How to: Immo 3 cluster MFA in 99.5 car

waspie

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Location
ne ohio
TDI
05.5 pkg2!
So, you want to put an IMMO 3 cluster with half-height display in your 99.5 jetta?
I can’t do it for you, (well, actually I could if you’re willing to pay me) but I can try and help you do it yourself.
SOURCING PARTS/WIRES/EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
You’ll need to start with an IMMO 3 cluster. The part numbers for the clusters you’re most interested are: 1J0 920 926 and 1J5 920 926. The letter at the end for the most part is immaterial other than possibly meaning it will have a TDI tach face or not. Just stick with those two numbers and you should be able to get a good start on your search.

Once you’ve sourced the cluster you’ll also need the wiper stalk with the MFA buttons, repair wires, immobilizer coil and RFID tag, and outside temperature sensor. I don’t have specific part numbers for any of these parts. There are other threads with the necessary part numbers, I’ll try to link to them or bring that info into this post so you don’t have to search around. You may be able to use any old automotive NTC thermistor for your temperature sensor if you have something lying around, I didn’t try it so I can’t say for sure.

The immobilizer coil and RFID tag are sort of optional. If you don’t have them your cluster will loudly beep when you switch it on and complain about the immobilizer being active. The easiest way to get a working RFID tag is to hit ebay. I used these terms: “vw transponder 48” and found blank keys with transponders for $13 (shipped). Once you get the key pop it open and the RFID tag will pretty much just fall out.

You’re also going to need vag-com and vag-tacho. If you don’t have them, find someone who does.
If you’re familiar with your local junkyards you may be able to find a “you-pull-it” type yard. If you have one around find yourself a 2000+ donor jetta for the coil and a 98+ passat for the wiper stalk. To get the immobilizer coil you just remove the plastics from around the key cylinder and use a small flat blade to break if off of the ignition cylinder. The part of it you break to get it off the cylinder will not affect its usefulness . I’ll try to get a picture to better explain. For the passat you’ll need a T55 torx bit to get the steering wheel off. Once you pop the airbag off with a short flat blade screwdriver you’ll have access to the large nut. Take it off and pull the wheel off.

The rest is fairly self-explanatory as far as getting the wiper stalk. On both the coil and the wiper stalk if you have some wire cutters you can get all the wires and pigtails you’ll need from the donor cars. The passat will also have the outside temperature sensor. If the bumper cover is still on the car you can just reach up under there and snap that bad boy off and cut the wire leaving yourself plenty to solder to if you don’t feel like wasting a lot of time getting the whole wiring run.

SOLDERING LEDs/PREPARING YOUR CLUSTER
Now that you have all the parts, let’s focus on the 3 lights you’ll need to “modify” to make everything work without any fault codes. This diagram was made by upimpZauto. The 3 schematics are how the LEDs are hooked up on a stock TDI cluster. I’ve verified this by tracing everything from pin to LED and he’s dead on. If you have a spare cluster board you don’t care about and you’re handy with a soldering iron with a small tip you can take everything you need from the cluster board you don’t care about.
Here is the original diagram by unpimpZauto:


These three pictures explain visually what’s going on. They speak for themselves.




I used a small chunk of breadboard to make all my component connections. I then used an unused computer 80 pin ATA (hard drive) cable for the wires. Use a sharp knife or a finger nail and peel off individual wires and use these very small wires to make connections from pins to breadboard and from breadboard to LED. Here are some pictures to illustrate. You’ll also need to make one connection from one of the ground pins (BLUE connector) to the ground of the SRS circuit.



ADAPTING YOUR RFID TAG
That’s really the bulk of the hard stuff. The next steps will be to work on the immobilizer. For this you will need a friend with a 2000+ car. You’ll also be using your vag-tacho. First thing you’ll want to do is use vag-tacho to get an EEPROM dump of your cluster (your immo 3 cluster, not your stock TDI cluster). Save it somewhere and make a copy. Now, the reason you need a 2000+ car is you need a immobilizer capable car to adapt a RFID tag to your cluster (you can’t do that with your car). If you’re using a immo 3 car your steps will be easier ( I didn’t do it so I’m skipping the immo 3 to immo 3 transfer, sorry).

