Help ! Injector Pump Seal Leaks

[Southside tdi]

I recently changed my fuel filter, and the IP on my 1998 jetta TDI started to leak like a stuck pig, I used the link above as a guide to replace the top cover seal and the mid section seals. I got the socket from metal nerd, and the kit for the whole IP on amazon
Bosch 2467010003 kit was about $18.00

 

[BamaB4S]

CORRECTION
I am in Montgomery,AL and need the pump rebuilt. leaking at the rotor head where the 4 flanged fuel lines come in at.
Anyone or anyplace that can do this in the Montgomery, Birmingham, Atlanta area???

Highly recommend Hutchinson Volkswagen in Birmingham. 205-322-6644. They recently sealed my leaking IP and also performed the Timing Belt kit maintenance.

 

[mackconsult]

95 B4V GLS with 1997 TDI transplant -> injeciton pump leak

Just ordered the seal kit and special tool. I have read up on this repair about marking the cover and then using vag-com to ensure it all goes back together properly. Any other comments.

 

[mackconsult]

Well crap. I took the pump apart and put new top and bottom seals on. Marked the covers so that I could at least try to get them back to the right spot. It turns over and sputters, like its trying to start, but won't run.

 

[TonyJetta]

Try measuring iq while cranking the engine. Adjust the iq per the hammer mod instructions.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

 

[BioDiesel']

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPk94mQyack

Worked for me. running 75%WVO/25% ULSD. leaked. 75% bio-diesel stopped the leak

 

[ddc]

Can we get a sticky for people who do IP seals and trusted shops that do rebuilds?

 

[Thorne]

I may give this rebuild service a try

My IP is leaking from the top end somewhere, per Tomas Sport Tuning in Berkeley, so just replacing the bottom seal isn't an option. I'll try the "Healing with Biodiesel" as described in the YouTube video posted by BioDiesel' above, as recently I've been running straight ULSD instead of getting a biodiesel mix.

If that doesn't work, the local shop has had enough bad experiences with independent rebuilds that they now only buy rebuilt IPs from the dealer. But I'm unwilling to spend that amount of money when there are experienced mechanics out there. I've contacted "dieseldrive" (who posted the below on this thread) on eBay and we'll see what the turnaround time is.

Click http://www.ebay.com/itm/251430794858?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 for top quality reseal service for your TDI injjection pump by a true professional. Full disclosure - I am the the person who is offering the service, and have been a factory trained Diesel Fuel Injection technician since 1982, but the reason I am posting this info here is due to reading all of the stories of pumps being resealed and then having Q/A codes and perfromance problems. The service offered here is to replace all of the seals in your pump except for the black box seals on the side of the Q/A, and those rarely leak), including the drive shaft seal, which includes removing and reinstalling the drive hub (on ALH pumps) in the exactly correct position (which is insures static timing is back to original specifications). You will NOT have to perform any Q/A corrections with the VAGCOM. This can only be done by installing the Q/A housing back in the exact same position as it was before it was removed to replace the seal beneath it; I use a jig and depth micrometer that enables me to install the housing within .0005" inches of original (half a thousandth of an inch) which will result in proper performance without having to "fudge" your ECU into thinking the Q/A is back to spec (which can't always be done). Contrary to popular belief, the Q/A housing position is part of the pumps calibration by Bosch when it was built new, and once that setting is lost, it is very difficult to get it back to original with having a Bosch Diesel shop recailbrate the pump. The service has been offered on Ebay since 2007 with hundreds of satisfied customers (100% satisfaction). Check it out, and drop me a note if you have questions.

 

[nh nam vet]

I never thought that I would be back on this thread, but my newly acquired (second) green B4 started dripping diesel at the head pump seal. I tackled this job in 2012 for my daily driver B4 in a previous post here. I prepped myself by reviewing the seven YouTube videos that Robby Plenge and Jim Royston thankfully put together.

I got in the garage about 6 AM and had my tools put away about 2 PM, but I did take pictures, notes and had a meal. I also used VCDS for setting the Injection Quantity:


and used the timing graph to advance the timing as it was very retarded before starting the reseal:



I did not use the seal provided in the Bosch Seal Kit, but again tried to use the Vaseline coated AS568-229 3.53 mm fat O-ring, but it just refused to seat in the pump body. I wound up using the smaller AS568-142, which is only 2.36 mm thick.

