How to video: On car VE injection pump seal replacement video

[Qui-Gon_Gene]

Head plug question...

Hi y'all! The TDIClub community has saved me yet again with this thread. My IP has started leaking fuel like crazy from one or both of the QA seals, so I've watched the video, and I'm about to order the seals and triangular socket. I think I'm pretty clear on almost everything, but I could use a little clarification on the part not covered in the video.
I don't think that my head plug is leaking, but I can't be 100% sure about it because of all the fuel coming from the bad QA seal. If I go ahead and replace the 2 QA seals and the head seal (just like in the video), can I just ignore the head plug and seal for now and replace them separately, later on? Does the pump need to be on-cam to replace the head plug? Basically, I just want to know if I should do the head plug and seal at the same time as the rest, even though I don't know that it's leaking, or if I can wait to see if it's okay, and replace them later if necessary? I don't want to fix what's not broken, but I don't want to make more work for myself down the road either, and I don't want to take the QA loose more than once! lol

Meanwhile, I know just enough about fixing vehicles to be dangerous, and that video is priceless to people such as myself. Thanks a bunch to the guys that made it, because I would probably be hauling my Jetta to a local TDI mechanic right now without it!

 

[Twin_Guns18]

Thanks so much for the videos. I just finished the job and everything worked out perfectly. I think I fixed all the leaks. However, if I'm still leaking diesel, what could be the cause?

 

[Twin_Guns18]

I hooked the car up to VAGCOM last night and I before making any changes, I was at 4.2mg/stroke. Made the adjustment to 3 and now I'm ready to roll!

 

[need4speed]

If you do this repair; don't forget to clean out the harness connector on that pump! If there is fuel (or crud) in there, you will get all kinds of weird behavior/codes. (this happened to me; the fuel came out of the pump when I took it apart, or maybe when I bled it after reassembly, and it ran down the wires into the connector). Spray some QD cleaner in there, then some of that silicone dielectric grease.

When this happened to me, I thought I had screwed up the rebuild somehow, and I was really confused by what my motor was doing, and the codes I was getting. I was definitely getting a flashing-glow-plug light; and the problem had NOTHING to do with the glow-plugs.

 

[runonbeer]

Just don't ever disconnect it. It is unnecessary.

The only thing I disconnect is the oil pressure switch and that's just to make it easier to get a plastic bag situated beneath the pump to "direct" the fuel spill away from the alternator & coolant hoses to the catch pan on the ground. A lot of fuel comes out. It's not sensible to use rags to soak it all up. Just let it fall.

 

[markd89]

My 1Z pump in my 78 bus has started leaking.

From my paper-towel diagnosis, it appears to be from the head seal. Curiously, the leaking seems to occur when the engine has been off for a while rather than when running. i.e. When I come back to it after it's been parked I have spilled fuel.

In my application, the fuel level may be above the pump. Does it make sense, that the fuel is siphoning through and leaking out from that spot?

Thanks much,
Mark

 

[surg7498]

runonbeer and diesel geek thanks so much for the videos, I never got to the point in the thread to realize you did things differently now from the videos but I did 95% exactly as shown and it fired back up without shuttering or anything. the 5% I have not done is the VagCom part being that i don't have one. How crucial is this step? Could the values be rather off and the car still run just fine? Would I notice it in MPG or some other way?

Anyone in the San Antonio are have VagCom they wouldn't mind hooking up just to double check my work?

Thanks again for the great information and videos!!

 

[markd89]

My 1Z pump in my 78 bus has started leaking.

From my paper-towel diagnosis, it appears to be from the head seal. Curiously, the leaking seems to occur when the engine has been off for a while rather than when running. i.e. When I come back to it after it's been parked I have spilled fuel.

In my application, the fuel level may be above the pump. Does it make sense, that the fuel is siphoning through and leaking out from that spot?

Correction here. I seem to be leaking from the head area when the temperature is cold - that seems to be the variable which has been happening overnight recently. I'm suspecting that something is contracting a little with the cold/expanding with heat. I do have the parts on order from dieselgeek. The volume spilled last night looks like about 1/4 cup.

 

[runonbeer]

markd89, yes you need pump seals.

surg7498,
I'm up in Austin. I can set up your IQ for you. I'll be back in the shop next week. Takes about 10 minutes. Please call ahead.

