How to video: On car VE injection pump seal replacement video

RLoftin

Member
Joined
May 11, 2001
Location
Natchitoches, Louisiana
TDI
Jetta, 2001, reflex silver
Yes, I have a scribe mark that was made when the car would idle and die. The difference between too much and too little is less than the width of the mark made with a razor blade.

Any suggestions?
 

oldpoopie

Vendor
Joined
May 14, 2001
Location
Portland Oregon
TDI
2001 golf gl, 2006 jetta, 1981 ALH swapped rabbit pickup, 1998 beetle
Yes, I have a scribe mark that was made when the car would idle and die. The difference between too much and too little is less than the width of the mark made with a razor blade.

Any suggestions?
How careful were you to keep dirt out of the pump internals? Did you wash everything off first to keep the engine clean?
 

RLoftin

Member
Joined
May 11, 2001
Location
Natchitoches, Louisiana
TDI
Jetta, 2001, reflex silver
I did use good amount of brake cleaner and shop towels. I wiped away from any opening when the parts were separated. I don't think that trash in the pump is the problem. Of course what I think does not change reality.

How does the rod move in the pump?
 

runonbeer

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Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
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'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
RLoftin,
are you going to post an update? I think he just didn't get the 10pin back together completely. FWIW, I don't disconnect it anymore when doing pump seals. I only disconnect the oil pressure switch plug.

I do a lot of other things differently now than I do in the video. I really should make a new one.
 

octy900

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 13, 2014
Location
Scotland
TDI
Mk1 Octavia tdi 110 (ASV)2002
guys you need to think long and hard about whether to do your seals.I personally know 3 folk who have done a balls-up job & needed help(£300) from diese;l specialist to repair just their mistakes.If you're not absolutely sure about your abilities,DONT do it.
ps:eek:r get a scrpayard pump & try it on that.these pumps very rarely go wrong in my opinion so why mess with the pump thats on the car?
 

RLoftin

Member
Joined
May 11, 2001
Location
Natchitoches, Louisiana
TDI
Jetta, 2001, reflex silver
I have noticed runonbeer knows his stuff.

The update is that I have made progress. After another opening of the pump to check on things, I got the same results of running to the red line or not starting. Then I pulled apart the connector, treated it with a little contact cleaner and put it back together. The engine started quickly and ran toward the red line, but it did have a different sound. A few taps on the QA reduced the revolutions and I finally had throttle. The error codes are gone.

The engine now cranks quickly but has stutter up to about 1200 rpm. I have tapped one way and then the other without much change in the stutter. I am very cautious about the tapping.

VCDS shows a IQ value of 0.2 mg/str the adaption field value of 32673. I have changed the value to 32768 with no change in the IQ.

Now what should I do to get rid of the stutter and back to a good IQ value. Before the seals replacement the IQ value was 6.6.
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
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Apr 15, 2002
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Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
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'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
Its all in the video man. You adjust the IQ with a hammer while the engine is running. Some people call this the hammer mod, but it really isn't a mod at all. So that's dumb.
 

RLoftin

Member
Joined
May 11, 2001
Location
Natchitoches, Louisiana
TDI
Jetta, 2001, reflex silver
Back on the road!

I began the gasket replacement because there was the definite smell of diesel in the cabin and when parked for 4 days the fuel system lost prime. Finding this thread was the answer I needed. My problems were caused by my lack of attention. The lack of a proper scribe mark was inconvenient at best but not fatal. My worst self inflicted problem was the failure to get the plug tightly reconnected. Once that problem was fixed, it did not take long to get the engine back to running smoothly. VCDS has paid for itself once again.

Rononbeer, thanks for the video and the extra help. Maybe the car will reach 300,000 miles!
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
TDI
'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
Mine's got 330K right now and I drive it 132 miles/day. You'll go through like 4 sets of tires before you need to think about pump seals again.
 

octy900

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 13, 2014
Location
Scotland
TDI
Mk1 Octavia tdi 110 (ASV)2002
those plugs are a nightmare aint they? can remember trying to get mines apart.phew
 

runonbeer

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'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
They aren't that bad. At least not on all my Texas cars. But you don't need to mess with it to do this job so I don't.

