HID power

truman

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I just installed a lovely set of bixenon hids on my '03JW. They were obtained here http://www.otimports.com/New-Items.html They were slightly different than those displayed on the website in that mine don't have ballast wires coming out the back. Mine have integrated ballasts. Since I had previously wired the fogs for ecodes, these units were plug and play.
I am having one small problem. The passenger headlight blows the 10A fuse on high beam. I put in a 15A fuse on that one circuit(#18 or 19) and it works fine. My question is can I run it this way or should I run power from the battery to a relay?
 

IXLR8

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Most HID's draw less power(35w) than std lights (55w), except on startup. Putting a 15A fuse in wiring that is rated for 10A is asking for trouble. There is a reason that 10A fuse is blowing and you should figure out why. Especially if it is only one side. Most of these cars could use a relay and direct wiring to improve lighting... but in your case I think it would just be masking a problem that needs to be fixed.
 

TDICADDGUY

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Definitely don't run the 15A fuse in a circuit designed for a 10A. It is likely just due to the startup from the HID's so it is short-lived...but do not keep running it that way.

Use a relay circuit to take the load off the stock wiring.
 

truman

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Thanks for the responses. Do I need 4 relays- each side, high and low beam? On second thought, I guess 2 relays would be appropriate- 1 for high and 1 for low?
 

TDICADDGUY

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truman said:
On second thought, I guess 2 relays would be appropriate- 1 for high and 1 for low?
Are they true bixenon with a movable shield? If so you only have one set of ballasts so you would only need one relay. I havent wired bixenons before, and it depends on how these lights are wired, but you probably need just one of your existing low beam wires to trigger the relay, which can then send power to each ballast. Your existing high beam wires probably just signal the solenoids to move the shield and won't need to be messed with.

You may want to send user "keggo" a PM and get his input. He has retrofitted his Jetta with bixenons and can probably be much more help to you.
 

VeeDubTDI

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Yeah, are these bi-xenons with one lamp per housing (movable reflector for hi/low) or two lamps per housing?
 

truman

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Yes these are true bixenons w/ 1 lamp and a moveable shield. They are pictured here: http://www.otimports.com/New-Items.html I was told that they were made by Hella. It appears that what looks to be a Hella emblem is ground off the housing. The ballasts are about the size of a hockey puck attached to the turn signal fog light cover.
TDICAD, that's an interesting point about using one relay. The problem I am having is with blowing the high beam 10A fuse on the passenger side.
The lights were brand new, but didn't come with any wiring instructions or diagrams. They have a 10 pin connector.
 
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VeeDubTDI

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If they only have one lamp per housing, then you have a short somewhere in one of the high beam circuits. Moving a shield shouldn't pop a 10 amp fuse.
 

robhegedus

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VeeDubTDI said:
If they only have one lamp per housing, then you have a short somewhere in one of the high beam circuits. Moving a shield shouldn't pop a 10 amp fuse.
I agree. Moving the shield hardly takes any power so they could be wired incorrectly from the factory or there's a short somewhere.
 

truman

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Thanks for the responses, I have a little better idea about finishing the project. Looks like the place to start is back to square 1, check wires, clip and repower the low beam and recheck. It makes sense that there must be an internal short. The part about that that puzzles me is why would a 10A blow, but not a 15?
 

truman

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Well I got the harness installed w/ relays to high and low beam circuits. I did confirm that these are Hella units. FWIW I bought these on ebay for 500 delivered. Thanks for the advice.
 

VeeDubTDI

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The low beams are not quite what they should be, but for the price, not bad at all.
 

truman

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Thanks, I thought it was a very fair deal on Hellas.
A few years ago, I did an hid conversion on the wife's Mazda 6 wagon's projectors. I'm still very happy with those, but these are definitely in a different league- very nicely made. Most of what I have seen available in this price range are Depo/FK, usually conversiions and all have the standard halogen high beam. Last night on the way home, I was side by side w/ a BMW 7 series and I really couldn't tell that his were any better. Maybe there are better choices available, but I don't think I'm going to have any regrets and I don't think I will buy another car without hids. I've had a few eye surgeries, so illumination is a huge safety/fatigue factor for me.
 
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bakdoor

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So, going along with this thread...

Yesterday, my driver's side low beam crapped out. So I figure now is the perfect time to pony up and install an aftermarket HID "plug 'n play" kit. What's the general opinion on brands, price, etc? I don't want to go cheap and be replacing it in a year, but I also don't want to have to take out a second mortgage for the project, you know? I've heard that McCulloch is a good name, other thoughts? TIA for the info.

Any ideas and experience is appreciated.
 

keggo

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bakdoor said:
So, going along with this thread...

