How to video: On car VE injection pump seal replacement video

[jfwdc]

Job Complete!!

I finished the job with no leaks!! The head seal was challenging and took some time but with the videos, it was no problem. I did have a problem of the seal hanging up on the solenoid and had to move the head up and down to free it . Luckily, I maintained the pressure of the springs and the shim didn't fall out or move. Viewing the seal afterwards, I saw what looked like white string on it. I rotated the seal around and discovered that it was just some grease that turned white with the diesel.

Thanks so much for the videos, I learned a lot about my car!

James

 

[Number6]

Hi, this is great, but I have a question regarding the fuel shutoff solenoid (Video 2, 6:45). I wonder if I messed it up. I loosened it, but didn't remove it, thinking there'd be less chance for dirt to fall in that way. I proceeded to loosen the head screws, and got them to the point where I could just see the head seal starting to show. Decided to remove the solenoid then, but the plastic plunger was stuck. It rotates but doesn't want to pull out. Did I maybe bend it? I then ran the head screws back in and still could not remove the plunger. I considered trying to grab it with needlenose pliers and give it a good yank, but wouldn't that be fun if it broke off inside. Any thoughts?

 

[Ammolacky@yahoo.com]

Info

I just purchased the kit from diesel geek. However, I do not have access to vcds. Is it possible to do all three seals without having vcds. If I need vcds, does anybody no anyone around the Valdosta, GA area. Also, could this leak be causing my limp mode issue. I have posted about my limp mode issue before but I still am getting it. Anyway, thanks for the help. The videos are awesome and will be a big help once I tackle this job. I just don't want to start the job if I need vcds. I guess I will have to break down and buy the one from Ross-Tech.

 

[runonbeer]

Number6, the seal is the only thing preventing you from easily lifting the plunger out. Just tug on it a little and it will come right out. Don't lose the spring.

Ammo, VCDS strongly recommended. Leak is not likely to be related to limp

 

[climbtheplanet]

Ammo-

Follow this link and check the map that is linked too in the first post to see who is close by. There is bound to be someone:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=296841

You need access to vcds in order to verify that that marks you scribe have put your IQ within the designated range and to change it if it is off. If you don't want to buy the cable and can't find someone around that has it, start calling shops and find someone that will charge you a half hour or less to check it. The car needs to be at operating temp to do the IQ and your scribe marks should get you close enough for the car to start and run OK. If a shop can squeeze you in all you will have to do is get the car to temp while driving it to the shop and it will take them 10 minutes to check it. Even if they charge you $50 its better than buying the cable if you really think this is the only time you will use it.

 

[Brenton-TDI]

Thanks for Video!

@Runonbeer

Thank you for these videos. Thanks to you guys, my 02 TDI has a new head seal and lives once again! Greatly appreciated the detail.

 

[jconley]

Finally success. I watched the video at least half a dozen times. Without those videos I could not have done the job without messing up something. I did the top and quantity adjuster seals three times, but was afraid to tackle the head seal. It didn't appear to be leaking. I could never get the car started after priming. I finally decided to tackle the head seal. I started over and followed the video step by step. The head seal was very hard and brittle. It came out in many little chunks. I guess the head was leaking after all. This time a after completing all the steps and priming the pump, the car started right up. After running it for about 10 miles, the vagcom indicated the correct setting without having to make any changes. It shows an indication of 3.6. I guess I got lucky. Car runs great. Only problem now vagcom shows "fuel temp sensor" fault. I did check the fuel temp sensor in a pan of hot water. The resistance does change depending on the temperature of the water. Maybe it's a wiring issue. I don't know what wire goes to the fuel temp sensor. At least the car runs and no leaks. Thanks again for all of your help and videos

 

[rubadub]

Terrydtdi brought my diesel back to life with this. Thanks guys!

 

[Lotus15]

GREAT Post! Thanks.

Is this the cable I need ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VAG-COM-KKL...W-SEAT-Volkswagen-/350766989906#ht_2423wt_983

Or, anybody in Glendale,AZ ?

