Heated seats.......

[VWflappie]

This saturday i have installed soem heated seats in my car (mkIV Golf TDI 81 Kw). The only thing is that the seat on the passenger site workks great, and somehow i cant get the drivers seat to work. Does anybody know how i can check out the internal wiring of the seat??, and maybe find out what is broken (backrest or seat??)

 

[BRBarian]

Do a search...

http://forums.tdiclub.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=19&t=000982&p=2

 

[G60ING]

Ok I've done a fair amount of searching for topics that went into specifics about retrofitting heated seats to cars that did not come with them. I've been down this road before but it was on my old Subaru Impreza I bought a Corrado so I could strip the heated seats harness and elements since I was framilar with the wiring. From the searching I've found a few links to old topics with broken links. I'll tell you what I have:

Seats:

The switches and plugs:

This information from the Vortex listed by Boraguy01:
[ QUOTE ]
its actually pretty easy....ill give u a simplified version

parts needed
1 X 1J0-963-563 (drivers side switch)
1 X 1J0-963-564 (pass side switch
2 X 8L0-971-972 (these are the "switch-connector" that have 6 terminals. They plug into both the pass and driver switches) 2 X $3.68 = $7.36
2 X 1J0-937-731 (green plugs that plug into the seats themselves)
1 x 000 979 407 6 mm Repair wire - $5.40
3 x 000 979 227 2.5 mm Repair wire - $2.35 x 3 = $7.05
4 X 000 979 135 1 mm Repair wire - $1.75 x 4 = $7.00


directions
1) on the "switch-connector" there are 6 connectors (ill name them as they are numbered on the "switch-connector")

terminal 1 powers switch backlight when lights are on

terminal 2 + connection (goes to seat plug). It plugs into seat green plug terminal 4

terminal 3 heat sensor connection (goes to seat plug) It plugs into green seat plug terminal 2

terminal 4 + connection (goes to fuse 44, use 7.5amp fuse if only 1 seat is being wired or use a 15amp fuse if you are doing both seats......on the other end of the fuse--->goes to unswitched power (connection 30 under the relay plate)

terminal 5 goes to (any fuse spot u can find empty and use) then to switched power (connection 75x under the relay plate

terminal 6 Ground (you can use the ground terminal for the intruments thats right below the steering wheel)

------green seat plugs------
on the green seat plugs there are 6 connections, only 4 are used....2 of which i already stated above, the 2 other are ground which are in terminal 1 & 3....again u can ground this to anything.

here is a picture of the relayplate power sources u will be getting power from

***i got this from john@abella.net, thanks***

[/ QUOTE ]
I can handle the running of wires and doing all of this. But my goal is to not use scotchLock wire taps and Boraguy01 has got me started on the path of not using these connectors so
My question/s:
1) For the illumination where are people tapping in and what should I use?

2) The instructions listed above tell me where to get constant power from but seems a little vague on the fuse area. Do I need any dealer repair wires to activate this?

3) For the switched power wire It tells me where to go but not what wire I'll need.

I plan to take pics of the specific wire connections as they go in the fuse panal so people can in the future have a little more straight forward how to.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Frank /images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[OilBurnerDE]

Uh-oh....


Frank is here......... /images/graemlins/eek.gif

Sup' Frank?

For my the haraness in my Passat, it only has 3 connections/wires. Power, ground, illumination.

I thought about doing it the factoy way. But I'm not sure if I want to drop the fuse panel to do it.

Pep Boys sells a ciruit add-on for about $7. It plugs into a fuse slot. I might try this out.

Ground is easy, plug it into the available ground block.

Illumination:

I wired up the boost gauge light by tapping into the illumination lead on the radio harness (not being used) I just might tap off of that.

The car also came with a harness for heated washer nozzels.

I might just install that as well, but it will involve more work. But at least I can install my blue LED lighted washer nozzels at the same time yo..... /images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif....