I used a immo 2 car and following these steps. Use vag-tacho and take a dump of your friend’s car’s cluster. You’ll now have 2 cluster files. Make sure to name them appropriately. One is your friend’s immo 2 cluster and the other is your immo 3 cluster. I’ll explain the hex edits later – for now you can PM me and I will take the immo 2 data and paste it into your immo 3 cluster. There are other forum members that can do this, if they would like to chime in that they’ll help – feel free.

This will make adapting your cluster easier. You’ll then take the EEPROM file I send you and write it to YOUR immo 3 cluster (NOT your friend’s cluster). You’ll need your friend’s immo 2 car again. Take their cluster out. If you flashed your cluster in their car then unplug your cluster after it has been flashed. Whatever you’re doing, make sure you unplug your cluster after it has been flashed. While it’s unplugged disassemble the GREEN cluster connector (in the immo 2 car). Carefully remove the wires at pin 2 and 17 of their green connector. Take the two pins from your coil and put one pin in slot 2 and the other in slot 17 (doesn’t matter which one is which) and make sure your RFID tag is oriented as shown. If it’s not, it may not be “seen” by the cluster. Secure your tag to the coil with electrical tape or something to keep it from moving. (PICTURE COMING)

Now that you have your immo coil hooked up and RFID tag situated plug your cluster back in (in the immo 2 car). Now, take your friend’s key and turn the ignition on-do not start the car, you just want the electronics to come alive. Plug in your vag-com and open VCDS. Go to 17 (instrument cluster). Once the information is loaded, go to “measuring blocks” (on the left side). In measuring blocks enter 022 and hit go (sorry, no pics). In the third box it should say something like “Key condition.” If that box is a 1 then that means your coil is reading the tag and you should be able to adapt that tag. If your tag is new then you can skip this step: check measuring block 023 box 2. If box 2 is a 0 then you can’t use that RFID tag (I think). Also check measuring block 024 box 1. Be sure box 1 is 0.0, if it is anything else the cluster is currently locked out and you need to wait for that to count down to 0.
Now that you’ve checked all your measuring blocks, exit that part so that you’re in the main instrument cluster area again. On the right side click the “Login” button. Use 0+pin code. You can get the pin code from vag-tacho or I’ll give it to you with the cluster EEPROM. If the code is 1234 the code you enter to login will be 01234. Let it login and then you’ll be ready to do the adaptation. If the trip mileage display reads “FAIL” the code isn’t right for some reason or you’re locked out. Click measuring blocks and check box 1 of measuring block 024 again (see above). If its anything other than 0 you have to wait. You don’t need to leave VCDS or turn off the ignition for the countdown to work. In fact, I think if you key it off it won’t count down. Just sit there and wait.

Assuming you logged in correctly hit the Adaptation button and go to channel 21. In the lower left box (doing this from memory) it should have a number between 1 and 8. You’re just adapting 1 RFID tag so put a 1 in there and hit test. As long as it doesn’t give you an error click save. Then I think you can click done and key off the ignition. After that I think you’re done. Key the ignition back on and you shouldn’t see any immobilizer *****ing. Take your cluster and coil out of your friend’s car and put his stuff back together. You’re almost done.

FINISHING UP

Install your coil into your green connector (pin 2&17) and stuff it back in there somewhere. Tidy up the wires and secure the coil to something then install your cluster. Use vag-tacho to set your mileage. Then use vag-com to set your “soft coding.” With all that done you should now have a fully working immo 3 cluster with all your lights working an no immobilizer *****ing.
I'm sure I'll edit this several times as I add/remove information and pictures.

Like a boss.
 
Last edited:

turbocharged798

Veteran Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Location
Ellenville, NY
TDI
99.5 black ALH Jetta;09 Gasser Jetta
Nice write up. I would just like point out that there is no reason that you have to use a immo3 cluster. I am using a immo2 cluster in my 99.5.

Also, you do not need to rewire the glow plug and check engine lights. They work fine over can-bus. You do, however, need to throw some resistors+ diodes across those wires as the ECU will throw codes for open glow plug and CEL circuits.

