How to video: On car VE injection pump seal replacement video

[Tankthecarman]

Runonbeer, Yes I did the seal replacement in 40-45 degree weather. I used an abundance of dielectric grease on the o-ring, but didn’t lube the head areas. I will try again...Hopefully it’s as simple as an abraided seal. Do you have a part number and a preferred source for the black head seal? I got a green one in my BOSCH kit. I would like to try again with an upgraded seal/o-ring if one exists. BTW, the link you provided didn’t work. I’m assuming there is a video on YouTube covering the Head Plug Seal? I just don’t want to screw something up I can’t fix!
Thanks again,
Tank

 

[Tankthecarman]

Runonbeer, I never even noticed there were 25 pages of this thread! I feel like a total noob! I have ordered the (correct and upgraded) Viton head seals from DieselGeek and will read the remaining 20 pages I skipped to see about the head plug seal. BTW, DieselGeek says the torque on the head bolts is 10-14 Newton Meters...in case anyone else is a “stickler” to use their discriptive adjective.
Thanks again,
Tank

 

[BeetleDragon737]

I'm going to be resealing my IP this weekend on my Beetle. Thanks runonbeer for the tutorial. It's still helping others years later.

Question though - I haven't seen my pump leak (and my car is at a different location at the moment), so all I know is my shop said it's "leaking everywhere". If that's the case, I want to replace as many seals as possible. Without looking at the pump, it's hard to understand why the injection pump timing sensor (as named in this video, which is a good watch in addition to runonbeer's) is difficult to reach.

This thing:


I want to replace the o-rings on that too. Are there any difficulties I might run into taking that off?

Also, I could theoretically record the whole process to update the video, as I have some video experience. However, I don't have a ton of diesel experience, so I feel that I'm not really the person for the job. haha

 

[JETaah]

I'm going to be resealing my IP this weekend on my Beetle. Thanks runonbeer for the tutorial. It's still helping others years later.

Question though - I haven't seen my pump leak (and my car is at a different location at the moment), so all I know is my shop said it's "leaking everywhere". If that's the case, I want to replace as many seals as possible. Without looking at the pump, it's hard to understand why the injection pump timing sensor (as named in this video, which is a good watch in addition to runonbeer's) is difficult to reach.

This thing:


I want to replace the o-rings on that too. Are there any difficulties I might run into taking that off?

The two orings on the N108 valve shown are not accessible due to the ALH's accessory mounting bracket shielding the valve. The pump would have to be removed from the engine bracket to remove the valve and replace the seals.
Many time I have removed that set of orings and they are still supple but just this past weekend I ran into one pump where the rings have lost their elasticity and did not remove in one piece.

 

[BeetleDragon737]

Thanks for the info.

If it's still leaking after I change all the other seals, is there a good tutorial on how to get the pump out and back, setting it to the proper timing and all?

 

[jokila]

Thanks for the info.

If it's still leaking after I change all the other seals, is there a good tutorial on how to get the pump out and back, setting it to the proper timing and all?

Read the part in the timing belt how-to where you set the engine to TDC and install the indexing tools. Then, you can remove the the pump. When you go to put it back on, you would read the part where the timing belt is being installed and setting the tension on the tensioner.

 

[runonbeer]

BeetleDragon,
If you want to drive down to Chapel Hill next Friday I could do your pump seals while you film it. I will have another car here getting the same job so we could do two takes!

I realize it is not practical but I’m throwing it out there. Crazier things have happened. Maybe we could get jimbote to make the trip up so that we will keep the tradition of having a really smart person named Jim present during the recording.

 

[Fahrvegnugen]

I’d drive down to see it myself but since I can’t ...video would be great ! I’m sure my pump will pop since I’m thinking about it and If I’m unable to reseal the thing myself I’d just buy an 11mm replacement. Not a fun idea to me.

 

[sandy]

I have watched the how to video on this head seal replacement. It is very well done. Two thumbs up.... I have also seen the write up on Dieselgeeks site and have some concerns on a statement he makes. " Please note that the 1Z and AHU engines have shorter internal springs and are statistically more likely to allow parts to fall out of place during the head seal procedure. The internal springs of the ALH engine are longer and there is never any free play inside the pump unless you pull the head out too far. "
The pump that I'm looking to reseal is on an AHU. Any imput?