Randy

 

[runonbeer]

Cable is here www.ross-tech.com

 

[Lotus15]

All installed and no leaks! Thanks again!
Randy

 

[recklessdriver]

Hi runonbeer,

I replaced the three gaskets following your video because the pump was leaking profusely, from the pump head in particular. I would say this was a long-standing condition due to how grimy the oil pan was from the accumulation of fuel/dirt/dust(new-to-me vehicle). The condition is much improved, it no longer drips, however, there is a leak coming from the top-most 5mm allen-head screw on the bracket on the pump head (the area is shiny/wet). Does this mean I messed up the pump head o-ring? I snugged all bolts down to hand tight using a stubby driver.

*edit - ok i saw the exploded diagram for the injection pump (http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/Automatic_Injection_pump_038_130_107_J.pdf)and the M6x25 support bracket hex head bolts do not go all the way through the pump head so it is obviously not the source of leak. Changing gears, I would like to replace the pump head valve/valve keeper gaskets since it appears that there may be some seepage there. Is there anything to worry about in removing the valve/valve keepers?

 

[Beowulf]

Thanks to runonbeer and dieselgeek for creating the video and to everyone who has commented on this thread to add their advice. I'm planning on doing this job next weekend, so doing my research now. I've put together (what I think is) a complete list of tools and parts needed and grouped all 7 videos together in a youtube playlist:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLUNS-IqlfxwCxLPoYGeI_-E_O_dsBkDp1

If you have any comments about tools or parts I missed, please let me know. Parts and tools are also listed below in a more nicely formatted list because I couldn't get the playlist's description on youtube to display line breaks.

Thanks,
Steven

Go here and read the entire thread after watching all 7 TDI-pump-seal videos:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=287336

Tools:
* Razor knife (to scribe Quantity Adjuster (QA) position relative to pump case)
* 1,000,000 rags or plastic bag to cover alternator and catch pan to collect spilled fuel
* Brake parts cleaner (to clean outside of injection pump prior to disassembly)
* wire brush (to clean outside of injection pump prior to disassembly)
* 8 mm combination wrench (to remove wire from fuel shutoff solenoid)
* 24mm socket (to remove fuel shutoff solenoid)
* MN3001 special socket (to remove tamper-proof bolt on injection pump) - http://www.dieselgeek.com/product_p/pmp-mn3001.htm
* T-30 Torx bit (to remove bolts on injection pump top cover, injection pump quantity adjuster cover, injection pump head)
* M6 (5mm) Allen wrench (to remove bolts on injection pump brackets)
* 13mm socket (to remove bolt on rear injection pump bracket)
* 17 mm flared or open end wrench (to loosen injection line nuts)
* cam sprocket holding bar or 19mm 12-point socket (to rotate engine and fuel pump clockwise into "on cam" position where the internal springs in the injection pump are at maximum compression)
* axle grease or Vaseline (to lubricate head o-ring during installation) - http://www.fbs-online.com/Centre/Prod/Viton-chem-com-res.htm
* duct tape (to protect head o-ring from being nicked or dirtied while being stretched over injection pump head)
* Pick (to remove old seals and help seat new pump head o-ring)
* Mirror (to make sure old pump head O-ring has been removed and new pump head O-ring has been properly seated in hard to see portions on bottom and back of injection pump)
* T-10 Torx bit, optional (to remove screws securing fuel temp sensor)
* 24mm tri-socket for TDI pump, optional (to remove the center plug on IP head, this step is not demonstrated in the video but discussed in this tdiclub forum message http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=287336) - http://www.dieselgeek.com/product_p/pmp-24mmsocket.htm
* Mity Vac, Pela Fluid Extractor, or some other vacuum pump (to prime pump after R&R is complete)
* "small" dead-blow hammer (for hammer mod to adjust Injection Quantity (IQ))
online.com/Centre/Prod/Viton-chem-com-res.htm
* VAG-COM software and cable (to view IQ while doing hammer mod) - http://www.ross-tech.com/

Parts:
* Bosch Injection Pump seal kit for TDI - http://www.dieselgeek.com/TDI_Injection_Pump_Seal_Kit_p/pmp-fullkit.htm
* Viton Pump Head O-Ring kit - http://www.dieselgeek.com/Viton_Pump_Head_O_Ring_Seal_Kit_p/pmp-viton.htm
* Fuel Temperature Sensor (FTS), optional - http://www.dieselgeek.com/TDI_Fuel_Temperature_Sensor_p/pmp-fueltemp.htm
* Genuine Bosch 10mm Injection Pump Plug, optional, this plug is located in the center of the head and is reported to be single use; if it's leaking be sure to replace both the plug and the seal; seal/o-ring is included in the Bosch Injection Pump seal kit for TDI - http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1410

 

[runonbeer]

Razor knife needed to scribe QA position relative to pump case

Plastic bag to cover alternator and catch pan to collect spilled fuel (I don't use 1,000,000 rags anymore).

