UhOh
Top Post Dawg
I replaced a "timing belt" at less that 10k miles (maybe not even 3k miles?).
It was on a newly purchased wagon for the daughter. I didn't trust the PO. Turns out that the belt itself was new as was the water pump. The PO didn't really give the story (he was someone that no rookie should ever buy a car from; I figured that, along with all the great minds here, can pretty much deal with anything on these cars). Anyway, I suspect the water pump was crapping out (no real signs of any other trouble- compression is great; injector balance is good) and the guy slapped in a new water pump and belt. Not sure if the tensioner was new, but the idler rollers were clearly NOT: significantly rusted, due to water pump leaking. When I changed the TB on my car (don't know how many miles it had since previous change- guessing maybe 80k miles, so can't really vote on IT), the top roller was very dry and would likely have been the part that would have failed first.
One other thing to note here, and that there's other stuff happening there at that end of the engine that will affect the TB and should be looked at when doing the TB. On the daughter's wagon the cam seal was leaking, not real bad, but it clearly needed replacing (which I did): another reason why deciding to re-do everything was a good idea. There's also the crank seal to be concerned with. Enough oil loss with either and it's going to affect the life of your belt: will be one of the lower probability things that will result in the belt itself being the TB component that goes out first.
Does anyone know what VAG's instructions are for replacing water pumps at TB changes? Seems that it's not consistent (dealers may or may not replace- wife's car's TB [PO] was done by a VAG dealer and they didn't replace the WP).
It was on a newly purchased wagon for the daughter. I didn't trust the PO. Turns out that the belt itself was new as was the water pump. The PO didn't really give the story (he was someone that no rookie should ever buy a car from; I figured that, along with all the great minds here, can pretty much deal with anything on these cars). Anyway, I suspect the water pump was crapping out (no real signs of any other trouble- compression is great; injector balance is good) and the guy slapped in a new water pump and belt. Not sure if the tensioner was new, but the idler rollers were clearly NOT: significantly rusted, due to water pump leaking. When I changed the TB on my car (don't know how many miles it had since previous change- guessing maybe 80k miles, so can't really vote on IT), the top roller was very dry and would likely have been the part that would have failed first.
One other thing to note here, and that there's other stuff happening there at that end of the engine that will affect the TB and should be looked at when doing the TB. On the daughter's wagon the cam seal was leaking, not real bad, but it clearly needed replacing (which I did): another reason why deciding to re-do everything was a good idea. There's also the crank seal to be concerned with. Enough oil loss with either and it's going to affect the life of your belt: will be one of the lower probability things that will result in the belt itself being the TB component that goes out first.
Does anyone know what VAG's instructions are for replacing water pumps at TB changes? Seems that it's not consistent (dealers may or may not replace- wife's car's TB [PO] was done by a VAG dealer and they didn't replace the WP).