How-To: Replace a MKIV ALH Diesel Injection Pump without Changing the Timing Belt

jimbote

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Jul 10, 2006
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spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
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Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
my buddies auto jetta and manual golf, he was selling the jetta and wanted to keep the auto pump so i did a pump swap in his driveway 25 minutes start to finish including hammer modding the manual pump... totally uneccessary to remove the VC during a swap ... just establish tdc first and have the pump pin handy
 

rocketeer928

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2003 Jetta GLS TDI 5-speed
Dumped Photobucket

As some of you probably know, Photobucket made a decision to require those of us that use them for pictures on forums like TDI Club to pay something like $400/year. And, they did this without any warning to their registered subscribers. Well, I've dumped Photobucket.

After doing some research, I've switched to vgy.me for photo hosting and updated this thread. If vgy.me pulls the same stunt at a later date, then I won't be updating again, as it takes too much precious time.
 

boertje

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I had made pdfs on the howtos I've done so all is not lost should any other hosting service demand big money for their services.
 

UhOh

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Just a note to mention that there are cam indexing tools that don't require pulling the valve cover.
 

oldpoopie

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2001 golf gl, 2006 jetta, 1981 ALH swapped rabbit pickup, 1998 beetle
As some of you probably know, Photobucket made a decision to require those of us that use them for pictures on forums like TDI Club to pay something like $400/year. And, they did this without any warning to their registered subscribers. Well, I've dumped Photobucket.
After doing some research, I've switched to vgy.me for photo hosting and updated this thread. If vgy.me pulls the same stunt at a later date, then I won't be updating again, as it takes too much precious time.
Bummer. But you know tdiclub has its own photo hosting?
 

Tmorgan1988

Member
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Aug 11, 2017
Location
Colorado
TDI
2001 Jetta tdi
Need help!

Hi there I bought a 2001 Jetta tdi auto, with help reading many articles on this club I completed the 5 speed swap, went very smooth! I then had some running issues read some more articles and found my in tank unit was clogged so I replaced it. My problem is my injection pump is getting seriously hot! While using vag com tdi timing my fuel temp goes from an average of 140 to 200 ! Any ideas, has my injection pump over worked itself by previous owner? Thanks
 

Nevada_TDI

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Aug 17, 2008
Location
Reno, sort of...
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2001 Jetta TDI
Generally speaking, if the pump is getting hot it is because the thermo-tee on the top of the filter is not opening and allowing the fuel to circulate back to the tank to allow fresh fuel in to the filter and then into the pump head keeping it cool. I will suggest if the fuel pickup was plugged for any length of time damage could have been done to the pump internals; I only know this as I recently went through the same thing. As far as swapping out the injection pump w/o removing the timing belt goes we were in and out in less than 1 hour yesterday, it can be done but you have to know how to prevent the loss of proper timing. We used quite a few clamps, though. If your pump is junk, contact Dutch Auto Parts for the fastest and least expensive way to get a replacement. See post #1 :
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=434593
 

4thbugTDI

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Joined
Jun 2, 2004
Location
Maryland
TDI
2004 Golf TDI
I need to remove my injector from my 2000 NB parts car(ie, head already removed). Is there a way I can get it off without buy the counterhold tool? I still want to sell the engine for parts and don't want to destroy anything.

Thanks,
Lance
 

eddie_1

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Hannover, Germany formerly Toronto & NY
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Jetta Wagon 2003 TDI tuned to 170HP, A6 Wagon 2008 TDI 2.7L tuned to 340HP
I need to remove my injector from my 2000 NB parts car(ie, head already removed). Is there a way I can get it off without buy the counterhold tool? I still want to sell the engine for parts and don't want to destroy anything.

Thanks,
Lance
To remove injectors I use a crow foot wrench.
 

arne487

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Jan 16, 2008
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Fort Collins, CO
TDI
'03 Golf TDI, '10 TDI Cup Jetta
If you're not putting a timing belt back on then just take the pump off and leave it. No need to worry about crank/cam position if you're scavenging parts. Just don't put the car in gear and roll it around if there's no timing belt on it.


Edit: I just reread you don't have a head on the engine. No risk of damage if there aren't any valves! Just take off whatever you want.

I need to remove my injector from my 2000 NB parts car(ie, head already removed). Is there a way I can get it off without buy the counterhold tool? I still want to sell the engine for parts and don't want to destroy anything.