 

[Beowulf]

Thanks for the comments.

 

[blazen71]

Thanks Robby! Did the 3 seals last night with no issues! One tip, I took a 7mm 12-point box end wrench and hammered it on the tamper-proof screw and was able to loosen it. Replaced with an allen head screw! Robby, I'd buy you a beer if you weren't 1000 miles away, lol.

 

[runonbeer]

High five!

That's nice to hear after the day I've had. Tombstone: great movie. Loaded with good quotes. "What's that, 12 in a row? Holiday. Sum***** ain't nobody that lucky!"

 

[blazen71]

High five!
That's nice to hear after the day I've had. Tombstone: great movie. Loaded with good quotes. "What's that, 12 in a row? Holiday. Sum***** ain't nobody that lucky!"

Why Ike, whatever do you mean? Maybe poker's just not your game Ike. I know! Let's have a spelling contest!

 

[runonbeer]

Yep. Kilmer pretty much carried that movie now that I think about it. Haven't actually seen it in at least 15 years.

 

[blazen71]

Definitely Val Kilmer's best movie

 

[oldskool1963vw]

So my pump is leaking. The videos linked at the beginning are great! I have one question though. My pump is only leaking from the top seal and second seal right under that one (the body seal I think its called). My head seal is NOT leaking. I have already replaced the very top seal and that helped a lot. Still have a small leak from the body seal (the next one down). I don't think I need to take all the lines off and all the other stuff in order to get to this seal. Correct? I kinda didn't want to touch the head seal if its not leaking (aint broke, don't fix it...) but part of me also says go ahead and do it while I'm in there.

If I only do the body seal I should be able to leave all the connectors and fuel lines in place. Correct?

 

[runonbeer]

You should do the head seal now. If you wait too long it gets so crispy that it just breaks into little pieces when you try to pull it out. That really complicates things.

 

[oldskool1963vw]

You should do the head seal now. If you wait too long it gets so crispy that it just breaks into little pieces when you try to pull it out. That really complicates things.

yeah....I figured you would say that. Thanks for the reply!

 

[Redman84]

Bump for a great thread. It just saved me several hundred dollars! Thanks a ton!

 

[RLoftin]

Suppose that someone did not get the scribe marks in the right place? The car is a 2001 jetta tdi with 250,000 plus miles with a Malone 1.5 tune. Thanks to this discussion and great videos the seals are all replaced and the fuel system is primed. The engine will start and but the tach heads for the red line as if the rod is not in the collar. This was checked twice and I believe the rod is in the correct place.

What is the next step to get this car back on road?

 

[runonbeer]

Knock the QA to starboard.

 

[RLoftin]

Thanks for the suggestion. It is always good to hear from the expert.

After many attempts, I am about in the same place. When the car starts the engine races for the red line. Sometimes it seems to take a fraction of second longer to reach 4000 rpms before I shut it down. Then with the next tap or few taps to the starboard the engine will not start. I tap back a few times but the first time the engine starts its back to the red line. It did once start and ran at about 500 rpm but had no throttle response.

Is something else a problem or should I continue tapping...

 

[runonbeer]

You are either moving it too far or the rod is not engaged with the collar.

 

[RLoftin]

After 3 more checks that the rod is engaged and hundreds of very small taps, I am still in the same place. When the engine starts the revs climb quickly. I tap the QA to the starboard and try again. I may tap to the starboard 15 times with very little change in the rate of acceleration. Then on the next tap the engine will not start. It takes fewer taps to the port side to get the engine to crank, but once again it is off to the races.

A very few times the engine will crank, rev to 1000 rpms and settle at 500 to 600 for 3 or 4 seconds before stopping. The throttle pedal has no effect on the engine.

I can not believe this would require smaller taps. As many times as I have tapped it seems that random change would have hit the target. What am I missing? Smaller taps?

Apart for the leaking fuel pump, the car was running fine before I changed the gaskets.

 

[prothe]

Have you marked a line on the pump and top/cover to know how far you are tapping? Minor taps shouldn't have that big of an effect. The car's computer can compensate for minor taps.