HOW TO change the lower control arm bushing

[kwong7]

Looking at doing both my control arms bushing and ball joints tomorrow, do I need to replace my lower control arm bushing bolts? The videos on YouTube all seem to just reuse the bolts, is this wise?

I would definitely recommend replacing the bolts with new ones. Stretch bolts are generally a one-time use thing and you really don't want a bolt like this to come loose while you're driving. The same goes for the motor mounts. However, I've reused strut mount and spindle bolts in the past. I figure there is a lot less load and torque on these. I made sure to use a torque wrench and dialed an extra 10%. I recheck a few hundred miles later and they stayed at their torque levels...200K miles and everything is still fine.

 

[minis2003]

Time to name a trip to the dealer ��
This is what I get when I did not plan ahead

 

[eddie_1]

I finally got around to doing these. Some observations:
- As I posted earlier the bushings can be pushed in and out with some washers, bolts and 1/2" threaded rod from Home Depot equivalent. A 59mm washer worked well for the main bushing.
- To remove the ball joint nut, the trick as mentioned by someone else was to keep unscrewing the nut against axle until it pops out. If you stop halfway and try to push it down, it will pop lower but then the spindle will keep turning and will need to be held with something else and will possbily damage the boot. (This is not mentioned in the youtube video)
- Also to get at the ball joint nut, turn the steering to the opposite side of the car. See which direction works best for you. (also mentioned before)
- For the sway bar bushing I used another bolt same diameter but a bit longer to compress the clamp first. Then it was easier to get the original one in with some plier pressure.
- I measuerd the old LCA distance versus new LCA and distance for example between bushings and balljoint, and all distances were pretty close.
Car feels really great now with TT bushings and the other new supporting parts.

Some relevant torque specs:
1) Axle nut
200NM
loosen 1/2 turn
turn wheel 1/2 turn
then tighten to 50NM then
1/6 turn (not applicable to LCA)
2) Ball Joint Nut to Knuckle: 45NM
3) LCA to Ball Joint x3: 20NM + 1/4 turn
4) rear bushing nut: 70NM + 1/4 turn (70lb in video)
5) front bushing nut: 70NM + 1/4 turn (70lb in video)
6) sway bar link connector below: 15NM
7) sway bar link connector above: 15NM
8) sway bar bushing: 25NM

 

[Estergard87]

First and foremost, thank you Wingnut and everyone else for the how-to with all the pics and tips. I just did a suspension refresh and everything went pretty smooth for me. A few notes though to those who come across this thread:

1) If you're doing LCA bushings, ball joints, and tie rod ends, use a pickle fork to get the ball joints/tie rod ends out of the knuckle if they won't budge like mine did.
2) If you buy that cheap "press" from harbor freight that the guy posted videos of.. beware. This thing is absolute Chinese garbage with zero leverage. It got the job done, but it was a PITA.
3) To get the rear LCA bolt all the way in so you can get it threaded, you gotta hit it with a hammer.
4) If you have air tools, disconnect the axle, it makes everything way easier.
5) Freeze the bushings, soap/water them up, and they'll slide right in..even with a cheap Chinese "press".
6) When installing the LCA, I put the front bushing in first, then used my legs to push the rear bushing in. Then the ball joint, then the axle. Then the tie rod ends.
7) Take a drive afterward and enjoy your work. When you get home, have a beer and get ready to be sore tomorrow. Those rear LCA bolts and nuts are rusty and at awkward angels.

 

[Golf2K]

This whole procedure is best with two people, your having an issue with something an extra pair of hands helps.

I just did the LCA Bushings and Ball Joints this is what I found out to work best.

You need impact, if you dont, pay someone to do this job.

When reinstalling the A Arm back on the car make sure to have the ball joint installed on the A-arm. First get the rear bushing in place First with the bolt and nut just a few threads, then do the front bushing bolt just a few threads, turn the steering wheel to which ever side that makes it easier to get the Ball Joint into the knuckle. Just pull on the rotor and you'll get it. If you do try to do the ball joint first you will not get the Rear bushing in place to bolt.

Use the bearing press that is mentioned in previous posts to REMOVE the LCA rear bushing but DO NOT use it to Re-install; instead use the vice and wood method. Instead what I did was use one of the spacers/adapters from the ball joint press kit; in combination with the bench vice and a drilled out piece of wood for the back side of the A-Arm. Make sure to have the vice jaw in the middle of the spacer otherwise when the pressure takes over the bushing will go in crooked; this is also why it is good to have an extra pair of hands as you may have to hold every in place rather than rest it on the vice. Take your time, and always pull it out to check the distance and evenness. The reason I say do not use the bearing press to install is that it goes too fast and its too hard to keep straight if using a impact or ratchet, the whole tool starts to move about and it will not supply pressure evenly.

