Help! Please!

[Bobby_Johnson]

I am just going to give all the details that i can and pray that someone can help solve my puzzle.

I bought a 2000 jetta tdi, 5spd 226k miles on it.

Problem #1... When on the interstate, i cant run 71,72,73,74 MPH without the car jolting/missing. If running 70 or below, or 75 or above this doesn't happen. Sometime i noticed, the car seems to do this right about 2400 rpm.

Problem #2... Also, if driving (any speed above 2100-2400 rpm) and decelerate. When i attempt to accelerate again the car while somewhat stall. Puff a large cloud of white smoke. Sometimes I have a pop from the exhaust when it happens. If i know im going to need to decelerate, i have to press the clutch and have the rpm fall to idle and feather back into the accelerator.

Problem #3...Also, I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Yet i still get the following codes: P3130 and P1256

Problem #4...Car will not start with coolant temp sensor hooked up.

Problem #5... Fuel leak from tank. Fuel on top of tank under back seat. I've checked the lines and they are connected well.

Here's what's been done to the car so far:
EGR delete and cooler delete.
Coolant temp sensor
Thermostat
Fuel filter
All new vacuum lines
Cat delete
Muffler delete.

Please, help. I'm afraid that this car is going to cost me my life on the interstate if i dont figure it out soon.

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[Raweaver_410]

Okay so my first assumption with the missing is simply a fuel issue, if you have a leak on the top of your tank then you are getting air in the lines which will cause the car to misfire at higher rpm because the ip is starving for fuel.
For your temperature sensor, you probably have a bad wire somewhere.

 

[UhOh]

As Raweaver_410 suggests, you need to first address the fuel leakage issue.

Are you seeing any air bubbles in the (clear) fuel line going to the IP? I'd think that you should see some (more so under higher demand).

EGR stuff is removed. Did you do this or was it this way when you bought the car? Hopefully it's all done properly: there's a tune that addresses this fact.

Rewinding... has this car always performed this way since you've had it?

A quick thing to check would be the snowscreen. I'd also be inclined to disconnect the MAF and take it for a spin to see if there's any chance in behavior (other than it then feeling like a dog- but it shouldn't jump around).

 

[Bobby_Johnson]

I did the EGR delete myself.
The car has been acting this way since I bought it about a month ago now.

I do have air in the lines. Been chasing that demon for awhile now.

The fuel on top of the tank.. Do I need to replace those fittings/lines on the tank? They don't seem wet. I attempted to tighten the cap/lid but i guess it didn't work.

I'm just curious about what could be happening with the engine at say.. 2400 rpm. This seem to be the area of operation when the issues occur.

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[UhOh]

OK, we don't really have a good baseline to reference here. And with the mods/changes added into the mix it's possible that the problem has been compounded.

Are you saying that in any gear (at any load) there's an issue around 2,400 RPM?

If you're seeing air in the fuel lines then that's where one needs to concentrate.

Using a MityVac or equiv draw fuel from the input side of the fuel filter. See if you're pulling air in along with the fuel. If so then you'll need to look for hose/line issues back to the tank.

To look to isolate on the post fuel filter and IP side of things you could hook up a separate fuel container. Here's a reference:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=327684

It references this video (which I cannot view at this time due to bandwidth limitations):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iq_ZGh1KEec

 

[Bobby_Johnson]

Yes, as far as I can tell its at any speed and gear. I just have to drive in that rpm range. On my way home today I will confirm it though. I'll drive whatever speed it takes to have 2400 rpm and hold it there to see if it does it.


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[UhOh]

What you'll eventually want to do is to get VCDS. VCDS is really a necessity given the fact that so much runs through the ECU. It's well worth the price. I'd almost state that no one should be allowed to work on one of these engines unless they have it! Anyway, in this case here it's highly likely that VCDS would point to the smoking gun.

Knoxville. I once was back in that area. Really liked it. Almost moved there.

 

[Bobby_Johnson]

Yeah sounds like VCDS needs to be in my future.

As for replicating the issue at any speed (rpm specific) it didn't seem to do it (however, I wasn't able to drive for long periods of time at that gear/rpm/speed.

So I'm going to have to say, it's 4th/5th gear 2400-2600 rpm.

The deceleration/smoke issue however Is confirmed at all speeds.

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[UhOh]

Deceleration issues such as what you're describing tend to be related to fuel delivery, most often with an IQ that's set too low.

The fact that the car won't start with the CTS wiring hooked up leads me to believe that maybe there's a wiring issue going on, maybe a bad connector or the wiring is broken somewhere in the harness. In my limited exposure to issues related to the CTS I don't recall hearing any case in which having one hooked up has caused a no-start condition (this one might need to be added to the "Car won't start troubleshooting" sticky!).

