How to preform brake system flush

vwman2

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2012
Location
Orange County NY
TDI
03 Jetta Wagon Tdi, 2010 Golf TDI
Hello all,

Wife car 2010 golf tdi dsg with 160k now on original brakes are needing replacment. To my knowledge the brake fluid is still original so definitely over do for change. I have been reading various posts about doing the job but I'm confused about the abs system, on my turbo diesel it says you need a vcds to run the abs pump but other threads I have been reading don't mention it all. I don't have vcds at this time. Also as how to get all the fluid out I'm not clear on best way to go at this. I know the turkey Baster method to empty the resiiviour but do you drain/bleed each caliper or empty them all first.

Thank you everyone
Jamie
 

hymato

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Location
NorthEast PA
TDI
2010 jetta TDI(buyback) Now 2005.5 Jetta tdi
The best and easiest method is using a motive brake bleeder system. I change my fluid every two years with the pressure bleeder it takes 30mins. And I don't mess with the abs system.
 

meerschm

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Location
Fairfax county VA
TDI
2009 Jetta wagon DSG 08/08 205k buyback 1/8/18; replaced with 2017 Golf Wagon 4mo 1.8l CXBB
all you really need is to get new fluid in as much of the system as you can.

the motive bleeder and catch bottle makes it simple, but if you have a cooperative friend, you can do it without.

get as much fluid from the resevoir as you can, and refill with fresh fluid.

then, you can open up each bleeder, press brake pedal, close bleeder, release brake pedal, repeat till the fluid flows clear. ( a section of clear plastic tubing that fits over the bleeder valve helps contain the mess and lets you see when the fluid is clear) the trick here is to not let any air into the system, the tubing fills with fluid and can give you some slack. but you can do it with coordination. bleeder has to talk to an obedient pedal-pusher and releaser who can perform on command.

keep an eye on the resevoir to make sure it never gets low enough to suck air.



best to use a six point socket to get the valves to move, then a regular wrench, box end, open end, or tubing wrench, which is a box end with a notch to go around tubing, will do.

you probably need to pull the battery to get good access to the brake resevoir.

jack up and pull a tire/wheel, bleed the valve, close valve, replace cover, then move on to the next wheel.

order is LF, RF, LR, RR

as long as you do not let any air in, you should be ok.

test drive after and get the anti-lock to kick in.

clean up any spilled fluid right away, that stuff will eat paint pretty quick.
 

vwman2

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2012
Location
Orange County NY
TDI
03 Jetta Wagon Tdi, 2010 Golf TDI
thank you all for the advice, I feel more confident now and ordered the motive bleeder to help me get this done. Will be alone so figured I would need it.
 

YukonLT

Veteran Member - TDIClub Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 28, 2012
Location
N/A
TDI
2010 Golf TDI 6MT
Can someone tell me how much fluid is needed to do the flush/change?
 

meerschm

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Location
Fairfax county VA
TDI
2009 Jetta wagon DSG 08/08 205k buyback 1/8/18; replaced with 2017 Golf Wagon 4mo 1.8l CXBB
A Liter would be safe. you might get by with half that, but don't want to run out.

it is ok to save the extra in the original can if you close the lid to keep air (and water vapor) out
 

YukonLT

Veteran Member - TDIClub Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 28, 2012
Location
N/A
TDI
2010 Golf TDI 6MT
A Liter would be safe. you might get by with half that, but don't want to run out.

it is ok to save the extra in the original can if you close the lid to keep air (and water vapor) out
Thanks, I figured a liter would do it.
 

