So, you want to put an IMMO 3 cluster with half-height display in your 99.5 jetta?
I can’t do it for you, (well, actually I could if you’re willing to pay me) but I can try and help you do it yourself.
SOURCING PARTS/WIRES/EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
You’ll need to start with an IMMO 3 cluster. The part numbers for the clusters you’re most interested are: 1J0 920 926 and 1J5 920 926. The letter at the end for the most part is immaterial other than possibly meaning it will have a TDI tach face or not. Just stick with those two numbers and you should be able to get a good start on your search.

Once you’ve sourced the cluster you’ll also need the wiper stalk with the MFA buttons, repair wires, immobilizer coil and RFID tag, and outside temperature sensor. I don’t have specific part numbers for any of these parts. There are other threads with the necessary part numbers, I’ll try to link to them or bring that info into this post so you don’t have to search around. You may be able to use any old automotive NTC thermistor for your temperature sensor if you have something lying around, I didn’t try it so I can’t say for sure.
The immobilizer coil and RFID tag are sort of optional. If you don’t have them your cluster will loudly beep when you switch it on and complain about the immobilizer being active. The easiest way to get a working RFID tag is to hit ebay. I used these terms: “vw transponder 48” and found blank keys with transponders for $13 (shipped). Once you get the key pop it open and the RFID tag will pretty much just fall out.
You’re also going to need vag-com and vag-tacho. If you don’t have them, find someone who does.
If you’re familiar with your local junkyards you may be able to find a “you-pull-it” type yard. If you have one around find yourself a 2000+ donor jetta for the coil and a 98+ passat for the wiper stalk. To get the immobilizer coil you just remove the plastics from around the key cylinder and use a small flat blade to break if off of the ignition cylinder. The part of it you break to get it off the cylinder will not affect its usefulness . I’ll try to get a picture to better explain. For the passat you’ll need a T55 torx bit to get the steering wheel off. Once you pop the airbag off with a short flat blade screwdriver you’ll have access to the large nut. Take it off and pull the wheel off.
The rest is fairly self-explanatory as far as getting the wiper stalk. On both the coil and the wiper stalk if you have some wire cutters you can get all the wires and pigtails you’ll need from the donor cars. The passat will also have the outside temperature sensor. If the bumper cover is still on the car you can just reach up under there and snap that bad boy off and cut the wire leaving yourself plenty to solder to if you don’t feel like wasting a lot of time getting the whole wiring run.
SOLDERING LEDs/PREPARING YOUR CLUSTER
Now that you have all the parts, let’s focus on the 3 lights you’ll need to “modify” to make everything work without any fault codes. This diagram was made by upimpZauto. The 3 schematics are how the LEDs are hooked up on a stock TDI cluster. I’ve verified this by tracing everything from pin to LED and he’s dead on. If you have a spare cluster board you don’t care about and you’re handy with a soldering iron with a small tip you can take everything you need from the cluster board you don’t care about.
Here is the original diagram by unpimpZauto:

These three pictures explain visually what’s going on. They speak for themselves.



I used a small chunk of breadboard to make all my component connections. I then used an unused computer 80 pin ATA (hard drive) cable for the wires. Use a sharp knife or a finger nail and peel off individual wires and use these very small wires to make connections from pins to breadboard and from breadboard to LED. Here are some pictures to illustrate. You’ll also need to make one connection from one of the ground pins (BLUE connector) to the ground of the SRS circuit.


