Vendor , w/Business number
- May 7, 2015
- Campbellsville, Kentucky
- 1997 B4 Sedan
I'm considering it. We don't have a lot of the specialized equipment and machine tools necessary for engine work, but just valves and guides shouldn't be too difficult. I just figured it would be super easy to hand it over to an experienced one-stop shop and get it back knowing all is well.Sucks it wasn’t something easy. Aren’t you a machinist…. why not do it yourself? Pushing in new guides and reaming them should be within your capability.
Geez, seems like a bug going around the 1Z world...i still never got around to figuring out the ticking in my mk3 as well. still just sitting in the driveway. not enough time, putzing with my rabbit and tuning too much :/
I’d replace the exhaust valves, just because of the mileage and they’re getting beaten with heat. The intake valves could possibly be cleaned and reused, but at 300k, I’d just replace them. I’ve cleaned and reused many valves and just lapped them. Everything runs…Just out of curiosity, what are the typical components that get replaced during a head reman such as this?
I don't think the exhaust valve is burned, it's just the guide that's extremely loose. And from the number of posts I've read, around 200k seems about all you can expect from the OEM valve guides before they start getting out of spec. (assuming you're not using Frank's upgraded valve guides, which unfortunately I am not.) Thankfully all my lifter bores feel nice and snug, so that's one thing I can have peace of mind about for now. I've been debating on whether I should just drop the pan and do a full re-ring and bore hone, but I think I'll let it slide this time. Maybe if and when I get closer to 400 or 500k miles it'll be time to pull the engine completely and replace all the main bearings too.Looks like burned exhaust valve then? I pulled a pretty long hill yesterday, and I've got what sounds like a loose lifter or valve, a very similar "clack" sound with every rotation of the cam. It's not nearly as loud as yours. At least that's what I'm hoping. I'll post a separate thread for my car...
The exhaust valve guides were all replaced with the head rebuild, however, I have a feeling the head was getting inadequate oil flow due to worn lifter bores that were not remedied with the rebuild... And who knows what kind of guides the shop used for the rebuild.
They're all pretty darn loose in mine. It's that cylinder 2 exhaust guide that really went wonky, but they all have lateral play to some degree.When I had cylinder head cleaned and reworked at 242k miles the shop said exhaust guides needed replaced, so I would assume the same in your case. They said intake guides were fine. I use that mileage now (aprox 250k) as a guide for head work.
The donor engine (to the B3V) had good cross-hatching on cylinder walls visible, was very happy about that.
Local machine shop here checked and cut head, did valve job and replaced guides (exh) and all stem seals it was around $200 back in 2015...today probably would be a third more I'd guess....
I think it's worth keeping a couple sets (of 4) exhaust valve guides on hand just in case.
I’m surprised they’re that expensive. I’m sure the test spec is in the Bentley. I’d probably get them tested, if you can’t find them cheaper.I've been shopping for springs a bit but everywhere I look they seem to be $30-$40 each.
Block redesign for ALH remedy this you think?My 1Z's tick was due to worn lifter bores, not allowing the lifters to stay pumped up. A new head or bored/sleeved bores is the only fix. I've since seen this a few times. Never on an ALH, oddly enough, always a 1Z/AHU.
I’m curious how they improved it. From what I’m used to, oil went up the 3rd head bolt, from right, on the filter mount side of the engine. Was this changed?Improved oil flow to the cylinder head was one of the new product technical information on the new engines for 1998