2 dumb things about the videos:
-I disconnect the 10 pin
-I leave the vacuum reservoir ball in place
 

spacecowboy

Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2014
Location
Oklahoma
TDI
2k3 Jetta TDI
Question - Top seal only

If I need to replace the top seal only, can I do it without having to get into the VCDS ?
Picture from video:
 

oldpoopie

Vendor
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May 14, 2001
Location
Portland Oregon
TDI
2001 golf gl, 2006 jetta, 1981 ALH swapped rabbit pickup, 1998 beetle
Yes. :)

I'd be surprised if that is all that is leaking though. If dig in your heels and just do the whole thing.
 

runonbeer

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Just do them all and forget about pump seals for the next 10+ years. Instead of going back in over and over to do them one at a time.
 

spacecowboy

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Jul 17, 2014
Location
Oklahoma
TDI
2k3 Jetta TDI
Aite - solid advice. Nothing I dislike more than unnecessary rework, when it could've been done right the first time. Have the kit & parts ordered. Great tutorial vids - gives me confidence.
 

jeremy_f

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Nov 5, 2014
Location
Georgetown, IN
TDI
02 Golf, 04 Passat
First off, thank you everyone for this information. This is great stuff.

I watched the video, read this and related posts, read the procedure on diesel geek, printed it out, took notes, bought the seal kits and other required tools I didn't have. Today, I started the actual procedure.

Right off the bat, I ran into an issue that I'm hoping someone here can provide some guidance on. As I was cracking the nut on the fuel line for injector three at the pump body, I noticed that the output port in the pump head loosened as I cracked the fuel nut.

I was able to get the fuel line off the pump head without the output port coming all the way out. After that, I stopped what I was doing to post this message. I'm going to continue the procedure, but I'm hoping someone who has run into this before can tell me if this is anything to worry about. Is it OK to tighten the port back down? Should I take it all the way out, maybe there is a seal inside the output port that I should replace? Am I hosed and need to take the entire injection pump out and send it to Oregon for a rebuild?

I'm working on at 02 Golf with automatic transmission. Figured this might be important as it has the 11mm injectors. Thank you in advance for any insights.
 
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runonbeer

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You are probably ok to just tighten it back up. A deep 14mm socket works. You could also just take it out and replace the copper washer under it as you have the appropriate washer there in your Bosch seal kit.

It is not a big deal at all.
 

A5INKY

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Location
Louisville, KY
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2006 Jetta TDI, 2002 Eurovan Westphalia VR6
Just tighten it back down, not a problem at all. Whenever that happens just use the appropriate wrench on that fitting to hold it while you crack the injector line loose. There is nothing under that fitting needing attention.

It is a good idea to hold the injector with an open end wrench when loosening those too to take stress off the injector hold down assembly.
 

runonbeer

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Make sure the seal is up in there flat before you run the valve back in. Wouldn't want a taco washer in there. That'd be bad.
 

jeremy_f

New member
Joined
Nov 5, 2014
Location
Georgetown, IN
TDI
02 Golf, 04 Passat
You guys are the best. I just came back in to review the video before taking off the QA. I feel much better now. I will proceed and replace the copper washer and indicated by runonbeer.
 

jeremy_f

New member
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Nov 5, 2014
Location
Georgetown, IN
TDI
02 Golf, 04 Passat
Just wanted to post a follow-up to report success. Thanks again runonbeer and A5INKY - high five!

I did need situate the quantity adjuster a second time, so that the rod was in the control collar plunger in the pump body. I was sure I had it in there the first time, but on my first attempt to start the car after the seal replacement, it cranked and cranked forever without turning over. I couldn't find any leakage, and the pump was holding prime. After checking voltage to the fuel shutoff solenoid and reading up on the 109 relay, I decided to re-seat the quantity adjuster. This time, the rod was properly seated in the control collar: the engine turned over and I was able to tune the QA using VCDS in about 15 minutes.

Thank you once more to everyone who has contributed information here. This has easily saved me $2000 had I taken it to the dealer or a mechanic not in the know.