Yesterday, my driver's side low beam crapped out. So I figure now is the perfect time to pony up and install an aftermarket HID "plug 'n play" kit. What's the general opinion on brands, price, etc? I don't want to go cheap and be replacing it in a year, but I also don't want to have to take out a second mortgage for the project, you know? I've heard that McCulloch is a good name, other thoughts? TIA for the info.

Any ideas and experience is appreciated.
"Plug n play" is NOT recommended. Your headlights were NOT designed for the additional output and output pattern of HID bulbs. All you need to do is search for more info. Retrofits are probably the most cost effective and will yield some of the best results. If you don't want to spend money to do it right, then you just need to stick with halogen bulbs. Please DON'T buy pnp kits!
 

bakdoor

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keggo said:
"Plug n play" is NOT recommended. Your headlights were NOT designed for the additional output and output pattern of HID bulbs. All you need to do is search for more info. Retrofits are probably the most cost effective and will yield some of the best results. If you don't want to spend money to do it right, then you just need to stick with halogen bulbs. Please DON'T buy pnp kits!
Ok, thanks..this is the kind of input I usually look for before buying anything.

So, what about something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006...08809667QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ht_5446wt_939

It's a complete replacement projector housing, not just a p-n-p kit that goes into the stock reflector housing. Is this a better route? Is the stock wiring up to the task? The HIDs supposedly use less power, so the wiring should be adequate, right? Any other issues? I'm thinking that DRLs will have to be disabled to install any HIDs, as operating the HIDs in the low beam housing in DRL (ie, 80% power) mode will not be healthy for the ballasts, I'd think.

Any more ideas/suggestions? TIA!
 

keggo

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You're right on some points. Though, I'd personally replace the projectors that come in those with known brand HID projectors such as Stanley, Bosch, or Valeo. You can find real HID projectors on eBay (better not to) and also on hidplanet.com. You'll have to register to post there, but that's where I buy all my stuff. Most of the guys that have been there for a while are a pretty close knit group, so they can be trusted IMO. I also wouldn't trust the stock wiring. Your best bet is to build a relay harness feeding the ballasts with power directly from the battery and only using the stock wiring for relay triggering. The reason for this is... while HID's generally only consume 35W for regular use, the ignition (start up) phase can produce huge surges, thus leading to degraded wiring in the stalk and/or other parts of the lighting system tied to the use. Yes, disable the DRL's for proper HID usage... OR you could somehow manage to keep DRL's and just relocate them... say to a strip or array of LEDs? HIDplanet.com will help you a lot more than TDIclub in the realm of lighting.

bakdoor said:
Ok, thanks..this is the kind of input I usually look for before buying anything.

So, what about something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-2008-VW-GTi-5-BLK-ANGEL-HALO-HEADLIGHTS-XENON-HID_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQihZ006QQitemZ160308809667QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ht_5446wt_939

It's a complete replacement projector housing, not just a p-n-p kit that goes into the stock reflector housing. Is this a better route? Is the stock wiring up to the task? The HIDs supposedly use less power, so the wiring should be adequate, right? Any other issues? I'm thinking that DRLs will have to be disabled to install any HIDs, as operating the HIDs in the low beam housing in DRL (ie, 80% power) mode will not be healthy for the ballasts, I'd think.

Any more ideas/suggestions? TIA!
 

keggo

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Another thing to note Bakdoor... is you may consider Hella Dynabeams (I think they're Hella). Search on here... they're made for your car... but require other wiring I believe.
 

robhegedus

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truman said:
Those look a lot like Hella E55 projectors in there. The same projectors I'm going to be retrofitting into my Golf housings.

One thing to note though is that your driver side projector is crooked. You can see that it is rotated clockwise (from driver seat). It should be horizontal and you might be slightly blinding oncoming traffic.

Nice headlights though.
 

truman

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robhegedus said:
Those look a lot like Hella E55 projectors in there. The same projectors I'm going to be retrofitting into my Golf housings.

One thing to note though is that your driver side projector is crooked. You can see that it is rotated clockwise (from driver seat). It should be horizontal and you might be slightly blinding oncoming traffic.

Nice headlights though.
Yeh, when the weather warms up a little bit, I plan to do some more work with the alignment. Thanks for the input.
 

VeeDubTDI

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Yeah, good note about needing to rotate the housings a couple of degrees counter-clockwise.
 

truman

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VeeDubTDI said:
Yeah, good note about needing to rotate the housings a couple of degrees counter-clockwise.
Is that adjustment done internally by loosening the projector mounting ring and rotating slightly? My understanding is that the external adjusters are up/down and left/right?
 
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