Help ! Injector Pump Seal Leaks

[jollyGreenGiant]

Actually they put out OK light the problem really occurs when one leaves them on. They get all melty and the glass goes klink...

 

[Warthog]

"emiata" is a Chinese after-market parts supplier. They represent themselves as making a lot of replacement parts...quality unknown.

 

[Ray_G]

I believe also ebayer Prothe. Has the same pump for the same price there.

 

[rallymerkur]

That ain't no hex head boy!

required tool

try a search for "pump leak fix" or the like. its been done and documented before.

So is there anything else special about that bolt, other then the head? Could someone just slot the head, remove the bolt and replace it with something conventional?

 

[Warthog]

That HAS been done. It was mentioned in another post about leaky diesel fuel pump repait. They used a Dremel tool and cut a lot that a screwdriver would fit into tightly. Tightly, since the screws are pretty tight and you don't want to bugger the head when you try to undo it.
Bosch only did this to keep us out of the pump. Old pumps don't have this screw with special head.

 

[Ray_G]

I have also seen something about just driving a 1/4 inch socket on it with a hammer. I have the special tool, so don't know the size socket to use.
Ray

 

[mjanney]

Thanks for the help, I replaced both seals, very easy to do with the instructions in this thread. The hammer mod was a bit tricky for me, because every time I tightened the bolts (clockwise motion pushed pump toward passenger side), the IP number would drop, so I set it high around 8 then tightened and ended up between 4 and 5, just where I wanted to be.

 

[mjanney]

Sorry I meant clockwise pushed pump toward driver side and reduced the IQ number

 

[rallymerkur]

I have also seen something about just driving a 1/4 inch socket
Ray

Figured it out (I measured the three flat sides of the bolt head), it's a 7mm 1/4" drive socket with three sides rounded. I went to the pawn shop and bought several 7mm sockets for trial and error and used a flexable shaft grinder with a small stone to modify three sides of the socket. Got it right the first time and fits like OEM. I'll have to post pictures. Total cost was $.50 and 3 minutes of my time.

 

[lupin..the..3rd]

Yay! Just replaced the middle and upper seal in my IP today. Installed a new fuel temp sensor while I was in there too. Replaced all the copper crush washers too using the Bosch kit.

First time I sealed it back up, vag-com was reporting bizzaro iq amounts. hopping around between 0.2 and 1.2. Engine ran rough and sputtery. I took off the top half of the pump again, looked around, all looked good, so I put it back together. Started it again and had a smooth idle with iq of 1.8. hurray! so a few whacks of the mallet and I was up at 3.4. Perfect. Tightened everything down, went for a test drive, and measured again. 3.6 at NOT. Doesn't get much better than that!

I used the metalnerd IP socket, a Panasonic Toughbook running latest VAG-COM version and Hex-Com cable, and a complete ip reseal kit from bosch.

 

[Howler]

Hey folks. my leaky pump is about to be replaced with a 100K mile used one from L and T enterprizes. I am also replacing the 3-way coolant hose, and will be ordering injectors. I have VAGcom, cam plate, locking pin and regular tools. After this is done, I will probably be selling my leaky pump for a rebuild.

Can you recommend any other helpful tools or parts I might need? Looks like I need a gear puller and some other Harbor Freight tools.

 

[jollyGreenGiant]

24mm and 7mm ( i think ) wrench for the fuel stop solenoid, floor jack or top-side engine support ( assuming this is for an A4 engine, not needed for the B4 ). Gear puller not needed for the B4 either ( you can use a drift from behind ), just the A4 and the Metalnerd one is really the absolute best one for this. Other than that just a good set of hand tools. Oh, a Mityvac or equivalent too.

For the injectors, if they're really stubborn you might need an injector puller available from Metalnerd.

Sent you an IM about that old pump...

This is just like

 

[marvins_dad]

At 72k it appears that I have a failed middle seal.

Read through this and a couple other threads as well as a few How-To's, ordered the kit and the tool....

The only thing I am concerned about is the Hammer mod...not so much the hammer mod and direction and such, but the Vag-Com portion of it.
Are there any screen shots anywhere that show what I am supposed to be looking at?

I entered 08Engine...then 000 and it gives me the 7 boxes...am I supposed to be looking at box#4? That is the only thing I could get out of the Vag-Com site.
Also, I am unclear if the engine should be running or not. Can it be done both ways?


