Help me diagnose my jetta

csstevej

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Location
north nj
TDI
2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
What do you mean by “ fixed the destroyed clutch and lever “? Did you instal a new setup or instal the same with some new parts?

If clutch is that bad you want to install a new clutch , pressure plate , new flywheel , lever pivot pin and throw out bearing. Axles shouldn’t be causing any issues
 

jokila

Vendor
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
Axles can cause vibrations on deceleration if an inner CV joint is faulty. Maybe the clank is related to the axles.
 

turbodieseldyke

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2010
Location
Free Mustache Rides
TDI
98 jetta
would it be pass with a cut up a cat and wrap it around a part of my straight pipe
Since you already failed the visual, don't you think they'll look more closely at your "new" cat?

Speaking of new, that 2.5" model linked at idparts is not california-compliant, and connecticut has adopted some california emission standards, so look carefully into that before going that route.
 

n0.j0y

Active member
Joined
Jan 19, 2024
Location
connecticut
TDI
2002 jetta gls tdi
hello again everyone op here, so i’ve read through all the comments and different opinions and came with the conclusion to change the fuel filter included the T thing on top and it fixed my misfire issue but with the rain being so dense i tried doing a pull and dumped the clutch at around 29k-3k ish and went fine the first three times but in the forth i had a bit of a rolling start and everything went wrong my bottom motor mount snapped off and sent the engine forward hitting radiator n hella other things for right now my understanding is bad lower control arm shot strut bushings and semi broken axles was the secondary cause, obviously i know it was my fault and will put the work into making it be able to eat burnouts n pulls, but i was wondering what are ur guys opinions on making everything handle that stress and eventually more power n more stress?
 

n0.j0y

Active member
Joined
Jan 19, 2024
Location
connecticut
TDI
2002 jetta gls tdi
originally i was thinking 24mm sway bar and end links, eventually stage3 motor mounts from ecs, tubaler control arms and some coil overs.
opinion are welcome, lmk if any of these things will even make a difference.
 

STDOUBT

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Location
Portland, effing Oregon
TDI
dos jettas
will put the work into making it be able to eat burnouts n pulls
Why though.
what are ur guys opinions on making everything handle that stress and eventually more power n more stress?
Personally I'm more into longevity/proper function than "burnouts". Thing is, all that stuff is great until your crank bearings burn up.
stage3 motor mounts from ecs, tubaler control arms and some coil overs.
It sounds like money is not an issue for this car. That's awesome. Just realize, you're really not buying anything that will increase the longevity of the car. The Noise Vibration and Hashness, yes. Performance, maybe (coilovers lol). It would be a shame if you souped this car up for the track, and then threw a rod. Not saying stageIII is crap per se, but by default it generally is... without the proper hardware, a tune is a crap shoot.
Recommend getting the car in tits condition stock-wise. By then you'll probably learn there's a happy medium between burnouts and long engine life. One guys opinions.
 

braddies

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Location
America
TDI
03 golf ALH
originally i was thinking 24mm sway bar and end links, eventually stage3 motor mounts from ecs, tubaler control arms and some coil overs.
opinion are welcome, lmk if any of these things will even make a difference.
If you're thinking about redoing the front end the Audi TT components might be worth swapping in. If you can find a mk1 TT at a junkyard (fwd or quattro, same difference) pull the whole subframe with sway bar, spindles, control arms, brakes and brake lines.
You gain; stiffer subframe bushings in the tt, more camber/caster adjustment with the control arms, better geometry with the spindles, 312mm rotors if you want the big brakes but if not 1.8t calipers mount right up to the spindles with, iirc, 1.8t 288mm rotors, 16 or 17 inch wheels minimum after the swap though.
Then you can put any TT shocks on with the sway bar mount already welded on. I went with Bilstein b6 with tt 225 springs and fresh bearing and bushings
 
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