runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Did you also replace the head plug seal discussed earlier in this thread?
How to video: On car VE injection pump seal replacement video
- Thread starter runonbeer
- Start date
Mantis8585
Member
No, maybe thats my issue?
Mantis8585
Member
Thanks RunonBeers, took a grinder to a 15/16 impact socket and fashioned me a tamper proof tool. I threw in the new Oring on the Plug seal and no more leak. I replaced the pump head Oring 3 times trying to fix this leak. ;'( I can now do it under an hour blindfolded. xD xD
GdB
Veteran Member
Injection pump front seal kit?
I have a leak on the injection pump front seal with the little black plastic cover, 4 bolts and a wire bundle:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=4381399&highlight=front+kit#post4381399
I also have a leak in the top cover. Which seal kits do I need to fix these leaks?
http://www.dieselgeek.com/TDI_injection_pump_reseal_parts_s/1827.htm
Bosch Injection Pump Seal Kit for TDI
Viton Pump Head O-Ring Seal Kit
I have a leak on the injection pump front seal with the little black plastic cover, 4 bolts and a wire bundle:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=4381399&highlight=front+kit#post4381399
I also have a leak in the top cover. Which seal kits do I need to fix these leaks?
http://www.dieselgeek.com/TDI_injection_pump_reseal_parts_s/1827.htm
Bosch Injection Pump Seal Kit for TDI
Viton Pump Head O-Ring Seal Kit
Thanks for the link runonbeer, if this reseal job doesn't work I will call him about replacing my current IP. I'm crossing my fingers that is not necessary.
The car is a 2001 Golf TDI.
So I replaced the QA seal 2 days ago and went back to replace the head seal today. My top seal was replaced a year ago and has been fine since. Everything seems fine with the reseal I did recently but I still seem to have a weep on the front (radiator side). I don't think that it is coming from the QA seal which like I said I just replaced. I checked the junction with a mirror and also by squashing my finger against the transition and my finger comes away dry unlike when the QA was definitely leaking before.
All I know for sure is that the area below the QA on the front of the pump down to the cover circled in the bottom of the photo keeps wetting up dramatically. There is a lot of grime on my pump that makes it really easy to tell which places are wet and even after I dry off that cover it become wet again quickly. I changed the head seal hoping that it was fuel percolating sideways through the grime but it does not seem to have knocked it out.
I'm thinking that the weep could be coming from one of the 2 areas circled if that is even possible (i.e. if those areas even have seals and are physically able to leak fuel).
So my question is can those areas also develop leaks and if so can they also be replaced? If there are seals to be replaced, is it an easy or hard fix compared with the common 3 that I have already replaced?
I have the dieselgeek seal kit so maybe that has what I need in it. I just don't dare proceed without info from someone who knows what will happen if that stuff is unbolted.
Sorry that I don't know that these components are called and feel free to let me know what they are. I tried to look them up but didn't find them marked on any diagram.
Thanks for the help.
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Are you sure? A lot of people have mistakenly concluded that those seals are leaking only to discover that it was actually the top or middle seals (like it always is).
The wiring box seals are not available from Bosch (or anyone) and not at all easy to change. Practically impossible.
The lower gasket shown, for the timing piston is Bosch # 1461074328 and it is not contained in the general bosch IP seal kit that you linked to.
I am sitting here looking at a stack of 3 of these that I have had for years and years and years and years because they are just never needed.
Incidentally, the gasket for the seal plate on the opposite end of the timing piston is Bosch # 1461038319. Same deal. Have a bunch. Have never needed them.
Unless they are removed there is no reason that they would suddenly begin leaking. They're like the paper coated MLS gaskets for the EGR and other places.
If indeed the wiring junction box seals are leaking then it would be impossible to conclude that the timing piston gasket is also leaking since it is directly beneath the junction box.
The wiring box seals are not available from Bosch (or anyone) and not at all easy to change. Practically impossible.
The lower gasket shown, for the timing piston is Bosch # 1461074328 and it is not contained in the general bosch IP seal kit that you linked to.
I am sitting here looking at a stack of 3 of these that I have had for years and years and years and years because they are just never needed.
Incidentally, the gasket for the seal plate on the opposite end of the timing piston is Bosch # 1461038319. Same deal. Have a bunch. Have never needed them.
Unless they are removed there is no reason that they would suddenly begin leaking. They're like the paper coated MLS gaskets for the EGR and other places.
