How to repair your Jettawagon cargo cover.

[Ksf]

How to repair your Jettawagon cargo cover.

I have finally figured out how to fix this!
I (foolishly in hind sight) even asked VW Canada’s Customer Service online service. All they did was point me back to the dealer and washed their hands. I tried to point out the cargo cover is their design so they should provide a kit for when the 2mm thick plastic end pieces fail (I really did not want to buy an new one for $700 plus tax as we throw enough plastic stuff away on a daily basis). Enough of my ranting…

My cargo cover of 6 years did not want to rollup again. I found the four teeth on the end plugs worn off. that the end pieces on the central roll had the four teeth on the end plugs worn off. No amount or type of glue could fix this. After numerous bright ideas and attempts I finally came to this on how to replace this end plug. Please read through first before attempting.

Tools and Parts:

• Cargo cover that has the end plugs worn off
• Torx key to remove the screwed in end plugs that are broken
• JB KWIK Epoxy
• A few tooth picks, sheets of newspaper and some paper where you mix the epoxy
• 2 hex (Allen) keys [I used IKEA 5/16” as I shop there a lot]
• 2 set screws (grub screws) with hex sockets that match your hex keys [I used 3/18” with a length of 18mm]
• metal saw

What failed:
This tiny piece of plastique with teeth of ~2mm. (the yellow stuff is from an earlier attempt to glue it, which failed)

Pre-work:
Remove plastic end covers from cargo cover
Roll up the cargo cover back into its’ housing (easier to handle)
Remove the end screws and end plugs
Take your set screw (grub screw) and check that they fit into the space where the end plugs were. If this does not work, stop now and get the parts that do fit.

​

The work:

• Setup your paper underneath each end of the cargo cover (you never know when you will make a mess)
• Mix enough JB KWIK (I used 1 very large drop (~1cm x ~1cm) of each part) for one side.
• Once mixed, use the toothpick and pick up some of the epoxy and rub it onto each of the 4 groves (ensures no air pockets) on the end of the cargo cover, then put the rest deep into the end of this hole.
• There should be a bit of epoxy left over, take the set screw (grub screw) and with it on the hex key, roll the threads into the epoxy (do not get epoxy on the hex key). This will fill the treads and take out air pockets. Now, insert into the epoxy filled end and gently push in until it can go no further and give it a ¼~1/2 turn clockwise. Make sure that the hex key is straight in line with the cargo cover roll and when assured of this you can remove the hex key and wait for the epoxy to harden. (if you prefer to leave the key in you can but ensure that it is supported in the desired position)

​

• Repeat this to the other end.

• Test your work to see that no epoxy has covered your screw and the hex key can still fit easily. If there is any issues scrap/cut/grind away the excess epoxy.
• Place the end plastic end pieces back on the cargo cover ends and insert the hex keys into both ends.
  
  

• Tighten the cargo cover to how it originally was. Sorry, I have no way of detailing this so you will need to do this on a trail and error basis.
• At this point, you will note that the hex keys are sticking far out from the ends. Making sure that the ends are tightly compressed together, measure how far the hex key’s arm is from the end piece and cut this off. This needs to be done on the other side too.
• Now you can return your fixed cargo cover to you car. It will be a tight fit putting it in but it will work again and not cost you the price of a new cover.

As always, do this at your own risk.
Enjoy.

 

[gmcjetpilot]

THANKS>.. just bought a cover from craigslist.... another state so he agreed to ship. Got it out of a well designed DIY box.... I extended it and it won't retract...

The only access (mine is a 2010 TDI JSW) are two tiny tiny TORX fasteners, way smaller than T6, the smallest one I have (of course).

I'll post some pics when I get a chance.... as I dig into it.

 

[gmcjetpilot]

I took mine apart and it is totally different. There is a metal shaft that comes out. At the end it flattens out and slides into a slot in a nylon plastic piece in the end of the housing.... a few screws 4 or five secures the cap. This is the torque shaft that winds the spring inside the roller (that slides into the aluminum housing. The other end is similar but a plastic is in the end of the roller with a round center pin. This fits into the end cap like the other end, but no metal shaft. The plastic caps that screw into the aluminum housing have tabs to clock it.

I see how the metal shaft in the roller (that reacts the spring torque) backed out a little axially, then slipped in the platic end cap, lossing its pre-tension. I see it stripped part of the slot out in the plastic end cap.

