injectors cleaned. I have heard rumors that VW is saying that the injectors do not need to be replaced. I cannot confirm or deny this and I do not know if it can lead to other problems.

b. I would personally invest in the 2micron complete filter system. It’s cheap insurance to protect your fuel system if the HPFP were to ever break again. In that case, you’re looking at about $570.00 for another pump and $30.00 for the new 2mircon filter. If you chose not to buy the 2micron setup, you will still need a ¾” filter housing and a 1 micron spin on filter. You can order both from ANS Distributing for around $50.00.

Housing: http://www.ansdistributing.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=CC200H3-4&catlist=106
Filter: http://www.ansdistributing.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=CC300BHA-01&catlist=94
You will also need to purchase some adapters to fit the rubber fuel lines to it.


DOCUMENTS​

Timing Belt Replacement: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/cbea-cjaa-vw-jetta-golf-jsw-tdi-timing-belt-removal-part-1/
HPFP Replacement: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/hpfp-and-common-rail-audi-vw-2-0l-crd-tdi-engine/
Injector Removal: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/fuel-injector-and-valve-cover-removal-cjaa-cbea-2-0-tdi-engine/


VENDORS​

2Micron: http://2microntech.com
Metalneard: http://www.metalnerd.com/default.htm
ID Parts: http://www.idparts.com/
ECS Tuning: http://www.ecstuning.com/
Rock Auto: http://www.rockauto.com/
Jim Ellis VW Parts: http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/products/High-pressure-pump/5128901/03L130851AX.html
ANS: http://www.ansdistributing.com/
DBW LLC: http://www.dbwllc.net/contact-us/
 
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belome

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Location
Mid MI
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS TDI 5-speed
I guess we will find out in a few thousand miles how it turned out.
 

vwmk4

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2005
Location
ROCKPILE IL. USA
TDI
None at this time, Looking for a nice one though.
Interesting read Dan, and good write up. Hope that your fix works out for you in the long run.
 

dan.falzone

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Location
Rockford, IL
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
Well if it doesn't work, at least I have 1 year warranty and with the 2micron setup, it will only be a $550.00 pump to replace if it's beyond that. At least I can take solace in that!
 

naturist

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2001
Location
Bro Jerry's hometown, Virginia
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI, 2005 Jeep Libby CRD, 2012 BMW X5 35d
Well if it doesn't work, at least I have 1 year warranty and with the 2micron setup, it will only be a $550.00 pump to replace if it's beyond that. At least I can take solace in that!

Noooo, Dan, if it doesn't work out, you'll also know that the factory method of replacing everything completely is not without merit. And an education is priceless.
 

kwong7

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Location
Southern Caifornia
TDI
2001 Golf GLS TDI / White
Or, it means that their pump is a complete piece of crap!
I wouldn't say it's exclusive to VAG, I've heard a number of BMW having HPFP issues as well. With all the auto racing and development both manufacturers do, I'm really surprised that these components haven't been revised and replaced. I'll just stick to my MK4 with a lower (though still very high) pressure fuel pump until someone figures out how to design a reliable pump.

Kudos to you for all the hard work and your willingness to help the TDI community.
 

tdi54

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2010
Location
California
TDI
1981 Rabbit Diesel(sold), 2009 Jetta TDI MT(sold)2010 Jetta TDI MT, 2015 Jetta TDI SEL, DSG, 99 Ford F 350 PSD Dually, 2016 BMW X5 xDrive35d
Very informative..Thank you for the write up.
 

dan.falzone

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Location
Rockford, IL
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
I am glad to help. Being that I do most of my automotive repairs at home, these DYI's are life savers! I understand that many of the people afflicted with this problem, like me, would not be able to afford the $6,000.00 to $7,000.00 price tag to have the dealer so the repairs.

I have used forums like this in the past to help me solve problems that I have had. It's a first for me however for a TDI. I just bought this car last December, and this is the first thing that I needed to repair. I came here because I have read through some of the threads in the past and saw that it was a pretty tight community. I came here a few weeks ago and signed up to see if anyone has tackled this problem on their own. I was unable to find a DIY write-up, but I was able to find several people that offered up a wealth of knowledge to me just to help me fix this issue. The least I can do is give this information back to you, the people!

Sorry, I had to lol.

Thanks to those of you who were such a great help. Especially 2micron, you have spent a lot of time walking me through this!
 
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owr084

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 20, 2004
Location
Northern Virginia (NoVA)
TDI
Passat GLS, 2005, Stonehenge Gray
Regarding section 2, replacing the pump. I personally, would err on the side of caution and do a complete timing belt job because who wants to go back and do it XXXXX miles later. Under Optional Replace or Optional Parts, I suggest adding a deluxe timing belt kit. Also, you might want to add a reference for DrivBiWire for cleaning the lines / injector work.
 

dan.falzone

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Location
Rockford, IL
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
Regarding section 2, replacing the pump. I personally, would err on the side of caution and do a complete timing belt job because who wants to go back and do it XXXXX miles later. Under Optional Replace or Optional Parts, I suggest adding a deluxe timing belt kit. Also, you might want to add a reference for DrivBiWire for cleaning the lines / injector work.
Okay, I can add that in. I didn't think about it because the belt was replaced on mine about 6 months ago so, its still fairly new. What is the average price for the kit and where can it be purchased at?