Doing this on Sunday and would really like some feedback if possible.

http://www.newbeetle.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=27065&stc=1&d=1167878685

 

[whitedog]

Marvin, in case I wasn't clear before, just take a scribe and scribe through that yellow paint and line up the marks when done. Then check and do the tap-tap.

 

[marvins_dad]

Marvin, in case I wasn't clear before, just take a scribe and scribe through that yellow paint and line up the marks when done. Then check and do the tap-tap.

Got the scribing thing, but the Vag Com element to fine tune it and check for exact alignment is what I am unclear of.

 

[jollyGreenGiant]

Measuring Value Blocks 001 / Display Field 2 has what you need; the "Injected Quantity" field is what you want to dial in. It is recommended to write down your current setting while the engine is up to temp with all electrical and load consumers off. The number you collect should be in the 3-5 range most likely and this is what you want to return it to after the work. You can leave the fasteners just tight enough so that the seals will function but the QA can be moved slightly with tapping, you can then choose to start the engine, check the number and then shut down and make an adjustment or you can do it while the engine is running but you must make sure not to make too much of an adjustment or you risk potential runaway. If you make the adjustments while the engine is running, you will most likely set a DTC which you should clear once your all set.

Does that make sense? Remember, the slightest mechanical movement equates to large changes in the numbers, it's a very precise thing. You don't need to "hammer" the pump too hard if the fasteners are just tight enough.

72K and leakage? Were you running bio or just D2? Just curious... I would be prepared that the pump head seal might start to leak too, they like to all fail around the same time as far as I've seen.

 

[marvins_dad]

Okay, found some screen shots from Ross-Tech...

Help me out here and tell me if this is the right direction....

Click on 01-Engine...

You get this screen...

Click on Meas. Blocks - 08

You get this...

Here's my question...
I put "000" in and get this line...

What numbers am I looking at while adjusting doing the "Hammer Mod"?
Or am I completely in the wrong area?

 

[jollyGreenGiant]

If this ECM were a TDI, you would have seen in field 2 the IQ under Group 001...

 

[marvins_dad]

I'll check mine tonite and pull a screenshot.

Thanks!

 

[P2B]

Here ya go....

Simon

 

[marvins_dad]

Here ya go....

Simon

Nice!

 

[marvins_dad]

Sorry to hijack...but want to be sure...

Here is what I get with the key on, but engine off

I turn the engine on and got these readings...

After a minute of the car running I get this error...

Do these readings look semi normal...engine was basically cold, no driving warmup for 10-15 minutes...
Also, any ideas on this error?...I suppose I can continue to turn off the engine and crank it to check the settings.

 

[rdkern]

IQ of 7.8? I thought 6 was about right with huge nozzles - 5 for .205's and 3-4 about right stock. Seems like it should cause too little fuel for most goals. What's the problem again? Too lazy to go back...

 

[whitedog]

Kern, would it matter that the engine was cold?

The original problem was a leak on the IP and he is trying to familiarize himself with how to read the IQ so he can dig into it tomorrow.

 

[rdkern]

IQ should be check hot - so it probably does matter.
Fully warm, that would be a high setting.

 

[whitedog]

IQ should be check hot - so it probably does matter.
Fully warm, that would be a high setting.

I was pretty sure it should be. I think he just posted that to be sure that he was on the right track for checking.

 

[marvins_dad]

Okay - I will def. check it warm tomorrow - 10-15 min. of driving before checking.

(yeah, I kept hearing folks talk about the Hammer Mod and VagCom portion, just never saw anyone walk through it with visuals...just trying to work it out before I take off the first bolt)

Thanks

 

[rdkern]

I've had very strange readings when cold. Sorry I didn't read a bit more before posting. I checked my injector readings cold, and convinced myself that I needed to change the injectors. Good thing, but after ordering parts, etc, I rechecked when warm. All withing .8 of each other - within the -2 to 2 acceptable range. However, I do like my .205's.

 

[lupin..the..3rd]

Just changed the ip head seal using the dieselgeek viton part and "in-car" installation method. Whew, glad that that's over with! Works like a champ now and no more leaks!

Do I need to check/set the iq after doing the ip head seal? I just set iq to 3.6 w/ hammer mod last week when I changed the top and middle seals...

 

[jollyGreenGiant]

Do I need to check/set the iq after doing the ip head seal? I just set iq to 3.6 w/ hammer mod last week when I changed the top and middle seals...

No, the plunger/piston/pump head assembly will fall back into the same position when tightened back up thus no correction needed.