Maybe we can compile all the information we find out in this thread to make it easier for other people to do the swap.
 

waspie

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Location
ne ohio
TDI
05.5 pkg2!
^^^ is correct as he and others have done immo 2 clusters. the only advantage an immo 3 cluster offers over an immo 2 cluster is DTE or MTE which just means distance (miles) till empty - it tells you how many miles till you run out of fuel.

I was doing my swap about the same time TC ^^^ was doing his swap and did not know about the simple resistor trick - that's why i completely replicated the stock TDI LED wiring. unpimpZauto suggests that there might still be some discrepency with the glow plug light which is another reason why I wired it the way I did. I do not know the answer for sure, so I went with what will work without question.
here's the post: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=3250355&postcount=80

TC, i'm not saying you're wrong, I'm not saying I'm right. I wired it that way because I'm unsure. I do not mean to offend your efforts in any way.
 

turbocharged798

Veteran Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Location
Ellenville, NY
TDI
99.5 black ALH Jetta;09 Gasser Jetta
No problem. Very few people have done what we are doing so we are still making discoveries and learning about the swap.

As for the glow plug light, you could leave the face off, put the key on, and watch both of your LEDs. I would bet that your overlay GP LED will stay on for the same length of time as the cluster LED.
 

waspie

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Location
ne ohio
TDI
05.5 pkg2!
Probably, but it was already done :) oh well! your method will probably save someone some time so if nothing else, thanks for that.
 

s.pavel6

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2010
Location
Central NH / Boston, MA
TDI
99.5 Jetta TDI, 98 Jetta TDI
Sorry for bringing this up from the dead, but waspie, do you know what happened to the pictures? Any chance we could get them back?
Thanks!
 

waspie

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Location
ne ohio
TDI
05.5 pkg2!
no i do not know. i'll look through my stuff and see if i still have them. pm me directly if they're not up in a couple days
 

VWManDenmark

New member
Joined
Apr 15, 2012
Location
Denmark
TDI
none
can you please put the pictures on here again or maybe mail them to me? this is proberly what i need for getting my cluster to work a 100% does this also work on 98 cars with xxx919xxx cluster cars if you change cluster to xxx920xxx cluster? and hov do i get rpm signal from a mk3 golf vr6 engine and immo1 ecu from 1993 to cluster 1j5920926H? i have this engine in my mk4 golf from 1998.

I can not see the pictures here, it say that i must be a registeret user to se them..... :(

So, you want to put an IMMO 3 cluster with half-height display in your 99.5 jetta?
I can’t do it for you, (well, actually I could if you’re willing to pay me) but I can try and help you do it yourself.
SOURCING PARTS/WIRES/EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
You’ll need to start with an IMMO 3 cluster. The part numbers for the clusters you’re most interested are: 1J0 920 926 and 1J5 920 926. The letter at the end for the most part is immaterial other than possibly meaning it will have a TDI tach face or not. Just stick with those two numbers and you should be able to get a good start on your search.

Once you’ve sourced the cluster you’ll also need the wiper stalk with the MFA buttons, repair wires, immobilizer coil and RFID tag, and outside temperature sensor. I don’t have specific part numbers for any of these parts. There are other threads with the necessary part numbers, I’ll try to link to them or bring that info into this post so you don’t have to search around. You may be able to use any old automotive NTC thermistor for your temperature sensor if you have something lying around, I didn’t try it so I can’t say for sure.

The immobilizer coil and RFID tag are sort of optional. If you don’t have them your cluster will loudly beep when you switch it on and complain about the immobilizer being active. The easiest way to get a working RFID tag is to hit ebay. I used these terms: “vw transponder 48” and found blank keys with transponders for $13 (shipped). Once you get the key pop it open and the RFID tag will pretty much just fall out.

You’re also going to need vag-com and vag-tacho. If you don’t have them, find someone who does.
If you’re familiar with your local junkyards you may be able to find a “you-pull-it” type yard. If you have one around find yourself a 2000+ donor jetta for the coil and a 98+ passat for the wiper stalk. To get the immobilizer coil you just remove the plastics from around the key cylinder and use a small flat blade to break if off of the ignition cylinder. The part of it you break to get it off the cylinder will not affect its usefulness . I’ll try to get a picture to better explain. For the passat you’ll need a T55 torx bit to get the steering wheel off. Once you pop the airbag off with a short flat blade screwdriver you’ll have access to the large nut. Take it off and pull the wheel off.

