How-To: Flakey Turn Signal Clicking Fix.

Deadend

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2009
Location
Calgary
TDI
2001 Jetta
I hope is ok to bring this old thread back. I was wondering if you had to remove the airbag to apply WD40?
Taking off the airbag won't help if you're fixing the switch in place (if you get the airbag off you might as well go all the way anyhow). Just aim the nozzle in the signal stock.

Personally I don't want my cabin smelling like my garage, but if it works it works I guess.
 

tikal

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2001
Location
Southeast Texas
TDI
2004 Passat Wagon (chainless + 5 MT + GDE tune)
Taking off the airbag won't help if you're fixing the switch in place (if you get the airbag off you might as well go all the way anyhow). Just aim the nozzle in the signal stock.

Personally I don't want my cabin smelling like my garage, but if it works it works I guess.
How about using Wurth HHS-K lubricant instead of WD-40? Perhaps less smelly?
 

shoebear

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2002
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
TDI
1998 Jetta, 2003 Jetta Wagon, 2005 New Beetle, 2013 Sportwagen
I did the full overhaul to my 2005 New Beetle a couple of years ago. No odor in the cabin, and it's been working perfectly since then. One additional thing I did: there are a couple of interchangeable copper contacts that wear inside the switch. One of them was worn much more than the other, so I replaced that contact with one from a junker switch. The junk switch had the same issue, but I just took the lightly worn contact from it.

Now I need to do this again; I bought a 2003 Jetta TDi wagon with the same issue.
 

SFHGolfTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Location
Ventura, CA
TDI
2002 Jolf GLS TDI - Reflex Silver (purchased 2011) | Previously: 2001 Golf GL TDI - Indigo Blue (sold 2005)
I would stick with an electronics specific cleaner like Deoxit or a contact cleaner of some sort. I sprayed mine (no disassembly) about a year ago and haven't had the problem recur since.
 

Panici

New member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Location
Canada
TDI
MK4 Jetta
I have an interim fix for headlights (lowbeams and highbeams) that don't work due to a faulty turn signal stalk.

It takes so much time to pull the wheel and everything, and that sucks when it's freezing outside.

You'll need the Euro switch.
What I did was pull the DRL wire from the headlight connector (3 - TFL) and put it into the vacant rear fog slot (9 - NSL).

Now you can run the DRLs manually by pulling the switch out two clicks, and the running lights+tail lights are also on in the middle switch position.


Only took a few minutes once I figured out how to pull the wire from the connector, and now I don't have to worry about replacing the stalk until the spring.

Only bad thing is no highbeams, but in my case, the Flash-to-pass portion of the signal stalk still works, so no biggie.
 

GASDAG

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2013
Location
Columbus, OH
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS 5MT Sedan Silver, 2004 GMC Sierra i.e. no need for a wagon
I sprayed compressed air and then electronics cleaner spray all around where my stalk meets the column, and around the hazard button on the dash. Problem came back a year later. I just repeated the compressed air and electronic cleaner at the same spots. I just sprayed and prayed ha..
So my next steps, if the clicking comes back, which I'm guessing it will, is to remove the source of the clicking sound. My actual turn signals don't flash when the random clicking happens, so I think if I disable the actual clicking sound, I will solve the annoyance without buying a new switch or doing this miserable remove and replace job. So if I pop off my hazard switch, and look for the source of the clicking, what should I be looking for? Bentley does not say. I can feel a clicking vibration when pressing the hazard switch, so I'm wondering what I need to remove from behind the hazard switch. I don't mind not having any clicking at all as long as my indicator lights work on the instrument panel showing me which turn signal is flashing. Am I risking anything by disabling the clicking sound?
 

shift957

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2015
Location
Asheboro, North Carolina
TDI
'02 Jetta
After reading this whole thread and varied success of WD-40 and other solvents, I decided to go to Radio Shack and pick up their cleaner/lubricant spray.



I shot quick blasts top and bottom, front and back, then moved the signal arm in al directions a bit. I repeated the process one more time and wiped up any excess and splatter. Seems to have worked well. I'll update if the clicking returns. I'm sure it will, as I drive a lot and use signals all the time.
 

