HOW TO and do-it-yourself threads

paramedick

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor
Joined
Jul 29, 2001
Location
Versailles, Kentucky
TDI
2015 Audi Q5 TDI, 2000 New Beetle
Deciphering VW security lug bolts

Lost your lug nut security key? Wanna know how to remove it? Pick one up at your dealer for $20 or less.

Two types of grooves available in the lugs. Star grooves and Square grooves.

Use the part number listed and add the code to the end of it.

Star Groove

8D0 601 139F

Code Grooves
000 10
001 11
002 13
003 14
004 15
005 16
006 17
007 19
008 20
009 21

Square Groove
8D0 601 139E

Code Groove
051 6
052 7
053 8
054 9
055 10
056 11
057 12
058 13
059 14
060 15
061 16
062 17
 
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colroc

Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2006
Location
socal
TDI
2004 golf pd
PD upper boost pipe Repair

On my 2004.5 Golf, the rubber boost pipe attaching the intake manifold to the plastic bit coming from the intercooler is held in by a metal clip that locks the pipe in with a set of tabs on the flange.
Over time this Spring steel clip can wear the aluminum tabs off, which will allow the pipe to pop out.
Yesterday My pipe blew off because both of the tabs on my pipe looked like this



Vw wanted $125 for a replacement, which I though to be unreasonable, especially since it seems that this part was designed to fail... (steel clip holding back aluminum tabs in a high vibration environment)
So I came up with the idea of using some self tapping screws to replace the tabs.
I used some short screws with a 1/4" head, which then had to be filed down to fit, since they are just a little bit bigger than the original tabs.

It took a lot of patience and a bit of trial and error to get the fit just right.
You'll know you've got it right when you hear the metal clip snap into place and you won't be able to pull the pipe out without taking the clip off first.


I probably don't need to mention this, but make sure to clean all the little bits of metal out that are made by the screws drilling theough the flange.
 
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whitedog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
colroc said:
On my 2004.5 Golf, the rubber boost pipe attaching the intake manifold to the plastic bit coming from the intercooler is held in by a metal clip that locks the pipe in with a set of tabs on the flange.
Over time this Spring steel clip can wear the aluminum tabs off, which will allow the pipe to pop out.
Yesterday My pipe blew off because both of the tabs on my pipe looked like this



Vw wanted $125 for a replacement, which I though to be unreasonable, especially since it seems that this part was designed to fail... (steel clip holding back aluminum tabs in a high vibration environment)
So I came up with the idea of using some self tapping screws to replace the tabs.
I used some short screws with a 1/4" head, which then had to be filed down to fit, since they are just a little bit bigger than the original tabs.

It took a lot of patience and a bit of trial and error to get the fit just right.
You'll know you've got it right when you hear the metal clip snap into place and you won't be able to pull the pipe out without taking the clip off first.
There are other, more permanent options. See signature for more information about doggie collars.
 
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lglamb

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Manual Tran Shift Cable Carrier

A few of us have had the plastic "Carrier" (at the tranny end of the upper shift cable) break.
Here's part photo and parts blowup.
Also shown is small pipe wrench that makes it easy to lift that locking tab, just fit it on the protrusion and lever it up.

Not a write-up, but pretty straightforward to figure out. Need to unbolt the lower cable to
slide the Carrier (#50) out and back in the metal bracket (#49). The bracket is loose without the Carrier, make sure you align the slider part (of bracket) with slidee part (#45).



 

Wallace

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2006
Location
Scotland
TDI
Audi A3 quattro.
Mk4 Rear Axle Bushes.

Here is another rear axle bush How-to, done by me and my mate Rubberdubber on www.scottishvag.net/phpbb3 here in Scotland, maybe one of your mods could add it to the other one in the relevant section. It is an 'on car' procedure for replacing original bushes with Powerflex polyurethene bushes, weather here is a lot damper/colder and cars not in quite so good nick underneath (it is an everyday driver car though) as you will see from the pics; http://www.scottishvag.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=24344
We have just started up the How-to section in the last month or so and already there are some interesting things on there, so have a look.
Hope you find it useful, Thanks,
Wallace
 
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tothemax

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2006
Location
West Coast
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 Golf, 2016 Q5
Simple Puller to help remove ECU

Good Write up here on pulling out the ECU http://www.goapr.com/VW/support/ecu_tt_golf_gti_jetta.pdf

I used a couple variations (from other members) that helped me:



stick one can in:



Then another:



Now I can access the connectors and the front of the ECU. Once I disconnect both connectors, I use my coat hanger. 1x2 puller to easily pull our the ECU.



I hook each one of the loops in each of the pins on the ECU and it pulls out easier. Straight pull. Tired of scraping my knuckles. Have fun!

 

shagin'wagen

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2007
Location
Sherwood Park, AB
TDI
Bora
'How To' - Oil cooler seal replacement

I recently had the lower oil seals on my oil cooler start leaking due to cold. This is my writeup on how to replace them.

