tamorgen said:I did a search of 1stVWparts and the cloth elements are like twice as expensive.
Does what element really have to do with the material or the shape of the seat? I have cloth seats now in my 01 Wolfsburg, but I want to get new leather upholstery installed. I want to add the heated elements and wiring first, or at least along with it. Do I need the cloth elements because of the shape of my seats, or the leather because I'm adding leather, and different elements act differntly with different materials
Also, is there a better source out there for elements that will work with factory wiring?
That's exactly what I am doing. I have already found a source for the OEM spec harness.Getriebe Guy said:So it sounds like you are having an upholstery shop turn your VW orig equipment fabric seats into leather seats?
I had been looking at those, I'm just not sure if the factory wiring and switches will work. I may have to give them a call. The OEM pads look to be twice the price, unless I can find a junked MK4 to get them out of.Getriebe Guy said:Buying aftermarket seat heating elements may be an option for you.
I installed heating elements from www.heatedseatkits.com and so have quite a few forum members with great reviews. Now that it is 50 degrees on Michigan mornings I'm back to using my heated seat every day and I love it. These elements would work fine for leather or cloth and you can trim them to shape but from my experience they don't need to be trimmed for Mk4 seats. I've got the aftermarket switch on my IP that has high/low/off positions. If you are really set on using the factory wiring I would think the factory wiring would drive the afermarket seat heating element with no problem as the factory switch is basically a potentiometer that varies the current to the heating element. If you are not set on using factory wiring then the heated seat kit comes with all the wiring you need, just put it under your leather seat covers and you are good to go.
I am new to reparing/modding my golf and am looking for some help in diagnosing the problem with my heated seats.
I have a MK4 2005.5 Golf GTTDI 130, the driver's seat heats up fine, however the passenger seat does not heat up in any part of it. I have checked the fuse as I believe it is the same fuse as for the driver's seat and this is fine.
Would I be correct in thinking that it would be unusual for all the elements in the seat to fail at once, or is it a case of if one fails then it would break the entire circuit?
Could anyone help describe the steps I should go through to diagnose what the problems could be before biting the bullet and deciding whether to get VW to replace the heating elements or not.
Thanks in advance,
Look back on the second page at the post from Oldpoopie68redbug2000jetta said:hi guys ive been reading this topic for a good while (link was on vortex) and im still really stumped on everything (im use to working on aircooleds).now im going to be wiring my car for cloth heated seats.i guess i use the diagram shown?also i noticed the part #'s for the repair wires for the green/brown connectors on the dash switch...what would be the repair wire #'s for the connector under the seat?thanks
Also, consider going over to Vortex and looking at their parts post. If you look under Golf/Jetta MKIV, often users will be selling the whole wiring harness and switches out of a wrecked MKIV. Could save you a lot of time and effort. And if you want to go the new route, look at http://www.kufatec.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p170_Seat-Heating---Harness---VW-Bora.html/XTCsid/4007b6c78f6a8b6312f02e7326696c87 You will pay a premium for shipping, as they only ship via FedEx from Europe, but if you can find anyone else that needs wiring harnesses, you can offset the shipping costs to more reasonable if you split the costs. Either that, or order many harnesses that you may need in the future, just so you don't have to keep paying for the shipping.oldpoopie said:Ok, turns out I had a little crisis getting the connector housing (1J0-937-731) at the seat. IMPEX said it was out of stock in north america, as did my local dealer. I ordered it anyway from my dealer on thursday. Then, friday evening, I contacted GSXR600 of mb pierburg fame, and asked him to source them from germany for me. He said no problem. Well,long story short, the dealer calls me sat and says the parts are in! /images/graemlins/eek.gif Turns out the old # was supplanted by 2 new parts.
They are: 1j0-937-713 (pink locking tab)
1j0-937-714 (blue locking tab)
The two parts slide and lock together forming the complete connector. You'll have to insert any repair wires before you lock the 2 connectors together. You'll need 2 of each. Here are some pics:
Here is the answer you had wanted....tamorgen said:Okay, for anyone else needing this in the future, if you buy a harness that someone took out of their car, and you get frayed ends for the wires going to fuse 44 & fuse 5, I was able to figure out which repair wires you need.
Fuse 44, you need 000 979 227
Fuse 5, you need 000 979 225
These are simply yellow repair wires, about 18", with a connector on each end. You buy one, and you get two connections out of it.
I wired mine up non-factory. I actually just used an inline fuse holder and connected it to the switched termial under the dash. This way I save a few $$ from the repair wires. Plus I was able to use 14 AWG the entire way. I feel a tad safer knowing that I have thicker wire, and I noticed that my seats heat up faster than my friends factory seats.Shenandoah said:Guys,
When I wired mine up, I had only the double clip/prong repair wires on hand. I used fuse position 44 and 33 for my wiring. The hardest part of installing heated seats was getting to the back of the fuse panel!
My heated seats retrofit was done using an aftermarket heated seat kit. They have a pad that sits on the bottom seat and a pad on the vertical part of the seat. With this style, the shape of the seat pad really doesn't matter.
I'm not sure how OEM VW heated seats are set up.
Continuity is a poor test for the temperature sensor's function. They're actually thermistors that generate a variable resistance with changes in temp. According to my very innacurate $4 meter, at ~72°F, the temp sensors should be reading around 7,700 ohms. As they warm up, the resistance drops. I get around 5,000 ohms with it sitting in the warm air stream behind my laptop CPU cooling fan ~100°F.The continuity across the temperature sensors was open for both.
My measurements were made on the black/yellow and brown wires with the seats plugged in. If I read the wiring diagram right, that tests continuity of the seat and seat back heaters all at the same time. It looks like the heater elements are wired in series and the individual plugs for each are glommed together in the 6 pin connector at which I was doing the testing. This all speaks to the heating elements being good. Continuity testing for the thermistor is a different story. The ambient temp was about 65 F tops, so getting a open reading with the tester in "Beep on Continuity" mode doesn't indicate a problem with either of these either.Continuity is a poor test for the temperature sensor's function. They're actually thermistors that generate a variable resistance with changes in temp. According to my very innacurate $4 meter, at ~72°F, the temp sensors should be reading around 7,700 ohms. As they warm up, the resistance drops. I get around 5,000 ohms with it sitting in the warm air stream behind my laptop CPU cooling fan ~100°F.
Also recognize that the voltage you read on the wires at the bottom of the seat are relative to the response provided by the thermistor. If you have unplugged the seat to take your readings, the thermistor looks like an open circuit and the voltage reading should be very low. You'll need to make your measurements with the seat connectors attached.
Another thing to consider when you are making your resistance measurements for the various heating elements themselves is that the typical MkIV seat has 4 different heating elements: Two lower bolster elements, one center bum element, and one lower back element. You can't seem to measure the lower bolster elements separately due to the way they are wired straight off the green plug. The lower bum, you can disconnect the 4 conductor plug under the seat and measure the appropriate wires (not the black/white or brown/black, those are the thermistor. You want the Black/Yellow and Brown solid). The seat back element is the remaining two conductor plug that branches off the green plug under the seat.