Jode

Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2015
Location
Utah
TDI
2002 Jetta
FYI, I did the heater core replacement job a few months back. It requires removal of the steering wheel, airbags, dash panels, and even disconnecting the steering column. The write-up from this site was awesome, but as soon as the job was done, I was left with this clicking sound. It is getting worse every time I drive the car. Obviously I disturbed something or didn't get an electrical connection tightened back up all the way.
Anyway, the point of my post is to point out that this (seemingly common) contact cleaning procedure could be completed with virtually no extra work during the heater core replacement process. It would be awesome if a mod could somehow make a note of this point in the heater core replacement instructions.

;) Thanks agian for all the awesome info. This repair should be a cinch compared to the work behind that heater core job...:eek:
 

TornadoRed

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2003
Location
Saint Paul (ex-San Diego)
TDI
2003 Golf GL 5-spd, red; 2003 Golf GLS 5-spd, indigo blue; 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, Candy White
I've posted a lot in this thread, during the last 620k+ miles and almost 14 years.

Constant clicking returned today, for the first time since I replaced the multi-function switch in 2012. Clicking stopped with turn signal stalk moved to left- or right-turn positions.

I thought I had some of that RadioShack Contact Cleaner, but could not find it. So I tried a Dupont Teflon Lubricant, which may be a very good lubricant but it did nothing to remove the filings or dirt or whatever was causing voltage to leak to the flasher unit.

Then I went back to the old reliable: WD-40. And the clicking has stopped, for now. I sprayed a lot in there, using the plastic straw. It probably won't be a permanent fix -- it wasn't in the past -- but everything works and the clicking is no longer a constant annoyance.
 

v45

Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2015
Location
Utah
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta ALH Wgn 5spd
I sprayed & prayed :) Going from Hi beams back to low my lights would go out.
I sprayed Deoxit D5 in the base of the turn signal stalk with the straw into the small holes on the top and bottom flushing & cycling the switch, I let it sit for several hours and took it for a test drive when it got dark hoping I wasn't going to have to drive my truck to work in the morning. It has only been 1 week and the switch is alittle stiffer to operate but the lights are working now.
Thanks for the many posts & taking the time to wrtie up a how to thread on this, it was very helpful.
 

stilill

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 25, 2005
Location
virginia
TDI
Golf,2005,Black,GLS
Dont use wd40

Before taking the turn signal column apart and cleaning it, i had tried the spraying of wd40 into the column for a bit, this is a temporary fix, and eventually the clicking returned. So i sprayed some more wd40 into the column to "fix" it again. After a while, the wd40 built up into a gooky mess, and the electric connectors caused it to ignite, causing burning plastic smell, fumes, and yes, smoke :eek: I was able to extinguish the smoldering plastic, and luckily the column and connectors are still usable, but it gave me a good scare. I do not recommend the wd40 fix, even temporarily. After taking it apart and cleaning it, it has not returned over the past 6 years. of course, now that i say that...
 

WhealtonS

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2017
Location
Florida
TDI
2001 VW JETTA TDI
Hello,

I replaced all of my relays below the steering column, hazard switch (2 times just to be sure), both light bulb socket housings for side markers on the upper fender, turning stalk (2 times just to be sure) and wiper stalk, cleaned all grounding points, replaced fuses and my turn signals won't engage (neither will high beams when fully pressed forward, pulling back will engage high beams temporarily as it should)

I keep getting 8.2-8.5 volts from the 22 & 23 fuse slots regardless if I have anything plugged in when I have the lights turned on. I have disconnected headlights, tail lights, relays, bulbs and I still get these results.

From fuse 2 (Turn signals) I get 5.4 volts when left signal is engaged and 4.8-5.4 volts (fluctuates semi rapidly) when the right signal is engaged. No lights show up on the dash or externally when the turn signal is engaged.

The only way the side makers come on is when I lock/unlock the car or when I press the hazard switch.

Any ideas? Thank you for your help and I have tried most of the ideas on this thread but no luck yet.
 