And there is a reference for I could of swore that I put in DriveBiWire, but I guess I missed it. Sorry, I will add it in.
 

owr084

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 20, 2004
Location
Northern Virginia (NoVA)
TDI
Passat GLS, 2005, Stonehenge Gray
Someone should be able to chime in with the info on the TB kit, I only know it for a B5 ;) Or you could just reference the preferred vendors list.

Okay, I can add that in. I didn't think about it because the belt was replaced on mine about 6 months ago so, its still fairly new. What is the average price for the kit and where can it be purchased at?
And there is a reference for I could of swore that I put in DriveBiWire, but I guess I missed it. Sorry, I will add it in.
 

BleachedBora

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Location
Gresham, Oregon
TDI
'81 DMC-12, '12 Audi TT 418 hp/383 tq, '08 GL320 CDI 275 hp/448 wtq - '81 Caddy ALH, '04 Golf BEW 2" Lift, '85 HMMWV
Fascinating - I tried to order up a HPFP the other day for a customer and VW wouldn't let me do it. Apparently according to them at the moment there is an unlimited mileage warranty on HPFP's, unless the car has a reconstructed title.

Great write-up!
-BB
 

dan.falzone

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Location
Rockford, IL
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
Fascinating - I tried to order up a HPFP the other day for a customer and VW wouldn't let me do it. Apparently according to them at the moment there is an unlimited mileage warranty on HPFP's, unless the car has a reconstructed title.

Great write-up!
-BB
That has ended as of a few weeks ago. After they sent out that letter, VW has removed the block on selling it to the public. Try ordering it again. The vendor I spoke with said the same thing, but when he looked up the part, he said that the block was removed.
 

belome

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Location
Mid MI
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS TDI 5-speed
Apparently according to them at the moment there is an unlimited mileage warranty on HPFP's, unless the car has a reconstructed title.

Great write-up!
-BB
Lots of people thought he should have tried harder to make VW fix it, but he quit fairly early on in the *****ing process... I know I'd still be complaining.
 

dan.falzone

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Location
Rockford, IL
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
Actually, I made several calls to my local dealer and VWoA as well as NHTSA. I just did not have time to wait for them to give in and fix it. My wife is driving my car for the time and I have my motorcycle, but we NEED this car running. If someone ends up making VW cover theirs, I will go after them to make them cover the cost of the OEM replacement parts I purchased. Plus with all of the people getting denied lately, it looks like a losing battle. I decided to tackle it myself to show the good people here that it is doable.
 

bobt2382

Veteran Member - TDIClub Contributor
Joined
Aug 1, 2009
Location
NJ
TDI
2010 CW GOLF 4DR 6MT TDI
Dan, Thanks for the great DIY. You are the man!
 

owr084

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 20, 2004
Location
Northern Virginia (NoVA)
TDI
Passat GLS, 2005, Stonehenge Gray
Exactly. You are following in the footsteps of many of the Passat B5.5 owners here who have had to replace or delete their balance shaft modules. Thanks to guys like MoGolf and Oilhammer, a solution was found. VWoA ignored the problem in the hopes it would go away. Funny thing is, they somehow no longer sell the bad part, they sell the one identified by Oilhammer and MoGolf.

Actually, I made several calls to my local dealer and VWoA as well as NHTSA. I just did not have time to wait for them to give in and fix it. My wife is driving my car for the time and I have my motorcycle, but we NEED this car running. If someone ends up making VW cover theirs, I will go after them to make them cover the cost of the OEM replacement parts I purchased. Plus with all of the people getting denied lately, it looks like a losing battle. I decided to tackle it myself to show the good people here that it is doable.
 

dan.falzone

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Location
Rockford, IL
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
Holy crap, why is it so hard to find torque specs for a CJAA timing belt job?? Is this a closely guarded family secret? I finally got the rest of the parts in and I need to know the torque specs for the cam sprocket bolts, HPFP sprocket bolts, and harmonic balancer bolts. I could swore I saw them on here before, but for the life of me I cannot find them now.
 

dan.falzone

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Location
Rockford, IL
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
So I just got all the parts in last night and everything is put back together right now. Primed the system by hot wiring the lift pump and aux pump. I cracked open the high pressure line feeding the CR and verified that there was diesel coming out. Attempted to start the car and it just cranks. On my 2nd attempt to start it the oil light came on and flashed 3x before turning off. After a few times of trying to start it, it fired up for a few seconds and then cut out. (while it was running, it ran very smooth) I verified the timing about 3 times before putting everything back together. (including HPFP) I opened the lines to the injectors and cranked it a few times and had some diesel leak out, so I'm getting diesel to the injectors. Is there something I'm missing?? The new/used injectors have not been adapted, but I was told that it should still start and run. I have a cheap VAG-COM cable but it will only talk to me transmission =/