 

[markd89]

I watched all the videos. Thanks for making something that would be pretty intimidating look very do-able.

Two questions:

1. I'm assuming the steps are the same for the 1Z pump?
2. If I want to replace the anti-tamper bolt with a regular one, can you tell me the dimensions so I have one ready?

Thanks again!
Mark

 

[runonbeer]

Just buy the tool and put that bolt back in.

 

[turbotbirds]

Great videos and great advice! I just got done doing my IQ seals as the bottom one was leaking. The head seal is not leaking, so I decided to not tackle that one today since it seems to be a little more finicky on the repair. Thanks!

 

[runonbeer]

Way to not take my advice. I guess you'll want to bookmark the YouTube links because you'll be doing the entire job over again probably next year when the head seal leaves you stranded

 

[Vince Waldon]

....and this is because the internal pump pressure gets north of 100 psi..and that amount of pressure is famous for finding the next weakest seal, and the next weakest seal, and the next...

 

[markd89]

I followed the videos and things went pretty well, but I think I have an electrical issue causing the injectors not to supply fuel. Right now I am not running.

I started a new thread here http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=4707766#post4707766
so as not to make a mess out of this one.

I'd appreciate any advise.

Thanks!
Mark

 

[white95v6]

just did leaky pump yesterday. so far its leak free.

thanks for the great video.

 

[TDI852]

Priming issue

I have also successfully replaced the 2 pump gaskets and the head O-ring mentioned in the video and as well as Diesel Geeks Web site! Thanks SO MUCH, for putting the video's together. I am back on the road with no leaks on the Injection Pump.
I will mention that I did do my O-ring twice because I could not get my IP to prime. After the 2nd ring install, it still would not prime with the method shown in the video. What I had to do was disconnect the thick return line the goes back to the fuel filter and plug the return port of the Injection Pump. I still had my MityVac hooked up to the small return line as shown in the video. At that point I finally got a good vacuum reading and was able to prime my Injection Pump and start the car with no problems. My next action item is to replace the fuel filter as well as the 2 small o-rings within the fuel filter, as I suspect I have a air leak there! Anyways, Thanks again for the great Thread and YouTube videos!

 

[kmunigle]

driving after seal change

I'm doing my top and middle seal this weekend. When I put it back together and if it idle's normal is ok to drive their is no one with vagcom close by.

 

[dieselbeavis]

for those of you that have trouble following instructions(like me) and pulled the injector head off instead of just loosening it.
Not to worry.

Jack the drivers side up as far as you can so that the cam followers will stay in position. put the cam disk in place and have some one hold it in with a finger.
Put some vaseline on the little metal shim and stick it to the pump head body and carefully align it with the cam follower when pushing the head back into the body.
Tighten everything back up and bleed and adjust as per the video.
If the cam fell out and you don't remember which way it goes back in the pump and the car won't start even though the engine is getting fuel then you may have to redo the job and reverse the cam.

 

[runonbeer]

Drive pin for the plunger shaft on the back of the cam plate always points at the cylinder it is firing on. It might take some thinking but you should be able to figure out "where" the engine is and then position the cam plate accordingly. It'll only go in 2 ways. Right and wrong.

 

[NoSmoke]

Great video. It does however show removal of the dipstick tube by simply pulling up on it and replacing it by tapping on the top to seat it. It appears then to be a friction fit but mine seems different (02 Golf). There is what appears to be a retaining tab near the bottom of the tube. The tube can be rotated clockwise (quite easily) to disengage the tab but pulling up only moves the tube slightly and it appears then to be stopped by some other obstruction. Am I doing it wrong?

Runonbeer, you mention not having to unhook the 10 Pin connector (which may be a good thing since I can't get mine apart - I seem to have that problem with other connectors as well such as the one on the coolant temperature sensor which I never was able to get off) but can you still get good access to the pump head with it still connected?

Thanks for any additional clarification.

 

[runonbeer]

I never disconnect the 10 pin anymore. Plenty of room.

 

[runonbeer]

You have to pull up quite forcefully to disengage the dipstick tube. A lot of times it will just break. They are very inexpensive.

