now this is exactly what my car started doing today....i've had it for 2 weeks. anyway should the check engine light be comming on if it's throwing the 00575 code? this happens at about 3000rpm in 4th gear but resets by turning off and on, but I get no check engine light. I have no way myself of checking the codes i would have to take it somewhere, but as i said i get no CE light when it happens. however I do ocasionaly get one on startup which I was told by the previous owner was jsut a common problem with the glow plug check, but they were jsut replaced.....no ill running when this happens.GoFaster said:Step 2: Troubleshooting the "00575 Intake manifold pressure control difference" code
Usual symptoms: car temporarily runs OK after being started, but particularly in the higher gears, it loses power abruptly after a period of running under load. Power may or may not return temporarily by taking load off the engine and then resuming, and generally returns temporarily after switching off the ignition until the same load conditions occur again.
if you are refering to me then no. it has been a cold spell here the past few weeks(maybe part of the issue??) and didn't dare stand outside and work on the car. just don't get on it where it cuts off at and it has been fine!!khb137 said:
I confirmed this. I just bought a 97 Passat B4, the CEL light was on when I looked at it. I had the owner have the codes pulled, it came back with 00575. His mechanic cleared the codes and advised him to watch it.rdkern said:A code will not always throw a CEL. Scan it to see if one's there.
Caddy_Shack, I was able to troubleshoot mine to a pinched ECU pressure hose. My VAG-COM really helped me diagnose this issue. I posted the results in the following thread:caddy shack said:This sounds like the problem I am haveing except I have a p-box and .216 injectors and was wondering if thy could be senting me into limp mode. When I get on it it will boost up to 20-22 psi when it is cold after it warms up If I go over 15 it will go into limp mode and won,t go above 12.
I had that one too...Does your wastegate move at all? More than likely you are going into overboost and the computer is responding with limp mode to protect the motor.MTDiezel said:Same problem, but the 65535 code was gone. Now I've got the 00575 code with a 17-00 Control Difference, instead of the previous 17-10. Does that mean anything?
MTDiezel said:I guess I'll check the N75 next with a multimeter or via VAGCOM, and go on from there...I'll probably end up going through the whole process, but does anybody have any advice on where to go next, and where to pick up an N75?
The turbo hangs under the exhaust manifold in back of the engine - yes, you access it under the car - Up on a set of ramps is usually best.MTDiezel said:Maybe a little help though, where is the wastegate actuator. Do you access it from under the car?
Glad to help!MTDiezel said:Tony, Thanks for the great information and pictures, that helps alot, (and I'm pretty sure I posted to this sticky on the A3/B4 forum, should I post a new thread there?)
Run away from the dealer! Find a guru or TDI shop near you...even if you have to drive a few hundred miles and stay overnight! It's worth NOT having the aggravation of a botched timing belt. Most dealers don't replace the stretch bolts (1-time use) and don't replace the rollers (they're fine )!MTDiezel said:...took the car in for timing belt replacement before a long trip(have a few mileage discrepancies from previous owner, so I thought I would just have it done...prevention etc...and due to poor planning on my part and a bit of trepidation I thought I'd pay this one time for the dealer to change it out...)...
He wants to throw parts at it, at your expense! "Back Boost?" Is that where the turbo sucks? New term to me. Sounds like they are making it up.MTDiezel said:Anyway I asked the dealer to check the wastegate operation, and he said it did not work at all, and on test drive they were getting a "back boost"...He then said he could diagnose the lack of boost problem, but would need to replace wastegate first (as that is where they start their diagnostic procedure), at a cost of $800. I told him I would need to save some cash and bring it in later, but wanted to see if I could do it myself, with some help from you guys.
Buy some PB blaster and soak the wastegate lever (that penetrates through the exhaust flange) and let it sit overnight. Oh, and do this on aMTDiezel said:I'll check the wastegate myself first with the procedures you suggested Tony. Any thoughts on the validity of the dealer's statements?