69mg/st @3000rpm? Wow that's a lot higher than I expected, that's almost double the stock ammount. Anyway thank you guys!With 10mm Pump, 4500rpm=4,9Volt=53mg/str
If you want drive 4,9Volt at 3000rpm, you can inject 69mg/str with 10mm Pump, but than you reach at 4500rpm 4,99 Volt
With 11mm Pump, 4500rpm=4,9Volt=60mg/str
If you want drive 4,9Volt at 3000rpm, you can inject 80mg/str with 11mm Pump, but than you reach at 4500rpm 5,54 Volt
Yeah, I figured as much. I've raised the boost by around 0.2bar, so it burned 50mg/str cleanly, no smoke. Now I have to figure out how much I can raise the fuel without raising the boost any more... The smoke limiter on the new map i'm working on keeps the AFR at 15:1, so i guess I'll see how it goes...This is about the injection quantity.
The series turbocharger from the ALH cannot process this amount.
That is true, but I luckily have a PD115 engine laying around that I wish to swap in, so I don't want to dump too much money into the ALH engine...Bottom line were getting at... dont bother tuning or trying to get more power from stock hardware on these engines and most of the early TDIs up till the 2010+ ish.
Swap nozzles and turbo.
It's not so much the amount of fuel as it is the spray pattern and atomization of said spray pattern.
All things being exact equal with the exception of upgraded nozzles along with decreasing QA to keep EGTs down on a no tune engine..... you will see more mpg and more power depending on how you drive.
Worn old nozzles vs much better spray and not necessarily more of it.
It's a complicated tune map that the ECU has. This is why some members cant wrap their heads around why electric IPs and ECUs are better than a mechanical or M-pump
What??Bottom line were getting at... dont bother tuning or trying to get more power from stock hardware on these engines and most of the early TDIs up till the 2010+ ish.
I did not say you can't, but that it's better to go with a better spraying nozzle. They are cheap.What??
I've been around for before and after dynos from years ago where ALH TDIs went from 90ish WHP to 125 WHP with a tune only, all stock hardware. Tuning is about a lot more than fuel, but fuel can be increased via tuning as well.
100% with you in that. I was just referring to just manually increasing the injection.Apples and elephants. Tunes do much more than adjust fueling. I'm sure you're aware of that .
On an AFN engine you can use the rods of the AJM/ATJ engine. They have the old smaller bottom end matching the AFN. Instead of the AJM/ATJ pistons with only 9 mm piston top land I would prefer to combine the rods with the pistons of the AVF/ARL with 12 mm piston top land. These pistons have the coolest piston ring area compared to all other piston in the 2V engines. It's not fun to get the oil spray nozzles adjusted to point the spray directly into the coolant hole at the bottom of the PD pistons. But it's really worth it. Another good combination could be an AVF engine lower end with an ALH/ASV cylinder head with all the stuff needed for the VP37 injection pump. Just use the ARL cylinder head screws because they are made of higher strength steel (12.9 instead of 10.9).Knowing pd engines they have a much shorter power band than ve engines, if anything the rods and pistons from the AJM are a good upgrade to the VE engine…pd is easier to upgrade on stock hardware- nozzles don’t require upgrade unless going over 260bhp. The ve is harder to keep in check with larger nozzles and 11mm pump but it has a much broader power band and top end is bulletproof compared to pd engines. AJM is mild upgrade to your ve engine, either go pd130/150 or stay VE !