The rest is fairly self-explanatory as far as getting the wiper stalk. On both the coil and the wiper stalk if you have some wire cutters you can get all the wires and pigtails you’ll need from the donor cars. The passat will also have the outside temperature sensor. If the bumper cover is still on the car you can just reach up under there and snap that bad boy off and cut the wire leaving yourself plenty to solder to if you don’t feel like wasting a lot of time getting the whole wiring run.

SOLDERING LEDs/PREPARING YOUR CLUSTER
Now that you have all the parts, let’s focus on the 3 lights you’ll need to “modify” to make everything work without any fault codes. This diagram was made by upimpZauto. The 3 schematics are how the LEDs are hooked up on a stock TDI cluster. I’ve verified this by tracing everything from pin to LED and he’s dead on. If you have a spare cluster board you don’t care about and you’re handy with a soldering iron with a small tip you can take everything you need from the cluster board you don’t care about.
Here is the original diagram by unpimpZauto:


These three pictures explain visually what’s going on. They speak for themselves.




I used a small chunk of breadboard to make all my component connections. I then used an unused computer 80 pin ATA (hard drive) cable for the wires. Use a sharp knife or a finger nail and peel off individual wires and use these very small wires to make connections from pins to breadboard and from breadboard to LED. Here are some pictures to illustrate. You’ll also need to make one connection from one of the ground pins (BLUE connector) to the ground of the SRS circuit.



ADAPTING YOUR RFID TAG
That’s really the bulk of the hard stuff. The next steps will be to work on the immobilizer. For this you will need a friend with a 2000+ car. You’ll also be using your vag-tacho. First thing you’ll want to do is use vag-tacho to get an EEPROM dump of your cluster (your immo 3 cluster, not your stock TDI cluster). Save it somewhere and make a copy. Now, the reason you need a 2000+ car is you need a immobilizer capable car to adapt a RFID tag to your cluster (you can’t do that with your car). If you’re using a immo 3 car your steps will be easier ( I didn’t do it so I’m skipping the immo 3 to immo 3 transfer, sorry).

I used a immo 2 car and following these steps. Use vag-tacho and take a dump of your friend’s car’s cluster. You’ll now have 2 cluster files. Make sure to name them appropriately. One is your friend’s immo 2 cluster and the other is your immo 3 cluster. I’ll explain the hex edits later – for now you can PM me and I will take the immo 2 data and paste it into your immo 3 cluster. There are other forum members that can do this, if they would like to chime in that they’ll help – feel free.

This will make adapting your cluster easier. You’ll then take the EEPROM file I send you and write it to YOUR immo 3 cluster (NOT your friend’s cluster). You’ll need your friend’s immo 2 car again. Take their cluster out. If you flashed your cluster in their car then unplug your cluster after it has been flashed. Whatever you’re doing, make sure you unplug your cluster after it has been flashed. While it’s unplugged disassemble the GREEN cluster connector (in the immo 2 car). Carefully remove the wires at pin 2 and 17 of their green connector. Take the two pins from your coil and put one pin in slot 2 and the other in slot 17 (doesn’t matter which one is which) and make sure your RFID tag is oriented as shown. If it’s not, it may not be “seen” by the cluster. Secure your tag to the coil with electrical tape or something to keep it from moving. (PICTURE COMING)

Now that you have your immo coil hooked up and RFID tag situated plug your cluster back in (in the immo 2 car). Now, take your friend’s key and turn the ignition on-do not start the car, you just want the electronics to come alive. Plug in your vag-com and open VCDS. Go to 17 (instrument cluster). Once the information is loaded, go to “measuring blocks” (on the left side). In measuring blocks enter 022 and hit go (sorry, no pics). In the third box it should say something like “Key condition.” If that box is a 1 then that means your coil is reading the tag and you should be able to adapt that tag. If your tag is new then you can skip this step: check measuring block 023 box 2. If box 2 is a 0 then you can’t use that RFID tag (I think). Also check measuring block 024 box 1. Be sure box 1 is 0.0, if it is anything else the cluster is currently locked out and you need to wait for that to count down to 0.
Now that you’ve checked all your measuring blocks, exit that part so that you’re in the main instrument cluster area again. On the right side click the “Login” button. Use 0+pin code. You can get the pin code from vag-tacho or I’ll give it to you with the cluster EEPROM. If the code is 1234 the code you enter to login will be 01234. Let it login and then you’ll be ready to do the adaptation. If the trip mileage display reads “FAIL” the code isn’t right for some reason or you’re locked out. Click measuring blocks and check box 1 of measuring block 024 again (see above). If its anything other than 0 you have to wait. You don’t need to leave VCDS or turn off the ignition for the countdown to work. In fact, I think if you key it off it won’t count down. Just sit there and wait.