Thanks,
Lance
 
Last edited:

Lock_t

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Apr 20, 2016
Location
Bucks Co. Pa
TDI
2001 Golf 5spd 221k
so swapping IPs doesn't need VC removal, do you HAVE to take cam sprocket off or even vacuum pump off? theoretically wouldn't you be able to loosen the tensioner, pull the belt, keep an eye on TDC mark on flywheel and just swap pumps being that you have the pump locked at TDC? or am i missing something crucial?
 

oldpoopie

Vendor
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May 14, 2001
Location
Portland Oregon
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2001 golf gl, 2006 jetta, 1981 ALH swapped rabbit pickup, 1998 beetle
Why don’t you try that out and let us know how it works out...
 

jokila

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Dec 3, 2004
Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
so swapping IPs doesn't need VC removal, do you HAVE to take cam sprocket off or even vacuum pump off? theoretically wouldn't you be able to loosen the tensioner, pull the belt, keep an eye on TDC mark on flywheel and just swap pumps being that you have the pump locked at TDC? or am i missing something crucial?

Have you done a timing belt on an ALH?


Consult the timing belt procedure for further info. http://pics3.tdiclub.com/articles/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf
 

Lock_t

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Bucks Co. Pa
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2001 Golf 5spd 221k
Not yet I've been reading into it though. I'm just talking about IP swap though, I mean I realize cam would need to be locked but otherwise I was more or less curious
 

Lock_t

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Bucks Co. Pa
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2001 Golf 5spd 221k
I mean I'll try anything once unless I find research proving it won't work. Don't think that everybody on here that asks questions doesn't do their research.
I have looked at it thanks appreciate all the wonderful insight
 

BobnOH

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central Ohio
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New Beetle 2003 manual
Yes, we do assume a lot, or we take nothing for granted.
so swapping IPs doesn't need VC removal, do you HAVE to take cam sprocket off or even vacuum pump off? theoretically wouldn't you be able to loosen the tensioner, pull the belt, keep an eye on TDC mark on flywheel and just swap pumps being that you have the pump locked at TDC? or am i missing something crucial?
Believe what he meant to say was no, that won't work.
 

Lock_t

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Apr 20, 2016
Location
Bucks Co. Pa
TDI
2001 Golf 5spd 221k
...i did a pump swap in his driveway 25 minutes start to finish including hammer modding the manual pump... totally uneccessary to remove the VC during a swap ... just establish tdc first and have the pump pin handy
so what's the scoop with this?
 

Lock_t

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Bucks Co. Pa
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2001 Golf 5spd 221k
As Jim states, if the engine was timed correctly and the pin goes in then it is close to TDC.
Verify with the flywheel timing mark, of course.
right so if you can see TDC mark on flywheel through trans hole and not messing with timing other than strickly working on IP wouldn't it be somewhat of an easy swap? or am i looking at this through too much of a tight lens?
 

jokila

Vendor
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
right so if you can see TDC mark on flywheel through trans hole and not messing with timing other than strickly working on IP wouldn't it be somewhat of an easy swap? or am i looking at this through too much of a tight lens?
That's the right thing to do but you still need to follow the part of the timing belt procedure on how to set the tensioner properly. That is why i posted the timing belt pdf for you.

You are going to need to pop the sprocket off the camshaft and then at some point torque the sprocket back on. You really want the camshaft index/lock tool to be there to ensure it stays in the correct position. The crank is easy to see whether it's in position or not.
 

Moosenuckle

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Pittsburgh ,Pa
TDI
03 tdi ,Mk2 aba swap w/charger; 97 Dodge cummins 5spd
Removing Injection Pump

Please note that Posts 1 - 8 of this thread are copyrighted via a Creative Commons 3.0 BY-NC-SA license.


Engage the parking brake and place the front of your car on jack stands. If anything, this will save your back from aching.

Remove any installed skid plate or belly pan. This is mainly in case you drop something through the engine compartment; it will be easier to retrieve.

Remove the upper engine cover with a 10-mm socket, or pull it off if you’ve retrofitted it like I did.

If you do not have a torque wrench that will accommodate the fuel lines, take a marker to indicate the current position of the nuts on both the injector nozzles and injection pump. Remove any alternative CCV [/COLOR]system (e.g., my Agricultural Strainer CCV system).