I did not see it mentioned but the Rear Bushing needs to be flush with the metal lip that is welded onto the back side of the A-Arm, if it is not, then you installed it wrong.

I started putting in the bushing it was going in wrong, it was half way, I got it out and no damage, no need to freeze, just use a bit of grease of the outside of the bushing.

To get the Ball Joint off the car (providing you are installing a new set) you do not need to put the rotors off the axle. This is what you do, maybe it was already mentioned. Turn the nut until it butts into the axle, and continue until it "pops", then get a cheap blue bottle propane torch and put it on the nut until the nylon in the nut fries, you will see it smoking and making a burning sounds. Now you can get the nut off other wise the ball joint shaft will turn along with the nut. -- Upon installation you will run into a similar problem, but my new ball joint did not have a locknut so I turned it until the ball joint shaft was turning, assemble the rest of the car, take it off the jacks, turn the steering wheel all the way left than right, then you should still be able to turn the ball joint nut with the car on the ground, but I only get about 2 or 3 threads protruding until the ball joint shaft started to turn, I assume it will not back out as they are spinning together now.

 

[towforce]

I've got a bunch of stuff that is coming due on the "wifes" Jetta wagon, I was planning on refreshing shocks and springs, looks like I should add a refresh to the control arms (370,000 km's)... Thanks to all the posts, nothing looks overly difficult but I had this question....

Looks like I might as well do the ball joints, so if I'm going to to replace them, I'm assuming the bolts are one time use, what is the common practice for assembly if your going to drive the car over to an alignment shop? Pretty much assume they will be loosening the bolts off to set up the alignment so not much point in installing to spec.. should I use the old bolt set and hand the new set over to the shop or install the new set, torque up to spec but no 1/4 turn (or what ever VW requires.)...

One other question, if I pretty much have every front supension part off of the car anyway... might it be a good time to take on my aging clutch? .... oh god.... I think the timing belt is due again soon....

Cheers

Martin

 

[RacerTodd]

Looks like I might as well do the ball joints, so if I'm going to to replace them, I'm assuming the bolts are one time use, what is the common practice for assembly if your going to drive the car over to an alignment shop? Pretty much assume they will be loosening the bolts off to set up the alignment so not much point in installing to spec.. should I use the old bolt set and hand the new set over to the shop or install the new set, torque up to spec but no 1/4 turn (or what ever VW requires.)...

Aligning the car doesn't require the ball joint bolts to be loosened or messed with. Even if they were loosened and moved back and forth, it'd only change the camber a small amount. The only alignment adjustment that is made is toe, camber and caster are generally non-adjustable.
Install the ball joints, tighten the bolts to spec and drive it to the alignment shop.

 

[FATCAT]

Watch out for the Cntl Arm Flag Nut!

I've got a bunch of stuff that is coming due on the "wifes" Jetta wagon, I was planning on refreshing shocks and springs, looks like I should add a refresh to the control arms (370,000 km's)... Thanks to all the posts, nothing looks overly difficult but I had this question....

Looks like I might as well do the ball joints, so if I'm going to to replace them, I'm assuming the bolts are one time use, what is the common practice for assembly if your going to drive the car over to an alignment shop? Pretty much assume they will be loosening the bolts off to set up the alignment so not much point in installing to spec.. should I use the old bolt set and hand the new set over to the shop or install the new set, torque up to spec but no 1/4 turn (or what ever VW requires.)...

One other question, if I pretty much have every front supension part off of the car anyway... might it be a good time to take on my aging clutch? .... oh god.... I think the timing belt is due again soon....

Cheers

Martin

I'm in the same boat. 355,000 miles on my Jetta and the control arm bushings are shot (everything is original).
I was going to do the job myself (+ ball joints and tie rods), but I have read too many horror stories about the "Flag nut" on the horizontal control arm bolt breaking off and not being able to get at the nut since it is entrapped within the subframe that it was spot-welded to. You would have to drill a hole or cut away a section of the subframe to get at it and now you just compromised the integrity of the frame.
Got a quote from a local garage for about $1000 to do the entire front end ... aaaahhhh! Looks like I'll have to raid the savings account for this one.

I wish you luck replacing the control arms, but from what I have read they ALWAYS break off. I wish I could be sure these Flag Nuts won't break off, I would do the job then, but if they did I would be royally screwed!

Just have a plan and a welder with you when/if they break.

Good luck.

