My vagcom came in and I adjusted the IQ to 3.6. When I drove it, it didn't have any power. Push it to the floor and it wouldn't go over 65. Acted like turbo wasn't coming on. I found a vacuum line loose at the tee on the firewall. It was raining so didn't drive it. Started to drive it to work today. It is 33 degrees. It started right up. Backed out of driveway and started to take off and it would sputter and miss like the fuel was being turned off and on. Pushed pedal to floor and it would not accelerate. I had advance the timing 3 degrees with vagcom. Any ideas on what's happening?
How to video: On car VE injection pump seal replacement video
- Thread starter runonbeer
- Start date
Found the problem. I had taken the clamp off the boost inlet at the intake planning on looking inside and doing a cleaning. When the turbo spooled up, it blew the hose off. Since it was laying against the end of the fitting, it took some looking to see what had happened (using a flashlight while it was starting to snow). No fault codes were set by the lack of boost.
whitedog
Veteran Member
Dave, have you contacted Fix-um-haus across the river?
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Did you watch the videos? It's all nuts and bolts (and springs)
I'll bet you can do it. Just follow the procedure carefully.
Otherwise you can buy me a plane ticket. I'll fix it in your driveway.
Losha
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2005
- Location
- Sioux Falls, SD
- TDI
- 06 Jetta TDI DSG, 2001 Golf TDI, Audi S6, A8, Toureg
Agree with RUNONBEER, pretty easy if you follow procedure. Just did another one yesterday, front shaft seal was leaking into TB.
jjcsnlynn
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2007
- Location
- Felton, DE
- TDI
- 02 & 03 Jetta TDI,99 Beetle TDI, 04 Chevy Duramax 2500HD 4x4
I've watched videos 1 and 2 so far, and I noticed you set aside the middle block off the IP. My leak is at that black electrical box. Is there a fix to a leak at that location? See photo link below.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=83601&title=ip-leak&cat=5444
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=83601&title=ip-leak&cat=5444
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
You 'could' do those on the car except the seals are not supplied by Bosch. Which is unfortunate.
Tried to fix the leaking problem in my 2000TDi and installed the site round o-ring succesfully.
The problem was that i couldn't find the right seal kit and used this on instead:
http://www.injection-pump.com/BoschRebuildKit.htm
Now from this i could only use the round green seal which i think
is the same as on this kit:
http://www.dieselgeek.com/TDI_injection_pump_seal_kit_p/pmp-fullkit.htm
RIGHT????
My pump continued to leak and i get fuel in these areas but can't figure out if it's the upper seals OR/AND the side seal.
It has fuel in the front and on that wire at the site/bottom.
If it's leaking on the upper seals i shouldn't see fuel on that wire at the right.
Should i???
The problem was that i couldn't find the right seal kit and used this on instead:
http://www.injection-pump.com/BoschRebuildKit.htm
Now from this i could only use the round green seal which i think
is the same as on this kit:http://www.dieselgeek.com/TDI_injection_pump_seal_kit_p/pmp-fullkit.htm
RIGHT????
My pump continued to leak and i get fuel in these areas but can't figure out if it's the upper seals OR/AND the side seal.
It has fuel in the front and on that wire at the site/bottom.
If it's leaking on the upper seals i shouldn't see fuel on that wire at the right.
Should i???
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
So you bought a kit with the wrong seals, didn't install new seals since you didn't have them and you're asking us why the pump is still leaking?
Try it again with the right parts:
http://www.dieselgeek.com/TDI_injection_pump_s/1827.htm
Try it again with the right parts:
http://www.dieselgeek.com/TDI_injection_pump_s/1827.htm
NO...my question is whether the leak could be also on the site which i already changed the o-ring or just the upper which leaks already and i know what caused it.
AND whether the round seal is the same...if that's OK then i might not have to disassemble the thing again on the risky site!
PLUS if i change the upper seals and then i discover that the site seal already changed is leaking again...will i be able to open up and install that only OR the upper seals will start leaking again because the seals will be already pressed???
Losha
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2005
- Location
- Sioux Falls, SD
- TDI
- 06 Jetta TDI DSG, 2001 Golf TDI, Audi S6, A8, Toureg
Save yourself a future hassle and unexpected no starting issue or leaks. Buy a seal kit from Dieselgeek or go to your local Bosch authorized Diesel service center and buy seal kit from them and following, procedure that is posted above and replace all those seals at once. Then go buy yourself a dinner and enjoy your leak free TDi.