Clean the fuel line nuts with a little brake cleaner, doing your best to collect dirt particles among disposable shop towels. Remove the two metal/rubber clips that hold a pair of fuel lines together with a 10‑mm socket. The picture shows one of the clips removed, and you can see my fuel line nut marking better in this picture.



Remove the braided fuel return line between the injection pump and Injector Nr. 4, including taking it off the plastic clip attached to the vacuum reservoir bracket. A shop towel helped catch leaking diesel fuel.



Using a 17‑mm open-end wrench, loosen the fuel line nuts. A 17‑mm flare-nut wrench could also be used, but it’s not absolutely necessary.



Remove the fuel lines in the following order: Line Nr. 3, Line Nr. 4, Line Nr. 1 (hardest to remove from the injector; use the regular 17‑mm open-end wrench), and Line Nr. 2. While removing them, mark the fuel lines individually with their injector number and their position on the injection pump (e.g., Top Front, Bottom Back, etc.), respectively. Again, use shop towels to collect any leaking diesel fuel.



Here’s a picture of the fuel lines removed from Injectors 1 – 4, left to right.



Wrap the four injectors with plastic wrap to keep dirt from inadvertently entering the injectors, holding down with twist ties or elastic (rubber) bands.
Yes, my valve cover and intake manifold is now BLUE.



Pinch off the fuel supply and return lines with hose clamps near the fuel filter.



Pull back the spring clamps on the fuel supply and return lines (blue tape arrows).

 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
Glad I found this thread. Good initial writeup with some great tips and tricks in the replies to quicken things up. Swapping pumps and injectors within the next few days.
 

Zak99b5

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2021
Location
Albany NY
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
I followed this diy when I replaced my IP a few months ago. Worked well.

I did The timing belt a month or so before, so I just used the flywheel Tdc mark, long reach cam plate, and IP pin—no removal of the valve cover. Saves some labor.

I have the later fuel line pairing clips that unscrew, different than what is shown.

My tensioner tool was too fat with The motor mount still fully installed, so I used vice grips on the corners of the boss on the tensioner (what the holes are in) and tensioned it that way. Confirmed it worked first on my old tensioner before trying that on the car. Saved labor there too.

I followed Cool Air's prime and bleed method—remove banjo for return and apply vacuum there till the pump is full. Fuel injector connections need to be tight for this to work (ask me how I know). Then cracked loose all 4 injector connections and turned the car over a couple times with the key (rags to collect spraying fuel). Snugged them down, and she fired right up.

It's a little nerve-wracking not being able to see the timing belt on the crank sprocket, but it was fine. I just tugged both sides of the belt so I could feel it was seated correctly (no slip, fully engaged) when I reinstalled the cam sprocket & belt. No need to take all the timing covers off.
 

jokila

Vendor
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
Yeah. the long reach cam tool is great. I finally got one after all these years of doing the timing belts with metalnerd cam plate.

I helped a guy get the tensioner set using some large channel locks. I drove over to his place and he assured me he had the timing belt tools. The problem was the spanner wrench he bought (because it was way cheaper than the Metalnerd tool) pins broke off. They were obviously crap built.
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
my buddies auto jetta and manual golf, he was selling the jetta and wanted to keep the auto pump so i did a pump swap in his driveway 25 minutes start to finish including hammer modding the manual pump... totally uneccessary to remove the VC during a swap ... just establish tdc first and have the pump pin handy
Yes I know this is a 5 year old post, but I want know- Were you able to do this with the tensioner in situ? I would think anyone who is very familiar with the belt replace procedure might be able to do this, but for most of us who have only done 1 or 2, I'd recommend following the final steps of the procedure. Cam locked, crank locked pump pinned, tension with pulleys freewheel.
 

Zak99b5

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2021
Location
Albany NY
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
Yes I know this is a 5 year old post, but I want know- Were you able to do this with the tensioner in situ? I would think anyone who is very familiar with the belt replace procedure might be able to do this, but for most of us who have only done 1 or 2, I'd recommend following the final steps of the procedure. Cam locked, crank locked pump pinned, tension with pulleys freewheel.
I can’t imagine doing the job without loosening and resetting tension on the timing belt. Even without tension you’re fighting the belt a little as you put the cam sprocket and belt back on the taper a bit. IP sprocket would be harder.
 
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