 

[oldpoopie]

@nosmoke,

The trick to getting all of the VW electrical connectors off is to push them in deeper/tighter, THEN pull back on the retaining tab while still pushing the connector in deeper. THEN while still pulling back on the retaining tab, pull the connector free. Once you get the hang of this it will be a piece of cake.

When you dont push the connector on tighter, the rubber seal inside puts pressure on the retaining tab so that when you try to retract it, it just hangs up from friction and never releases.

 

[NoSmoke]

@nosmoke,

The trick to getting all of the VW electrical connectors off is to push them in deeper/tighter, THEN pull back on the retaining tab while still pushing the connector in deeper. THEN while still pulling back on the retaining tab, pull the connector free. Once you get the hang of this it will be a piece of cake.

When you dont push the connector on tighter, the rubber seal inside puts pressure on the retaining tab so that when you try to retract it, it just hangs up from friction and never releases.

Thanks poopie but I'm not getting it - it sounds like a three hand operation (two pushing the two halves of the 10 pin connector together and a third pulling back on the retaining tab. What am I missing here?

 

[oldpoopie]

Thanks poopie but I'm not getting it - it sounds like a three hand operation (two pushing the two halves of the 10 pin connector together and a third pulling back on the retaining tab. What am I missing here?

10 pin connector is in a retaining bracket. Besides, you can use one hand to do it. Thumb and middle finger to grasp the connector to push in. Pointer finger to pull back on retaining tab, then continue to pull back to release connector.

Practice on the MAF connector so you can see what is going on.

 

[runonbeer]

I always use a 90 degree pick to pop the tab up then it is easier to do a thumb release. Also pushing them together helps relieve the tension on the catch.

 

[NoSmoke]

Well, still can't get the 10 pin connector unconnected but no matter, it doesn't look like it is necessary to do so, according to runonbeer.

Anyhow, still not wanting to pay $40 for the Dieselgeek pump head O-ring kit (shipped to Canada price), I have looked up what I think is the generic O-ring equivalent. From the dimensions of the green Bosch O-ring, it appears it is a AS568A-143 (or v close to it). Dimensions for that AS586... O-ring are 61.6 mm ID and 2.62 mm cross section. This info comes from:

http://www.marcorubber.com/sizingchart.htm

Now, I will try Monday to see if anyone here has it in Viton, or can order it.

Can anyone confirm the -143 ring is the right size?

I wonder if it is the one Dieselgeek supplies in their kit?

As well, I wonder why the extra bolt in the Dieselgeek kit is actually necessary as it is not used in the subject video?

 

[bhodgkiss]

I did mine last week, and now its leak free
The youtube vid and dieselgeek pdf are priceless.

I bought two black Viton O-rings off ebay for £15 (so under $15 each) but yes Im sure a simple Viton o-ring can be sourced for pennies (cents). I used vaseline to install it.

What I think is missing is....

The video doesn't say to mark the pump top plate before removal, it just tells you at the end to line it back up on re-installation (!)

Also, as its SO critical not to drop the shim when retracting the pump head, can you not use a little g-clamp or similar to hold the assy in place (while the top plate is removed) to avoid the shim dropping out?

I set my pump into the position where it gave the most spring force, but still the head was 'loose' when retracted back far enough to get at the o-ring. Now I will need to check that the shim hasn't fallen out, although the car runs fine so I'd assume not..... would it be sat on the floor of the pump if its dropped out???

On my Passat (longitudinal engine) there was much less room to do the job than the transverse engines by the looks of things, and the first time I did it I pinched the o-ring. Good job I bought two O-rings! I did the top seals at the same time.

Also, I assume you cant actually see the shim with the pump on the car, so you cant check its still in place? Other than seeing if anything has dropped out....

You definitely need VCDS to set it back up!! Mine was WAY out as I hadn't marked the top covers, so it was revving all over the place at idle, so loosening the top and adjusting whilst watching the laptop was spot on. Very sensitive but esy-ish to get it back to ~5mg/stroke

And yes just buy the anti tamper tools! Why mess about? Theyre not that expensive.

 

[NoSmoke]

Hey bhodkiss, were these the ones you bought by chance?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IMPERIAL-SI...-BS153-/370940232896?var=&hash=item565dc2c4c0

BTW, it's the QA adjuster that is scribbed or marked, not the top plate.