B100
Veteran Member
"site"Would really hope to go around that site one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I almost
whitedog
Veteran Member
Side??"site"
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
High five davej
Why didn't you also do the head seal? I'm sure you'll have to deal with it someday. That's why I just do ALL of them at once.
Only had the Bosch kit and not the viton seal. The leak was so bad I couldn't stand the smell. The quantity adjuster was always soaked in diesel so I knew the uppers were the worse culprits. I figured get em done, wait a week or so and then run some florescent dye thru it. If the lower appears to be leaking then I would order the right viton seal and have at er'.
Ordered the right seals and changed them all...again.
Job was easier than the first time...BUT i now found a new leak...or a leak that existed but could see it clearly because of the top and side seals leaking at the same time.
It's the large brass bolt from the side...circled in red in the picture.(NOT the black 12mm bolt in the center)
Is there an easy way to change this or when removed it messes up the internals?
Job was easier than the first time...BUT i now found a new leak...or a leak that existed but could see it clearly because of the top and side seals leaking at the same time.
It's the large brass bolt from the side...circled in red in the picture.(NOT the black 12mm bolt in the center)
Is there an easy way to change this or when removed it messes up the internals?
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
You need a special tool to remove it. The o-ring is in the Bosch kit. New seal is black, old seal is red.
The tool can be made using a standard 6 point 15/16" 1/2" drive socket with 3 of the points milled out.
The plug is made of steel, not brass.
I replace this seal whenever I do a pump.
The tool can be made using a standard 6 point 15/16" 1/2" drive socket with 3 of the points milled out.
The plug is made of steel, not brass.
I replace this seal whenever I do a pump.
Last edited:
Where can i buy the correct plug tool? IF i can't make one out...
15/16" would be 24mm in metric right?
As a quick fix i used some red sealant(silicone) and put around that plug...it seams to be holding just fine for now...don't know for how long though.
Finally after rebuilding for a second time i have NO leaks from the other seals.
I do have to mention though that the round green one...although was new from the first attempt...it seemed that while screwing the side back in i did cut a bit from that round o-ring from misalignment but had no leaks...
That was the most difficult part of the fix.
If someone could let us know how far out that side block can come out before disaster strikes would be much appreciated.
15/16" would be 24mm in metric right?
As a quick fix i used some red sealant(silicone) and put around that plug...it seams to be holding just fine for now...don't know for how long though.
Finally after rebuilding for a second time i have NO leaks from the other seals.
I do have to mention though that the round green one...although was new from the first attempt...it seemed that while screwing the side back in i did cut a bit from that round o-ring from misalignment but had no leaks...
That was the most difficult part of the fix.
If someone could let us know how far out that side block can come out before disaster strikes would be much appreciated.
Last edited:
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
That socket is not being made right now.
Jim Royston made the one that I use and he said that he is going to have some more made up but so far not yet.
You take the plug all the way out. It's relatively safe to remove but you're dealing with the end of the plunger here and as such you should be mindful of the shim on the other end.
Jim Royston made the one that I use and he said that he is going to have some more made up but so far not yet.
You take the plug all the way out. It's relatively safe to remove but you're dealing with the end of the plunger here and as such you should be mindful of the shim on the other end.
whitedog
Veteran Member
Here is a picture of the head.
Maybe that will give you an idea of what you are after here for the ehad seal and the plug seal.
Maybe that will give you an idea of what you are after here for the ehad seal and the plug seal.
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
You're right. I've pulled that plug 50 times and never had an issue.
BUT you do keep compression in the system...right?
Just want to do it as you do step by step so that i don't mess things up.
After 150miles today...silicone does the job for now and i think i will let it there for now until it starts leaking.
What is that plug used for...access to the side during disassemble??
Just want to do it as you do step by step so that i don't mess things up.
After 150miles today...silicone does the job for now and i think i will let it there for now until it starts leaking.
What is that plug used for...access to the side during disassemble??
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
You don't need to compress the springs.
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
It's not reverse thread, it's pretty tight. I use my 15" long 1/2" drive ratchet on it.