 

[towforce]

but I have read too many horror stories about the "Flag nut" on the horizontal control arm bolt breaking off and not being able to get at the nut since it is entrapped within the subframe that it was spot-welded to. You would have to drill a hole or cut away a section of the subframe to get at it and now you just compromised the integrity of the frame.
Got a quote from a local garage for about $1000 to do the entire front end ... aaaahhhh! Looks like I'll have to raid the savings account for this one.

I wish you luck replacing the control arms, but from what I have read they ALWAYS break off. I wish I could be sure these Flag Nuts won't break off, I would do the job then, but if they did I would be royally screwed!

Good luck.

Yikes.... You mean its not all peaches and cream?

Can't say I've read every post on the topic... a few mention spinning the spotted nut (and the variations on how to solve the "challenge") but I would be curious what the guru's have to say on the topic. That is to say, "they always spin"?

If I lived back "east" I would probably have some real concerns (rust and corrosion), but out on the Pacific west coast we salt but we also have rain that keeps the salt from dissolving our wheels. I'm hoping a good prep with penetration lubricants will be a good start.

Thanks for the warning, probably going to be a month or so before I get to the project (like I said... want to do shocks and springs and clutch all in one brutal home brew event )

Martin

 

[FATCAT]

I would spray about half a can of PB Blaster all over those nuts (and in the little hole in the subframe that allows access to that Flag nut. And let it sit for a few days.
The idea of hiding a Flag nut within the frame of a car is completely asinine. And from what people have said after they have cut open the subframe to access the nut, the spot weld was pathetic.
I may try to put a ratchet to those bolts after I have soaked them for a few days to see if they can be moved without snapping off the Flag nut, but if it breaks off, i'll have to limp the car to the mechanic and let him deal with it, and charge me $1000+ for a supposedly easy "$200+ DIY job in the driveway".

 

[towforce]

Fatcat,

finally got around to doing this job. Maybe its the lack of much salt on our roads but the all the bolts were a piece of cake. I did take the time to use a small syringe to squirt in a little magic 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF on the bolt tips (syringe helps you reach the front bushing "nut" in the sub-frame).

None of the bolts resisted or caused any grief. Had a little trouble getting the brackets squeezed shut on sway bar (to start the bolts) but after a little bit of prodding and ingenuity found a large pare of needle nosed vise grips was able to pinch them close enough to get them safely started.

Comment on the installation of the control arms. I used a bit of different approach then what has been mentioned here. (and this is just a case of what ever works for yah....)

-raise the sway bar up out of the way

-I slip the front busing up into the sub frame, then insert the front bolt through the front hole of the sub frame bracket and 1/2 way into that bushing (do not insert all the way).

-next slip the ball joint (loosely assembled into the control arm) up into the steering knuckle and start the ball joint nut to hold in place (as far as you can push the the ball joint in)

-Ok, here is my twist (so to speak).... I used a light duty cable puller, anchored from the rear of the car (suspension cross member) forward to a strap wrapped around the ball joint end of the control arm (because at this point the strut wants to push the geometry of the front suspension forward and down). This same strap also captures the floor jack pad that I lined up such that the jack can roll toward the back of the car (positioned below the ball joint bolts).

CAUTION! the vehicle must be properly supported! If you are mounted on floor stands you could topple the whole works over as you will be lifting/pre-loading the front suspension.

Using the floor jack begin lifting the control arm up and at the same time, add gradually some tension to the cable puller. Eventually you will reach a height where the rear bushing will line up and will easily slide into the sub frame and can be aligned with a drift pin.

-insert the rear bushing bolt and release the cable puller.

-tighten the ball joint

-finish inserting the front bushing bolt (you may need to do a little bit of work with a pry-bar to tweak into positions.

Like I said, what ever works for yah, but this was what worked for me.....

Cheers

Martin

 

[UhOh]

^^^ Cable puller! Used one to help pull my rear axle beam when I was struggling to get one of the axle bushing bolts to go in.

 

[towforce]

Necessity is the mother of invention ;-)

At the time, the forces and directions needed to bring all three components together seem to beg for some creative thinking.... since there was nobody creative around I was left to my own devices. My only warning, you must make sure the vehicle is stable and secure! Your lifting the weight of the vehicle on one corner (compressing the unloaded spring/strut) and could upset the whole show.

I would have posted a photo but never got around to it (sorry).

I remember reading on the wheel bearing thread how someone used a
wood-splitter to press a bearing.... love that kind of creativity.....

Martin

 

[UhOh]

I picked up some LCAs so that I could outfit them with new bushings to have at the ready when I go to do some front end work. I have a couple of questions on the proper seating of the bushings. New bushings: TTs in the rear, stock in the front.