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TornadoRed

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2003
Location
Saint Paul (ex-San Diego)
TDI
2003 Golf GL 5-spd, red; 2003 Golf GLS 5-spd, indigo blue; 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, Candy White
Hello,

I replaced all of my relays below the steering column, hazard switch (2 times just to be sure), both light bulb socket housings for side markers on the upper fender, turning stalk (2 times just to be sure) and wiper stalk, cleaned all grounding points, replaced fuses and my turn signals won't engage (neither will high beams when fully pressed forward, pulling back will engage high beams temporarily as it should)
About seven years ago I had to replace the multifunction switch (the stalk left side of the steering column. This was one of the very few times I've gone to a VW dealership; they did the job quickly and for a reasonable price -- part was $99 and labor $110.
 

wonneber

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Location
Monroe, NY, USA
TDI
2014 Jetta Sportwagen, 2021 Atlas,2003 Jetta 261K Sold but not forgotten
I keep getting 8.2-8.5 volts from the 22 & 23 fuse slots regardless if I have anything plugged in when I have the lights turned on. I have disconnected headlights, tail lights, relays, bulbs and I still get these results.
From fuse 2 (Turn signals) I get 5.4 volts when left signal is engaged and 4.8-5.4 volts (fluctuates semi rapidly) when the right signal is engaged. No lights show up on the dash or externally when the turn signal is engaged.
Those 3 fuses get power from the head light switch pins 13, 14, and 16.

Check pin 15 which is the power feed to the head light switch.

I think it gets power from the fuse box above the battery but not positive if it does.
 

WhealtonS

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2017
Location
Florida
TDI
2001 VW JETTA TDI
Hell yes!!! Thank you Wonneber and Fix_Until_Broke. I will check those areas out. I'll let you know what I find.

Also, thank you for the wiring diagram. It is crystal clear quality.
 

WhealtonS

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2017
Location
Florida
TDI
2001 VW JETTA TDI
Welp...I tested pin 15 and it is getting 12.3 V, the battery is putting out 12.4 V. When checking all of the connections in my battery fuse box I noticed that the S163 line (Fuel pump & glow plug relay) is getting 10.8-11V. I changed out all of my relays already, so it's probably harness related ��

I changed out my headlight switch for kicks too, no changes.

I also swapped out the load reduction relay for new one again. No changes. I replaced and checked all of my fuses, no changes. I believe I will have to check the entire harness for defects. Yay!
 
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wonneber

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Location
Monroe, NY, USA
TDI
2014 Jetta Sportwagen, 2021 Atlas,2003 Jetta 261K Sold but not forgotten
Welp...I tested pin 15 and it is getting 12.3 V, the battery is putting out 12.4 V. When checking all of the connections in my battery fuse box I noticed that the S163 line (Fuel pump & glow plug relay) is getting 10.8-11V. I changed out all of my relays already, so it's probably harness related ��

I changed out my headlight switch for kicks too, no changes.

I also swapped out the load reduction relay for new one again. No changes. I replaced and checked all of my fuses, no changes. I believe I will have to check the entire harness for defects. Yay!
Before you spend a ton of money on 'guess a part' try to track the voltage loss to S163.
Some of those fuses get feed right from the battery.

Put the positive lead of the meter on the battery positive terminal. (I usually prefer the post but for this it should be ok)
Put the negative lead on the point where the fuse block gets power from the battery.
I would not want to see more then a few tenths of a volt. This is a voltage drop test by the way.

Then measure at both sides of the fuse with the negative lead.
Again no more then a few tenths of a volt.

I use Tee pins to probe into the wires, a straight pin also works.
Keep tracing the wires to see where the loss is and you get a 1.5 volt reading.

Electric isn't easy for everyone but with practice you will get the hang of it. :)

The wiring diagram posted is the type I like and learned to read them back in the 70's :cool:
 

CharlesKelkV

New member
Joined
Jun 10, 2021
Location
NJ, USA
TDI
Mk4
2021 and this is still the best thread out there for this problem.
As to the 2 “clips” on the plastic cover to the turn signal stalk- I had a spare 3/32” cabinet screwdriver that I put a small bend in. Maybe 20 degree, right at the tip. It popped the cap off without even prying. Again, pushing from the back (where the copper pins are)
 
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