Here is pump head out with the broken, pick pried leaking O-ring:



I also wanted to show you a sketch showing the front of injection pump head and the various bolts and brackets:




Here it is in PDF if you want a copy:


I did have one challenge that I could not overcome, and really don't know what to do about. The bolt (my arbitrary #14 in the sketch) that goes through the bottom bracket on the pump head and connects though to the engine attached bracket could not be reattached. The cone tapered nut is supposed to mate into the engine bracket but I couldn't get this happen. Here is the nut/bolt:



I tried everything I could think of to get that nut to stay put while starting the bolt but I could not get the nut to stay put. So I have the two front bolts and the one top rear bracket bolt holding my diesel injection pump in position. What do you think? With regards to Meatloaf, is 3 out of 4 not bad??? Jeff

 

[Abacus]

I've run across a few 1Z/AHU's with that bolt missing and it had been missing awhile. That being said, I would definitely reattach it since without it the pump is only secured in one plane. Use a magnet on a flexible arm to put it in position and then you can hold it with one finger while threading in the bolt. It's not nearly as bad as replacing the T-bolt on the timing cover.

Run a tap & die over it to clean up the threads and give it another go. It sounds like it's just binding from time and corrosion/debris. Or you can just get another one, they're around $7 at your local dealer. For the price, I'd just go new. Come to think of it, I have no spares left so I should get some coming.

 

[nh nam vet]

Thanks again, Abacus for your insight and advice. I will give it another go and I will definitely order new. I guess that I have become too much of a mechanic working on these TDI's that to let it go without that support bolt would bother me. Also, I hate being stranded.

I did remember your recent and excellent posting about the T-bolt on the lower timing cover. I first used a couple zip ties with copper wire and electrical tape to thread the cone nut in from the back but it would not seat. I also tried heat shrink on the cone as well but couldn't get a good fit. I am frustrated, but I won't give up. Thank you.

 

[206danebmx]

I just replaced the top seal and the seal below the QA housing. This thread is awesome!

Pretty simple job. I'd say the hardest part was tapping the adjuster housing with the bolts just snug to get the inj. qty back to where it was before. Its tricky as the value changes as you loosen and tighten the bolts. I was able to get it within about .3 of where it was before (4.5). Figured that was close enough.

Don't know if it entirely fixed my leaks, I'll check again once the engine is cold and after cleaning the entire pump up.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Just my $.02 on the seal change:

I didn't have the proper barring tool for the job, so I got my pump on cam by rolling the car backwards in 5th gear. Also, my pump seems much different from the one in the Diesel Geek videos - once I was ready to pull my head seal out all the internals seemed quite loose, and rattled a bit whenever I put any pressure on the head. I was concerned about the washer falling out which was mentioned, but never had any trouble.

In case you haven't watched the vids, just go ahead and buy a T30 Craftsman bit and appropriate ratchet. I didn't, and had to scramble for one in the middle of the job.

Also, I'd recommend replacing the three copper O-rings at the return line banjo bolt if you have them in your kit. Just takes (two, preferably) 17mm wrenches.

 

[LLL]

I read all the threads and if I understood, changing the top cover seal need no hammer mode,
no VAG-COM... just replace the seal, fasten the cover back, crank the engine and you are good to go, right?

 

[Andreas1989]

I replaced the upper and lower IQ Housing seal yesterday on my Golf MK3 1995 1Z(Germany Imported Engine).
All went smooth fired up almost instantly afterwards and the leak was fixed, engine runs smother as well no more heavy vibration and much more balanced power.
Putted the IQ at 3.4-3.2 was about 4-3.8 and it has much more power now and no black smoke still.
Will try to adjust it a touch lower on software adaption and see how it goes.

I used this kit for the job was cheap and genuine Bosch set:http://www.ebay.com/itm/262273105472?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Abacus]

I read all the threads and if I understood, changing the top cover seal need no hammer mode,
no VAG-COM... just replace the seal, fasten the cover back, crank the engine and you are good to go, right?

Yes, you are correct.

But I have found that seal rarely leaks. Usually the pump leaks from the Quantity Adjuster seal below it, which does require a Vag-Com to set properly.

 

[LLL]

Sighhhhhhh... I found today that it leaks not from the cover seal, but from the backside! Where the lower red arrow begins (on the pic) that ellipse shaped thing with two allen torx bolts - there is on the back of the IP on the same level one more thing like it, with two bolts, but it's flat, looks like some kind of cover (like the blockage thing for egr bypassing). It's dripping one drop per 3-4 seconds, only when engine runs. The place where it is located is reeeeeal pain in ...!!!... so probably I do need to do what I was most afraid of, to dismount the IP! But for now, I'm just going to make some drainage of the leakage, just to protect the coolant hoses... dismounting will wait.
P.S. I'm already getting tired with this... one thing you fix, another one already breaks down...
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[PD41]

Welcome to the TDIDrip Club. I have 2 1996 TDI's in the driveway that are dripping.
Mine are both dripping from the o-ring where the 4 lines come out.
You can do some of the O-rings without pulling the IP (injection pump).

Once you get the bugs worked out they are great cars.
Also they say if you can get some Bio-diesel it will swell up the o-rings and the leak will stop.

Here is the 1st of the 7 videos to fix it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VR44StvcXms&list=PL60A728A1526379ED

 

[LLL]

Yeah, thanks PD41, but I've already been there Became a TDIDrip Club member in 2007 The IP was repaired with all the seals and washers... after almost ten years, still no leaks except this little pain in... Thanks for the videos but I'm not going to change seals (for now), it will do a specialist. No mistakes, no headaches.