 

[Bobby_Johnson]

Just a little update.. I raise the hood and idled the engine up slowly through the RPMs and found that massive amounts of large air bubbles in the clear fuel line. Replaced the clamps ands still doing it.

Checked on top of the tank again, don't think it had any more fuel on top since last time. Dried it all up and will drive the car a few days and check the tank again. I'm not going to fill it up, I believe I recall reading a topic here about a vent or something that leaks fuel when the tank is filled.. Could that be where the fuel is coming from?

Figured I would drive it with no more than half a tank to see.

I don't have access to VCDS or a vacuum pump to check the lines.

Could the injection pump be causing the air pockets? Reason I ask, when I bought the car the guy said he believed it would need a new injection pump soon. Claims it got really loud about 5k miles ago.

I do have to say the engine is rather loud when running.

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[UhOh]

You really need to get some actual diagnostic tools on this at this point. Buy them and learn to use them or pay someone to figure this out. If not, then this thing will become a nagging hobby. People here cannot magically guess what's happening w/o any data.

We can chase tails here, only to find another thing that the PO might have told you (BTW - maybe you can ask him WHY he said what he said- maybe he knows what's going on?) that has relevancy. To answer your question related to the IP, YES. It might be as simple as installing a couple new seals or it might be that you need to replace the IP. Again, this is only guessing. You could be looking at some $$s here, in which case you really ought to get your car to someone who is proficient with these engines (or prepare yourself for a rapid ramp-up in education on them).

 

[belome]

T fitting?

 

[sdeck]

Ditto on fixing the air in fuel issue. the IP can absolutely cause air leaks. Runonbeer has a how-to on resealing it.
1. Is there any wetness on or below the IP? These are known to leak with age, especially if there has been any biodiesel/WVO use. it can be resealed on the car, but it is not a process for the faint of heart. IMHO, its pretty straightforward except for the part about getting the head out just far enough to replace the main seal but not so far as to drop the pin into the pump innards. If that happens, the pump needs to come off the car.
2. You could try running some BioD to see if the air issues go away. BioD will swell the seals in the IP over a couple hundred miles. Its a short term diagnostic though, not a long term fix.
3. You could also rig up a small fuel bottle in the engine bay and connect the IP directly to it, bypassing the main tank, filter, and lines to see if the air is coming from the upstream side.
4. The T-fitting in the fuel filter is also a known issue for leaking air. The o-rings are prone to leaking and the fitting itself can get cracked.
5. You haven't mentioned any CELs. Even a scan with a generic OBD2 reader at a local parts store may help.

 

[whitedog]

T fitting?

That's my first thought. PO didn't ever replace the Orings on it when changing the fuel filter.

Also, find someone nearby with VCDS and throw money at them so they will work with you on checking things like Group 3, 4, 11 and IQ. Heck they don'e even need to drive a TDI - they can drive a gasser. Obviously they aren't as smart as a TDI owner (They drive a gasser for Gods sake - or was a Pope) but they have the basic tool to help you get information needed to get your car running right.

And check that the intake manifold isn't clogged.

 

[KLXD]

He said he has a new filter in it. Should have fixed any T issues but that assumes correct o-rings and installation.

Leak on the pump shouldn't cause bubbles in fuel line while running. That points to a leak between the pump and tank.

No start with the CTS connected seems to mean it wants the plugs on to start. Bunch of possibilities: late timing, low compression, weak pump, you name it.

Missing between 71 and 74 but ok above does not seem to me to be fuel related but you obviously have leaks so fix them first. Tight clamps do not necessarily mean no leaks.

Rule of thumb: get the car running right before making mods and tearing off parts.

 

[Bobby_Johnson]

I replaced the T with a new one along with new O rings.

Replaced all clamps, checked the tank connections and drilled out the check valve. Still have massive air bubbles at 2000+ rpm.

I made a real short video outside of the car with the hood closed so you can hear the loud noise that i question is coming from the injection pump?

https://goo.gl/photos/ptMSt8nP7eZoh5CN9

"KLXD", EXACTLY.. when the cts is connected it will not fire the glow plugs and unless the engine is very warm it will not restart unless you disconnect it again.

Basically I unhook it, start the car and then reconnect it.

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[PGM jetta]

Have you replaced all of the return lines on the injectors?

Seems like you've addressed all lines except these

 

[Bobby_Johnson]

Actually no, I'm glad you brought that up. They aren't wet or anything but look old. Should I replace those and if so, where do I get them? Are they special or anything?

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[PGM jetta]

I believe they are 3mm

You might could use 1/8" fuel hose from any auto parts store, but 1/8" is 3.175mm

You might could search on here to see what people use.

If nothing else, just go to Harper VW in Knoxville and get the lines