Put it back together with out repairing it.... but the fix looks easy. I will take pictures and describe it better. However there is enough slot left in the cap to hold it for now.

I just put it in the car, and it looks nicer, tight across the cargo compartment.

 

[Dodoma]

Your are Einstein. Keep up.

 

[nimmolo]

Let me get this straight!

Let me get this straight... because it looks genius.

Ksf, you are using the IKEA wrenches as kind of permanent "kickstands" to hold the spool and keep it from unwinding, right?

The allen keys are wedged into the behind-the-back-seat cargo-cover sockets along with the cargo cover ends?

Hope you're still there. I'm amazed at the ingenuity.

I'm also amazed at the VW engineers who designed this to fail in the first place. But right now I'm amazed by a fix using IKEA wrenches.

If you can point me to a higher-res version of the last photo, i'd be much obliged.

 

[Ksf]

Hi Nimmolo,

Let me get this straight... because it looks genius.

Ksf, you are using the IKEA wrenches as kind of permanent "kickstands" to hold the spool and keep it from unwinding, right? <-Correct. They provide the hard stop.

The allen keys are wedged into the behind-the-back-seat cargo-cover sockets along with the cargo cover ends? <- Correct. It's ugly but simple.

Hope you're still there. I'm amazed at the ingenuity.

I'm also amazed at the VW engineers who designed this to fail in the first place. But right now I'm amazed by a fix using IKEA wrenches. <- My preference is simple off the shelf parts. Had a few IKEA Allen keys around so started playing with them when I was forced to tackle this issue.

If you can point me to a higher-res version of the last photo, i'd be much obliged.

 

[DieselHuffer]

Old thread bump for larger pics (if you have them of course).

Im in the process of attempting this now.
Does yours still work?
Anything you would improve/do differently?

 

[Ksf]

Hi DieselHuffer
Yes my repaired cargo cover still works.
Things that I would do differently:
1) use as small an Allen key as possible (did not have time to experiment) as the Allen keys on the side make the cargo cover a tight squeeze - but this is not a serious issue if you just put it back and do not take it out as I do so I can larger stuff.
Like I mentioned earlier, I just used what I had handy and experimented.

 

[DieselHuffer]

Thanks. Still on the bench and ready to be put together, once I get a couple other projects out of the way.
I had a thought. Will try to post pictures soon, but basically, I have some very flat, L shaped "keys" that I thought I could just JB weld into the ends of the retract assembly. The only issue would be that unlike the Allen key, they are set in that one position and couldnt be rotated to 6 different angles if needed to fine tune the setting.
But its possible that the flatter "key" could be attached somehow to the end of the cover itself and thus would make installation a bit easier (maybe, maybe not).

Right now, I have a bit smaller set screw and 1/8" allen wrenches. A bit smaller than what you used, but they should work well. I wouldnt want to go too much smaller, but then I havent tried to squeeze it into place yet either.

I also thought about grinding the wrenches a bit narrower, but dont want to weaken them too much.

 

[Second Turbo]

Great instructions.

Our cargo cover failed at a paltry 359,000 miles.

I was not surprised to learn that VW only sells the whole assembly. Having had to previously repair the console latch&hinge, and the glove box latch, I was surprised to learn that the usual suspect aftermarket sources don't sell the fragile bits and/or repair kits. I guess the covers don't fail often enough.

Anyway, anyone not looking forward to a tricky repair might check eBay. I was able to score a used cargo cover, for just over US$100 (including shipping). The thing is in outstanding shape for a part used on Mark that is now a decade or more out of production.

 

[tacolifestyle]

I recently had the same failure where the star shaped bosses sheared at their bases on the end caps. This weekend I used J-B Weld 50133 Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive to re-affix the bosses. It was tight space but a pair of tweezers helped to seat them in the right locations. I was generous with the epoxy but was careful to not build it up to interfere with the shade rod interface. The cap end however I built a bit of a shoulder up slightly filling the screw hole. Once cured, I drilled out the screw hole. I then installed one cap on the rolled up rod and set about four turns of preload on the system, slid the roll cover in the lock it in place, then installed a low profile pan head screw similar to the original with a small washer under the head to spread the load out a bit. I then did the same (without the need for preload) on the other side. Installed and seems to be working out okay. The test of time will prove if the epoxy is durable.

