How to video: On car VE injection pump seal replacement video

vin2K

Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Location
Dallas
TDI
Jetta
Ok it still wont fully prime and I lubed the damn thing up til grease was falling off! What else be slowing the flow of gas?
 

MAXRPM

Veteran Member
Joined
May 7, 2008
Location
US
TDI
00 Jetta and 99.5 Golf, 2015 Passat TDI,BMW 2
are the new seals that they sell now for the pump are all of them made for ULSD standards now?
 
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oldpoopie

Vendor
Joined
May 14, 2001
Location
Portland Oregon
TDI
2001 golf gl, 2006 jetta, 1981 ALH swapped rabbit pickup, 1998 beetle
What about the head plug?

You'll need the funky socket to remove it, but the o-ring in there is a common failure point.
 

vin2K

Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Location
Dallas
TDI
Jetta
You talking about the solenoid switch? The video said you didn't need to replace the o-ring there, although both times mine slipped off of it unlike his staying seated in the video.
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
TDI
'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
Try pinching off the return line to the filter while you pull vacuum on the pump to prime.

If that doesn't work, you can try to gravity fill it with a cut up coke bottle rig but I've never needed to resort to this.
 

vin2K

Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Location
Dallas
TDI
Jetta
The pump is full of gas and I don't see wet spots anywhere on the pump, I don't know what to do.
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
TDI
'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
Air is a gas. Diesel is not a gas. Lets start off on the right nomenclature foot here.

How have you established that your pump is full? I thought we were troubleshooting a no prime issue. :confused:

If your pump is full of fuel, crack the line nuts & crank it.

If it is not full and you cannot prime then my last resort is usually to remove the QA and just pour fuel into the pump case.
 

oldpoopie

Vendor
Joined
May 14, 2001
Location
Portland Oregon
TDI
2001 golf gl, 2006 jetta, 1981 ALH swapped rabbit pickup, 1998 beetle
You talking about the solenoid switch? The video said you didn't need to replace the o-ring there, although both times mine slipped off of it unlike his staying seated in the video.
No, its the plug in the middle of the head. Between the 4 injector lines. It has a smaller plug in its center.

Officially you should replace the whole plug.
 

vin2K

Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Location
Dallas
TDI
Jetta
Sorry, I am getting prime. Its pulling diesel but not at a full flow like yours in the video, mine is coming out very slow with a lot of tiny bubbles and the its more like real fast sips instead of a tube filling flow.
 

vin2K

Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Location
Dallas
TDI
Jetta
Its like its clogged or something it just seems if I start it, the car would run sluggish. I'll get video of it with my phone so you can see what I mean.
 

vin2K

Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Location
Dallas
TDI
Jetta
Well I just went through with the rest of the procedure and the car started right up. My check engine light came on for some reason though. I don't have a VAG ill try to find someone here in the Dallas area to help me set the IQ.
 

oldpoopie

Vendor
Joined
May 14, 2001
Location
Portland Oregon
TDI
2001 golf gl, 2006 jetta, 1981 ALH swapped rabbit pickup, 1998 beetle
Well I just went through with the rest of the procedure and the car started right up. My check engine light came on for some reason though. I don't have a VAG ill try to find someone here in the Dallas area to help me set the IQ.

I find that the pump will pull prime differently depending on where it is rotated. As long as it fills, it should start.
 

POStdi

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2011
Location
Paso Robles, CA
TDI
2003 Jetta wagon
I just pulled this off yesterday in a couple hours. And I'm mechanically inclined, but diesel-inept.
I put the quantity adjuster exactly on my marks, and it started up, jitterbugged like crazy at idle, smooth at throttle, but wanted to run away it felt.
So I knocked the QA a bit further to the pass side than where my marks were, and it seems to run great now.
Thank you so much for the video. My car sat for a week while waiting for the seals; and I had to drive my 42yr old hotrod as my daily again. So, I guess it wasn't too bad...
Saved me a ridiculous amount of money instead of a local shop doing the work, and likely charging a couple grand for a new pump. And my local guru was roadtripping and fixing TDIs too far from here.

I had to laugh at the local VW stealership as they said they don't even mess with the pumps but send them out to a specialty shop.
 

SD26

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2010
Location
WI
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI 5sp, 2002 Jetta TDI 5sp
Used this to seal up my IP. Awesome!
 

SmokeFree

Vendor
Joined
Jan 11, 2010
Location
Easton, PA
TDI
2011 Golf TDI, 2008 Audi A3 2.0T, 2010 Mercedes Sprinter 3500
Thank you POStdi, my car did the same thing, I knocked it a tad more to the pass side and it's idling smooth and running good so far. Thanks!
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
TDI
'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
We are getting some big temperature swings here.