With the 35 degree temps we had the last two mornings, I should get the seats working soon.
Heck I still need to install the interior that I ripped out chasing a water leak. /images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[G60ING]

yuppers I'm here. Hell I've been lurking for a good amount of time. But I'm thinking I can hold out for the proper pin connections to the fuse panel. But if it gets too cold I'll do it the quick and simple way. But you know I seldom choose the quick-N-simple route /images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[will360655]

1) For the illumination where are people tapping in and what should I use?
You can tape that from the dimmer switch, you just have to find the right wire, there are 3.

2) The instructions listed above tell me where to get constant power from but seems a little vague on the fuse area. Do I need any dealer repair wires to activate this?
You use the 75X power (I think) then you use a repair wire to locate is into the fuse panel, then out.

3) For the switched power wire It tells me where to go but not what wire I'll need.
You should use a fuse, I didn't locate my fuse in the fuse box, just an inline fuse...actualy i don't even think that I used a fuse. Should use a fuse though.

I will double check some part numbers, just to make sure, but I don't have my paper work handy.

Will

 

[tongsli]

Get a copy of the Bentley's manual. Everything you need to know is in the wiring diagrams.

 

[tongsli]

[ QUOTE ]
Does anybody know how i can check out the internal wiring of the seat??,

[/ QUOTE ]

Flappie,

I'd try another switch before I'd open up the seats. I bet it's the switch. Is it new? Do you have a spare?

 

[danix]

Do NOT just take power from the radio or something like that, as the current draw on the seats is significant.
You can tap the dimmer wire on the adjacent dash switches, and look at the Bentley for the correct way to draw power, using factory repair wires and the proper fuses.
The wiring is simple but tedious given the amount of work in disassembly.

 

[tongsli]

Wiring Diagrams 2003 Jetta Heated Leather Seats

 

[OilBurnerDE]

[ QUOTE ]
danix said:
Do NOT just take power from the radio or something like that, as the current draw on the seats is significant.
You can tap the dimmer wire on the adjacent dash switches,


[/ QUOTE ]

I guess this is directed to me. I agree do not use the radio harness for power to the heated seats.

I only tapped into my radio harness for the illumination of my boost gauge and for the dimmer lead on my new Head unit.
I will probably use the same lead for the heated seat switch illumination because it is convienient and the radio harness is not in use. I'd rather limit the amount of modifications to the stock wiring, if at all possible. Having one central source helps me stick to the KISS principle.

 

[oldpoopie]

Lito, are you able to give me an ammended list of repair wire parts to hook up my seat heaters? I believe the above list is short a few wires.
-J

 

[G60ING]

I should be hooking up the seats in the next week or two. With the help of the skematics I think I have it under control. While I'm doing the install I will keep track of the repair wires and even take pics. I plan to use all of factory wire connections.

 

[tongsli]

All of the dash switches will look similar to this one. The blade is typically the same width.

The repair wire is the 000979135 listed above

Here are some more, from left to right: 000797135, 000979133,000979131,000979008

This copper wire connector is used in the relay plates:

000979114


Wiring Diagrams 2003 Jetta Heated Leather Seats

 

[Boraguy01]

Hey guys, ive been wanting to sign up here but never got around to it. MAybe this might help the guy whos trying to install his heated seats. To power the icon lights at night i just tapped a wire from the heated seat switch over to the hazard light switch. Just take one of the wires and stick it into the right terminal in the back of tha hazard light switch, if you take the switch out it will be obvious which one to tap into. ANything else let me know or email me and ill try my best to explain

 

[oldpoopie]

Lito, I knew you'd have all that info. Thanks!

 

[oldpoopie]

In an effort to understand this better, I joined and colored the wiring diagram.

Email me if you want the full size version.

 

[oldpoopie]

Ok, I think the bently diagram is confusing. Too much info for what I need. I've put together this diagram to simplify things. Let me know if I've made any errors.

 

[oldpoopie]

Ok, turns out I had a little crisis getting the connector housing (1J0-937-731) at the seat. IMPEX said it was out of stock in north america, as did my local dealer. I ordered it anyway from my dealer on thursday. Then, friday evening, I contacted GSXR600 of mb pierburg fame, and asked him to source them from germany for me. He said no problem. Well,long story short, the dealer calls me sat and says the parts are in! /images/graemlins/eek.gif Turns out the old # was supplanted by 2 new parts.