Tools & Materials:
-Whatever tools to remove skid plate or splash pan. (you have to determine what you need)
-32MM shallow socket, 6" extension, Socket wrench.
-Can of spray BrakeClean.
-Oil drip/drain pan.
-Fresh engine oil.
-Shop rags or paper towels.
-New seals. #2 & 4

Reference:



Procedure:
1) Remove skid plate or splash pan if your car is fitted with one.

2) Position drain pan under oil cooler and thoroughly clean the area with BrakeClean. The pan catches the drips.

3) With drain pan still under car, remove oil cooler retainer plate (#1) using 32MM socket. Oil will leak out at this point, but not much, hence the pan.


4) Once the retainer plate is removed, remove seal from retainer plate. (#2) It should still be in a groove in the retainer plate. Gently pull down the oil cooler and remove the other seal from the oil cooler. (#4) It should come out easily.

5) Spray down the cooler again with BrakeClean.


6) Take your new seal #4, and install it on the oil cooler. There should be 2 tabs on the seal with a hole in each. There are also several pins on the oil cooler, match 2 of the pins (doesn't matter which 2) with the holes on the seal, and gently push the seal onto those pins.

7) Spray down the retainer plate with BrakeClean and take your new seal #2 and install it into the groove in the retainer plate.


8) Now carefully insert the retainer plate back through the oil cooler and screwing the retainer plate back into the filter housing, making sure the seals don't dislodge and not to cross thread the retainer plate. Tighten down the retainer plate again with the socket to a reasonable torque. Not eye bulging, nor hand tight. (I have not found the correct torque value, but if you know it, PM me and I will add it here)

9) Start car, and check for leaks, allow to run for 1 minute. Shut off car for a minute or 2. Then add the correct amount of engine oil to bring it up to the appropriate level on dipstick. Starting the car purges the air that was introduced into the system, and letting the car sit for a minute allows most of the oil to drain back to the crankcase. Thus giving accurate quantities of oil.

10) Reinstall the skid plate or splash pan if you have one.

11) Put away tools, dispose of waste oil properly and clean up. Enjoy beverage of choice. I had hot chocolate, it was -25 and snowing when I did mine.:cool:
 
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DanG144

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
TDI
2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
A4 or MarkIV brake or clutch switch installation instructions

This is a pretty old set of instructions. The still can be helpful, depending upon which switch you get. There are several newer versions of the clutch and brake switch.

It is worth reading, because if you have a switch that needs length setting, and has turning components on it, you will break it if you do not know what you are doing.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=50996&cat=500&ppuser=65753
 

shmcquilkin

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2002
Location
Maine
TDI
2016 E63S estate, 1995.5 S6 avant, 1987 Vanagon Syncro GL, 1971 Westfalia
Mk4 new key fob matching/reprogramming info

Too much of a PIA and expense to go through a dealer, so here's pretty much all that is required to re-key your Mk4:

http://mark1vws.com/_wsn/page3.html
Mark's a GREAT guy, knows almost everything about re-keying your Mk4 VW. Tons of info here, towards the bottom. Hey supplies OEM fobs (even with the panic button), recuts them for you, and provides you with the info to reprogram and recode them.

http://www.sidewinderkeys.com/index.htm
Canadian source, also nice folks

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/immobilizer.html

http://www.knology.net/~TDIGuy/VW%20Key%20FOB%20Instructions.htm

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/a4/vw_key_faq.htm

http://www.vwdiesel.com/Program_Keys.html

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1216091
 
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FreewayFritz

New member
Joined
Jan 27, 2009
Location
Burlington, Ontario, Canada
TDI
2003 Jetta

rocketeer928

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2008
Location
Northeastern Illinois
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS TDI 5-speed
A Better ALH Turbo / Exhaust Manifold Removal Guide

I was trying to find a decent "how-to" for removal of my stock turbo on my ALH to replace it and its exhaust manifold with a 17/22 hybrid turbo in the future. Though a good write-up for its purpose, I wasn't really satisfied with Speedster's removal "how-to" because it was more about removing the turbo without the exhaust manifold for cleaning purposes.

I did an internet search and stumbled surprisingly across this link:
http://www.tdiinnovations.com/k45/Turbo%20Removal%20Guide%202.2.08.pdf

If for some reason the link does not work then search "ALH Turbo Removal" in Google.

I have no idea who wrote it, though it looks like it came from a company called TDI Innovations in TX. It seems like something that should be in the Engine section of Wingnut's "How-to" sticky posting.

This single document covers the following:
1. Turbo Intake Tube Removal
2. EGR Removal
3. EGR Cooler Removal
4. Intake Manifold Remove
5. Turbo Oil Line Removal
6. Turbo and Exhaust Manifold Removal
 
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