You are referring to the 240mm DMF though, right? That requires the bellhousing spacer and special starter?The LUK DMF setup is awesome even with the stage 2 . I advise anyone going that route make sure you have the actuator rod the right length. No adjustment other than varying the length and reinstalling it. I had to play with mine a couple of iterations in length. I just used 1/4" welding rod and rounded the end.
The input shaft engagement has been a nothing-burger for me. I installed the stock input shaft bearing but left it a bit proud of it's normal place in the crank. Giving about 5.0mm of engagement on the input shaft by my measurements. Not ideal, but when I had the transmission out at 300,000km past install to replace the DMF, the input shaft was flawless.Seems to be no question that setup is the most desirable but a lot of special parts, need to order replacement starter from Europe if it ever fails, and 5.5mm less engagement between the input shaft and the crank pilot which is already marginal. So tradeoffs either way no?
Obviously yours has been a success though. What did you do to keep the input shaft bearing happy with enough support in the pilot while incorporating the BH spacer?
Good to know. I have seen some that do not use a pilot bearing or bushing as well but I have always understood that the ones designed to work that way have a heavily beefed up front bearing for the input shaft. I figure the ones designed to use a pilot bearing probably need at least some kind of support. But it sounds like your method worked, and probably represents the ideal setup.The input shaft engagement has been a nothing-burger for me. I installed the stock input shaft bearing but left it a bit proud of it's normal place in the crank. Giving about 5.0mm of engagement on the input shaft by my measurements. Not ideal, but when I had the transmission out at 300,000km past install to replace the DMF, the input shaft was flawless.
I put this down to the long input shafts with very robust bearings inside the transmission - the shaft is already well supported. I have installed a number of clutches in my time and there are a few with no input shaft (external in the crank) whatsoever.
For the EU only starter, I did order a second one just in case. It has sat on the shelf for the last 7 or so years since install doing absolutely nothing, but it's there just in case.
How many miles on it?I have the Sachs 228mm performance clutch/DMF from Frans and a Stage II. So far the clutch has been perfect. It holds great and is mild mannered. Break-in was a non-event. The pedal seems a little heavy, but the only other VAG I can compare with is a friend's Golf R. It a bit heavier than that, but not as heavy as the fully mechanical one in my Dad's '78 F150 when I was a kid. I think you will like that clutch.
Appreciate the optimism and hope, as someone like me who is a huge VW fan and appreciate these cars for what they are I know that my clutch will do just fine with a stage 1. Considering how pristine the car is I wanna keep it that way so I’m not gunna be beating on this car. The car has been well taken care of by it’s previous owners and I plan to do the same. I just practically replaced everything on the engine besides the cams as I inspected them and they look perfectly fine. Let alone the previous owner just did the control arms and shocks about 20-30k miles ago and rotors, pads and tires all around about 5k miles ago.Don't know offhand. I'd say around 5k. I don't drive it much anymore. My 17 yo son does. It sees only stop and go city driving in northern VA (not particularly kind on clutches). The first several hundred after break-in were teaching him how to drive a manual. I think Yetii already purchased the same clutch. I was only trying to offer some positive input. We'll see how it pans out. I know it holds at least as much as the tires will in 1, 2, and 3.