If indeed the wiring junction box seals are leaking then it would be impossible to conclude that the timing piston gasket is also leaking since it is directly beneath the junction box.
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GdB
Veteran Member
Thanks for the reply! Well I ordered the dieselgeek kits, and I hope it's not the impossible seal. You are possibly correct, as I think I saw the top seal leaking also.
Nevada_TDI
Top Post Dawg
I'm with runonbeer; what looks like the connector cover leaking very likely is not.
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
GdB
Veteran Member
I'm not surprised a lot of tdi'ers are going to EV's. I ordered over the web, no chance to talk EV's yet. I so much prefer riding the E-moto in LA than a car, but CHP seems to target bike's more, sucks!
UPDATE on my injection pump leak fix:
So it started and ran fine BEFORE the leak repair procedure I followed carefully in the video.
After changing the 3 big seals, and priming the pump, filter, and injectors, I noticed no more leaking on the pump, and the injectors quickly primed.
Also I was a bit concerned about that shim dropping, so disassembled a spare pump I have to make sure. I noticed a useful way to verify if the shim drops partially, the gap between the cam and thing to left will be more than 1.5mm. I should have taken a picture. But I'm sure my shim stayed in place.
But now i will not start, it just cranks....!
I tried priming the pump again to make sure.
I am an experienced mechanic and did this very meticulously, so i am perplexed.
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Did you disconnect the 10 pin? Cut-off solenoid nut tight? How about the QA marks? Lined up? Sometimes if the marks are way off and the QA is too far to the right then it takes a heck of a lot of cranking to start.
GdB
Veteran Member
Thanks runonbeer!
I learned how to do the hammer mod, with my vagcom hooked up...
To get an idea how much movement, I also measured betwee the solenoid wire nut and pump head with a digital caliper. The wire nut position affects this number, but the relative change I measured 1.1mm (from 18.2 to 17.1mm) after hammering to the right to get the IQ from ~30-40 down to 3.4.
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runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
No surprise that it would have a hard time starting at 30-40. Question is, how were you able to observe those values without the engine running? It is normal for IQ to ramp up while cranking. In the absence of a start up it will roll all the way to maximum which is around 35-38 stock.
I assume it starts fine now?
I assume it starts fine now?
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
I see your white paint marks. As you have discovered, paint does not allow adequate resolution for such a critical relative position. But as you have also discovered, it is very easy to correct with the proper tool. And that is NOT a reference to the vernier caliper.
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runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Also, you stated that
I believe that you hammered to the LEFT or away from the timing belt, yes?
GdB
Veteran Member
digital caliper!
R, L, perspective...? OK, all that is confusing, I hamered the IP toward the driver side.
Yes my white paint (whiteout) was not very useful. The video was very helpful, except it was so grainy, I made my scratch marks in the wrong place, across the mold line. Anyway scratch marks are hard to do and read, so if had to do it again, I would use my digital caliper method to quickly re-position the IP dead on the correct IQ.
R, L, perspective...? OK, all that is confusing, I hamered the IP toward the driver side.
Yes my white paint (whiteout) was not very useful. The video was very helpful, except it was so grainy, I made my scratch marks in the wrong place, across the mold line. Anyway scratch marks are hard to do and read, so if had to do it again, I would use my digital caliper method to quickly re-position the IP dead on the correct IQ.
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
R & L standard perspective is as though you are seated in the car facing forward. We should probably use Starboard & Port (or Larboard if you're Herman Mellville) but nobody does.
Yes the video quality sucks. Anyone in North Carolina want to volunteer to help remake them? I don't have the equipment or production skills obviously.
Yes the video quality sucks. Anyone in North Carolina want to volunteer to help remake them? I don't have the equipment or production skills obviously.
RoundHouse
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
- Location
- Ga USA
Bump for good info
My IP is dripping
Trying to work up the courage to do this
My IP is dripping
Trying to work up the courage to do this
FJ40Jim
Veteran Member
I did it a couple weeks ago. Used the PDF document & common sense. got it done in 2 hrs, taking my time and cleaning as I went.
Buy the pump seal kit and the Viton o-ring and just do eet!
Buy the pump seal kit and the Viton o-ring and just do eet!
LegalRod
Well-known member
Great Video
I just finished my seal using this video and it was a lot of help. Their step by step instructions is awesome. The only thing I have to add is that the green seal on the kit is not designed to be stretched. I ended up having to order a Viton seal from Dieselgeeks. Other than having to wait for the seal, the repair was a success.