ADAPTING YOUR RFID TAG
That’s really the bulk of the hard stuff. The next steps will be to work on the immobilizer. For this you will need a friend with a 2000+ car. You’ll also be using your vag-tacho. First thing you’ll want to do is use vag-tacho to get an EEPROM dump of your cluster (your immo 3 cluster, not your stock TDI cluster). Save it somewhere and make a copy. Now, the reason you need a 2000+ car is you need a immobilizer capable car to adapt a RFID tag to your cluster (you can’t do that with your car). If you’re using a immo 3 car your steps will be easier ( I didn’t do it so I’m skipping the immo 3 to immo 3 transfer, sorry).
I used a immo 2 car and following these steps. Use vag-tacho and take a dump of your friend’s car’s cluster. You’ll now have 2 cluster files. Make sure to name them appropriately. One is your friend’s immo 2 cluster and the other is your immo 3 cluster. I’ll explain the hex edits later – for now you can PM me and I will take the immo 2 data and paste it into your immo 3 cluster. There are other forum members that can do this, if they would like to chime in that they’ll help – feel free.
This will make adapting your cluster easier. You’ll then take the EEPROM file I send you and write it to YOUR immo 3 cluster (NOT your friend’s cluster). You’ll need your friend’s immo 2 car again. Take their cluster out. If you flashed your cluster in their car then unplug your cluster after it has been flashed. Whatever you’re doing, make sure you unplug your cluster after it has been flashed. While it’s unplugged disassemble the GREEN cluster connector (in the immo 2 car). Carefully remove the wires at pin 2 and 17 of their green connector. Take the two pins from your coil and put one pin in slot 2 and the other in slot 17 (doesn’t matter which one is which) and make sure your RFID tag is oriented as shown. If it’s not, it may not be “seen” by the cluster. Secure your tag to the coil with electrical tape or something to keep it from moving. (PICTURE COMING)
Now that you have your immo coil hooked up and RFID tag situated plug your cluster back in (in the immo 2 car). Now, take your friend’s key and turn the ignition on-do not start the car, you just want the electronics to come alive. Plug in your vag-com and open VCDS. Go to 17 (instrument cluster). Once the information is loaded, go to “measuring blocks” (on the left side). In measuring blocks enter 022 and hit go (sorry, no pics). In the third box it should say something like “Key condition.” If that box is a 1 then that means your coil is reading the tag and you should be able to adapt that tag. If your tag is new then you can skip this step: check measuring block 023 box 2. If box 2 is a 0 then you can’t use that RFID tag (I think). Also check measuring block 024 box 1. Be sure box 1 is 0.0, if it is anything else the cluster is currently locked out and you need to wait for that to count down to 0.
Now that you’ve checked all your measuring blocks, exit that part so that you’re in the main instrument cluster area again. On the right side click the “Login” button. Use 0+pin code. You can get the pin code from vag-tacho or I’ll give it to you with the cluster EEPROM. If the code is 1234 the code you enter to login will be 01234. Let it login and then you’ll be ready to do the adaptation. If the trip mileage display reads “FAIL” the code isn’t right for some reason or you’re locked out. Click measuring blocks and check box 1 of measuring block 024 again (see above). If its anything other than 0 you have to wait. You don’t need to leave VCDS or turn off the ignition for the countdown to work. In fact, I think if you key it off it won’t count down. Just sit there and wait.
Assuming you logged in correctly hit the Adaptation button and go to channel 21. In the lower left box (doing this from memory) it should have a number between 1 and 8. You’re just adapting 1 RFID tag so put a 1 in there and hit test. As long as it doesn’t give you an error click save. Then I think you can click done and key off the ignition. After that I think you’re done. Key the ignition back on and you shouldn’t see any immobilizer *****ing. Take your cluster and coil out of your friend’s car and put his stuff back together. You’re almost done.
FINISHING UP
Install your coil into your green connector (pin 2&17) and stuff it back in there somewhere. Tidy up the wires and secure the coil to something then install your cluster. Use vag-tacho to set your mileage. Then use vag-com to set your “soft coding.” With all that done you should now have a fully working immo 3 cluster with all your lights working an no immobilizer *****ing.
I'm sure I'll edit this several times as I add/remove information and pictures.
Like a boss.
I can’t do it for you, (well, actually I could if you’re willing to pay me) but I can try and help you do it yourself.
SOURCING PARTS/WIRES/EVERYTHING YOU NEED:
You’ll need to start with an IMMO 3 cluster. The part numbers for the clusters you’re most interested are: 1J0 920 926 and 1J5 920 926. The letter at the end for the most part is immaterial other than possibly meaning it will have a TDI tach face or not. Just stick with those two numbers and you should be able to get a good start on your search.
Once you’ve sourced the cluster you’ll also need the wiper stalk with the MFA buttons, repair wires, immobilizer coil and RFID tag, and outside temperature sensor. I don’t have specific part numbers for any of these parts. There are other threads with the necessary part numbers, I’ll try to link to them or bring that info into this post so you don’t have to search around. You may be able to use any old automotive NTC thermistor for your temperature sensor if you have something lying around, I didn’t try it so I can’t say for sure.
The immobilizer coil and RFID tag are sort of optional. If you don’t have them your cluster will loudly beep when you switch it on and complain about the immobilizer being active. The easiest way to get a working RFID tag is to hit ebay. I used these terms: “vw transponder 48” and found blank keys with transponders for $13 (shipped). Once you get the key pop it open and the RFID tag will pretty much just fall out.
You’re also going to need vag-com and vag-tacho. If you don’t have them, find someone who does.
If you’re familiar with your local junkyards you may be able to find a “you-pull-it” type yard. If you have one around find yourself a 2000+ donor jetta for the coil and a 98+ passat for the wiper stalk. To get the immobilizer coil you just remove the plastics from around the key cylinder and use a small flat blade to break if off of the ignition cylinder. The part of it you break to get it off the cylinder will not affect its usefulness . I’ll try to get a picture to better explain. For the passat you’ll need a T55 torx bit to get the steering wheel off. Once you pop the airbag off with a short flat blade screwdriver you’ll have access to the large nut. Take it off and pull the wheel off.
The rest is fairly self-explanatory as far as getting the wiper stalk. On both the coil and the wiper stalk if you have some wire cutters you can get all the wires and pigtails you’ll need from the donor cars. The passat will also have the outside temperature sensor. If the bumper cover is still on the car you can just reach up under there and snap that bad boy off and cut the wire leaving yourself plenty to solder to if you don’t feel like wasting a lot of time getting the whole wiring run.
SOLDERING LEDs/PREPARING YOUR CLUSTER
Now that you have all the parts, let’s focus on the 3 lights you’ll need to “modify” to make everything work without any fault codes. This diagram was made by upimpZauto. The 3 schematics are how the LEDs are hooked up on a stock TDI cluster. I’ve verified this by tracing everything from pin to LED and he’s dead on. If you have a spare cluster board you don’t care about and you’re handy with a soldering iron with a small tip you can take everything you need from the cluster board you don’t care about.
Here is the original diagram by unpimpZauto:

These three pictures explain visually what’s going on. They speak for themselves.