 

[runonbeer]

He’s right. You just need to make sure that you’re at the very apex of the camplate and also that you don’t back the head out too far. I have done this several times on AUH engines without problem but you may want to also look into the methods used by other people on here who just trap the camplate (and rollers) in the pump body and pull the head all the way out of the pump. I’ve never tried it that way but I watched oldpoopie do it in his garage once. Seemed to work just fine.

 

[runonbeer]

I have seen 1Z pumps with BROKEN plunger springs. I have a post about this on here somewhere

 

[sandy]

I did the top 2 seals on the car and it went very smooth. Had to make a small adjustment on the quantity adjuster. It was all good.
Hoping that would cure the leak but still weeps from the head seal.
Not comfortable doing this part on the car. Being here in Atlantic Canada the pump is way too dirty and rusty. Think it would be better on the bench mounted in an old bracket. Better to see and easier to get clean.
Was also wondering with the pump off the car and stood on end with the head facing up, could it be removed and reinstalled without complications?

 

[Votblindub]

Thank you, runonbeer for making the thread.
I had a leak in my injection pump on the white car. I had to have it swapped for another one due to time constraints, but I did buy the seals for it well enough in advance, thinking I'd get to doing the steps. It had to be replaced sooner than anticipated, so i had to go for a swap in order to drive the car right away.
Now, I have an 11mm pump sitting and waiting for me to go through the steps and learn. I don't think it's trashed, it just leaks. Other than installing it on a car and driving it, is there another way to test it on a bench?

 

[52172]

Has anyone tried adding atf to the fuel tank to stop the leak? If so how much?

 

[AndyBees]

Has anyone tried adding atf to the fuel tank to stop the leak? If so how much?

Unless ATF causes the seals to swell, it will not stop the leaks. Bio-diesel would be the best thing to try. However, as I understand, it will eventually make the leaks worse.

You need to delve into the re-seal procedure or farm it out!

 

[52172]

Yep ordering the 3 things from diesel geek. Def not letting her go out on pump seals. ��

 

[52172]

10-4 ordering the first 3 from Diesel Geek and replacing two top seals first and then reevaluating from there.

 

[valvecrusher]

ok,

I can't get the '03 Beetle to start after replacing all three seals....

When it is hit/miss trying to run, but not....it does respond to the pedal....it just never starts to run normally...




EDIT: Got it running, and now to test it for leaks!
Thanks, RunonBeer for the great full detail video...

 

[AGTDI]

Just completed this job this weekend; piece of cake with the video and this thread.
Threw the QA back on and was sitting right at 4....bumped it down to ~3.5.
No more stinky car and stinky garage.

@runonbeer : if you ever find yourself on the central coast of CA, lunch, dinner, beer are on me.

 

[Sting]

I just did this yesterday following your video series. 100% fantastic and accurate. After watching a few different ones, this one seemed the most straight forward. Also, pretty much covers doing all the seals at once except the center plug - totally worth doing you're already in there.

Felt very confident doing it. The only snag I had was the upper left bolt for the QA was very seized in. Finally got it out but has to replace the bolt as the head ended up getting completely stripped. The rest came out beautifully for a 20 year old car. Otherwise, it went just like the video. Lucky me, the pump was already on cam pretty much. Assembly went well and despite only doing the rudimentary markings, it was pretty much on the spot as far as the IQ. Just needed a very light tap and after a day, it's running consistently at about 3.6 to 3.8. Seems a bit smoother now than before.

Thanks so much for posting this. Now I just have to work up the courage for the timing belt... It's a very different beast than my old E30 Eta.

 

[runonbeer]

High five!

 

[J_dude]

Now I just have to work up the courage for the timing belt... It's a very different beast than my old E30 Eta.

It’s not so bad after you’ve done it once, though I admit I too thought it looked like quite a chore at first.