They are: 1j0-937-713 (pink locking tab)
1j0-937-714 (blue locking tab)

The two parts slide and lock together forming the complete connector. You'll have to insert any repair wires before you lock the 2 connectors together. You'll need 2 of each. Here are some pics:

 

[tongsli]

Justin,

Thanks for the info!! This solves the problem!!!

L

 

[G60ING]

Well I've got toasty buns /images/graemlins/cool.gif I've been laying low do to the flu and whatnot. But I finally hooked everything up. I'll have pics in a week or two of the locations to tap into the fuse box when I go in an hook up the rear fog. It was simple, for the constant power I ran from stud #30 to the fuse box (fuse#44) and then to the switches. For the switched power I should have just vampted into the Black with blue wire coming out of fuse #5 but I ended up using a repair wire into the fuse and then but spliced and came off with the blk/bl wire and the wire leading to the switches. The grounds are run from the stud next to the steering colume. Then I ran the illumination from the cigerette ligher because the area behind the hazard switch was already tight enough with all of the new wiring.

I'll also take some pics of the wiring routing as it is well hidden, I used the oem plastic wiring loom holders for routing (thank goodness for mechanical fingers)

I spent a good amount of time doing this but I know I'll get satisfaction from this everytime I warm my keyster. /images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[OilBurnerDE]

I too was able to hook up my harness this weekend, and had a nice warm rump on the way in this morning.

Mine was so simple it was funny.

My first attempt resulted in me scratching my head and wondering where I was going to splice into for power.

Took a brief breather and then went back out to look at the wiring mess again.

At first I was looking for a separate wire with a male connection that would match the female connection on the harness. None could be found.

After my intermission, I looked at the back of the fuse panel again and toward the top there were add on terminals that clicked or locked into groves on top of the panel. There were two rows of these.
I pulled one off and looked at it. It had three wires plugged into it and two open terminals. It was a distribution block. I took out my Multimeter and sure enough I found a switch power source that I could plug my harness into.
And below that distribution block was another that was part of the illumination ciruit. Plugged everything up and viola
Heated seats! /images/graemlins/cool.gif

I wish eveything was this simple. /images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

 

[tongsli]

[ QUOTE ]
They are: 1j0-937-713 (pink locking tab)
1j0-937-714 (blue locking tab)



[/ QUOTE ]

Justin, do the part numbers you quoted mate only to the Green connector with the "key" tab???
I can't quite make it out from your pictures.

Lito

 

[oldpoopie]

Lito, the part #s are for each half of the connector. When assembled they replace the two loose green connectors seen in this pic:

you can see how they look the same when assembled.

 

[oldpoopie]

As for my car, the seats seem to require a different connector.
The male end of the connector that in actually part of the seat looks like this on mine:

As for ease of install, I decided to make most of the harness beforehand. I also wrapped the wires in "hockey tape" for an OEM look, protect the wires, and make installation easier. I also removed EVERYTHING that was in the way with the exception of the carpet. It was alot of work, but made things alot cleaner. Once I get the correct connectors at the seats, I'll be all set.

 

[oldpoopie]

here's a screen shot showing the part #s for that connector. Hopefully this will come in on wed.

 

[tongsli]

Hey! Justin. That looks familiar /images/graemlins/smile.gif My seats are installed because I USE the car in this condition /images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[tongsli]

You need to upgrade to power windows!!! /images/graemlins/smile.gif

Let me know if you're interested, I think I may have enough parts so that you can get it done!! I think Eric may have a few things laying around as well.

Is your Golf a 2 or 4 door. Can't remember now

Lito

 

[oldpoopie]

I considered leaving the car like that as a quality theft deterent. It reminds me of when I lived in providence. One of the local stolen car guys had a habit of dumping his stripped out cars infront of my apartment. I'll never forget the day I stepped out of my door to see a camry with no glass, no doors, no dash, hood front fenders, grille, or any interior. It had been driven there with a milk crate screwed to the floor. There were 4 donut spare tires on it. Very funny.

 

[oldpoopie]

My golf is a 2 door. I'd need to get some GTI black leather doorskins. But yes, I'm very interested. I've been thinking about it for quite some time.