Assuming you logged in correctly hit the Adaptation button and go to channel 21. In the lower left box (doing this from memory) it should have a number between 1 and 8. You’re just adapting 1 RFID tag so put a 1 in there and hit test. As long as it doesn’t give you an error click save. Then I think you can click done and key off the ignition. After that I think you’re done. Key the ignition back on and you shouldn’t see any immobilizer *****ing. Take your cluster and coil out of your friend’s car and put his stuff back together. You’re almost done.

FINISHING UP

Install your coil into your green connector (pin 2&17) and stuff it back in there somewhere. Tidy up the wires and secure the coil to something then install your cluster. Use vag-tacho to set your mileage. Then use vag-com to set your “soft coding.” With all that done you should now have a fully working immo 3 cluster with all your lights working an no immobilizer *****ing.
I'm sure I'll edit this several times as I add/remove information and pictures.

Like a boss.
 

Seatman

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Location
Scotland
TDI
2014 Skoda rapid elegance 1.6 cr tdi
Is this just with 99.5 cars or with 2000 cars too? I'm planning on fitting the immo 3 clocks in my immo 2 golf so am curious about this. It's the first time I've heard of any problems with these things.
 

jetta 97

Vendor
Joined
Dec 25, 2008
Location
Dallas (McKinney) ,TX ,USA
TDI
2 X Jatta MK5 2006
Is this just with 99.5 cars or with 2000 cars too? I'm planning on fitting the immo 3 clocks in my immo 2 golf so am curious about this. It's the first time I've heard of any problems with these things.
You should be good with Immo 3 Cluster in your car.

ONLY 98-99.5 cars has to have this modification with clusters 1J0 919 XXX, Some 98-99.5 did not have Can-H and Can-L in wiring harness going form ECU to Cluster. This has to be checked before anyone want to do this modification, otherwise it will not work.
 

Seatman

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Location
Scotland
TDI
2014 Skoda rapid elegance 1.6 cr tdi
I'll need to check out the ecu to cluster bus wires, I've not got the can bus in yet but am fitting it. I've got most of it all sussed out but not sure on those ones.
I've got it all sussed out for the electric windows and remote central locking and I know there's a connection from the ccm to the cluster which I've got figured too but that's the first time I've seen it mentioned about the ecu ones. The cluster in my car is a 1J0 920 xxx but I'll be fitting the immo 3 cluster with the half height mfa.
 

jetta 97

Vendor
Joined
Dec 25, 2008
Location
Dallas (McKinney) ,TX ,USA
TDI
2 X Jatta MK5 2006
I'll need to check out the ecu to cluster bus wires, I've not got the can bus in yet but am fitting it. I've got most of it all sussed out but not sure on those ones.
I've got it all sussed out for the electric windows and remote central locking and I know there's a connection from the ccm to the cluster which I've got figured too but that's the first time I've seen it mentioned about the ecu ones. The cluster in my car is a 1J0 920 xxx but I'll be fitting the immo 3 cluster with the half height mfa.
Immo 3 will work on your car. As long as you have 1J0 920 xxx cluster Immo 3 will work with no problems.

You need to use procedure for Immo 2 cluster swap.
 

Seatman

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Location
Scotland
TDI
2014 Skoda rapid elegance 1.6 cr tdi
Immo 3 will work on your car. As long as you have 1J0 920 xxx cluster Immo 3 will work with no problems.

You need to use procedure for Immo 2 cluster swap.