 

[runonbeer]

I did the top 2 seals on the car and it went very smooth. Had to make a small adjustment on the quantity adjuster. It was all good.
Hoping that would cure the leak but still weeps from the head seal.
Not comfortable doing this part on the car. Being here in Atlantic Canada the pump is way too dirty and rusty. Think it would be better on the bench mounted in an old bracket. Better to see and easier to get clean.
Was also wondering with the pump off the car and stood on end with the head facing up, could it be removed and reinstalled without complications?

This is how I did this job the very first time on an 86 Jetta I used to have. I screwed it to a block of wood and changed the head seal while sitting on my back porch.

 

[Sting]

It’s not so bad after you’ve done it once, though I admit I too thought it looked like quite a chore at first.

Well I just looked at DBWs article... I mean yes lots of pics, but 118 pages. I doubt that even with good pics, my E30 procedure would have topped 30 pages. I think I might just stick with the pros on that job.

 

[volmaniac]

Good driver side plug tool how to (post 7)

Fuel injection pump plug seal?

Hi, There's a plug on the drivers end of my '99 ALH tdi injector pump that just started leaking. It's a little over an inch in diameter and needs a three sided socket for removal. Has a smaller hex bolt in it's center. I need to know if removing it will disturb anything, and I need to know...

forums.tdiclub.com

Plugs at Cascade German

Injection Pump Plug

 

[Nuje]

Sourced the Viton o-ring locally (61.60 x 2.62 mm, AS568A-143) and successfully installed it!

Based on this information from way back in 2015, I found a three-pack of the head seal available at AliX for $10.
While Viton® is the brand name for the type of "rubber" used, FKM is the "generic" abbreviation for fluoroelastomer.

I looked locally, but being in a small-town, getting anything like this in a reasonable time frame is....unreasonable to even request. Even the Bosch kit took a couple weeks to get here.
My first attempt at replacing the head seal resulted in leakage; so I'm taking the pump off the car (was due for TB anyway) and doing it on the bench where I can get better access cleaning things up. Don't really wanna pay $30 again for the whole kit when I only need the one seal, so for $10, this 3pk should give me some room for error.

One question: Is TDC on the pump (where it's pinned for setting the TB tension) "high" on one of the cam lobes? So, if I pin the pump same as when doing the TB, would that keep me at max compression on the inner workings?
(And sorry if this is answered elsewhere in this thread....tl;dr all 12+ pages.)

 

[oldpoopie]

Based on this information from way back in 2015, I found a three-pack available at AliX for $10.
While Viton® is the brand name for the type of "rubber" used, FKM is the "generic" abbreviation for fluoroelastomer.

I looked locally, but being in a small-town, getting anything like this in a reasonable time frame is....unreasonable to request. Even the Bosch kit took a couple weeks to get here.
My first attempt at replacing the head seal resulted in leakage; so I'm taking the pump off the car (was due for TB anyway) and doing it on the bench where I can get better access cleaning things up. Don't really wanna pay $30 again for the whole kit when I only need the one seal, so for $10, this 3pk should give me some room for error.

One question: Is TDC on the pump (where it's pinned for setting the TB tension) "high" on one of the cam lobes? So, if I pin the pump same as when doing the TB, would that keep me at max compression on the inner workings?
(And sorry if this is answered elsewhere in this thread....tl;dr all 12+ pages.)

If you are removing the pump you can fully remove the pump head by turning the pump vertical. therefore there is no worry about the pump falling apart internally if you back the pump head off too far. Tdc is of no concern then.

 

[Nuje]

If you are removing the pump you can fully remove the pump head by turning the pump vertical. therefore there is no worry about the pump falling apart internally if you back the pump head off too far. Tdc is of no concern then.

"Fully remove".... as in, take the head right off? Or just as in "remove far enough to get at the seal"?

 

[STDOUBT]

Nuje,
Have a look here:

leaking injection pump

well my pump has started to leak. I replaced the top seal but that didn't fix the problem . so I'm wondering who might be willing to replace the other seals if I remove and ship the pump to them. thx

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[[486]]

If you are removing the pump you can fully remove the pump head by turning the pump vertical. therefore there is no worry about the pump falling apart internally if you back the pump head off too far. Tdc is of no concern then.

you do want to avoid getting the camplate 180 deg out when putting it back in there, though
ask me how I know rofl