EvilEvo

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2012
Location
Rockville, MD
TDI
2012 Golf TDI 4dr W/Tech Package
all you really need is to get new fluid in as much of the system as you can.
the motive bleeder and catch bottle makes it simple, but if you have a cooperative friend, you can do it without.
get as much fluid from the resevoir as you can, and refill with fresh fluid.
then, you can open up each bleeder, press brake pedal, close bleeder, release brake pedal, repeat till the fluid flows clear. ( a section of clear plastic tubing that fits over the bleeder valve helps contain the mess and lets you see when the fluid is clear) the trick here is to not let any air into the system, the tubing fills with fluid and can give you some slack. but you can do it with coordination. bleeder has to talk to an obedient pedal-pusher and releaser who can perform on command.
keep an eye on the resevoir to make sure it never gets low enough to suck air.
best to use a six point socket to get the valves to move, then a regular wrench, box end, open end, or tubing wrench, which is a box end with a notch to go around tubing, will do.
you probably need to pull the battery to get good access to the brake resevoir.
jack up and pull a tire/wheel, bleed the valve, close valve, replace cover, then move on to the next wheel.
order is LF, RF, LR, RR
as long as you do not let any air in, you should be ok.
test drive after and get the anti-lock to kick in.
clean up any spilled fluid right away, that stuff will eat paint pretty quick.
Just FYI, you bleed the brakes from the corner farthest from the master cylinder. So it would be Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front.

You can also use VagCom to bleed the brakes. It has a procedure which "presses the pedal" for you.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bleeding-brakes
 

meerschm

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Location
Fairfax county VA
TDI
2009 Jetta wagon DSG 08/08 205k buyback 1/8/18; replaced with 2017 Golf Wagon 4mo 1.8l CXBB
I got the sequence from alldataDIY for the 09 JSW
 

wackypete

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Location
Brampton, Ontario
TDI
2013 VW Golf
Is there a definitive answer on the order to bleed your brakes (+ clutch)? Every post seems to contain two schools of thought: 1) closest -> farthest or 2) farthest to closest. Does it depend on the model year? If so, what's the order for the 2009-2014 Golf?
 

TDI Hoo

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2010
Location
Virginia
TDI
2010 Golf TDI (Bought back by VW)
Is there a definitive answer on the order to bleed your brakes (+ clutch)? Every post seems to contain two schools of thought: 1) closest -> farthest or 2) farthest to closest. Does it depend on the model year? If so, what's the order for the 2009-2014 Golf?
I did a DIY for my .:R32. The procedure is exactly the same for the TDI and the Bentley still says bleed nearest to farthest from master cylinder. I doubt that it really matters. The sequence and the volume of fluid is in the DIY including for manual transmission cars with a hydraulic clutch.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5098953-DIY-R32-Brake-Fluid-Flush-with-MOTIVE-Power-Bleeder
 

pruzink

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2004
Location
Granbury, Texas
TDI
GLS, 2004, silver
Another very inexpensive option for bleeding brakes is to buy a "speedbleeder" valve. It is a bleed valve with a spring loaded ball check that will allow the brake fluid to pump out, but the check prevents air from sucking back as the pedal is released.
 

vwman2

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2012
Location
Orange County NY
TDI
03 Jetta Wagon Tdi, 2010 Golf TDI
I did the brake job this past weekend and man It took me a lot longer to swap rotors than it usually does on my mk4. Taking the carriers off is a royal pain. VW really used some serious bolts.

while taking apart the rear I noticed the inside pad was a lot more worn then the out side, more so on the drivers side where it was down to nothing. what should I be looking for with un even wear like that.
Thanks
Jamie
 

Chockomon

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2011
Location
Jersey City, NJ
TDI
2010 Golf TDI
I did the brake job this past weekend and man It took me a lot longer to swap rotors than it usually does on my mk4. Taking the carriers off is a royal pain. VW really used some serious bolts.

while taking apart the rear I noticed the inside pad was a lot more worn then the out side, more so on the drivers side where it was down to nothing. what should I be looking for with un even wear like that.
Thanks
Jamie

Check your slider pins to make sure that they are moving freely. Also, ensure that the boots they are in are not torn. Add a little bit of grease to the slider pins upon reassembly. Note that you really only need a small amount of grease on the pins. Don't add a lot and end up with grease on your brakes!!


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