I used a small chunk of breadboard to make all my component connections. I then used an unused computer 80 pin ATA (hard drive) cable for the wires. Use a sharp knife or a finger nail and peel off individual wires and use these very small wires to make connections from pins to breadboard and from breadboard to LED. Here are some pictures to illustrate. You’ll also need to make one connection from one of the ground pins (BLUE connector) to the ground of the SRS circuit.
ADAPTING YOUR RFID TAG
That’s really the bulk of the hard stuff. The next steps will be to work on the immobilizer. For this you will need a friend with a 2000+ car. You’ll also be using your vag-tacho. First thing you’ll want to do is use vag-tacho to get an EEPROM dump of your cluster (your immo 3 cluster, not your stock TDI cluster). Save it somewhere and make a copy. Now, the reason you need a 2000+ car is you need a immobilizer capable car to adapt a RFID tag to your cluster (you can’t do that with your car). If you’re using a immo 3 car your steps will be easier ( I didn’t do it so I’m skipping the immo 3 to immo 3 transfer, sorry).
I used a immo 2 car and following these steps. Use vag-tacho and take a dump of your friend’s car’s cluster. You’ll now have 2 cluster files. Make sure to name them appropriately. One is your friend’s immo 2 cluster and the other is your immo 3 cluster. I’ll explain the hex edits later – for now you can PM me and I will take the immo 2 data and paste it into your immo 3 cluster. There are other forum members that can do this, if they would like to chime in that they’ll help – feel free.
This will make adapting your cluster easier. You’ll then take the EEPROM file I send you and write it to YOUR immo 3 cluster (NOT your friend’s cluster). You’ll need your friend’s immo 2 car again. Take their cluster out. If you flashed your cluster in their car then unplug your cluster after it has been flashed. Whatever you’re doing, make sure you unplug your cluster after it has been flashed. While it’s unplugged disassemble the GREEN cluster connector (in the immo 2 car). Carefully remove the wires at pin 2 and 17 of their green connector. Take the two pins from your coil and put one pin in slot 2 and the other in slot 17 (doesn’t matter which one is which) and make sure your RFID tag is oriented as shown. If it’s not, it may not be “seen” by the cluster. Secure your tag to the coil with electrical tape or something to keep it from moving. (PICTURE COMING)
Now that you have your immo coil hooked up and RFID tag situated plug your cluster back in (in the immo 2 car). Now, take your friend’s key and turn the ignition on-do not start the car, you just want the electronics to come alive. Plug in your vag-com and open VCDS. Go to 17 (instrument cluster). Once the information is loaded, go to “measuring blocks” (on the left side). In measuring blocks enter 022 and hit go (sorry, no pics). In the third box it should say something like “Key condition.” If that box is a 1 then that means your coil is reading the tag and you should be able to adapt that tag. If your tag is new then you can skip this step: check measuring block 023 box 2. If box 2 is a 0 then you can’t use that RFID tag (I think). Also check measuring block 024 box 1. Be sure box 1 is 0.0, if it is anything else the cluster is currently locked out and you need to wait for that to count down to 0.
Now that you’ve checked all your measuring blocks, exit that part so that you’re in the main instrument cluster area again. On the right side click the “Login” button. Use 0+pin code. You can get the pin code from vag-tacho or I’ll give it to you with the cluster EEPROM. If the code is 1234 the code you enter to login will be 01234. Let it login and then you’ll be ready to do the adaptation. If the trip mileage display reads “FAIL” the code isn’t right for some reason or you’re locked out. Click measuring blocks and check box 1 of measuring block 024 again (see above). If its anything other than 0 you have to wait. You don’t need to leave VCDS or turn off the ignition for the countdown to work. In fact, I think if you key it off it won’t count down. Just sit there and wait.
Assuming you logged in correctly hit the Adaptation button and go to channel 21. In the lower left box (doing this from memory) it should have a number between 1 and 8. You’re just adapting 1 RFID tag so put a 1 in there and hit test. As long as it doesn’t give you an error click save. Then I think you can click done and key off the ignition. After that I think you’re done. Key the ignition back on and you shouldn’t see any immobilizer *****ing. Take your cluster and coil out of your friend’s car and put his stuff back together. You’re almost done.
FINISHING UP
Install your coil into your green connector (pin 2&17) and stuff it back in there somewhere. Tidy up the wires and secure the coil to something then install your cluster. Use vag-tacho to set your mileage. Then use vag-com to set your “soft coding.” With all that done you should now have a fully working immo 3 cluster with all your lights working an no immobilizer *****ing.
I'm sure I'll edit this several times as I add/remove information and pictures.
Like a boss.
Last edited: