JETaah
Vendor , w/Business number
Here is how I deal with the ALH's loose vacuum pump nipple problem. I have tried the peen-over method
and it works for a while but if it failed the first time then it probably will again. This will eliminate the o-ring's function that seals the joint. It seems like a weird failure prone, short term design to begin with and they keep doing it year after year.
I use JB Weld for this. It does take forever to set up....something like 10-12 hours to get firmed up.
This is a long time and maybe there is a shorter "kick-time" epoxy....I'm sure that there is but, this is my choice in this case. It is strong and the long set-up time lets it flow into crevices and level out. I wait overnight before putting the pump back into service.
Prepping the pump.
Clean the surfaces thoroughly with brake cleaner.
Create some tooth for the epoxy to "key" in onto the surface. I use a die grinder or Dremel to create small undercut notches on the 45* surface. The notches should be deep enough to hook the epoxy and prevent it from lifting up off the pump body. Finish off with a little rough Emery cloth on the bonding surfaces.
create a dam for the epoxy to settle in. I used 3/4" electrical tape here but, 1/2" is plenty and makes it easier to apply the JB Weld down into the trough.
Support the pump in a vice or other means so the the nipple is perpendicular to level. You will be relying on gravity to level the epoxy mix as it sets up.
Next, mix up some JB Weld. I have tried different ways to apply it and this one worked OK. Squirt both parts into a small plastic zip lock bag. A heavier weight bag is a good choice so that it does not break in the process. Seal the bag and squish it around until you get a uniform color. Nip the corner of the bag...just a small hole so that you can squeeze the mix out like a pastry bag dispensing icing.
Apply the mix first to the outer edge and drag a small tool like the end of a paper clip or a pick around the perimeter of the tape dam to work the epoxy down along the 45* edge.
Apply the rest to bring up the level about 3/32-1/8" above the surface of the nipple's flat.
After you have noticed that the epoxy has set up in the dispensing bag it is time to remove the tape. Trim off the edge with a razor while the epoxy is still semi-plastic.
Voila!
and it works for a while but if it failed the first time then it probably will again. This will eliminate the o-ring's function that seals the joint. It seems like a weird failure prone, short term design to begin with and they keep doing it year after year.
I use JB Weld for this. It does take forever to set up....something like 10-12 hours to get firmed up.
This is a long time and maybe there is a shorter "kick-time" epoxy....I'm sure that there is but, this is my choice in this case. It is strong and the long set-up time lets it flow into crevices and level out. I wait overnight before putting the pump back into service.
Prepping the pump.
Clean the surfaces thoroughly with brake cleaner.
Create some tooth for the epoxy to "key" in onto the surface. I use a die grinder or Dremel to create small undercut notches on the 45* surface. The notches should be deep enough to hook the epoxy and prevent it from lifting up off the pump body. Finish off with a little rough Emery cloth on the bonding surfaces.
create a dam for the epoxy to settle in. I used 3/4" electrical tape here but, 1/2" is plenty and makes it easier to apply the JB Weld down into the trough.
Support the pump in a vice or other means so the the nipple is perpendicular to level. You will be relying on gravity to level the epoxy mix as it sets up.
Next, mix up some JB Weld. I have tried different ways to apply it and this one worked OK. Squirt both parts into a small plastic zip lock bag. A heavier weight bag is a good choice so that it does not break in the process. Seal the bag and squish it around until you get a uniform color. Nip the corner of the bag...just a small hole so that you can squeeze the mix out like a pastry bag dispensing icing.
Apply the mix first to the outer edge and drag a small tool like the end of a paper clip or a pick around the perimeter of the tape dam to work the epoxy down along the 45* edge.
Apply the rest to bring up the level about 3/32-1/8" above the surface of the nipple's flat.
After you have noticed that the epoxy has set up in the dispensing bag it is time to remove the tape. Trim off the edge with a razor while the epoxy is still semi-plastic.
Voila!
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