On the rears I can't seem to get the edge of the bushing flush with the lip on the LCA. It's kind of hard to tell whether they're flush. I may be 1/32" shy? How critical is it to be totally flush? I've pressed to the point where I don't feel comfortable pressing any more.

On the fronts, I've pushed in one and I can't seem to get the end to pop out neatly such that the inside edge is flush against the LCA. On the side I'm pressing from it's flattened out. The other end is a bit roundish, like it hasn't fully popped out. I pressed really hard and it was seeming like I was at the point of over-stressing the bushing: almost where the metal sleeve would start to separate from the rubber, though I don't think it actually did; just seemed like if I pressed any more that it would.

 

[skillman11]

Can you supply the links to and or part numbers for all the items discussed here?
If possible pin that information to the top of the post. I looked through many pages for part numbers and gave up.

2006 Golf TDI
Scott

 

[neoborn]

I would love some points of view from people that have performed the LCA bushings.

I have the following to do 1) New Struts / Springs 2) LCA Bushings 3) Tie Rod Arms (complete both sides)

I don't have the time to take the whole car off the road and so am forced to do it piece by piece or side by side and time stretched over weeks depending on the scale / time of work. This is my daily runner so need to get it up and ready to go daily.

I have done the following together on different days 1) Both Front Bearings and Ball Joints 2) Both rear bearings and hubs 3) both rear shocks.

I now need to get into the meat of things and really need it to go smoothly, I need to do as much as possible in a short time span i.e. I come home from work at like 10:00AM in the morning and have to complete whatever mechanical work I am doing then sleep and be at work again for 10:00PM.

I could do Drivers Side Strut and stop there and then next day do passenger side strut next day, or I could do drivers side strut, then LCA and Tie Rod Arm on the following day with the passenger side in the same order the next week. I was thinking of cutting open sub frame getting spinning nuts welded before even starting this then perhaps I would be able to get Strut / LCA and Tie Rod Arm complete in one day one week and then the other side the next. I may also need to do my drivers side axle on another date as well but luckily I have spare axle nuts ($10 a pop :S) the way it worked out.

I would love some input on what would be the best and most cost efficient use of time / money to get this completed. Front tires are pretty bald and so I need to get this all done and then take in for an alignment etc

feedback is much welcome.

 

[neoborn]

What is the best area to press regular (not the two part front LCA bushing type but OEM style) front bushings to get them to sit correctly and not destroy them?

Is the best way to press close to the metal inner core, half way between or to have a socket match the outer diameter of the bushing?

Do you have to support the middle metal core while pushing? I did one last night but it was severly compressed before it went all the way through.

 

[VChristian]

Just did this job for the second time in 6 months. The first was on my 99.5 when it failed inspection. The bushings were pretty good on that. Then the 02 started the bouncing on the brake application symptoms that other have written about.

I decided to change both LCAs with stock bushings. Bought a pair of the TT ones just in case I get ambitious. Found the LCAs with new ball joints for under $90.

In each case I had a problem with the captive nut on the right side, and used a hole saw. I have not welded a patch over the subframe. May not do it.

Disassembly was pretty easy and reassembly the same. Used a pry bar and 3# hammer to tap things into place.

For the ball joint, I used the technique of having the nut push against the CV joint, and in every case things popped free easily. I used a pair of vice grips which I ground the jaws narrow on to hold the ball joint to work the nut off after the joint popped from the spindle. This was a virgin ball joint pull on each car (340 and 270 thousand miles) and it was really nice to have a nice loose (probably 25 ft lb) break on the nut for the ball joints.

A bottle jack on the ball joint helps hold the shaft when reinstalling. I also use the bottle jack to get the car up off the jack stands for tightening the bushing bolts.

The first car alignment did not change, as checked with a track gauge. The second car is waiting on a spring so that I can replace the struts, and I will then check the alignment.

For what it's worth, if the LCA bushings are shot, I figure the ball joints can be replaced, and the incremental cost is about $8 for each ball joint when bought with the LCAs.

 

[BakoTDI]

Tool rental works? Great!

I used this kit from Autozone (free rental). This kit makes pressing both LCA bushings a piece of cake. No need to freeze, or cut the bushing.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...N-264q?itemIdentifier=516524&_requestid=53046

I was gonna ask if the tool rental was an option as I've seen a lot of people/videos go the cutting route. But this answers my question! Thanks Jetta2001TDI!

 

[Curious Chris]

I replaced mine and it is on my car that is going up on blocks now.