Thanks TDIClub for being there with easy to follow instructions in all related to our beloved TDIs.
I just finished my seal using this video and it was a lot of help. Their step by step instructions is awesome. The only thing I have to add is that the green seal on the kit is not designed to be stretched. I ended up having to order a Viton seal from Dieselgeeks. Other than having to wait for the seal, the repair was a success.
Thanks TDIClub for being there with easy to follow instructions in all related to our beloved TDIs.
Tankthecarman
Well-known member
Runonbeer, I watched the videos and have replaced the seal. My VAGCOM has me at 3.0, but it’s only “Good-n-tight”. Do you have torque specs for the block to pump body? Also, my replacement seal is green as opposed to black. It’s right out of the BOSCH kit. Is this a reason for concern? I can PM pics...
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
High five!
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Torque sped aren’t published by Bosch. All of your questions are discussed here in this thread
Tankthecarman
Well-known member
I watched the YouTube videos and bought the special socket, VAGCOM and even a dedicated vacuum pump for the job. Ordered a BOSCH seal kit and performed the repair. My problem now is that it’s leaking just as badly and appears to be coming from the “Head” bolt at the 7 o’clock position. I’m frustrated by this apparent failure. Any help and advice is desperately sought and will be eagerly awaited!
Thanks in advance!
Tank
Thanks in advance!
Tank
RoundHouse
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
- Location
- Ga USA
Wow
High five !
Thanks for the vids ! ! !
I would never have attempted this without em
My son and I did the seals this afternoon in the freezing cold and after dark
In about two / three hours
Bought the Bosch seals and the viton Oring and triangle socket
Changed the seals
Used a mighty vac and couldn’t get much fuel but
Cracked the injector lines and was getting squirts
Cranked right up
Big splash cause I forgot to tighten down the 4 top cover bolts
I forgot to order the vag com and broke the dipstick tube even though it was only a couple years old
No way to check the IQ but it fires right up , idles good and revs good when you step on the pedal
Have not driven it yet
Is it safe to drive for a few miles till the vag com arrives ?
Now if There’s some vids regarding replacing the clutch and CV boots .....
High five !
Thanks for the vids ! ! !
I would never have attempted this without em
My son and I did the seals this afternoon in the freezing cold and after dark
In about two / three hours
Bought the Bosch seals and the viton Oring and triangle socket
Changed the seals
Used a mighty vac and couldn’t get much fuel but
Cracked the injector lines and was getting squirts
Cranked right up
Big splash cause I forgot to tighten down the 4 top cover bolts
I forgot to order the vag com and broke the dipstick tube even though it was only a couple years old
No way to check the IQ but it fires right up , idles good and revs good when you step on the pedal
Have not driven it yet
Is it safe to drive for a few miles till the vag com arrives ?
Now if There’s some vids regarding replacing the clutch and CV boots .....
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runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Did you replace the head plug seal discussed earlier in this thread?
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
High Five Roundhouse.
Sounds like you’re ok to drive it until you can get it checked. You’d know it if it were not an acceptable setting. It would either barely be able to idle or it would hardly want to start and be gutless.
Sounds like you’re ok to drive it until you can get it checked. You’d know it if it were not an acceptable setting. It would either barely be able to idle or it would hardly want to start and be gutless.
RoundHouse
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
- Location
- Ga USA
Tankthecarman
Well-known member
Runonbeer,
I did not replace that seal. I see that someone else had a leak there and modified a standard 12pt socket to remove the plug. Are there any additional precautions? Is there anything else in there that might spring out or fall and be lost forever?
Thanks in Advance,
Tank
JETaah
Vendor , w/Business number
Did you try to do this work in the cold weather?
The seals are not as pliable in the cold and it is easy to get them pinched during an install. Also, putting some grease on the surfaces and the o ring helps greatly to ease the rings into place.
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
The plug seal is mentioned and discussed many times throughout this very discussion thread. Here is one instance but it comes up again and again
It’s a 6point socket that you’ll need.
It also seems plausible that you have pinched the head seal. It’s very important to use a good mirror and a good light to see the underside of the pump head during the job to make sure that it is dropped all the way into its groove and not snagged up on the top of theN108 timing valve This will result in a major leak that is many times worse than it originally was.