 

[2003jettawgngal]

THANK YOU, Ksf, for the terrific, detailed instructions you wrote for this task. I patiently followed them as closely as possible over the past several weeks and got a great result this afternoon! The shade now rolls up again - I won't say "like new" - but VERY much better than it did three weeks ago when the plastic assemblies on both end caps sheared off!

The area still needing improvement is the tensioning. And I may be able to make it better by adjusting the hex keys I installed by your instructions. Even if I "leave well enough alone," it's OK. (I used 3mm hex keys to fit into shoulder screws with 3mm sockets that I fixed inside the nylon tube with JB KWIK Epoxy according to your instructions. These hex keys worked well as to fitting the shade assembly into the cradle behind the back seat headrests.)

One addition I made to the repair procedure was to use a stainless steel eye & eye 1/4" x 2-3/4" turnbuckle fitted with 400 lb. test fish line to maintain compression on the two ends of the shade assembly so I could easily move it into and out of the car depending on whether I do or don't want to use the entire cargo area with or without the shade in place. So far this seems to be working as planned. I'm including a picture of how the turnbuckle sits on the top of the shade assembly.

New item by Jean Mar

photos.app.goo.gl

I took my time with this repair, mostly trying to procure parts that would fit and work out well. I would not have been able to do this repair AT ALL if not for Ksf's ingenious approach and SUPER step-wise instructions.

 

[shoebear]

Here are bigger versions of the photos Ksf posted:

 

[ZydecoJoe]

Here is how I did it to avoid a tight fit when replacing the cargo cover which results when using a hex (Allen) key as a "kickstand" on the exterior of the ABS end cap(s) as described above by Ksf. It also avoids using a set screw (grub screw) on the end(s) of the white plastic/nylon tubes that stick out of the cargo cover assembly. I was concerned that my 3/8 inch set screw ,which I tried first, might split the ends of the white plastic/nylon tubes. A set screw smaller in diameter would work better but I could not find any. In any event, my technique does not use set screws.



I have a 2002 VW Jetta Wagon TDI GLS MK4.



Parts:



a. 1/8 inch very stiff wire material. I used a length of landscape staple (aka loop stakes)

which is very stiff 1/8 inch wire material)



b. Torx Size 10 Security Bit Tip (the type with a hole in it to accommodate

the security pin on the torx screws holding the plugs on the ends of the white plastic/nylon tube that comes out of each end of the cargo cover assembly)



c. 1/8 inch drill bit (or similar small diameter)



d. 17/64 inch drill bit (or similar large diameter)



e. No epoxy needed.



f. No set screws (grub screws) needed.





1. Roll the cargo cover up so it is not extended. It's easier to do this when slipping it out of its aluminum tube casing. Replace it back into the aluminum tube. Remove the T10 end screws and plugs from the ends of the white plastic/nylon tubes sticking out of each side of the cargo cover assembly using a torx size10 security bit. (the bit with the hole in the tip)



2.Drill a 1/8 inch hole close to the end of each of the white plastic/nylon tubes that stick out of the cargo cover assembly.



3. There is a black plastic receptacle tube inside the right side black ABS end cap (right side when you are at the rear of the car looking forward). The right side white plastic/nylon tube fits into this black plastic receptacle tube to keep it aligned when replacing the end cap. Drill a 17/64 (or similar large) "peep" hole near the end of the black plastic receptacle tube so you will be able to see the hole in the white plastic/nylon tube through the horizontal slot on the end cap.



3. Place a length of 1/8 inch stiff wire through the left side white plastic/nylon tube and use it as a handle to "pre-load" the spring inside the cargo cover assembly. I used 10 complete turns.



4. After pre loading to the desired spring tension (about 10 turns for me), secure the stiff wire handle so it will not unwind (best to use eye protection when working with loaded springs).



5. Replace the right side end cap.



6. Rotate the left white plastic/nylon tube (up to 1/2 turn if necessary) until you see the right side plastic/nylon tube's 1/8 inch hole appearing through the large "peep" hole in the right side receptacle black plastic tube. When you see it, push a short length of 1/8 inch stiff wire all the way through. Use a short piece of wire so it will not extend outside the outer surface of the end cap. If placed correctly, the wire will not escape because it is under tension and also will be blocked by the shell of the right side black ABS end cap so it will not pop out. The stiff wire acts as a pin to keep the right side plastic tube from rotating, much the same as the exterior Allen key in Ksf's technique does.