By the way Justin, I discovered that if you give that case pressure plug a light pop with a 5lb sledge it spins out real easy. I know you have that sweet socket but it just makes it easier to break loose. I have had a few that were stuck bad. Just smack straight down on top. I do those seals while the QA is out of the way.
 

Speedster

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2001
Location
Wichita, KS
TDI
2000 NB TDI 5M, 2002 Jetta TDI 5M & 2012 Jetta TDI 6M
I replaced the gaskets in the IP in my 2002 Jetta on Saturday. The engine runs great again, in fact, better than it has in awhile. Thanks to Runonbeer for the link to the youtube video. It was well done and invaluable.
The only quirk that I encountered was that the computer had gone to Immobilizer the day before when I tried to get the car to start in order to move it into the garage. We had to push the car into the garage to get out of the arctic weather here in Kansas. Following the work, I tried to start the car, but the Immobilizer was still blocking the start sequence.:confused:
I connected my Vag-Com and started to see how to code the keys to the computer, which appeared to be the problem per the owners manual. I also connected a battery charger to the battery, which I had replaced only a few days prior and run down slightly. Having gone into the warm house to do more research online, when I came back out, the immobilizer display was gone and all appeared to be normal. The car started right up and I was able to verify that the IQ was 7.8. Using the stick and hammer, I easily changed it to 2.8.
I keep repair and maintenance records in my owners manual, and knew that I had a little over 244,000 miles on the odometer. When I went back out to check the mileage, it read 242,600. I had replaced the battery at 243,850 the prior week per my records. Must have been the trip through Area 51 and rebooting the battery that changed the odometer.:eek: Strange!
I am so pleased with the result that I have ordered gaskets for my wife's 2000 NB, but will replace them when it is a little warmer outside. It is not leaking yet, but surely will another time when it gets so cold.
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
TDI
'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
Make sure to set idle IQ on a fully warm engine with all accessories (such as AC) turned off.

This is especially important on 2000 YM cars that use the BD ECU.
 

climbtheplanet

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 22, 2008
Location
Boulder, CO
TDI
2001 Golf
We had a cold snap this last week in Boulder with lows around -10 deg f. I had already replaced my top seal but my QA seal which had started weeping a bit began to piss fuel after a really rough start (I think my starter has about had it and the cold was nearly too much). I got the middle seal changed today and all is running well.

A few questions:

I still need to find someone in or around Boulder, CO that can trade me a sixer for the use of their vagcom to fine tune the IQ. Does anyone know of an up to date list or locator for finding folks with vagcom in your area? I searched and found some info but everything was broken or out of date.

Also, I read through the thread but didn't come across the torque values for the QA bolts and tamper bolt. I just snugged them down (ratchet head in the palm technique) but I always like to have the exact torque specs. Does anyone know the values for the QA bolts?

Thanks everyone for all the help, once again this club has saved me tons of money and gained me a lot of satisfaction!
 

climbtheplanet

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 22, 2008
Location
Boulder, CO
TDI
2001 Golf
Thanks for the link runonbeer, if this reseal job doesn't work I will call him about replacing my current IP. I'm crossing my fingers that is not necessary.

The car is a 2001 Golf TDI.

So I replaced the QA seal 2 days ago and went back to replace the head seal today. My top seal was replaced a year ago and has been fine since. Everything seems fine with the reseal I did recently but I still seem to have a weep on the front (radiator side). I don't think that it is coming from the QA seal which like I said I just replaced. I checked the junction with a mirror and also by squashing my finger against the transition and my finger comes away dry unlike when the QA was definitely leaking before.

All I know for sure is that the area below the QA on the front of the pump down to the cover circled in the bottom of the photo keeps wetting up dramatically. There is a lot of grime on my pump that makes it really easy to tell which places are wet and even after I dry off that cover it become wet again quickly. I changed the head seal hoping that it was fuel percolating sideways through the grime but it does not seem to have knocked it out.

I'm thinking that the weep could be coming from one of the 2 areas circled if that is even possible (i.e. if those areas even have seals and are physically able to leak fuel).

So my question is can those areas also develop leaks and if so can they also be replaced? If there are seals to be replaced, is it an easy or hard fix compared with the common 3 that I have already replaced?

I have the dieselgeek seal kit so maybe that has what I need in it. I just don't dare proceed without info from someone who knows what will happen if that stuff is unbolted.

Sorry that I don't know that these components are called and feel free to let me know what they are. I tried to look them up but didn't find them marked on any diagram.

Thanks for the help.


 
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Cliffman

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2008
Location
Hollister, Ca
TDI
None Yet!
Thanks for the great video guys! Did my pump over the weekend and I was very impressed with the attention to detail in the video. Somehow I managed to get the timing correct the first time. 3.2 on the VAG-COM. :D Didn't have do the "bump" procedure. :)
 
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