Cool, there's people around here that have vagtacho and know how to use it, I was just checking on that ecu to cluster can bus thing and that I didn't need to worry about it.
 

jetta 97

Vendor
Joined
Dec 25, 2008
Location
Dallas (McKinney) ,TX ,USA
TDI
2 X Jatta MK5 2006
can you please put the pictures on here again or maybe mail them to me? this is proberly what i need for getting my cluster to work a 100% does this also work on 98 cars with xxx919xxx cluster cars if you change cluster to xxx920xxx cluster? and hov do i get rpm signal from a mk3 golf vr6 engine and immo1 ecu from 1993 to cluster 1j5920926H? i have this engine in my mk4 golf from 1998.

I can not see the pictures here, it say that i must be a registeret user to se them..... :(
This will not work on your car because you have None CAN Bus ECU in that car.MK3 did not have CAN Bus.
Any 1J0 920 XXX or 1J5 920 XXX cluster reads RPM siganla via CAN Bus.
The best option is CAN Bus simulator , but I don't know where you can find one with setup you have in your car.
 

waspie

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Location
ne ohio
TDI
05.5 pkg2!
When I first had my 99.5 mk4 the ECU had been replaced with an ECU from a 98 beetle. The 98 beetle ECU did not have CAN functions though the wires were there. Had to source a 99.5 ECU to fix the problem. Thanks for bringing that up Jetta
 

gmenounos

Vendor
Joined
Jun 26, 2003
Location
Watertown, MA, USA
TDI
'99.5 Golf GLS, '01 Jetta GLX Wagon (TDI conversion)
If you’re familiar with your local junkyards you may be able to find a “you-pull-it” type yard. If you have one around find yourself a 2000+ donor jetta for the coil and a 98+ passat for the wiper stalk. To get the immobilizer coil you just remove the plastics from around the key cylinder and use a small flat blade to break if off of the ignition cylinder. The part of it you break to get it off the cylinder will not affect its usefulness . I’ll try to get a picture to better explain.
Here's a photo of the immobilizer coil and lock cylinder partially separated:



Here's a photo of them fully separated:



The lock cylinder is knurled where it's surrounded by the immobilizer coil, which helps lock the two together. After a bunch of failed attempts where I was trying to pry off the knurled part off the cylinder (I thought it was part of the immo coil but it's actually part of the lock cylinder and does not come off), I finally was able to pry just the black plastic immobilizer coil off.
 

Maksony

New member
Joined
Aug 14, 2013
Location
Russia Zlatoust
TDI
Golf IV
Good day! Friends, please help me, I want to change the dashboard with a 919 by 920
1J0919860D was no display, there is a dashboard 1J0920821A with display and trip computer, read the forums, but most of those have not shown a photo with soldering circuits. I programmed immo in a new dashboard, the engine started, but the tachometer does not work and there are errors: there is no communication with the control unit airbags, brake control systems, engine control unit. Emergency lights oil pressure light, with the old dashboard everything is fine.
 

Seatman

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Location
Scotland
TDI
2014 Skoda rapid elegance 1.6 cr tdi
You don't have can bus, I'm trying to find out if it can be added in though which is what you would also need. The rev counter wont work unless you can add can bus.
So far I'm getting the impression this would require an ecu swap but need to dig some more.

Trying to help out a friend with non can bus immo 2, I think though that there might be a half fis cluster around that's non can bus too.
 

jetta 97

Vendor
Joined
Dec 25, 2008
Location
Dallas (McKinney) ,TX ,USA
TDI
2 X Jatta MK5 2006
You don't have can bus, I'm trying to find out if it can be added in though which is what you would also need. The rev counter wont work unless you can add can bus.
So far I'm getting the impression this would require an ecu swap but need to dig some more.

Trying to help out a friend with non can bus immo 2, I think though that there might be a half fis cluster around that's non can bus too.
Good day! Friends, please help me, I want to change the dashboard with a 919 by 920
1J0919860D was no display, there is a dashboard 1J0920821A with display and trip computer, read the forums, but most of those have not shown a photo with soldering circuits. I programmed immo in a new dashboard, the engine started, but the tachometer does not work and there are errors: there is no communication with the control unit airbags, brake control systems, engine control unit. Emergency lights oil pressure light, with the old dashboard everything is fine.
Here is your answer:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=3126688&postcount=52
 
Top