7. Replace the black ABS end cap on the left side.



5. Replace the cargo cover and test the tension. As I said, 10 turns to pre-load worked well for me.

 

[ZydecoJoe]

How to repair your Jettawagon cargo cover.

I have finally figured out how to fix this!
I (foolishly in hind sight) even asked VW Canada’s Customer Service online service. All they did was point me back to the dealer and washed their hands. I tried to point out the cargo cover is their design so they should provide a kit for when the 2mm thick plastic end pieces fail (I really did not want to buy an new one for $700 plus tax as we throw enough plastic stuff away on a daily basis). Enough of my ranting…

My cargo cover of 6 years did not want to rollup again. I found the four teeth on the end plugs worn off. that the end pieces on the central roll had the four teeth on the end plugs worn off. No amount or type of glue could fix this. After numerous bright ideas and attempts I finally came to this on how to replace this end plug. Please read through first before attempting.

Tools and Parts:

• Cargo cover that has the end plugs worn off
• Torx key to remove the screwed in end plugs that are broken
• JB KWIK Epoxy
• A few tooth picks, sheets of newspaper and some paper where you mix the epoxy
• 2 hex (Allen) keys [I used IKEA 5/16” as I shop there a lot]
• 2 set screws (grub screws) with hex sockets that match your hex keys [I used 3/18” with a length of 18mm]
• metal saw

What failed:
This tiny piece of plastique with teeth of ~2mm. (the yellow stuff is from an earlier attempt to glue it, which failed)

Pre-work:
Remove plastic end covers from cargo cover
Roll up the cargo cover back into its’ housing (easier to handle)
Remove the end screws and end plugs
Take your set screw (grub screw) and check that they fit into the space where the end plugs were. If this does not work, stop now and get the parts that do fit.

​

The work:

• Setup your paper underneath each end of the cargo cover (you never know when you will make a mess)
• Mix enough JB KWIK (I used 1 very large drop (~1cm x ~1cm) of each part) for one side.
• Once mixed, use the toothpick and pick up some of the epoxy and rub it onto each of the 4 groves (ensures no air pockets) on the end of the cargo cover, then put the rest deep into the end of this hole.
• There should be a bit of epoxy left over, take the set screw (grub screw) and with it on the hex key, roll the threads into the epoxy (do not get epoxy on the hex key). This will fill the treads and take out air pockets. Now, insert into the epoxy filled end and gently push in until it can go no further and give it a ¼~1/2 turn clockwise. Make sure that the hex key is straight in line with the cargo cover roll and when assured of this you can remove the hex key and wait for the epoxy to harden. (if you prefer to leave the key in you can but ensure that it is supported in the desired position)

​

• Repeat this to the other end.

• Test your work to see that no epoxy has covered your screw and the hex key can still fit easily. If there is any issues scrap/cut/grind away the excess epoxy.
• Place the end plastic end pieces back on the cargo cover ends and insert the hex keys into both ends.
  
  

• Tighten the cargo cover to how it originally was. Sorry, I have no way of detailing this so you will need to do this on a trail and error basis.
• At this point, you will note that the hex keys are sticking far out from the ends. Making sure that the ends are tightly compressed together, measure how far the hex key’s arm is from the end piece and cut this off. This needs to be done on the other side too.
• Now you can return your fixed cargo cover to you car. It will be a tight fit putting it in but it will work again and not cost you the price of a new cover.

As always, do this at your own risk.
Enjoy.

Hello Ksf, Thanks! See my post above dated Oct 7, 2023 which is another technique that does not require epoxy or a set screw or hex key. -Joe

 

[ZydecoJoe]

Another thought. After you drill the 1/8 inch holes near the end of the white plastic/nylon tubes, replace the black end plugs without replacing the end plug screws. Now drill through the same 1/8 inch holes so your 1/8 inch drill bit goes through the plugs. (The existing holes provide a guide for your drill bit). This will provide additional strength to the end of the white plastic nylon tubes. The finished project requires only one permanent so- called "kickstand" securing stiff wire through the end of the white plastic/nylon tube on the right side of the cargo assembly inside the black ABS end cap. But you may opt to add a permanent second wire on the left side of the cargo assembly.