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

dan.falzone

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Location
Rockford, IL
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
Here are the torque specs:

Torque specs:
3x 10mm water pump bolts: 11 ft-lb
3x 13mm camshaft sprocket bolts: initial value of 15 ft-lb (20 Nm). Add the final 90 degree turn (1/4 turn) when satisfied with the final belt position. The service manual says to always replace these.
3x 10mm 12 pt HPFP sprocket bolts: 15 ft-lb (20 Nm) + 90 degree turn . The service manual says to always replace these.
1x 13mm lower roller/idler pulley nut: 15 ft-lb (20 Nm)
1x 13mm upper roller bolt: 18 ft-lb (25 Nm)
1x 16mm large roller bolt: 37 ft-lb (50 Nm) + 90 degree turn
1x 15mm timing belt tensioner nut: 15 ft-lb (20 Nm) + 1/8 turn (45 degrees). The service manual says to always replace this.
4x 10mm triple square crankshaft bolts: 7 ft-lb (10 Nm) + 1/4 turn (make sure to include the 1/4 turn since they could back out at only 7 ft-lb) The service manual says to always replace these.
5x 10mm lower timing belt cover bolts: 7 ft-lb (10 Nm) (NOTE: The service manual says to always replace these. Personally I just use new threadlocker on them but it's your car and your decision wether or not to use new hardware here.)
 

kjclow

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 26, 2003
Location
Charlotte, NC
TDI
2010 JSW TDI silver and black. 2017 Ram Ecodiesel dark red with brown and beige interior.
Thanks for this write up Dan. I hope to never need it but if the time comes, I will have something to hand the mechanic and tell them to have fun.

The color coded pictures are most helpful.
 
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rewwky

Active member
Joined
Apr 1, 2014
Location
Kentucky
TDI
2013 Golf TDI w/Tech Package
Dan,
I have a OEM parts list for a 2013 Golf TDI HPFP failure. I priced them at vwpartsdepartment.com at about $2700. Do you have any recommend vendors that may be cheaper?

Also, I'm interested to know approximately how many hours you have invested to this repair and is it more than what the VW shop guide calls for?...(I think VW uses a term ELSA to apply labor hours to repair tasks).

BTW, great DIY guide...hope you work out your issues...I am rooting for you.

Rob
 
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C3156

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2013
Location
CONUS
TDI
All sold
VW wants to replace everything in the fuel system when the HPFP goes to be on the safe side.

I did this same repair for about $1,500 DIY. I found Ebay to be a great place to shop for VW parts (New). Just type in the part number, but you have to have patience. Certain parts only seem to come up every once in a while, the HPFP is one of them. I did manage to pick a new one for $500 instead of the dealer $967.

I should have timed myself but I am sure I have more time than VW allows for the job. I'd say I put about 15-20 hours into the job, mainly because I was going slow.



Dan,
I have a OEM parts list for a 2013 Golf TDI HPFP failure. I priced them at vwpartsdepartment.com at about $2700. Do you have any recommend vendors that may be cheaper?

Also, I'm interested to know approximately how many hours you have invested to this repair and is it more than what the VW shop guide calls for?...(I think VW uses a term ELSA to apply labor hours to repair tasks).

BTW, great DIY guide...hope you work out your issues...I am rooting for you.

Rob
 

rewwky

Active member
Joined
Apr 1, 2014
Location
Kentucky
TDI
2013 Golf TDI w/Tech Package
The $2700 parts list for the HPFP repair was all fuel system components minus the fuel tank and fuel lines extending from fuel tank.

Wow, $1500...was that all OEM and cover all that I made mention of?...want to make sure that I compare apples to apples with replacement parts.

Thanks!!!
 

C3156

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2013
Location
CONUS
TDI
All sold
I don't have the VW recommended list, but here is what I replaced for comparison:

03L 130 755A – New high pressure fuel pump (Not reman)
03L 130 277A – Injectors (4)
WHT 000 884 – Injector o-ring (4)
5N0 906 129B – Aux Fuel pump
03L 130 235K - Injector return line w/ back pressure regulator
5N0 130 307J – Temperature sensor (on top of HPFP) & hose
057 130 764H - Common rail fuel pressure regulator

Pretty much everything else I cleaned by hand: Tank & in-tank pump, common rail, injector hard lines, fuel filter housing, common rail pressure sensor, and couple portions of the return line.

You could also add another $300 if you plan to replace the timing belt & rollers while you are in there.


The $2700 parts list for the HPFP repair was all fuel system components minus the fuel tank and fuel lines extending from fuel tank.

Wow, $1500...was that all OEM and cover all that I made mention of?...want to make sure that I compare apples to apples with replacement parts.

Thanks!!!
 
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