To anyone who might be considering taking this on, it is not a bad procedure. I'm no expert mechanic, but the information here, on the diesel geek web site and in the splendid youtube videos made it something I could tackle in confidence.
 

runonbeer

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Apr 15, 2002
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'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
Sometimes if it won't start even after you have it all purged, the QA is just too far over to the TB side. It'll eventually start but the idle IQ'll be way high. It's like in the video I think it was like 12mg/str or something. You can tell by how much cranking it took to light it off.

That's another thing I nitpic about the videos. The crappy start. Usually for me they go off like a bomb. The way an ALH ought to start and they either run great or they start bouncing and chugging because the IQ is like 1.0-0.8. If that's the case then you can just whack it towards the TB and it'll smooth out while you let it warm.
You ought to see the owners when it starts jumping like that. I always look at them and give them a fake real worried look before I smile and smooth it out. :)
 
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spacecowboy

Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2014
Location
Oklahoma
TDI
2k3 Jetta TDI
Question!

Changed seals, per video. Put everything back together, primed via overflow fuel line - when trying to start the engine, I hear a 'psst'...'psst' on every iteration/cycle of timing. After 5 or 6 seconds, of all things, the oil light comes on.

Took everything back apart (a few times), and noticed very little fuel in the chambers of the pump (each time) as opposed to when I took it apart for the first time. And when I prime again via the overflow line, the vacuum starts to pull the fuel almost immediately.

So, it seems that I'm getting a good, solid vacuum, but the fuel doesnt settle into the pump chambers on the bottom. Any idea on what would cause that scenario?
 

spacecowboy

Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2014
Location
Oklahoma
TDI
2k3 Jetta TDI
Pulled some codes -

-----------------------------------------------------------------
5 Faults Found:

16512 - Coolant Thermostat Valve (N214)
------P0128 - 35-10 - Temperature below Control Range - Intermittent

17970 - Quantity Adjuster (N146)
------P1562 - 35-00 - Upper Limit Reached

17762 - Modulating Piston Movement Sensor (G149)
------P1354 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction

16567 - Fuel Temp. Sensor A (G81)
------P0183 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus

16600 - Commencement of Injection Valve (N108)
------P0216 - 35-10 - Circuit Malfunction - Intermittent

------------------------------------------------------------------

Unplugged, and reconnected the wiring (just to the driver's side of the pump) as I could've improperly seated it.

This morning before work, I cleared codes, and tried to start it with the VCDS taking readings, as such:



First thing I see is the 36mg/str on the Injection Quantity - the target range is a tenth of that. I scribed and aligned the covers, but the pump may have been out of alignment prior. The other codes looks like they may have been related to improper connector seating.

So, I'm assuming this level of fuel will keep the car from starting? And talking through this, when I get home - I should 'hammer mod' it over (to reduce IQ) and give it another reading... right?
 

runonbeer

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Apr 15, 2002
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Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
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'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
It is normal for the ECM to ramp up fuel during cranking until the engine starts. ~36 is pretty much maxed out on stock maps. I don't think you have primed the pump adequately.

Took everything back apart (a few times), and noticed very little fuel in the chambers of the pump (each time) as opposed to when I took it apart for the first time.
The codes went away when you reseated the connector?
 
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spacecowboy

Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2014
Location
Oklahoma
TDI
2k3 Jetta TDI
Well, I'm on the road again ( *High5!* ).

Running out of ideas - Took out the other Viton head seal for inspection (yes I used both), and the Viton was just slightly sheared on one side. Luckily, the bosch replacment kit included another one (green), so for my last attempt I used it. I noticed after stretching it over the injection head, it took a while to slowly regain its original size, so I went inside to eat - maybe good advice to wait a few minutes for the Oring to settle before doing the 2x-screw alternating method. It's possible I didnt let the Oring gain it's original shape the first time, being antsy, started tightening the head, and scythed the edges..

Also, when trying to prime the pump, if I didnt clamp the fuel filter return line (see picture), the vacuum pulled fuel immediately - I'm assuming directly from the fuel filter. So I clamped the line, and could tell the pump primed from the bottom up.
 
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