 

[LLL]

Done. Today I made some kind of cone and attached a hose on it... the cone is now under the dripping place, and hose (4mm) is leading next to the oil pan. The coolant hoses under the IP are secured, for now (and cleaned up with brake cleaner). Fuel consumption will be slightly increased, but that's it... I'm tired from all these endless fixes on this already 21 year old pall of mine...
However, the IP goes on seal/washer repair when I'll have more time.

 

[garciapiano]

For what it’s worth, I found a tech who reseals pumps for $175 not including shipping. He replaces all seals and gaskets and mails the pump back to you.

I had him reseal my pump and it’s working great thus far, no leaks, very fast turnaround. I don’t know if he’d be comfortable with me sharing his name publicly, but I’ll refer you to him if you PM ame.

 

[Jackbear]

Mystery Fix for Leaking IP: My Heat Gun treatment ??

My 96 B4v has 287K miles and started to leak fuel about 2 fill-ups after I started to use Propel fuel.

Switched back to Grade 2 diesel from Rotton Robie but leak continued.

Did add a half tank of home brew bio fuel from one of the last few private stations in Berkeley because I found myself in the area - being taxi service to my wife who also suffers from dwindling retail options: the last good fabric store in northern CA is in Berkeley. We hate the drive through traffic so we rarely go.

The addition of bio fuel and driving the car for miles did nothing to change the fuel leaking out at a steady drip drip. Still left a three tablespoon or more puddle of fuel under the car every time I parked.

I resolved to sweat it out through the winter and tackle the leak come first days of sun and not so cold weather.

Even bought some JB Weld with the thought to coat the pump from the outside.

Trouble with that idea was that I still did not know exactly where on my injection pump sprang the constant dripping of fuel that runs down onto my water hoses . I could not coat the entire surface of the installed IP so I sidelined the epoxie coating idea till I found the leak.

Tried to locate the leak with fuel dye and a boroscope from AutoZone.

In the process I seem to have fixed the leak. At least for now.

What I did.

To better try to locate the leak I soaped down the pump and surrounding engine parts to wash off everything shiny and oily.

Hot water hosed off the soap and since it was a cold day I got out my industrial grade hair dryer and dried everything in about 10 minutes. I took care to not melt anything by fingering all the surfaces to make sure they were not too hot to touch.

Everything was made quite warm including the engine block behind the pump.

I turned over the engine to start it and got a red engine light on the dash so I repeated the heat treat to dry out the electrical. Red light problem solved and apparent fuel leak problem solved as well.

Drove the car for 20 miles, stopping every few miles to see if fuel leaked out. Nada !

That was 3 weeks ago and all is still dry.

I spent $4 for a bottle of Dawn dish soap and about $16 for 3-2 oz bottles of fuel dye.

Now that is me getting back to my level of frugality when it comes to keeping my old car going.

Now I need a-arm bushings and motor mounts and shocks. Not sure how I am going to do that on the cheap.

BTW: I did learn that one can get mirrored polycarbonite from TAP Plastic from their scrap bin for under $4.

Cut and sanded down to size it makes a dandy replacement mirror element for the passenger side mirror that fell out last week with no prior warning.

Seems everything plastic and degradeable is right on schedule to crumble and fall off.

 

[vwxyzero]

Sounds like mine before the lifters ate themselves. My bet is the IP seals need to be replaced with Viton <sic> seals. Happened to me going from 100% Biodiesel to Dino Diesel!
You need a parts car if you want to keep that puppy happy. It's your lucky day, my 96' B4 sedan is available, and has tons of parts minus the lifters and maybe the head too.
LA area, let me know if you're interested #reasonable

 

[Jackbear]

Thanks for offer of parts for my B4V But...

The engine on my tdi has only 96K on the block and 30 K on the head, so i am good for those. What I need now are shocks, front suspension rubber and joints.

Know any inexpensive sources of new or useable suspension parts for a B4V?

 

[vwxyzero]

The engine on my tdi has only 96K on the block and 30 K on the head, so i am good for those. What I need now are shocks, front suspension rubber and joints.

Know any inexpensive sources of new or useable suspension parts for a B4V?

https://www.idparts.com/

There are also a number of vendors on this side too. Do a search for "vendors"

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

 

[vwxyzero]

Meant to say "search this *site". Search for
IndigoBlueWagon principal IDParts. There are others too.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

 

[vwxyzero]

The engine on my tdi has only 96K on the block and 30 K on the head, so i am good for those. What I need now are shocks, front suspension rubber and joints.

Know any inexpensive sources of new or useable suspension parts for a B4V?

Great price on Bilstein TC Front Strut for Passat (B4)
https://www.idparts.com/bilstein-tc-front-strut-for-passat-b4-p-640.html